From water waves to gravity waves

On Gravity ◽  
2018 ◽  
pp. 31-34
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves

scholarly journals New exact relations for steady irrotational two-dimensional gravity and capillary surface waves

2017 ◽  
Vol 376 (2111) ◽  
pp. 20170220 ◽  
Author(s):  
Didier Clamond
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Physical Plane ◽  
Theme Issue ◽  
Nonlinear Water Waves ◽  
Dimensional Gravity ◽  
Irrotational Motion ◽  
Exact Relations

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.

Steep gravity waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth

1977 ◽  
Vol 286 (1335) ◽  
pp. 183-230 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Perturbation Parameter ◽  
Intermediate Energy ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Wave Profile ◽  
Accurate Calculation ◽  
Theoretical Developments ◽  
Deep Water Waves

Modern applications of water-wave studies, as well as some recent theoretical developments, have shown the need for a systematic and accurate calculation of the characteristics of steady, progressive gravity waves of finite amplitude in water of arbitrary uniform depth. In this paper the speed, momentum, energy and other integral properties are calculated accurately by means of series expansions in terms of a perturbation parameter whose range is known precisely and encompasses waves from the lowest to the highest possible. The series are extended to high order and summed with Padé approximants. For any given wavelength and depth it is found that the highest wave is not the fastest. Moreover the energy, momentum and their fluxes are found to be greatest for waves lower than the highest. This confirms and extends the results found previously for solitary and deep-water waves. By calculating the profile of deep-water waves we show that the profile of the almost-steepest wave, which has a sharp curvature at the crest, intersects that of a slightly less-steep wave near the crest and hence is lower over most of the wavelength. An integration along the wave profile cross-checks the Padé-approximant results and confirms the intermediate energy maximum. Values of the speed, energy and other integral properties are tabulated in the appendix for the complete range of wave steepnesses and for various ratios of depth to wavelength, from deep to very shallow water.

Uniformly travelling water waves from a dynamical systems viewpoint: some insights into bifurcations from Stokes’ family

1992 ◽  
Vol 241 ◽  
pp. 333-347 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. Baesens ◽  
R. S. Mackay
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Travelling Waves ◽  
Hamiltonian Formulation ◽  
Inviscid Fluid ◽  
Centre Manifold ◽  
Numerical Work ◽  
Bifurcation Tree ◽  
Area Preserving

Numerical work of many people on the bifurcations of uniformly travelling water waves (two-dimensional irrotational gravity waves on inviscid fluid of infinite depth) suggests that uniformly travelling water waves have a reversible Hamiltonian formulation, where the role of time is played by horizontal position in the wave frame. In this paper such a formulation is presented. Based on this viewpoint, some insights are given into bifurcations from Stokes’ family of periodic waves. It is demonstrated numerically that there is a ‘fold point’ at amplitude A0 ≈ 0.40222. Assuming non-degeneracy of the fold and existence of an associated centre manifold, this explains why a sequence of p/q-bifurcations occurs on one side of A0, with 0 < p/q [les ] ½, in the order of the rationals. Secondly, it explains why no symmetry-breaking bifurcation is observed at A0, contrary to the expectations of some. Thirdly, it explains why the bifurcation tree for periodic uniformly travelling waves looks so much like that for the area-preserving Hénon map. Fourthly, it leads to predictions of a rich variety of spatially quasi-periodic, heteroclinic and chaotic waves.

Theory of water waves derived from a Lagrangian. Part 1. Standing waves

2000 ◽  
Vol 423 ◽  
pp. 275-291 ◽  
Author(s):  
MICHAEL S. LONGUET-HIGGINS
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Fourier Coefficients ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Standing Waves ◽  
System Of Equations ◽  
Practical Applications ◽  
Low Degree ◽  
Sharp Corners ◽  
New System

A new system of equations for calculating time-dependent motions of deep-water gravity waves (Balk 1996) is here developed analytically and set in a form suitable for practical applications. The method is fully nonlinear, and has the advantage of essential simplicity. Both the potential and the kinetic energy involve polynomial expressions of low degree in the Fourier coefficients Yn(t). This leads to equations of motion of correspondingly low degree. Moreover the constants in the equations are very simple. In this paper the equations of motion are specialized to standing waves, where the coefficients Yn are all real. Truncation of the series at low values of [mid ]n[mid ], say n < N, leads to ‘partial waves’ with solutions apparently periodic in the time t. For physical applications N must however be large. The method will be applied to the breaking of standing waves by the forming of sharp corners at the crests, and the generation of vertical jets rising from the wave troughs.

