Statistics Applied to Wave Climate on a Beach Profile

Long-Term Observations of Beach Variability at Hasaki, Japan

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering ◽

10.3390/jmse8110871 ◽

2020 ◽

Vol 8 (11) ◽

pp. 871

Author(s):

Masayuki Banno ◽

Satoshi Nakamura ◽

Taichi Kosako ◽

Yasuyuki Nakagawa ◽

Shin-ichi Yanagishima ◽

...

Keyword(s):

Morphological Change ◽

High Frequency ◽

Climate Changes ◽

Wave Climate ◽

Time Interval ◽

Observation Data ◽

Beach Profile ◽

Water Level Variations ◽

Monthly Variations

Long-term beach observation data for several decades are essential to validate beach morphodynamic models that are used to predict coastal responses to sea-level rise and wave climate changes. At the Hasaki coast, Japan, the beach profile has been measured for 34 years at a daily to weekly time interval. This beach morphological dataset is one of the longest and most high-frequency measurements of the beach morphological change worldwide. The profile data, with more than 6800 records, reflect short- to long-term beach morphological change, showing coastal dune development, foreshore morphological change and longshore bar movement. We investigated the temporal beach variability from the decadal and monthly variations in elevation. Extremely high waves and tidal anomalies from an extratropical cyclone caused a significant change in the long-term bar behavior and foreshore slope. The berm and bar variability were also affected by seasonal wave and water level variations. The variabilities identified here from the long-term observations contribute to our understanding of various coastal phenomena.

Download Full-text

SEDIMENT TRANSPORT & ACCRETION ABOUND THE COASTLINES OF JAPAN

Coastal Engineering Proceedings ◽

10.9753/icce.v10.28 ◽

1966 ◽

Vol 1 (10) ◽

pp. 28

Author(s):

Richard Silvester

Keyword(s):

Sediment Transport ◽

Coastal Plain ◽

Large Scale ◽

Wave Climate ◽

Economic Importance ◽

Coastal Plains ◽

Beach Profile ◽

Littoral Drift ◽

Geologic Time ◽

Catchment Characteristics

The process of sedimentation can be traced from its initiation as weathering of base rock, transport to the ocean by rivers, and its distribution by waves. The sediment supplied by a river is dependent upon catchment characteristics - topography, precipitation, vegetation and geology. The grading of this sediment can change over geologic time. The transport of material by waves is an important aspect of this overall movement, to a destination of either coastal plain or offshore shoal. The persistent occurrence and direction of ocean swell make this wave domain the most important in this process. In enclosed seas littoral drift is effected by storm type waves, per medium of a different beach profile from that on oceanic margins. Accepting that the wave climate has not changed significantly over geologic time, it is possible to picture the geomorphology of river and coastal plains to the present continental outline. The coastlines of Japan are examined in this paper with such an emphasis. Lowland so formed is of extreme economic importance. In order to promote accretion of further areas on a large scale, the character of the sediment and of the natural forces available at any location must be considered. Suitable structures and their siting within natural shoreline features are discussed.

Download Full-text

Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales

Marine Geology ◽

10.1016/j.margeo.2016.09.012 ◽

2016 ◽

Vol 381 ◽

pp. 194-208 ◽

Cited By ~ 8

Author(s):

Harshinie Karunarathna ◽

Jose Horrillo-Caraballo ◽

Yoshiaki Kuriyama ◽

Hajime Mase ◽

Roshanka Ranasinghe ◽

...

Keyword(s):

Wave Climate ◽

Sediment Composition ◽

Beach Profile ◽

Multiple Timescales

Download Full-text

A Study of influence on Equilibrium Beach Profile due to Medium and Long Term Wave Climate Change

Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers Ser B2 (Coastal Engineering) ◽

10.2208/kaigan.68.i_1266 ◽

2012 ◽

Vol 68 (2) ◽

pp. I_1266-I_1270

Author(s):

Kentaro HAYASHI ◽

Nobuhito MORI ◽

Hajime MASE ◽

Yoshiaki KURIYAMA

Keyword(s):

Climate Change ◽

Wave Climate ◽

Beach Profile ◽

Equilibrium Beach Profile

Download Full-text

A Coupled Hydrodynamic-Equilibrium Type Beach Profile Evolution Model

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering ◽

10.3390/jmse9040353 ◽

2021 ◽

Vol 9 (4) ◽

pp. 353

Author(s):

Florent Birrien ◽

Tom Baldock

Keyword(s):

Sediment Transport ◽

Surf Zone ◽

Wave Climate ◽

Transformation Model ◽

Wave Transformation ◽

Zone Model ◽

Beach Profile ◽

Model Concept ◽

Equilibrium Beach Profile ◽

The Cross

An equilibrium beach profile model is developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between the evolving morphology and the hydrodynamics. The model is compared to laboratory beach profiles evolving toward equilibrium conditions under constant forcing. The equilibrium model follows the classical approach but uses the bulk sediment transport as the governing model parameter. This approach is coupled with empirically derived and normalised sediment transport functions and a parametric surf zone wave transformation model. The dissipation predicted by the surf zone model controls the cross-shore position of the maxima in the sediment transport functions and hence the cross-shore evolution of the beach profile. Realistic beach profile shapes are generated for both erosive (barred) and accretive (bermed) beach profiles, and predictions of bar and berm position are satisfactory. With more complex normalised sediment transport functions, the model can be applied to conditions with a cyclical wave climate. However, the model concept is better associated with erosive wave conditions and further work is required to improve the link between the modelled dissipation and local transport for accretive conditions.

Download Full-text