scholarly journals Upstream Propagating Long-Wave Modes at a Microtidal River Mouth

2020 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 15
Author(s):  
Matteo Postacchini ◽  
Lorenzo Melito ◽  
Alex Sheremet ◽  
Joseph Calantoni ◽  
Giovanna Darvini ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Tide Gauge ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
River Mouth ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Tidal Forcing ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Low Frequency Waves ◽  
Wave Modes

We illustrate recent findings on the upriver propagation of long waves entering the mouth of the Misa River (Senigallia, Italy). Such a microtidal environment has been recently studied to understand river–sea interactions: it has been found that the river forcing dominates over the marine actions in winter, especially during storms. However, upriver wave propagation is not negligible with low-frequency waves propagating upriver for distances of the order of kilometers. With the aim to better understand the behavior of low-frequency waves propagating upriver, the analysis of the present work builds on field data collected by instruments installed close to the mouth and along the final reach of the Misa River: a tide gauge, two hydrometers and an acoustic Doppler sensor. It has been here observed that the tidal forcing (periods of the order of hours/days) is significantly strong at a distance of more than one kilometer from the river mouth, while shorter waves, like seiches (periods of some hours), are less important and are supposed to largely dissipate at the estuary, although their role could be of importance during relatively short events (e.g., floods).

Low-Frequency Oscillations Within the Hambantota Port During the Southwest Monsoon, 2019

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhenjun Zheng ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma ◽  
Xuezhi Huang ◽  
Yujin Dong ◽  
Guohai Dong
Keyword(s):  
Wind Waves ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Southwest Monsoon ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Frequency Wave ◽  
Low Frequency Oscillations ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Spectrum Density ◽  
Forcing Mechanisms ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

Abstract Long waves with periods greater than tens of seconds propagating into a harbor may be trapped and significantly amplified, thereby resulting in detrimental effects on port operations. The water surface elevation in the Hambantota Port, Sri Lanka, was measured to investigate the low-frequency oscillations and their forcing mechanisms. Results show that the port is protected well from short waves with periods less than 30 s; however, the protection against long waves with periods larger than 30 s is inadequate. The spectral analyses identified four dominant periods within the low-frequency wave range. Modal analysis based on the extended mild-slope equation shows that the measured spectrum density for some dominant periods is low because the measurement point is close to the corresponding modal lines. Correlation analysis shows that low-frequency oscillations inside the Hambantota Port are excited directly by the low-frequency waves contained within the incident waves. The low-frequency waves outside the Hambantota Port are generated from the higher-frequency gravity waves (swell and wind waves) due to nonlinear interactions. Empirical formula is adopted to estimate the low-frequency wave height outside the Hambantota Port.

A nonlinear mechanism for the generation of sea waves

1969 ◽  
Vol 311 (1506) ◽  
pp. 371-389 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Orbital Motion ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Shear Instability ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Short Waves ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Mechanism ◽  
Surrounding Fluid

Recent observations of the growth of sea waves under the action of wind have established that the rate of growth is several times greater than has yet been accounted for. In this paper a new mechanism of wave generation is proposed, based on the idea of a maser-like action of the short waves on the longer waves. It is shown that when surface waves decay they impart their momentum to the surrounding fluid. Short waves are readily regenerated by shear instability. But a longer wave passing through shorter waves causes the short waves to steepen on the long-wave crests. Hence the short waves impart more of their momentum to the crests of the long waves, where the orbital motion of the long waves is in the direction of wave propagation. If the short waves are decaying only weakly (under the action of viscosity), the effect on the long waves is slight. But when the short waves are forced to decay strongly by breaking on the forward slopes of the long waves the gain of energy by the latter is greatly increased. Calculations suggest that the mechanism is capable of imparting energy to sea waves at the rate observed.

scholarly journals WAVE GROUPINESS AS A SOURCE OF NEARSHORE LONG WAVES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 38 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jeffrey H. List
Keyword(s):  
Wave Amplitude ◽  
Cross Correlation ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Progressive Wave ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Cross Correlation Analysis ◽  
Limited Usefulness

