Wave Refraction, Diffraction, and Reflection

1997 ◽  
pp. 78-107 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert M. Sorensen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Refraction

Sub-tidal ebb-shoal control of shoreline erosion via wave refraction, Magilligan foreland, Northern Ireland

1982 ◽  
Vol 48 (1-2) ◽  
pp. M17-M25 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.W.G. Carter ◽  
P. Lowry ◽  
G.W. Stone
Keyword(s):  
Northern Ireland ◽  
Shoreline Erosion ◽  
Wave Refraction

Wave refraction in an ocean front

1985 ◽  
Vol 90 (C6) ◽  
pp. 11929 ◽  
Author(s):  
William McLeish ◽  
Duncan B. Ross
Keyword(s):  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Ocean Front

A pitfall in shallow shear-wave refraction surveying

2002 ◽  
Vol 51 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-9 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jianghai Xia ◽  
Richard D Miller ◽  
Choon B Park ◽  
Ed Wightman ◽  
Robert Nigbor
Keyword(s):  
Shear Wave ◽  
Wave Refraction

Wave refraction and reef island stability under rising sea level

2019 ◽  
Vol 172 ◽  
pp. 256-267 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mirella B. Costa ◽  
Eduardo C. Macedo ◽  
Eduardo Siegle
Keyword(s):  
Sea Level ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Rising Sea Level

scholarly journals Influence of Early Winter Upward Wave Activity Flux on Midwinter Circulation in the Stratosphere and Troposphere

2004 ◽  
Vol 17 (22) ◽  
pp. 4443-4452 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alexei Karpetchko ◽  
Grigory Nikulin
Keyword(s):  
Heat Flux ◽  
Reanalysis Data ◽  
Wave Activity ◽  
Heat Fluxes ◽  
Early Winter ◽  
Polar Night ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Eddy Heat Flux ◽  
Wave Flux

Abstract Using NCEP–NCAR reanalysis data the authors show that the November–December averaged stratospheric eddy heat flux is strongly anticorrelated with the January–February averaged eddy heat flux in the midlatitude stratosphere and troposphere. This finding further emphasizes differences between early and midwinter stratospheric wave flux behavior, which has recently been found in long-term variations. Analysis suggests that the intraseasonal anticorrelation of stratospheric heat fluxes results from changes in the upward wave propagation in the troposphere. Stronger (weaker) upward wave fluxes in early winter lead to weaker (stronger) upward wave fluxes from the troposphere during midwinter. Also, enhanced equatorward wave refraction during midwinter (due to the stronger polar night jet) is associated with weak heat flux in the early winter. It is suggested that the effect of enhanced midwinter upward wave flux from the troposphere in the years with weak early winter heat flux overcompensates the effect of increased equatorward wave refraction in midwinter, leading to a net increase of midwinter upward wave fluxes into the stratosphere.

An asymptotic theory of combined wave refraction and diffraction

1979 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 137-146 ◽  
Author(s):  
Philip L.-F. Liu ◽  
Carlos J. Lozano ◽  
Nick Pantazaras
Keyword(s):  
Asymptotic Theory ◽  
Wave Refraction

scholarly journals Wave Transformation for International Hub Port Planning (Transformasi Gelombang untuk Perencanaan Pelabuhan Hub Internasional)

2015 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
pp. 9
Author(s):  
Denny Nugroho Sugianto ◽  
Purwanto Purwanto ◽  
Andika B Candra
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Vital Role ◽  
Ocean Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Maximum Period ◽  
Wave Patterns ◽  
Port Planning ◽  
North Sumatra

