scholarly journals Costume as a Form of Visualization of Ethnicity: From Tradition to Modernity

Author(s):  
Daria Yurievna Ermilova ◽  

The article traces the transformation of visualization of a person’s ethnicity through costumes – from traditional to modern. The object of the study is to understand the costume as an informational and sign structure. The topic of the study is the visualization of ethnicity through costumes from a historical perspective. The study aims to identify the specific characteristics of visualization of ethnicity in traditional and modern costumes. The study hypothesis is that, unlike traditional costumes that demonstrated regional and national affiliation, modern “Western” clothing has mostly lost these functions. Although in some regions costumes are still relevant as a “living” tradition, national clothing is disappearing from everyday life. Ethnic style using regional and national traditions as a source of stylization does not present an indicator of a person’s nationality. Nevertheless, some examples of modern clothing visualizing ethnicity can be found. The functional and semiotic approaches to the analysis of costumes serve as the basis of the study. Since the late Middle Ages, the development of urban dress in Western Europe has been determined by fashion rather than tradition. In Russia, the process of an urban costume losing the function of visualization of ethnicity began with the reforms of Peter the Great and for peasants’ costumes, this process did not start until the middle of the 20th century. At the beginning of the 21st century, traditional costumes were mostly worn by ethnic minorities as a symbol of national identity and self-affirmation. Referring to others’ traditions as a source of fashion innovations led to the emergence of ethnic style. Ethnic style is characterized by a superficial attitude towards the source. Ethnodesign, on the other hand, follows the principle of deep and thoughtful care about the tradition which gains relevance due to the rise of glocalization manifesting in the intensification of regional differences. Although the proponents of ethnodesign insist on the ability of design to integrate traditional ethnic symbols into modern culture, the question is about the ability of modern people to understand the meanings contained in traditional forms remains. The present article identifies the cases of a costume serving the function of visualization of ethnicity in modern society.

Author(s):  
Joachim Eibach

A consistent overrepresentation of men in recorded violent crimes and thus a certain disposition of male aggressiveness has been evident from the late Middle Ages to today. However, we can also detect several major shifts in the history of interpersonal male violence from the eighteenth century onward. From a cultural historical perspective, violent actions by men or women cannot be interpreted as contingent, individual acts, but rather must be seen as practices embedded in sociocultural contexts and accompanied by informal norms. Because one grand theory cannot account convincingly for the history of violence and masculinity, an array of approaches is more likely to shed light on the issue. Interestingly, shifts in the history of violence have often corresponded with changes to prevailing notions of masculinity. This essay delineates the relevant historical shifts from the early modern “culture of dispute” to the different paths of interpersonal violence over the twentieth century.


Author(s):  
Emily Corran

Thought about lying and perjury became increasingly practical from the end of the twelfth century in Western Europe. At this time, a distinctive way of thinking about deception and false oaths appeared, which dealt with moral dilemmas and the application of moral rules in exceptional cases. It first emerged in the schools of Paris and Bologna, most notably in the Summa de Sacramentis et Animae Consiliis of Peter the Chanter. The tradition continued in pastoral writings of the thirteenth century, the practical moral questions addressed by theologians in universities in the second half of the thirteenth century, and in the Summae de Casibus Conscientiae of the late Middle Ages. This book argues that medieval practical ethics of this sort can usefully be described as casuistry—a term for the discipline of moral theology that became famous during the Counter-Reformation. This can be seen in the medieval origins of the concept of equivocation, an idea that was explored in medieval literature with varying degrees of moral ambiguity. From the turn of the thirteenth century, the concept was adopted by canon lawyers and theologians, as a means of exploring questions about exceptional situations in ethics. It has been assumed in the past that equivocation and the casuistry of lying was an academic discourse invented in the sixteenth century in order to evade moral obligations. This study reveals that casuistry in the Middle Ages was developed in ecclesiastical thought as part of an effort to explain how to follow moral rules in ambiguous and perplexing cases.


