BIBLIOGRAFI SEJARAH PAKAIAN DI INDONESIA PADA MASA PEMERINTAHAN HINDIA BELANDA

Clothing history is currently starting to be in demand. This is due to the emergency of a new trend in the use of masks and changes in the time of wearing clothes due to the global pandemic that is still ongoing today, namely Covid-19. To trace the development of clothes in Indonesia in the past, of course, it is necessary to study the literature or bibliography. Of course, in the past there have been publications related to clothes developments such as books, journals, magazines, newspapers that can be accessed for use in reconstructing the history of clothes. Beginning by describing the historical context during Dutch East Indies government, the purpose of this research is to take an inventory and identify a number of publications related to the history of clothes. The method used is the historical method. The results of this study indicate that the publications related to the history of clothes are numerous and varied. Therefore, it must be used properly and effectively so that the dynamics that occur in the clothes sector look more complete and comprehensive. In addition, it is hoped that research on the bibliography of clothes history can help historical researchers who are interested in studying the history of clothes in Indonesia.

THE ROLE OF FELT IN APPAREL CULTURE OF TURKIC PEOPLE

The article discusses men's apparel-felt, which plays an important role in the clothing culture of the Caucasian peoples. Information about the history of this type of clothing, its distribution area, production method, types and their forms are provided. The article also researched the pronunciation of clothing in different languages, and using dictionaries compiled by well-known researchers, these expressions were brought into scientific circulation. Our research analyzed the expressions related to yapinji recorded in Mahmud Kashgari's famous work "Divani-lüğet-it türk" and those expressions helped us to think about the etymology of the yapinji. This study provides detailed information on the forms and etymology of yapinji in Azerbaijan, and notes the toponyms associated with 'kapanak'. Special attention is paid to the etymology of the kapanak, and it is concluded that the kapanak is not an insect, as noted in the scientific literature, and is associated with the Kapan branch of the pecheneg tribe. The article puts forward new scientific views on the widespread "khillig" among Azerbaijanis living in the Agbaba region. Conceptual, historical and review methods were used in the research. The article will be as a useful resource for students, researchers, scientists and experts whose research is mostly related to this field. Key words: Clothing culture, felt cloak, clothing history, turkic people, kepenek

An Phased Analysis on the Research of Textile and Costume History in Journal of Silk

The historical theory column "History and Culture" of Journal of Silk is unique in the textile and costume journal industry. Many famous scholars in history and nowadays have written papers on this column. The phased research on the column will help us clarify the academic history and important figures of textile and costume history. Based on the relevant statistics of Journal of Silk, the research concludes that: ① The name change of historical theory column in Journal of Silk reflects the determination of Journal of Silk whose historical theory column starts from the history of silk and finally extends to the entire history of textile culture and textile technology. ② The research on clothing history in Journal of Silk can be divided into four periods. 1977-1986 is the budding period, 1987-2003 is the hovering period, 2004-2014 is the stable period, and 2015 is the accelerated development period. ③ The factors of this stage are closely related to the amount of papers published. The changes in the amount of papers published in the previous period are closely related to politics. With the deepening of economic reforms, it is closely related to the reform and development of the textile industry and the development of universities.

Iš Lietuvos etnologijos istorijos: aprangos tyrimo pagrindų paieškos

Works by 19th-century Lithuanian authors on Lithuanian clothing are considered in the historiography of ethnology to be historical or ethnographic sources, but no comparative analysis of such works on clothing has been performed so far. To fill this gap, we analyse texts written in the 19th century and up to 1918, in order to determine the basics of clothing research in ethnology. The aims are to analyse the information provided in these works, written in different languages, on Lithuanian (also known as peasant, or folk) clothing, discussing questions of the use of old names for clothing in these works. Key words: ancient and traditional Lithuanian clothing, history of ethnology, clothing terms, ethnographic sources, historical sources, historiography of ethnology.