scholarly journals Screenic fashion: horizontality, minimal materiality and manual operation

2020 ◽  
Vol 19 (3) ◽  
pp. 378-390
Author(s):  
Marie-Aude Baronian

Focusing on a one-minute ‘fashion film’ by the Dutch fashion designer Alexander van Slobbe for the retrospective exhibition on his work in Utrecht’s Centraal Museum in 2010, this article investigates the interconnectedness of film and fashion through their mutual concern with the processes of crafting and dressing. A close reading of Van Slobbe’s film highlights a current return to a minimal design aesthetic in both fashion and film that shows fashion as a process or as a ‘manual’ operation. This film goes beyond the portrait of a fashion designer, becoming a meditation on the material practice of designing, crafting and viewing. That practice involves an intimacy with materiality constituting the fashion garment as a material, crafted and dynamic sartorial object that requires an axial positionality stemming from horizontal closeness. Ultimately, this article presents horizontality as being part of the experience of both moving images and fashion as a material object. The aim is thus to reflect on what is termed ubiquitous ‘screenic fashion’ (as a peculiar affinity between fashion and screen) by considering an alignment of horizontality and materiality as related to a current and vivid concern in the field of fashion and clothes-making.

2012 ◽  
Vol 23 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-132
Author(s):  
Jan Baetens

In this article, the author analyzes Chris Marker’s photography, in particular the project Staring Back (an exhibition and a book, published in 2007), which offers a synthesis in fixed images of the film career of this author who has always explored the blurred boundaries between the still and the moving image (for example in his 1962 cult movie La jetée, or in later photo-films such as Si j’avais quatre dromadaires, 1966, and Le souvenir d’un avenir, with Yannick Bellon, 2001). The author relies on Marker’s notion of the “superluminal” (which refers to a special way of selecting still images out of the flow of moving images) as well as on contemporary and historical discussions on intermediality (inside and outside the domain of film studies alone) and cinephilia (as a specific way of combining writing and filming), to propose a close reading of Staring Back. In this reading, the author places strong emphasis on the political issues around looking and the relationship between artist and model.


Author(s):  
Marek Hendrykowski

This close-reading analysis and interpretation examines the original form of Woody Allen’s masterpiece Zelig (1983). The author combines a film studies approach with an investigation of epistemological and semiotic reflections on moving images. The author emphasises that more than three decades ago Allen gave to a wide audience a critical, sceptical and ironic vision of the “documentary” (esp. regarding the “truth”) status of moving pictures. This study also introduces also important terminological distinction between “mockumentary” (“fake-documentary”) and a contrasting category, that is, “documentary fiction” (also called “docufiction”), giving an instructive and precise definition of both.


2020 ◽  
Vol 22 (3) ◽  
pp. 313-329
Author(s):  
Aris Mousoutzanis

This article discusses the BBC drama Taboo (2017–present) as a contemporary example of imperial Gothic and places the series in the context of a current trend of ‘imperial nostalgia’ in British culture. It provides a close reading of the series with regard to its use of gothic traits like the exploration of morbid psychology, the function of the ghost as a metaphor for past trauma, the use of locale for gothic effect, and the evocation of body horror. By reading this contemporary narrative against this generic tradition, the paper highlights the ability of the Gothic to reflect on historical transformations and contemporary manifestations of discourses of Empire. The series, the discussion argues, seeks to critique Empire by portraying it as the agent of monstrosity and horror but eventually reproduces stereotypes of colonial otherness that were fundamental to imperialist ideologies. In this sense, Taboo is a text just as ambivalent as earlier imperial Gothic texts.


Hypatia ◽  
2006 ◽  
Vol 21 (1) ◽  
pp. 119-136 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lisa Guenther

Emmanuel Levinas compares ethical responsibility to a maternal body who bears the Other in the same without assimilation. In explicating this trope, he refers to a biblical passage in which Moses is like a “wet nurse” bearing Others whom he has “neither conceived nor given birth to” (Num. 11:12). A close reading of this passage raises questions about ethics, maternity, and sexual difference, for both the concept of ethical substitution and the material practice of mothering.


Author(s):  
R.A. Ploc

The optic axis of an electron microscope objective lens is usually assumed to be straight and co-linear with the mechanical center. No reason exists to assume such perfection and, indeed, simple reasoning suggests that it is a complicated curve. A current centered objective lens with a non-linear optic axis when used in conjunction with other lenses, leads to serious image errors if the nature of the specimen is such as to produce intense inelastic scattering.


Author(s):  
L. E. Murr ◽  
G. Wong

Palladium single-crystal films have been prepared by Matthews in ultra-high vacuum by evaporation onto (001) NaCl substrates cleaved in-situ, and maintained at ∼ 350° C. Murr has also produced large-grained and single-crystal Pd films by high-rate evaporation onto (001) NaCl air-cleaved substrates at 350°C. In the present work, very large (∼ 3cm2), continuous single-crystal films of Pd have been prepared by flash evaporation onto air-cleaved (001) NaCl substrates at temperatures at or below 250°C. Evaporation rates estimated to be ≧ 2000 Å/sec, were obtained by effectively short-circuiting 1 mil tungsten evaporation boats in a self-regulating system which maintained an optimum load current of approximately 90 amperes; corresponding to a current density through the boat of ∼ 4 × 104 amperes/cm2.


Author(s):  
Takao Suzuki ◽  
Hossein Nuri

For future high density magneto-optical recording materials, a Bi-substituted garnet film ((BiDy)3(FeGa)5O12) is an attractive candidate since it has strong magneto-optic effect at short wavelengths less than 600 nm. The signal in read back performance at 500 nm using a garnet film can be an order of magnitude higher than a current rare earth-transition metal amorphous film. However, the granularity and surface roughness of such crystalline garnet films are the key to control for minimizing media noise.We have demonstrated a new technique to fabricate a garnet film which has much smaller grain size and smoother surfaces than those annealed in a conventional oven. This method employs a high ramp-up rate annealing (Γ = 50 ~ 100 C/s) in nitrogen atmosphere. Fig.1 shows a typical microstruture of a Bi-susbtituted garnet film deposited by r.f. sputtering and then subsequently crystallized by a rapid thermal annealing technique at Γ = 50 C/s at 650 °C for 2 min. The structure is a single phase of garnet, and a grain size is about 300A.


Author(s):  
I-Fei Tsu ◽  
D.L. Kaiser ◽  
S.E. Babcock

A current theme in the study of the critical current density behavior of YBa2Cu3O7-δ (YBCO) grain boundaries is that their electromagnetic properties are heterogeneous on various length scales ranging from 10s of microns to ˜ 1 Å. Recently, combined electromagnetic and TEM studies on four flux-grown bicrystals have demonstrated a direct correlation between the length scale of the boundaries’ saw-tooth facet configurations and the apparent length scale of the electrical heterogeneity. In that work, enhanced critical current densities are observed at applied fields where the facet period is commensurate with the spacing of the Abrikosov flux vortices which must be pinned if higher critical current density values are recorded. To understand the microstructural origin of the flux pinning, the grain boundary topography and grain boundary dislocation (GBD) network structure of [001] tilt YBCO bicrystals were studied by TEM and HRTEM.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document