coastal morphology
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Land ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 10 (12) ◽  
pp. 1344
Author(s):  
Vicent Esteban Chapapría ◽  
José Serra Peris

The vulnerability of coastal areas is related to the existence and functionality of infrastructure. Ports have had increased activity in the last few decades due to growing needs of the market. At the same time, there have been huge changes in maritime traffic, and some ports are specialized in container traffic. The port in Valencia developed notably in the last expansions, in the 1980s and in the recent northern expansion. Valencia’s port specializes in container traffic, and has become a Mediterranean leader and the metropolitan area is an important logistics center. Ports can create coastal erosion by altering wave patterns. The environmental effects of the port of Valencia were analyzed. The Spanish Mediterranean coastline as well as morpho-dynamic units were monitored. The solid transport capacity to the north and south of the Valencia port was estimated, and the effects of other infrastructure on sedimentary sources of beaches were also studied. The port of Valencia’s barrier effect is responsible for the situation at the beaches to the north and south. This effect is total and impedes net sediment transport, predominantly to the south along the stretch of coastline. However, the port is not the only factor responsible for this situation, and the lack of continental sediments must also be considered. In addition, climate change has an influence on the behavior of the coastline. The vulnerability of the coast has increased due to changes in coastal morphology, variations in littoral transport rates, and coastal erosion. To promote sustainable port management, some correction measures, such as sand bypassing, dune rehabilitation, and dune vegetation, are proposed.


2021 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 14-17
Author(s):  
Subiyanto Subiyanto ◽  
Sudradjat Supian

This paper aim to create simple hydrodynamic simulation by using MIKE 21. The module used in MIKE 21 is LITPACK. LITPACK is one of the modules in MIKE 21 to solve hydraulic and sedimentation problems in coastal areas. Especially in this paper, the LITTLITE engine in LITPACK will be used. LITLINE determines the coastline position using a timeseries of wave climatic data. The model is based on a one-line theory, in which the cross-shore profile is expected to remain unaltered during erosion/accretion, with minor adjustments. Coastal morphology is thus only defined by coastline location (cross-shore direction) and coastal profile at a given long-shore position. The simulation used in this paper is the influence of groins on shoreline dynamics. The results of the simulation show that some areas will experience abrasion and some will experience accretion. 


Sensors ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 21 (21) ◽  
pp. 7352
Author(s):  
Bo Liu ◽  
Bin Yang ◽  
Sina Masoud-Ansari ◽  
Huina Wang ◽  
Mark Gahegan

The study of coastal processes is critical for the protection and development of beach amenities, infrastructure, and properties. Many studies of beach evolution rely on data collected using remote sensing and show that beach evolution can be characterized by a finite number of “beach states”. However, due to practical constraints, long-term data displaying all beach states are rare. Additionally, when the dataset is available, the accuracy of the classification is not entirely objective since it depends on the operator. To address this problem, we collected hourly coastal images and corresponding tidal data for more than 20 years (November 1998–August 2019). We classified the images into eight categories according to the classic beach state classification, defined as (1) reflective, (2) incident scaled bar, (3) non-rhythmic, attached bar, (4) attached rhythmic bar, (5) offshore rhythmic bar, (6) non-rhythmic, 3-D bar, (7) infragravity scaled 2-D bar, (8) dissipative. We developed a classification model based on convolutional neural networks (CNN). After image pre-processing with data enhancement, we compared different CNN models. The improved ResNext obtained the best and most stable classification with F1-score of 90.41% and good generalization ability. The classification results of the whole dataset were transformed into time series data. MDLats algorithms were used to find frequent temporal patterns in morphology changes. Combining the pattern of coastal morphology change and the corresponding tidal data, we also analyzed the characteristics of beach morphology and the changes in morphodynamic states.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1161
Author(s):  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Kévin Martins

