Appropriateness and appropriation: examining Modernist couture connections to Edwardian lingerie and boudoir clothing

This research explores material artifacts of Edwardian lingerie and Modernist couture through their cultural and material connections. Material culture theories of communication and production were used to examine garment artifacts from both Eras, while a conceptual framework provided a space to develop material outcomes and knowledge based upon research. Key findings from the research show that the cultural commodification of the female body, increased female agency and the fragmentation of social structures resulted in the development of specialized garments uniquely suited to the cultural requirements of the Modernist Era. Cultural producers continually adapted design practices and transformed dress signifiers of value in a cycle of appropriation and transformation. In addition, the appropriation of labour intensive Edwardian Era Lingerie techniques by Modernist couture houses supported the development of exclusive commodities whose design process was key to preventing devaluation through counterfeiting. Ultimately, a collection of garments resulted from a design exploration of these techniques, using action and practitioner research.

Appropriateness and appropriation: examining Modernist couture connections to Edwardian lingerie and boudoir clothing

This research explores material artifacts of Edwardian lingerie and Modernist couture through their cultural and material connections. Material culture theories of communication and production were used to examine garment artifacts from both Eras, while a conceptual framework provided a space to develop material outcomes and knowledge based upon research. Key findings from the research show that the cultural commodification of the female body, increased female agency and the fragmentation of social structures resulted in the development of specialized garments uniquely suited to the cultural requirements of the Modernist Era. Cultural producers continually adapted design practices and transformed dress signifiers of value in a cycle of appropriation and transformation. In addition, the appropriation of labour intensive Edwardian Era Lingerie techniques by Modernist couture houses supported the development of exclusive commodities whose design process was key to preventing devaluation through counterfeiting. Ultimately, a collection of garments resulted from a design exploration of these techniques, using action and practitioner research.

Implications of cultural commodification of sinden on authenticity of local culture: a case study in Jimbe Village, Blitar District, East Java, Indonesia

This article is a critical review of the impact of tourism that causes the commodification of local culture. Through a study in the Sinden Village in Jimbe Village, as the pioneer of the development of the Sinden art in Blitar District that has been established as pioneering village by the Tourism, Culture, Youth and Sport Services (DISPARBUDPORA) of Blitar Regency, this article attempts to discuss the cultural commodification of Sinden art as one of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. This article uses a qualitative method with a case study approach. Therefore, the data in this article was obtained by the researcher by using the interview techniques and direct observation. The findings show that the commodification of the Sinden culture does not completely change the authenticity of the Sinden culture. It is because the people of Jimbe village only commodify the supporting facilities of the Sinden culture, such as songs, the use of musical instruments, and wardrobes. Whereas, the authenticity of the Sinden culture itself is not determined by those, but rather from the delivery of messages and special singing techniques.

Bottom-up creativity and insurgent citizenship in “Afro Lisboa”: Racial difference and cultural commodification in Portugal

This article analyzes recent audio-visual creativity by young Afrodescendants emerging out of the outskirts of Lisbon. We argue that those cultural productions are challenging unproblematic identifications of the Portuguese capital as a multicultural city shaped by African communities. Responding to issues of racism, police violence, and urban marginalization, but also to celebratory views of Portuguese society as exempt of racial discrimination, the communities inhabiting the neighborhoods of Cova da Moura and Quinta do Mocho are employing creative means to develop a positive identification of afro-diasporic communities. Engaging those means, this article places bottom-up creativity side by side to the activity of Lisbon cultural institutions such as museums and contemporary art centers. It also addresses the relevance of visual and musical creativity to counter the stereotypes and images frequently used to categorize racialized subjects and communities in Portugal. Finally, it explores the strategies employed by the residents of the above mentioned neighborhoods to struggle against the process of cultural gentrification Lisbon is going through.

Re-envisioning Citizen Diplomacy: A Case Study of a Multifaceted, Transnational, People’s Republic of China “Ethnopreneur”

This article problematises the traditional conceptualisation of the “citizen diplomat” as being confined only to a single nation state sovereignty. At the nexus of transnational “ethnopreneurship,” dual embeddedness, neoliberalism, and post-materialism, citizen diplomats transcend territorially bound identities and perform unofficial dual-accredited roles in the enhancement of bilateral relationships. The protagonist in this case is a transnational People’s Republic of China ethnopreneur who adopts multiple forms of cultural commodification based on both Thai and Chinese resources. As a result, both territories have benefitted from the ensuing informal diplomatic interactions. Traversing the culturally distinctive city of Chiang Mai in Thailand and several flourishing cities in China, the article elucidates the importance of non-traditional diplomats. Put succinctly, it argues for a re-envisioning of transnational ethnopreneurial diplomacy so as to recognise multiple identities, cultures, and markets wherein positive-sum diplomatic returns are achieved. From an intra-Asian perspective, it seeks to remedy a scarcity in the literature – given that existing migrant studies are largely set in North American and European contexts.

Festival Air (Songkran): Komodifikasi Budaya di Thailand

<p><em>This research aims to want to see the occurred on the discourse of cultural commodification of Songkran in Thailand. Songkran in Thailand is a religious and cultural festival, which is the celebration of New Year in Thailand. Culture of Songkran festival which then becomes bringing many foreign tourists come to some areas in Thailand like Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket. This great Festival and then give effect to social, cultural as well as the economy on local community. The methods used in this study is a qualitative descriptive based on the experiences both of the author. The data analyzed i.e. secondary data that comes from a variety of scientific journals, then the primary data are analyzed based on the author’s experience when on the Songkran festival in Thailand on April, 2019. Based on the analysis that the commodification of culture happens to Songkran in Thailand is not so much to erode the authenticity of rituals. This means that the core rituals such as bathing the Buddha statues in the temples still do. Commodification is a positive impact on the local community, where on area of the festival they provided tubs for sale in range 5 THB to 15 THB. Then, foreign tourists are pouring in from various countries are also effect on the local community economy.</em></p>

Madurese Soap Opera: An Industry and Madurese Culture Migration of Situbondo People

The purpose of this study is to describe a variety of research problems, including the industrialization of Madurese soap opera and the Madurese cultural migration of the Situbondo community. The results showed that Madurese soap opera is a product of cultural industrialization that is produced based on the logic of mass cultures. Such as standardization, commodification, and massification. Standardization is seen from the use of local artists, Madurese dangdut music, as well as local narratives built through local phenomena in Situbondo. Cultural commodification can be seen from the changing motive of drama arts (Al Badar) to VCD films (Madurese soap opera). As a commodity, Madurese soap opera has an economic motivation that is demonstrated in terms of massification; it is produced in 10,000 pieces and distributed to the local market within East Java. Madurese soap opera is a phenomenon of the disruption of global industrial technology captured by local communities, acting as a comparison to the national soap opera industry. The contestation can be seen through both abilities in using global technology, namely television. Local television has a big role in promoting local content such as Madurese soap opera. Madurese soap opera on local television eventually became a medium that could bring people closer to their Madurese cultural identity.