scholarly journals Event-Based Validation of Swell Arrival Time

2016 ◽  
Vol 46 (12) ◽  
pp. 3563-3569 ◽  
Author(s):  
Haoyu Jiang ◽  
Alexander V. Babanin ◽  
Ge Chen
Keyword(s):  
Arrival Time ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Early Arrival ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Numerical Wave ◽  
Event Based ◽  
Buoy Data ◽  
Good Agreement

AbstractThe arrival time of ocean swells is an important factor for offshore and coastal engineering and naval and recreational activities, which can also be used in evaluating the numerical wave model. Using the continuity and pattern of wave heights during the same swell event, a methodology is developed for identifying swell events and verifying swell arrival time in models from buoy data. The swell arrival time in a WAVEWATCH III hindcast database is validated with in situ measurements. The results indicate that the model has a good agreement with the observations but usually predicts an early arrival of swell, about 4 h on average. A histogram shows that about one-quarter of swell events arrive early and three-quarters late by comparison with the model. Many processes that may be responsible for the arrival time errors are discussed, but at this stage it is not possible to distinguish between them from the available data.

scholarly journals Analysis of extreme wave events in the southern coast of Brazil

2014 ◽  
Vol 2 (6) ◽  
pp. 4363-4391 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. V. Guimarães ◽  
L. Farina ◽  
E. Toldo
Keyword(s):  
Urban Areas ◽  
Rio Grande ◽  
Rio Grande Do Sul ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Point Of Interest ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
Buoy Data ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Good Agreement

Abstract. Using the model SWAN, high waves on the Southwestern Atlantic generated by extra-tropical cyclones are simulated from 2000 to 2010 and their impact on the Rio Grande do Sul coast is studied. The modeled waves are compared with buoy data and good agreement is found. The six extreme events in the period which presented significant wave heights above 5 m, on a particular point of interest, are investigated in detail. It is found that the cyclogenetic pattern between the latitudes 31.5 and 34° S, is the most favorable for developing high waves. Hovmöller diagrams for deep water show that the region between the south of Rio Grande do Sul up to latitude 31.5° S is the most energetic during a cyclone's passage, although the event of May 2008 indicate that the location of this region can vary, depending on the cyclone's displacement. On the oher hand, the Hovmöller diagrams for shallow water show that the different shoreface morphologies were responsable for focusing or dissipating the waves' energy; the regions found are in agreement with the observations of erosion and progradation regions. It can be concluded that some of the urban areas of the beaches of Hermenegildo, Cidreira, Pinhal, Tramandaí, Imbé and Torres have been more exposed during the extreme wave events at Rio Grande do Sul coast, and are more vulnerable to this natural hazard.

scholarly journals Assimilation of decomposed in-situ directional wave spectra into a numerical wave model on typhoon wave

2013 ◽  
Vol 1 (4) ◽  
pp. 3967-3989
Author(s):  
Y. M. Fan ◽  
H. Günther ◽  
C. C. Kao ◽  
B. C. Lee
Keyword(s):  
Data Assimilation ◽  
Forecast Accuracy ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Sequential Data ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Typhoon Wave ◽  
Independent Observations ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Numerical Wave

Abstract. The purpose of this study was to enhance the accuracy of numerical wave forecasts through data assimilation during typhoon period. A sequential data assimilation scheme was modified to enable its use with partitions of directional wave spectra. The performance of the system was investigated with respect to operational applications specifically for typhoon wave. Two typhoons that occurred in 2006 around Taiwan (Kaemi and Shanshan) were used for this case study. The proposed data assimilation method increased the forecast accuracy in terms of wave parameters, such as wave height and period. After assimilation, the shapes of directional spectra were much closer to those reported from independent observations.