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-14
Author(s):  
Ulrich A. Wien

Abstract This thematic issue of the Journal of Early Modern Christianity focuses on the reception of the Reformation in Transylvania and especially on the development of Protestant churches oriented towards Luther and influenced by Melanchthon. In the late Middle Ages, Transylvania had become part of the cultural influence zone of Central Europe, but throughout the sixteenth century the region became permeated by religious developments in Western Europe too. Here, a very peculiar constellation of religious pluralism and co-existence emerged, and the different contributions examine the premises and networks behind these dynamics. In this joint effort, it becomes clear how Transylvania turned into a pioneer region of religious freedom, as it witnessed simultaneously the development of Catholic, Orthodox and various Protestant confessional cultures.


2010 ◽  
Vol 4 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Tonči Burić

Late medieval graves in the Kaštela region have been found to contain, in addition to jewelry, decorative-functional elements of clothing and footwear, termed Gothic according to the stylistic period then in fashion. These are finds from graves that were then on the territory of the commune districts of Split and Trogir. Finds are taken into consideration here that belong to remains of footwear, which so far in Croatia have not even been recognized as such, and which can be stratigraphically and typologically placed in the late Middle Ages (14th-15th cent.). These are objects of a utilitarian character that at the same time have clear stylistic traits, and they have been discovered in the past two decades during systematic excavation of medieval cemeteries in Kaštela. These are large parish cemeteries that grew up around early medieval churches; the cemetery around the church of St. George of Putalj and the cemetery around the church of St. George of Radun. The Putalj cemetery was the graveyard for the inhabitants of medieval Sućurac for more than four centuries (12th-16th cent.), and the Radun cemetery belonged to part of the village of Radun and had an even longer continuity of burial (11th-16th cent.). The first examples were found at these sites, some of them in situ, which enabled a more precise functional determination of them through stylistic-typological parallels and also among dislocated finds in graves with multiple burials, as well as parallels at cemeteries in neighboring regions in central Dalmatia. Finds to the present of shoe buckles can be classified to two typological variants (Pl. I:1-3), one of them called the Radun type according to the eponymous site (Pl. I:1, 3). They are all chronologically coherent and belong to those strata of the cemeteries that are dated according to determined parameters (stratigraphy, typology of the finds) to the 14th and beginning of the 15th centuries, when the Gothic style in art was already completely developed. They can thus be attributed as artistic craft products of the artisan workshops in Split and Trogir at that time, which were distributed throughout the area of the urban districts of those communes. Finds of functionally identical objects have been recorded on the territory of Roman Salona and its broader vicinity, but in the period of late antiquity, while in the early modern period (16th-18th cent.) finds of iron hobnails for shoes or boots have been registered at a large number of sites in the hinterland of central Dalmatia. In addition to the rare and generalized tiny depictions of shoe buckles in the artistic sources of the Gothic and Renaissance (paintings, frescoes, sculptures) in Western Europe, references to them can also be found in written sources. One notarial document from the 16th century in Zadar mentions shoe buckles under the term fiube da scarpe. The investigation of this segment of material culture is just beginning, and new data can be expected to be discovered in documents and works of art, and above all in new archaeological finds of buckles for footwear, which will considerably improve our knowledge of this interesting attire detail from the Gothic and Renaissance periods.


Cliocanarias ◽  
2021 ◽  
pp. 1-23
Author(s):  
Osvaldo Víctor Pereyra ◽  

Before Europeans were «shocked» by the sheer extent of American space opened up by discovery and conquest, the New World was thought —assembled and deconstructed— within the constricting frames of medieval thought. The first functional image that made it possible to «mentally compose» these new spaces was insularity. This image was perfectly suited to the traditional matrix of legal doctrine upheld by the roman papacy that will result in the so-called Alexandrian Bulls of Partition of 1493. The potestas omninsular —developed throughout the Late Middle Ages in Western Europe— constitutes the legal basis that gives meaning to this donation.