Data from a low energy swell-dominated surf zone are examined for indications that observed low frequency motions are simply group-forced bounded long waves. Time series of wave amplitude are compared to filtered long wave records through cross-spectral and cross-correlation analysis. These methods are found to have limited usefulness until long waves are separated into seaward and shoreward components. Then a clear picture of a rapidly shoaling bounded long wave emerges, with a minimum of nearly one fourth of the long wave amplitude being explainable by this type of motion close to shore. Through the zone in which waves were breaking, and incident wave amplitude variability decreased by 50%, the contribution from the bounded long wave continued to increase at a rate much greater than a simple shoaling effect. Also present are clear signs that this amplified bounded long wave is reflected from a position close to the shoreline, and is thus released from wave groups as a free, offshore-progressive wave.

WAVE PROPAGATION IN LIPOSOMES

2013 ◽  
Vol 13 (01) ◽  
pp. 1350015
Author(s):  
KE DONG ◽  
GUOXING LU
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Speed ◽  
Critical Frequency ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Mode ◽  
Frequency Region ◽  
Wave Number ◽  
Rotary Inertia ◽  
High Frequency Region ◽  
Wave Modes

The general behavior of wave propagation in liposomes, including the effect of rotary inertia, is examined in this paper, based on a continuum cylindrical shell model. The disperse curves are obtained by solving an eigenvalue problem. The characteristics of wave propagation in liposomes are described using numerical examples. The results show that wave propagation in liposomes has a threshold critical frequency beyond which the wave speed drops dramatically and also a cut-off critical frequency below which the corresponding wave mode does not appear. The torsional wave speed is obtained for the symmetrical circumferential mode n = 0. The cut-off or threshold critical frequency decreases with the increase of liposomal radius, but the effect of radius on wave speed is not significant in the frequency region higher than the critical frequency. On the other hand, the wave number n leads to an increase in the critical frequency. For the first and second wave modes, the wave speed is insensitive to the wave number when the frequency is greater than the critical frequency. For the third wave mode in the low frequency region, the wave number leads to an increase in the wave speed. The rotary inertia has little influence on those wave modes which contain cut-off frequencies. For other wave modes, the rotary inertia results in a decrease in the wave speed in the high frequency region. This investigation may provide a useful guide in the applications of liposomes in ultrasound-based drug delivery and release.

scholarly journals Low-frequency Waves due to Newborn Interstellar Pickup He+ Observed by the Ulysses Spacecraft

2021 ◽  
Vol 923 (2) ◽  
pp. 185
Author(s):  
Anastasia V. Marchuk ◽  
Charles W. Smith ◽  
Abigale S. Watson ◽  
Matthew R. Argall ◽  
Colin J. Joyce ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Magnetic Field ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Excitation ◽  
Pickup Ions ◽  
Magnetic Field Data ◽  
Ion Production ◽  
Background Turbulence ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

Abstract We have surveyed magnetic field data from the Ulysses spacecraft and found examples of magnetic waves with the expected characteristics that point to excitation by newborn pickup He+. With interstellar neutrals as the likely source for the pickup ions, we have modeled the ion production rates and used them to produce wave excitation rates that we compare to the background turbulence rates. The source ions are thought to be always present, but the waves are seen when growth rates are comparable to or exceed the turbulence rates. With the exception of the fast latitude scans, and unlike the waves excited by newborn interstellar pickup H+, the waves are seen throughout the Ulysses orbit.

scholarly journals Mid-latitude ionospheric signature of a weak solar flare in winter

2013 ◽  
Vol 109 (1/2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Etienne J. Koen ◽  
Andrew B. Collier
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Solar Flare ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Moderate Intensity ◽  
X Ray ◽  
Very Low Frequency ◽  
Ionospheric Effects ◽  
Long Wave

Measurements of the amplitude and phase of very low frequency transmitter signals were used to evaluate the effects on the ionosphere of a moderate intensity solar flare that occurred on 13 December 2007. These measurements were compared to modelled results from the Long Wave Propagation Capability code. The ionospheric effects were found to be delayed by ~1 min with respect to the 0.1–0.8 nm solar X-ray flux.