Evaluation of an Extended Operational Boussinesq-Type Wave Model for Calculating Low-Frequency Waves in Intermediate Depths

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Martijn P. C. de Jong ◽  
Mart Borsboom ◽  
Jan A. M. de Bont ◽  
Bas van Vossen
Keyword(s):  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Extended Model ◽  
Depth Range ◽  
Frequency Range ◽  
Frequency Wave ◽  
Type Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

The motions of (LNG) vessels moored offshore at depths ranging from about 20 to 100 m may depend significantly on the presence of (bound) low-frequency waves with periods in the order of 100 s. This is because these moored vessels show a large motion response in this frequency range and because the energy contents of low-frequency waves at these ‘intermediate’ depths is relatively large. As part of the Joint Industry Project HawaI, the operational Boussinesq-type wave model of Deltares, TRITON, was used to investigate whether this type of wave models could predict bound low-frequency waves (setdown waves) at intermediate depths. Comparison to measured and theoretical data, however, showed an underestimation of the computed levels of bound low-frequency wave heights for this depth range by a factor 2 to 4. Recently, additional tests were made with TRITON in situations for which the model has been designed: coastal engineering applications in shallow water (depths up to at most 20 m). These also showed an underestimation of the bound low-frequency wave heights, albeit smaller, up to a factor 2. In view of the importance of the energy contained in the low-frequency range for certain nearshore and shoreline processes, such as morphological processes, this underestimation is also of concern in coastal engineering. This triggered the development of a higher-order extension of the TRITON model equations (Borsboom, 2008, Wellens, 2010), with the aim to improve the accuracy of the model for long waves while still keeping computational times within acceptable (operational) limits. This paper reports on the usefulness of the extended model for the field of application considered in JIP HawaI/II: providing wave data for calculating the motions of vessels moored in intermediate depths. The results show a significant improvement of the modeling of nonlinear wave dynamics, including the prediction of bound low-frequency waves. This means that the model extension is an important step towards an operational Boussinesq-type wave model with sufficient accuracy in both the wave-frequency (sea, swell) and the low-frequency range for applications in intermediate depths.

scholarly journals An Experimental Assessment of Extreme Wave Evaluation by Integrating Model and Wave Buoy Data

Water ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (4) ◽  
pp. 1201
Author(s):  
Ferdinando Reale ◽  
Fabio Dentale ◽  
Pierluigi Furcolo ◽  
Angela Di Leo ◽  
Eugenio Pugliese Carratelli
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Return Time ◽  
Design Tool ◽  
Data Series ◽  
Model Data ◽  
Ocean Engineering ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Correct Estimation ◽  
Buoy Data

Calculating the significant wave height (SWH) in a given location as a function of the return time is an essential tool of coastal and ocean engineering; such a calculation can be carried out by making use of the now widely available weather and wave model chains, which often lead to underestimating the results, or by means of in situ experimental data (mostly, wave buoys), which are only available in a limited number of sites. A procedure is hereby tested whereby the curves of extreme SWH as a function of the return time deriving from model data are integrated with the similar curves computed from buoy data. A considerable improvement in accuracy is gained by making use of this integrated procedure in all locations where buoy data series are not available or are not long enough for a correct estimation. A useful and general design tool has therefore been provided to derive the extreme value SWH for any point in a given area.

Error Estimation of Buoy, Satellite, and Model Wave Height Data

2007 ◽  
Vol 24 (9) ◽  
pp. 1665-1677 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter A. E. M. Janssen ◽  
Saleh Abdalla ◽  
Hans Hersbach ◽  
Jean-Raymond Bidlot
Keyword(s):  
Collocation Method ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Weather Forecasts ◽  
Model Wave ◽  
Analysis Scheme ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Forecasting System ◽  
Buoy Data ◽  
Height Data

Abstract Triple collocation is a powerful method to estimate the rms error in each of three collocated datasets, provided the errors are not correlated. Wave height analyses from the operational European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) wave forecasting system over a 4-yr period are compared with independent buoy data and dependent European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeter wave height data, which have been used in the wave analysis. To apply the triple-collocation method, a fourth, independent dataset is obtained from a wave model hindcast without assimilation of altimeter wave observations. The seasonal dependence of the respective errors is discussed and, while in agreement with the properties of the analysis scheme, the wave height analysis is found to have the smallest error. In this comparison the altimeter wave height data have been obtained from an average over N individual observations. By comparing model wave height with the altimeter superobservations for different values of N, alternative estimates of altimeter and model error are obtained. There is only agreement with the estimates from the triple collocation when the correlation between individual altimeter observations is taken into account. The collocation method is also applied to estimate the error in Environmental Satellite (ENVISAT), ERS-2 altimeter, buoy, model first-guess, and analyzed wave heights. It is shown that there is a high correlation between ENVISAT and ERS-2 wave height error, while the quality of ENVISAT altimeter wave height is high.

