scholarly journals Analysis of Shoreline Response due to Wave Energy Incidence Using Equilibrium Beach Profile Concept

2018 ◽  
Vol 32 (2) ◽  
pp. 116-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tae-Kon Kim ◽  
Jung-Lyul Lee
2018 ◽  
Vol 65 (2) ◽  
pp. 91-108
Author(s):  
Grzegorz Różyński

AbstractThis paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.


2015 ◽  
pp. 39
Author(s):  
A. L. Khomchanovsky ◽  
E. A. Fedorova ◽  
An. A. Lygin ◽  
A. Sh. Khabidov

Author(s):  
А. Лыгин ◽  
A. Lygin ◽  
Ан. Лыгин ◽  
An. Lygin ◽  
А. Хабидов ◽  
...  

In the paper the possibility of using Dean’s equilibrium beach profile formula for a large man-made lake coastal conditions was studied. A stringent test of its adequate use was made based on mathematical statistics. The calculations were performed for the real bottom profile of the Novosibirsk reservoir beach.


Author(s):  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinsky ◽  
...  

Based on numerical modelling evolution of beach under waves with height 1,0-1,5 m and period 7,5 and 10,6 sec as well as spectral wave parameters varying cross-shore analysed. The beach reformation of coastal zone relief is spatially uneven. It is established that upper part of underwater beach profile become terraced and width of the terrace is in direct pro-portion to wave height and period on the seaward boundary but inversely to angle of wave energy spreading. In addition it was ascertain that the greatest transfiguration of profile was accompanied by existence of bound infragravity waves, smaller part of its energy and shorter mean wave period as well as more significant roller energy.


2016 ◽  
Vol 75 (sp1) ◽  
pp. 452-456
Author(s):  
Marcelo Rollnic ◽  
Carmen Medeiros

2018 ◽  
Vol 144 (6) ◽  
pp. 04018016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi ◽  
Tingting Zhu ◽  
Sravani Mallavarapu

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 75 ◽  
Author(s):  
David G. Aubrey ◽  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
Charles E. Nordstrom

Beach profiles have been measured at Torrey Pines Beach, California for four years and correlated with tides and accurate spectral estimates of the incident wave field. Characteristic equilibrium beach profiles persist for time spans of up to at least two weeks in response to periods of uniform incident waves. These changes in the beach profiles are primarily due to on-offshore sediment transport which can be related to variations in wave characteristics and tidal phase. The most rapid readjustment of the beach profile occurs during high wave energy conditions coincident with spring tides. Alternatively, the highest berm building is associated with moderate to low waves that coincide with spring tides.


2020 ◽  
Vol 94 ◽  
pp. 102005
Author(s):  
I. López ◽  
J.I. Pagán ◽  
F.J. Navarro-González ◽  
G.V. Müller ◽  
L. Aragonés

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