A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydrodynamic quantities were in good agreement with measurements for two wave events during which deflection rips were captured. In particular, the model was able to reproduce the tidal modulation and very-low-frequency fluctuations (≈1 h period) of the deflection rip during the 4-m wave event. For that event, the synoptic flow behaviour shows the large spatial coverage of the rip which extended 1600 m offshore at low tide, when the surf zone limit extends beyond the headland tip. These results emphasize a deflection mechanism different from conceptualised deflection mechanisms based on the boundary length to surf zone width ratio. Further simulations indicate that the adjacent embayment is responsible for the seaward extent of the rip under energetic wave conditions. The present study shows that the circulation patterns along natural rugged coastlines are strongly controlled by the natural variability of the coastal morphology, including headland shape and adjacent embayments, which has implications on headland bypassing expressions.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (10) ◽  
pp. 1124
Author(s):  
Dinh Nhat Quang ◽  
Vu Huong Ngan ◽  
Ho Sy Tam ◽  
Nguyen Trung Viet ◽  
Nguyen Xuan Tinh ◽  
...  

A Quang Nam coastline, located in the central of Vietnam, has been strongly affected by severe erosion and accretion due to climate change and human activities. Thus, understanding the causes and mechanisms of coastal morphology changes is essential to offer optimal coastal management and protection solutions. In this research, the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) technique developed by the United States Geological Survey was adopted to calculate rate-of-change statistics from multiple historical coastline positions of Quang Nam province extracted from satellite images, i.e., Landsat and Sentinel images from 1990 to 2019. The coastal dynamic was digitized, visualized, and compared by two statistical parameters provided in DSAS, namely End Point Rate (EPR) and Linear Regression Rate (LRR). The final results reveal that the Quang Nam coast experienced remarkable phenomena of erosion and accumulation over the past three decades. The total number of erosional and accretional transects obtained from the EPR results are 401 and 414, with annual change rates of −1.7 and 0.77 m/year, respectively. The LRR parameter was also considered and illustrated a significant correlation with the EPR, as the obtained R2 value of 0.96. The lowest value of EPR over the period 1990–2019 is −42.4 m/year, highlighting the most significant erosion at the north of Cua Dai estuary, whereas coastline advance is recorded in the south segment. As a result, this study’s outcomes provide helpful information for better and sustainable coastal management in Quang Nam province of Vietnam.


2021 ◽  
Vol 261 ◽  
pp. 112469
Author(s):  
Erwin W.J. Bergsma ◽  
Rafael Almar ◽  
Amandine Rolland ◽  
Renaud Binet ◽  
Katherine L. Brodie ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (8) ◽  
pp. 815
Author(s):  
Muhammad Irham ◽  
Ichsan Rusydi ◽  
Haekal A. Haridhi ◽  
Ichsan Setiawan ◽  
Yopi Ilhamsyah ◽  
...  

The purpose of this study was to determine how vulnerable the west coast of Aceh Besar, Aceh province, Indonesia, is in terms of its coastal morphology. This research was conducted from August to December 2020 and data processing was carried out at the Geographical Information Systems Laboratory, Faculty of Marine Affairs and Fisheries, Syiah Kuala University. The method used was the coastal vulnerability index (CVI) with four geological parameters, namely geomorphological parameters, beach elevation, beach slope and shoreline changes. The results obtained from the CVI method show that 20.60% of the west coast of Aceh Besar, which has a total coastline length of 93.2 km, is in the very high vulnerability category (19.2 km), while 23.18% (21.6 km) is in the high vulnerability category, 8.80% (8.2 km) in the moderate category, 6.44% (6 km) in the low category and 40.99% (38.2 km) in the very low category. Sub-districts classified as having very high vulnerability are Peukanbada (7.94%), Leupung (6.22%), Lhoong (4.94%), and Lhoknga (1.50%). The geomorphology of areas that have very high vulnerability is generally in the form of sandy beaches with a very gentle slope, while, geomorphologically, areas that have very low vulnerability have a high elevation and cliff beaches.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (7) ◽  
pp. 713
Author(s):  
Yoshimichi Yamamoto

Sediment-collecting in rivers and seas to secure a large amount of aggregate reduces the supply of earth and sand to coasts [...]


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