scholarly journals SEPARATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES BY AN ANALYTICAL METHOD

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 64
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Mechanics ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Present Method ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
International Conference ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

A new method for separating low-frequency waves in time domain is proposed by constructing the analytical signals of the measured waves. Using three simultaneous wave records, the time series of incident bound, free and reflected low-frequency waves can be obtained by the present method. This method is only suitable for separating monochromatic low-frequency waves. The applicability of the method is examined by numerical tests. The results show that the present method can give accurate results over sloping beaches when water depth (kh) is larger than 0.2. Then, the present method is used to study an experiment of low-frequency waves over a mild slope beach. References Bakkenes, H.J. 2002. Observation and separation of bound and free low-frequency waves in the nearshore zone, in Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences. Delft University of Technology: Delft. Baldock, T.E., D.A., Huntley, P.A.D., Bird, T.O., Hare, and G.N., Bullock. 2000. Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups. Coastal Engineering. 30 (2-4): 213-242. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7 Battjes, J.A., Bakkenes, H.J., Janssen, T.T., van Dongeren, A.R. 2004. Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res., 109(C2): C02009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC001863 Bowers, E.C. 1977. Harbour resonance due to set-down beneath wave groups. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 79: 71-92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112077000044 Cohen, L. 1995. Time Frequency Analysis: Theory and Applications. Prentice Hall Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey. Dong, G.H., X.Z., Ma, M., Perlin, Y.X., Ma, B., Yu, and G., Wang. 2009. Experimental Study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms. Coastal Engineering, 56(1), 82-89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.002 Kamphuis, J.W. 2000. Designing for low frequency waves. Proceedings of 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Sydney, Australian. 1434-1447. Kostense, J.K. 1984. Measurements of surf beat and set-down beneath wave groups. Proceedings of 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Houston, USA. 724-740. Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and R.W., Stewart. 1962. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves with application to 'surfbeat'. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 13: 481-504 http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877 Mallat, S. 1999. A Wavelet Tour of Signal Processing. Academic Press. PMCid:407895 Nagai, T., N., Hashimoto, T., Asai, et al. 1994. Relationship of a moored vessel in a harbor and a long wave caused by wave groups. Proceedings of 17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Kobe, Japan. 847-861. Schäffer, H.A. 1993. Second-orderwavemaker theory for irregularwaves.Ocean Engineering. 23 (1), 47–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(95)00013-B Symonds, G.D.A., D.A., Huntley, and A.J., Bowen. 1982. Two-dimensional surf beat-long-wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. Journal of Geophysical Research. 87(C1): 492-498. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492 Yu, J. and C.C., Mei. 2000. Formation of sand bars under surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 416: 315-348. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112000001063

Influence of Offshore Reefs on Low-Frequency Waves During Harbor Resonance

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Junliang Gao ◽  
Chunyan Ji ◽  
Xiaojian Ma
Keyword(s):  
Low Frequency ◽  
Resonant Mode ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Frequency Wave ◽  
Wave Separation ◽  
The Given ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

In this paper, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model is used to simulate the shoreward propagation of bichromatic wave groups over different fringing reef topographies and the subsequent low-frequency oscillations inside a harbor. Based on a low-frequency wave separation technique, the effects of the reef-face slope and the reef ridge on the bound and free long waves inside the harbor and their relative components under the condition of the lowest resonant mode are systematically investigated. For the given harbor, the given reef ridge and the range of the incident short wave amplitudes and the reef-face slopes studied in this paper, results show that the amplitude of the free long waves inside the harbor increases with the reefface slope, while the bound long waves inside the harbor is insensitive to the variation of the reef-face slope. The existence of the reef ridge can notably restrain the bound long waves inside the harbor when the incident short wave amplitudes are large, while it has little influence on the free long waves inside the harbor.

The coastal refraction-diffraction wave propagation model

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Diffraction Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Propagation Model

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.

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