Indonesia merupakan salah satu negara kepulauan terbesar di dunia sehingga peran pelabuhan sangat vital dalam pembangunan ekonomi. Pelabuhan bukan hanya sekedar sebagai pelengkap infrastruktur, melainkan harus direncanakan dan dikelola dengan baik serta memperhatikan fenomena dinamika perairan laut seperti pola gelombang laut. Data gelombang laut menjadi faktor penting dalam perencanaan tata letak dan tipe bangunan pantai karena dipengaruhi oleh tinggi gelombang signifikan, tunggang pasang surut dan transformasi gelombang. Penelitian ini mengalisis karaketristrik dan bentuk transformasi gelombang untuk perencanaan Pelabuhan Hub Internasional, sebagai studi kasus adalah pelabuhan di Kuala Tanjung, Kabupaten Batu Bara. Pelabuhan di Kuala Tanjung merupakan salah satu dari 2 pelabuhan hub internasional yang direncanakan akan dibangun oleh pemerintah Indonesia. Metode yang digunakan adalah metode kuantitatif yang dilakukan dengan perhitungan statistik dan pemodelan matematik dengan modul hydrodinamic dan spectral wave untuk mengetahui arah penjalaran dan transformasi gelombang. Hasil dari data ECMWF selama 1999–Juni 2014, diketahui tinggi gelombang signifikan (Hs) maksimum mencapai 1,69 m dan periode maksimum 8 detik. Karakteristik gelombang termasuk klasifikasi gelombang laut transisi dengan nilai d.L-1 berkisar anrata 0,27–0,48 dan berdasarkan periodenya diklasifikasikan sebagai gelombang gravitasi.Transformasi gelombang terjadi akibat pendangkalan dengan koefesian pendangkalan Ks 0,93–0,98 dan proses refraksi gelombang dengan koefesien Kr 0,97–0,99. Tinggi gelombang pecah Hb sebesar 1,24 meter dengan kedalaman gelombang pecah db sebesar 1,82 meter. Efektifitas desain bangunan terminal di Pelabuhan Kuala Tanjung secara keseluruhan untuk sepanjang musim sebesar 79,8% atau dapat dikatakan cukup efektif dalam meredam gelombang. Kata kunci: transformasi gelombang, tinggi dan periode gelombang, pelabuhan Indonesia is one of the largest archipelagic countries in the world, therefore port has vital role in economic development. Port is not just as a complement to the infrastructure, but it must be planned and managed properly and attention to the dynamics of marine phenomena such as ocean wave patterns. Ocean wave data become important factors in planning coastal building, since it is influenced by wave height, tides and waves transformation. The purpose of this study was to analyse characteristic and forms wave transformations for planning of international hub port at Kuala Tanjung, Baru Bara District North Sumatra. This port is one of two Indonesian government's plan in the development of international hub port. Quantitative method was used in this study by statistical calculations and mathematical modeling with hydrodinamic modules and spectral wave to determine the direction of wave propagation and transformation. Results show that based on ECMWF data during 1999-June 2014, known significant wave height (Hs) maximum of 1.69 m and maximum period (Ts) of 8 secs. The classification wave characteristics iswave transition (d.L-1: 0.27–0.48) and by the period are classified as gravitational waves. Wave transformation occurs due to the soaling, withKs 0.93–0.98 and the wave refraction Kr 0.97–0.99. Whereas Hb of 1.24 meters anddb 1.82 meters. The effectiveness of the design of the terminal building at the Port of Kuala Tanjung overall for the season amounted to 79.8%, which is quite effective in reducing the wave. Keywords: wave transformation, wave height and period, Port of Kuala Tanjung

scholarly journals Shear wave refraction technique for hazard studies

2012 ◽  
Author(s):  
J Hunter ◽  
H Crow ◽  
J Schmok
Keyword(s):  
Shear Wave ◽  
Wave Refraction

scholarly journals MORFOLOGÍA Y SEDIMENTOS DE LA PLAYA Y PLATAFORMA DE LA BAHÍA SAN LUCAS, BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MÉXICO

2009 ◽  
Vol 24 (1) ◽  
pp. 1
Author(s):  
J. O. Navarro Lozano ◽  
E. H. Nava Sánchez ◽  
L. Godinez-Orta ◽  
J. Murillo-Jimenez
Keyword(s):  
Baja California ◽  
Submarine Canyon ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Baja California Sur ◽  
Seafloor Topography ◽  
Sediment Distribution ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Portion Control ◽  
The Pacific ◽  
El Sistema