scholarly journals Analysis of extreme wave events on the southern coast of Brazil

2014 ◽  
Vol 14 (12) ◽  
pp. 3195-3205 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. V. Guimarães ◽  
L. Farina ◽  
E. E. Toldo Jr.
Keyword(s):  
Urban Areas ◽  
Rio Grande ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Rio Grande Do Sul ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Point Of Interest ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights ◽  
Buoy Data ◽  
The Waves

Abstract. Using the wave model SWAN (simulating waves nearshore), high waves on the southwestern Atlantic generated by extra-tropical cyclones are simulated from 2000 to 2010, and their impact on the Rio Grande do Sul (RS) coast is studied. The modeled waves are compared with buoy data and good agreement is found. The six extreme events in the period that presented significant wave heights above 5 m, on a particular point of interest, are investigated in detail. It is found that the cyclogenetic pattern between the latitudes 31.5 and 34° S is the most favorable for developing high waves. Hovmöller diagrams for deep water show that the region between the south of Rio Grande do Sul up to a latitude of 31.5° S is the most energetic during a cyclone's passage, although the event of May 2008 indicates that the location of this region can vary, depending on the cyclone's displacement. On the other hand, the Hovmöller diagrams for shallow water show that the different shoreface morphologies were responsible for focusing or dissipating the waves' energy; the regions found are in agreement with the observations of erosion and progradation regions. It can be concluded that some of the urban areas of the beaches of Hermenegildo, Cidreira, Pinhal, Tramandaí, Imbé and Torres have been more exposed during the extreme wave events on the Rio Grande do Sul coast, and are more vulnerable to this natural hazard.

scholarly journals Assimilation of decomposed in situ directional wave spectra into a numerical wave model of typhoon waves

2014 ◽  
Vol 14 (1) ◽  
pp. 73-80
Author(s):  
Y. M. Fan ◽  
H. Günther ◽  
C. C. Kao ◽  
B. C. Lee
Keyword(s):  
Data Assimilation ◽  
Forecast Accuracy ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Sequential Data ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Independent Observations ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Numerical Wave ◽  
Typhoon Waves

Abstract. The purpose of this study was to enhance the accuracy of numerical wave forecasts through data assimilation during typhoon periods. A sequential data assimilation scheme was modified to enable its use with partitions of directional wave spectra. The performance of the system was investigated with respect to operational applications, specifically for typhoon waves. Two typhoons that occurred in 2006 around Taiwan (Kaemi and Shanshan) were used for this case study. The proposed data assimilation method increased the forecast accuracy in terms of wave parameters, such as wave height and period. After assimilation, the shapes of directional spectra were much closer to those reported from independent observations.

scholarly journals Performansi Implementasi Numerik Metode Pseudo Spectral pada Model Gelombang 1D Boussinesq

2017 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 101 ◽  
Author(s):  
Didit Adytia
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Scheme ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Numerical Wave Tank ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Cpu Time ◽  
Numerical Wave ◽  
Pseudo Spectral ◽  
Accurate Wave ◽  
Good Agreement

<p>In the design of a numerical wave tank, it is necessary to use an accurate wave model as well as to choose an accurate and efficient numerical scheme for implementing the model. In this paper, we use a Pseudo-Spectral (PS) implementationfor a wave model so called Variational Boussinesq Model. The implementation is aimed to obtain a higher time efficiency in the calculation of wave simulations. The performance  of the PS implementation  is compared in CPU-time with a Finite Element (FE) implementation of the wave model for simulating a focusing wave group. Results of both implementations give a good agreement with wave data from laboratory experiment. The PS-implementation gives more efficient CPU-time compared to the FE-implementation.</p>

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