scholarly journals A LONG-TERM EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PLANFORM MODEL FOR COASTAL WORK DESIGN

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 43 ◽  
Author(s):  
Verónica Cánovas ◽  
Raúl Medina
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Case Studies ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Control Point ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Work Design ◽  
Sediment Distribution ◽  
Wave Incidence

Traditional models usually allow fitting the equilibrium beach planform of crenulated beaches knowing wave climate characteristics at a control point. However, sometimes there are shoals or bars in the surf zone which affect surf zone dynamics and longshore sediment distribution, and it is difficult to take into account these elements using those traditional models. A long-term equilibrium beach planform model is proposed here based on sediment transport equations. This model takes into account the sediment transport due to oblique wave incidence and that due to wave height gradient. Two case studies have been studied: a simple pocket beach and a beach which is sheltered by a sandstone bar. Results show the model fits reasonably well the equilibrium beach planform to the shorelines of those beaches. This model is more suitable than traditional models when there are elements affecting surf zone dynamics.

scholarly journals Wave climate in the Arkona Basin, the Baltic Sea

Ocean Science ◽  
2012 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 287-300 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Soomere ◽  
R. Weisse ◽  
A. Behrens
Keyword(s):  
Baltic Sea ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wind Fields ◽  
The Baltic Sea ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Baltic ◽  
Basic Features

Abstract. The basic features of the wave climate in the Southwestern Baltic Sea (such as the average and typical wave conditions, frequency of occurrence of different wave parameters, variations in wave heights from weekly to decadal scales) are established based on waverider measurements at the Darss Sill in 1991–2010. The measured climate is compared with two numerical simulations with the WAM wave model driven by downscaled reanalysis of wind fields for 1958–2002 and by adjusted geostrophic winds for 1970–2007. The wave climate in this region is typical for semi-enclosed basins of the Baltic Sea. The maximum wave heights are about half of those in the Baltic Proper. The maximum recorded significant wave height HS =4.46 m occurred on 3 November 1995. The wave height exhibits no long-term trend but reveals modest interannual (about 12 % of the long-term mean of 0.76 m) and substantial seasonal variation. The wave periods are mostly concentrated in a narrow range of 2.6–4 s. Their distribution is almost constant over decades. The role of remote swell is very small.

Long-Term Wave Power Statistics for Individual Waves

2015 ◽  
Vol 137 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Bernt J. Leira ◽  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Statistical Information ◽  
Power Device ◽  
Wave Power ◽  
Power Devices ◽  
Short Term ◽  
Wave Power Potential ◽  
The Individual

The paper provides long-term bivariate distributions of wave power with wave height, and wave power with wave period. This is relevant for assessments of wave power devices and their potential for converting energy from waves. The results can be applied to compare systematically the wave power potential for individual waves at different locations based on short-term statistical description of the individual waves and the long-term statistical information of the wave climate. Furthermore, it allows for assessment of the efficiency of a given wave power device for each location.

scholarly journals A FIELD STUDY OF WAVES IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 3 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Hotta ◽  
M. Mizuguchi ◽  
M. Isobe
Keyword(s):  
Field Study ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Nearshore Zone ◽  
Camera System ◽  
Joint Distributions ◽  
Initial Analysis ◽  
Sea Bottom ◽  
Initial Results

Initial results are described of precise observations of waves shoaling in the nearshore zone. The key technique of the experiments is a 16 mm memo-motion camera system by which long term measurements of waves can be made simultaneously at many locations. Six or seven pairs of synchronized cameras were mounted on a research pier crossing the surf zone. The cameras were focused on target poles mounted on sleds which were towed about 200 m outside the breaker line, and on a line of poles jetted into the sea bottom across the surf zone. Waves transforming in the nearshore zone were observed from about 400 m offshore to the shoreline. At present only the characteristics of the statistical waves, wave height distributions, wave period distributions, and the joint distributions of wave height and period are described as part of the initial analysis.

Wave Power Statistics for Sea States

2011 ◽  
Vol 133 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Dag Myrhaug ◽  
Bernt J. Leira ◽  
Håvard Holm
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Bivariate Distribution ◽  
Wave Power ◽  
Power Devices ◽  
Characteristic Wave ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Power Potential

This paper provides a bivariate distribution of wave power and significant wave height, as well as a bivariate distribution of wave power and a characteristic wave period for sea states, and the statistical aspects of wave power for sea states are discussed. This is relevant for, e.g., making assessments of wave power devices and their potential for converting energy from waves. The results can be applied to compare systematically the wave power potential at different locations based on long term statistical description of the wave climate.

scholarly journals An evaluation of a new offshore breakwater at Sattahip Port, Thailand

2018 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. Proof ◽  
Author(s):  
Siriluk Prukpitikul ◽  
Nuttorn Kaewpoo ◽  
Effi Helmy Ariffin
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Decision Makers ◽  
Careful Planning ◽  
Port Development ◽  
Wrong Direction ◽  
Simulation Results ◽  
Bathymetric Map ◽  
Different Characteristics

A careful planning in a port development is vital. Offshore breakwater is known to reduce wave height approaching a port, but it is not always the case. Different ports have different characteristics. This article chose to analyse Sattahip Port. Necessary information such as annual wave climate, long-term tidal records, and bathymetric map were collected and synthesized. Numerical simulations were carried out by MIKE21 PMS. The simulation results showed that the existing breakwater at the port could only protect some parts of the port. If the whole area of the port were to be sheltered, a new offshore breakwater had to be installed at a certain location. The existing breakwater could not be extended because it was interfered by the existing navigational channel. The new breakwater at the nearest island was another option but it was proved by the simulation results that the new breakwater could not reduce the wave height as planned. If the wave simulation was not undertaken, decision makers might proceed in the wrong direction and millions of dollars would be wasted.

