scholarly journals Wave Transformation for International Hub Port Planning (Transformasi Gelombang untuk Perencanaan Pelabuhan Hub Internasional)

2015 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
pp. 9
Author(s):  
Denny Nugroho Sugianto ◽  
Purwanto Purwanto ◽  
Andika B Candra
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Vital Role ◽  
Ocean Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Maximum Period ◽  
Wave Patterns ◽  
Port Planning ◽  
North Sumatra

Indonesia merupakan salah satu negara kepulauan terbesar di dunia sehingga peran pelabuhan sangat vital dalam pembangunan ekonomi. Pelabuhan bukan hanya sekedar sebagai pelengkap infrastruktur, melainkan harus direncanakan dan dikelola dengan baik serta memperhatikan fenomena dinamika perairan laut seperti pola gelombang laut. Data gelombang laut menjadi faktor penting dalam perencanaan tata letak dan tipe bangunan pantai karena dipengaruhi oleh tinggi gelombang signifikan, tunggang pasang surut dan transformasi gelombang. Penelitian ini mengalisis karaketristrik dan bentuk transformasi gelombang untuk perencanaan Pelabuhan Hub Internasional, sebagai studi kasus adalah pelabuhan di Kuala Tanjung, Kabupaten Batu Bara. Pelabuhan di Kuala Tanjung merupakan salah satu dari 2 pelabuhan hub internasional yang direncanakan akan dibangun oleh pemerintah Indonesia. Metode yang digunakan adalah metode kuantitatif yang dilakukan dengan perhitungan statistik dan pemodelan matematik dengan modul hydrodinamic dan spectral wave untuk mengetahui arah penjalaran dan transformasi gelombang. Hasil dari data ECMWF selama 1999–Juni 2014, diketahui tinggi gelombang signifikan (Hs) maksimum mencapai 1,69 m dan periode maksimum 8 detik. Karakteristik gelombang termasuk klasifikasi gelombang laut transisi dengan nilai d.L-1 berkisar anrata 0,27–0,48 dan berdasarkan periodenya diklasifikasikan sebagai gelombang gravitasi.Transformasi gelombang terjadi akibat pendangkalan dengan koefesian pendangkalan Ks 0,93–0,98 dan proses refraksi gelombang dengan koefesien Kr 0,97–0,99. Tinggi gelombang pecah Hb sebesar 1,24 meter dengan kedalaman gelombang pecah db sebesar 1,82 meter. Efektifitas desain bangunan terminal di Pelabuhan Kuala Tanjung secara keseluruhan untuk sepanjang musim sebesar 79,8% atau dapat dikatakan cukup efektif dalam meredam gelombang. Kata kunci: transformasi gelombang, tinggi dan periode gelombang, pelabuhan Indonesia is one of the largest archipelagic countries in the world, therefore port has vital role in economic development. Port is not just as a complement to the infrastructure, but it must be planned and managed properly and attention to the dynamics of marine phenomena such as ocean wave patterns. Ocean wave data become important factors in planning coastal building, since it is influenced by wave height, tides and waves transformation. The purpose of this study was to analyse characteristic and forms wave transformations for planning of international hub port at Kuala Tanjung, Baru Bara District North Sumatra. This port is one of two Indonesian government's plan in the development of international hub port. Quantitative method was used in this study by statistical calculations and mathematical modeling with hydrodinamic modules and spectral wave to determine the direction of wave propagation and transformation. Results show that based on ECMWF data during 1999-June 2014, known significant wave height (Hs) maximum of 1.69 m and maximum period (Ts) of 8 secs. The classification wave characteristics iswave transition (d.L-1: 0.27–0.48) and by the period are classified as gravitational waves. Wave transformation occurs due to the soaling, withKs 0.93–0.98 and the wave refraction Kr 0.97–0.99. Whereas Hb of 1.24 meters anddb 1.82 meters. The effectiveness of the design of the terminal building at the Port of Kuala Tanjung overall for the season amounted to 79.8%, which is quite effective in reducing the wave. Keywords: wave transformation, wave height and period, Port of Kuala Tanjung

scholarly journals FIELD STUDY OF BREAKING WAVE CHARACTERISTICS

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 27
Author(s):  
Lee L. Weishar ◽  
Robert J. Byrne
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surface Profile ◽  
Free Fall ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Average Value ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Significant Difference ◽  
Height Prediction