Bahía San Lucas está localizada en la punta sur de la Península de Baja California, por lo que recibe el oleaje de alta energía del Océano Pacífico. El análisis morfológico y sedimentológico del litoral y del fondo marino de la Bahía San Lucas, a partir del levantamiento batimétrico y del análisis de los parámetros texturales del sedimento permitió conocer la relación que existe entre las geoformas y el comportamiento sedimentológico. La morfología y orientación de las puntas que protegen a la bahía, así como la presencia temporal del abanico-delta El Salto en la porción central de la misma, condicionan los procesos de refracción y difracción del olaje. Así, el litoral de la bahía se puede dividir en dos zonas, en donde los procesos energéticos del oleaje y agente transportante son diferentes entre ellas y determinan la morfología y distribución de sedimentos en el sistema playero. El relieve del fondo marino de la bahía está dominado por la presencia del cañón submarino San Lucas, cuya cabecera se proxima hasta el pie de la playa, en la zona más interna de la bahía. Dicho cañón condiciona el desarrollo de la plataforma, la cual es de sólo 1.5 km de ancho, con profundidad máxima de 50 m. La poca profundidad de la plataforma, que permite que el oleaje interactúe con el fondo, así como la presencia del cañón submarino, condicionan la distribución de sedimentos del fondo marino de la bahía. Morphology and sediments of the beach and shelf of the Bahía San Lucas, Baja California Sur, México Bahía San Lucas is located at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula, thus it receives high energy waves from the Pacific Ocean. The morphology of the coastline and marine bottom of the bay was interpreted based on a bathymetric survey and beach profiles, while the characteristics of the sediments were obtained through a textural analysis. Both, morphology and sedimentology allowed us to know the relationship between landforms and the sedimentological behavior. The geometry and orientation of the limiting points of the bay and the temporary presence of the fan-delta El Salto in the central portion, control the processes of wave refraction and diffraction. Thus, the coastline of the bay can be divided into two areas, where the wave energy processes and the transporting agent are different from each other and determine the morphology and sediment distribution of the beach. Seafloor topography of the bay is dominated by the presence of the San Lucas submarine canyon, whose head is just at the foot of he beach, in the innermost area of the bay. This canyon controls the development of the peninsular shelf, which is only 1.5 km wide with a maximum depth of 50m. This shallow depth of the shelf, which allows the waves interact with seabed, and the presence of the submarine canyon are the responsible for the distribution of sediments in the seabed of the bay.

scholarly journals Effects of waves and currents on the siltation problem of Damietta harbour, Nile Delta coast, Egypt

2007 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 33 ◽  
Author(s):  
ABO BAKER.I. ABO ZED
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Nile Delta ◽  
Monitoring Program ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
The North ◽  
Dynamic Factors ◽  
Navigation Channel ◽  
Nile Delta Coast

This study evaluates the effect of prevailing dynamic factors on the sedimentation process in Damietta Harbour along the Nile delta coast of Egypt. The monitoring program spanned the period between 1978 and 1999 and included measurements of waves, currents and bathymetric profiles. The evaluation was based on determination of erosion and accretion rates, current regime, sediment transport, wave characteristics and wave refraction. Results revealed that the predominant wave direction from N-NW sector (86 %) throughout the year is responsible for generation of a longshore eastward current. Less frequent waves from the N-NE sector generate an opposing longshore westward current. The refraction pattern for the prevailing wave direction indicates that the harbour and its navigation channel are located within a divergence of wave orthogonal and in an accretion sediment sink area. The annual net rate of littoral drift on the western side of the harbour is about 1.43 * 105 m3 (accretion), while the annual net rate of littoral drift on the eastern side is about 2.54 * 105 m3 (erosion). Currents fluctuate tremendously in speed and direction, especially during the winter months. Hence, sediment transport takes place in offshore, eastward, and onshore directions. Progressive vector diagrams show that the largest near bottom offshore, onshore and easterly net drift occurs during summer, spring and winter respectively. The onshore sediment transport generated during spring and summer plays an important role in the redistribution of eroded sediments during the winter. The overall study of dynamic factors indicated that the harbour site is characterized by eastern, western, offshore and onshore sediment movements. Therefore, the north-south orientation of the navigation channel, with its depth greater than the surrounding area, interrupts sediment drift from different directions and reduces the current speed. Consequently, the sediments sink within the navigation channel from different directions. The sources of sediments contributing to the siltation process of the harbour and its navigation channels are mainly derived from the Rosetta promontory, Burullus beaches, Damietta promontory and from offshore and the dumping area.

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