2017 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 75-107
Author(s):  
Jürg Gassmann

Abstract By the Late Middle Ages, mounted troops - cavalry in the form of knights - are established as the dominant battlefield arm in North-Western Europe. This paper considers the development of cavalry after the Germanic Barbarian Successor Kingdoms such as the Visigoths in Spain or the Carolingian Franks emerged from Roman Late Antiquity and their encounters with Islam, as with the Moors in Iberia or the Saracens (Arabs and Turks) during the Crusades, since an important part of literature ascribes advances in European horse breeding and horsemanship to Arab influence. Special attention is paid to information about horse types or breeds, conformation, tactics - fighting with lance and bow - and training. Genetic studies and the archaeological record are incorporated to test the literary tradition.


2021 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 80-88
Author(s):  
V. S. Sapozhnikova ◽  

One of the problems of modern culture and, in particular, fashion theory is the question of the time when fashion appeared in the socio-cultural space. To date, there is no single answer to this question, which is the key to the approach to the definition of "fashion". According to some scholars, fashion, being associated primarily with clothing, accompanies the development of mankind along the entire path of its existence, and fashion in the modern sense of the word can be spoken about since the era of Ancient Greece and Rome. According to other researchers, including the author of this article, fashion as a socio-cultural phenomenon was formed quite late - only in the initial period of the development of capitalism, and therefore the development of large cities, which corresponds to the era of the late Middle Ages. The substantiation of this point of view is the purpose of the article. The author identifies the factors contributing to the emergence and development of fashion, and attempts to prove that fashion as a phenomenon of mass culture could not arise in earlier periods of historical development.


Mediaevistik ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 32 (1) ◽  
pp. 304-306
Author(s):  
Albrecht Classen

Die zwei für den Titel gewählten Begriffe spiegeln wieder, worum es in der jüngsten mediävistischen Forschung global geht, so mühsam die Arbeit daran auch sein mag. Kein literarischer Text, kein Kunstwerk etc. ist einfach in einem Vakuum entstanden, und wir sind aus der heutigen Einsicht heraus, dass wir ja alle mehr oder weniger in einem transkulturellen Gewebe leben, dazu aufgefordert, die Mediävistik genau in diese Richtung zu treiben, um die globale Ausrichtung bereits im Mittelalter adäquat wahrzunehmen (vgl. dazu jetzt Romedio Schmitz-Esser, “The Buddha and the Medieval West,”. Travel, Time, and Space, hrsg. A. Classen, 2018). Das vorliegende Buch ist im De Gruyter Verlag erschienen, wo auch das Journal of Transcultural Medieval Studies veröffentlicht wird; es gibt also viele Überlappungen. Hinweisen muss ich auch auf East Meets West in the Middle Ages and Early Modern Times: Transcultural Experiences in the Premodern World, ed. Albrecht Classen, 2013; siehe dazu A. Classen, “Transcultural Experiences in the Late Middle Ages: The German Literary Discourse on the Mediterranean World – Mirrors, Reflections, and Responses,”Humanities Open Access 2015, 4(4), 676–701; doi:10.3390/h4040676. Keine dieser Veröffentlichungen wurden im vorliegenden Band auch nur registriert, und es scheint fast, als ob im Zeitalter der Internationalisierung weiterhin tiefe Gräben zwischen der deutschen und der außerdeutschen Mediävistik bestehen. Überblickt man die in den jeweiligen Bibliographien aufgelistete Literatur, macht sich diese gegenseitige Unkenntnis ganz penetrant bemerkbar, und dies, obwohl doch gerade der Verlag De Gruyter intensiv darum bemüht ist, im Kampf gegen dieses Desiderat in die Bresche zu springen (siehe dazu die ganze Reihe ‘Fundamentals of Medieval and Early Modern Culture’).


2008 ◽  
Vol 23 (1) ◽  
pp. 13-53 ◽  
Author(s):  
B. J. P. VAN BAVEL

ABSTRACTIn the course of the late Middle Ages and early modern period, in Western Europe, ways of transferring and redistributing land outside the market were replaced by market transactions. This, however, was by no means a general and unilinear process, but one that displays strong regional differences and temporal discontinuities. This article aims to gain more insight in the factors underlying these differences, by reconstructing and analysing the institutional organization of exchange in land and lease markets. The analysis, undertaken for northwestern Europe and Italy, points to the socio-political context as a main determinant of this organization.


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