Surface Gravity Waves

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
John A. Adam
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Wave Pattern ◽  
The Body ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Ship Waves ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Basic Fluid

This chapter deals with the underlying mathematics of surface gravity waves, defined as gravity waves observed on an air–sea interface of the ocean. Surface gravity waves, or surface waves, differ from internal waves, gravity waves that occur within the body of the water (such as between parts of different densities). Examples of gravity waves are wind-generated waves on the water surface, as well tsunamis and ocean tides. Wind-generated gravity waves on the free surface of the Earth's seas, oceans, ponds, and lakes have a period of between 0.3 and 30 seconds. The chapter first describes the basic fluid equations before discussing the dispersion relations, with a particular focus on deep water waves, shallow water waves, and wavepackets. It also considers ship waves and how dispersion affects the wave pattern produced by a moving object, along with long and short waves.

scholarly journals Quantum Mechanical and Optical Analogies in Surface Gravity Water Waves

Fluids ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 4 (2) ◽  
pp. 96 ◽  
Author(s):  
Georgi Gary Rozenman ◽  
Shenhe Fu ◽  
Ady Arie ◽  
Lev Shemer
Keyword(s):  
Quantum Mechanics ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Theoretical Models ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Finite Width ◽  
Self Healing ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves

We present the theoretical models and review the most recent results of a class of experiments in the field of surface gravity waves. These experiments serve as demonstration of an analogy to a broad variety of phenomena in optics and quantum mechanics. In particular, experiments involving Airy water-wave packets were carried out. The Airy wave packets have attracted tremendous attention in optics and quantum mechanics owing to their unique properties, spanning from an ability to propagate along parabolic trajectories without spreading, and to accumulating a phase that scales with the cubic power of time. Non-dispersive Cosine-Gauss wave packets and self-similar Hermite-Gauss wave packets, also well known in the field of optics and quantum mechanics, were recently studied using surface gravity waves as well. These wave packets demonstrated self-healing properties in water wave pulses as well, preserving their width despite being dispersive. Finally, this new approach also allows to observe diffractive focusing from a temporal slit with finite width.

On the subharmonic instabilities of steady three-dimensional deep water waves

1994 ◽  
Vol 262 ◽  
pp. 265-291 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mansour Ioualalen ◽  
Christian Kharif
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Transverse Direction ◽  
Plane Waves ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Numerical Procedure ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Oblique Angle

A numerical procedure has been developed to study the linear stability of nonlinear three-dimensional progressive gravity waves on deep water. The three-dimensional patterns considered herein are short-crested waves which may be produced by two progressive plane waves propagating at an oblique angle, γ, to each other. It is shown that for moderate wave steepness the dominant resonances are sideband-type instabilities in the direction of propagation and, depending on the value of γ, also in the transverse direction. It is also shown that three-dimensional progressive gravity waves are less unstable than two-dimensional progressive gravity waves.

scholarly journals Scattering of gravity waves by a periodically structured ridge of finite extent

2019 ◽  
Vol 871 ◽  
pp. 350-376 ◽  
Author(s):  
Agnès Maurel ◽  
Kim Pham ◽  
Jean-Jacques Marigo
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Time Domain ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Classical Result ◽  
Water Channel ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Dimensional Problem ◽  
Homogenized Model ◽  
The Time Domain ◽  
Finite Extent

We study the propagation of water waves over a ridge structured at the subwavelength scale using homogenization techniques able to account for its finite extent. The calculations are conducted in the time domain considering the full three-dimensional problem to capture the effects of the evanescent field in the water channel over the structured ridge and at its boundaries. This provides an effective two-dimensional wave equation which is a classical result but also non-intuitive transmission conditions between the region of the ridge and the surrounding regions of constant immersion depth. Numerical results provide evidence that the scattering properties of a structured ridge can be strongly influenced by the evanescent fields, a fact which is accurately captured by the homogenized model.

A note on the divergence effect and the Lagrangian-mean surface elevation in periodic water waves

1988 ◽  
Vol 189 ◽  
pp. 235-242 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. E. Mcintyre
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Velocity Field ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Amplitude ◽  
Exact Expression ◽  
Mean Velocity ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Generalized Lagrangian ◽  
Divergence Effect

Longuet-Higgins’ exact expression for the increase in the Lagrangian-mean elevation of the free surface due to the presence of periodic, irrotational surface gravity waves is rederived from generalized Lagrangian-mean theory. The raising of the Lagrangian-mean surface as wave amplitude builds up illustrates the non-zero divergence of the Lagrangian-mean velocity field in an incompressible fluid.

scholarly journals Convergence of eigenfunction expansions for flexural gravity waves in infinite water depth

2021 ◽  
Vol 2070 (1) ◽  
pp. 012006
Author(s):  
Santanu Koley ◽  
Kottala Panduranga
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Eigenfunction Expansion ◽  
Velocity Potential ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Delta Function ◽  
Dirac Delta Function ◽  
Dirac Delta ◽  
Flexural Gravity Waves

Abstract In the present paper, point-wise convergence of the eigenfunction expansion to the velocity potential associated with the flexural gravity waves problem in water wave theory is established for infinite water depth case. To take into account the hydroelastic boundary condition at the free surface, a flexible membrane is assumed to float in water waves. In this context, firstly the eigenfunction expansion for the velocity potentials is obtained. Thereafter, an appropriate Green’s function is constructed for the associated boundary value problem. Using suitable properties of the Green’s functions, the vertical components of the eigenfunction expansion is written in terms of the Dirac delta function. Finally, using the property of the Dirac delta function, the convergence of the eigenfunction expansion to the velocity potential is shown.

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