scholarly journals Wave Analysis for Offshore Aquaculture Projects: A Case Study for the Eastern Mediterranean Sea

Climate ◽  
2022 ◽  
Vol 10 (1) ◽  
pp. 2
Author(s):  
Flora E. Karathanasi ◽  
Takvor H. Soukissian ◽  
Daniel R. Hayes
Keyword(s):  
Mediterranean Sea ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Eastern Mediterranean ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Eastern Mediterranean Sea ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Offshore Aquaculture

The investigation of wave climate is of primary concern for the successful implementation of offshore aquaculture systems as waves can cause significant loads on them. Up until now, site selection and design (or selection) of offshore cage system structures on extended sea areas do not seem to follow any specific guidelines. This paper presents a novel methodology for the identification of favorable sites for offshore aquaculture development in an extended sea area based on two important technical factors: (i) the detailed characterization of the wave climate, and (ii) the water depth. Long-term statistics of the significant wave height, peak wave period, and wave steepness are estimated on an annual and monthly temporal scale, along with variability measures. Extreme value analysis is applied to estimate the design values and associated return periods of the significant wave height; structures should be designed based on this data, to avoid partial or total failure. The Eastern Mediterranean Sea is selected as a case study, and long-term time series of wave spectral parameters from the ERA5 dataset are utilized. Based on the obtained results, the most favorable areas for offshore aquaculture installations have been identified.

scholarly journals Sediment Transport Beyond the Surf Zone Under Waves and Currents of the Non-Tidal Sea: Lubiatowo (Poland) Case Study

2016 ◽  
Vol 63 (1) ◽  
pp. 63-77 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rafał Ostrowski ◽  
Magdalena Stella
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Coastal Region ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Soil Parameters ◽  
Shear Stresses ◽  
Research Station ◽  
Sea Bed ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Bed Changes

Abstract The paper deals with the sandy coastal zone at Lubiatowo in Poland (the south Baltic Sea). The study comprises experimental and theoretical investigations of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes in the coastal region located close to the seaward boundary of the surf zone and beyond the surf zone. The analysis is based on field data collected at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. The data consist of wind velocity reconstructed from the long-term wave climate, deep-water wave buoy records and sea bottom soil parameters. Nearbed flow velocities induced by waves and currents, as well as bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for various conditions to determine sediment motion regimes in the considered area. The paper discusses the possibility of occasional intensive sediment transport and the occurrence of distinct sea bed changes at bigger water depths.

scholarly journals Wave climatology in the Arkona Basin, the Baltic Sea

2011 ◽  
Vol 8 (6) ◽  
pp. 2237-2270 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Soomere ◽  
R. Weisse ◽  
A. Behrens
Keyword(s):  
Baltic Sea ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
The Baltic Sea ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Baltic

Abstract. The basic features of the wave climate in the South-Eastern Baltic Sea are studied based on available long-term measurements and simulations. The analysis of average, typical and extreme wave conditions, frequency of occurrence of different wave parameters, variations in wave heights from weekly to decadal scales, etc., is performed based on waverider measurements at the Darss Sill since 1991. The measured climatology is compared against numerical simulations with the WAM wave model driven by downscaled reanalysis of wind fields for 1958–2002 and by adjusted geostrophic winds for 1970–2007. The wave climate in this region is typical for semi-enclosed basins of the Baltic Sea. The maximum wave heights are about half of those in the Baltic Proper. The overall reliably recorded maximum significant wave height HS =4.46 m occurred during a severe S-SW storm in 1993 when the 10-min average wind speed reached 28 m s−1. The long-term average significant wave height (0.75 m) shows modest interannual (about 12 % of the long-term mean) and substantial seasonal variation. The wave periods are mostly concentrated in a narrow range of 2.5–4 s and their distribution is almost constant over decades. The role of remote swell is very small. The annual wave properties show large interannual variability but no long-term trends in average and extreme wave heights can be observed.

scholarly journals STATISTICAL MODELLING OF LONG-TERM WAVE CLIMATES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 4 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard Burrows ◽  
Barham A. Salih
Keyword(s):  
Data Base ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Joint Probability ◽  
Statistical Modelling ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Statistical Properties ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Data

The paper discusses the long-term statistical properties of ocean and coastal wave climates derived from the analysis of instrumental wave data. The aim of the work reported has been to determine the theoretical distributions, from those commonly used in analysis of wave data, which best describe the joint probability of significant wave height, Hs, and mean zero-upcrossing period, Tz. A method of modelling the wave climate in this manner has been developed utilizing parametric means of specification. The data base used in the study covers records from 18 sites around the British Isles.

scholarly journals LONGHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT ASSESSMENT BASED ON WAVE SYSTEMS

2020 ◽  
pp. 43
Author(s):  
Rodrigo Alonso ◽  
Sebastian Solari
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Coastal Management ◽  
Atlantic Coast ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Comprehensive Assessment ◽  
Coastal Morphology ◽  
Factors Influencing ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Main Factors

Longshore sediment transport (LST) is one of the main factors influencing coastal morphology and its comprehensive assessment constitutes a valuable input for coastal management. In this work, the concept of long-term wave systems is used to analyze the wave climate of the Uruguayan Atlantic coast with focus on its impact on LST. It is shown how LST rate estimation changes by consider wave spectral partitions, identifies which wave systems contributes most to LST and provides a more detailed insight on its intra- and inter- annual variability and its correlation with climatic indexes.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link):

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