The primary purpose of the epidermis of terrestrial vertebrates is to produce the stratum corneum, which serves as the interface between the organism and the environment. As such, the stratum corneum provides a permeability barrier which both limits water loss through the skin and provides a relatively tough permeability barrier. This provides for a degree of resistance to mechanical trauma and prevents or limits penetration of potentially harmful substances from the environment. The stratum corneum consists of an array of keratinized cells embedded in a lipid matrix. It is this intercellular lipid that determines the permeability of the stratum corneum. The main lipids here are ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. In addition, the skin surface of mammals, including humans, is coated by a lipid film produced by sebaceous glands in the dermis and secreted through the follicles. Human sebum consists mainly of squalene, wax monoesters, and triglycerides with small proportions of cholesterol and cholesterol esters. As sebum passes through the follicles, some of the triglycerides are hydrolyzed by bacteria to liberate free fatty acids. Likewise, near the skin surface, where water becomes available, some of the ceramides are acted upon by an epithelial ceramidase to liberate sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, and 6-hydroxysphingosine. Some of the free fatty acids, specifically lauric acid and sapienic acid, have been shown to have antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral activity. Also, the long-chain bases have broad spectrum antibacterial activity.
Novel phytoceramides containing fatty acids of diverse chain lengths are better than a single C18-ceramide N-stearoyl phytosphingosine to improve the physiological properties of human stratum corneum