This study focuses upon four elements of breaking wave behavior: 1) Relative breaking depth criteria 2) Breaking wave classification 3) Evaluation of the plunge distance 4) Breaking wave height prediction The data set is 116 waves filmed at Virginia Beach, Va., on the Atlantic U.S. coast. The cine-photographic observation technique permitted the viewer to freeze the free surface profile at successive time steps as the waves passed an upright plane grid placed perpendicular to the beach. The results indicate that: 1) While the average value of %/d^ - 0.78, there was a significant difference between plunging and nonplunging waves. 2) Neither the breaker classification of Galvin nor that of Battjes successfully discriminated between plunging and spilling breakers. 3) The distance travelled by the foreface of a plunging wave was found to be underestimated by the free fall trajectory model advanced by Galvin. The field observations show the weakness to be in the plunge time arising from neglect of the vertical velocity component. 4) The breaking wave height prediction formulation advanced by Komar and Gaughan adequately predicts the breaking wave height within the constraints of calculating deep water wave characteristics, neglecting wave refraction and frictional effects. The combined data set covers the breaker wave height between laboratory scale observations to greater than 3 m.

Prediction of Ocean Wave Height Suitable for Ship Autopilot

2021 ◽  
pp. 1-10
Author(s):  
Ranran Lou ◽  
Wen Wang ◽  
Xinfang Li ◽  
Yuchao Zheng ◽  
Zhihan Lv
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Ocean Wave ◽  
Ship Autopilot

Distribution of Wave Impact Forces From Breaking and Non-Breaking Waves

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anne M. Fullerton ◽  
Thomas C. Fu ◽  
Edward S. Ammeen
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Qualitative Assessment ◽  
Total Force ◽  
Impact Loads ◽  
Wave Impact ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Wide Range

Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are highly complex and may involve wave breaking, making these changes difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of forces and pressures measured from breaking and non-breaking waves, with no clear trend between wave characteristics and the localized forces and pressures that they generate. In 2008, a canonical breaking wave impact data set was obtained at the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division, by measuring the distribution of impact pressures of incident non-breaking and breaking waves on one face of a cube. The effects of wave height, wavelength, face orientation, face angle, and submergence depth were investigated. A limited number of runs were made at low forward speeds, ranging from about 0.5 to 2 knots (0.26 to 1.03 m/s). The measurement cube was outfitted with a removable instrumented plate measuring 1 ft2 (0.09 m2), and the wave heights tested ranged from 8–14 inches (20.3 to 35.6 cm). The instrumented plate had 9 slam panels of varying sizes made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and 11 pressure gages; this data was collected at 5 kHz to capture the dynamic response of the gages and panels and fully resolve the shapes of the impacts. A Kistler gage was used to measure the total force averaged over the cube face. A bottom mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was used to obtain measurements of velocity through the water column to provide incoming velocity boundary conditions. A Light Detecting and Ranging (LiDAR) system was also used above the basin to obtain a surface mapping of the free surface over a distance of approximately 15 feet (4.6 m). Additional point measurements of the free surface were made using acoustic distance sensors. Standard and high-speed video cameras were used to capture a qualitative assessment of the impacts. Impact loads on the plate tend to increase with wave height, as well as with plate inclination toward incoming waves. Further trends of the pressures and forces with wave characteristics, cube orientation, draft and face angle are investigated and presented in this paper, and are also compared with previous test results.

Two tests of real-time ocean wave-height mapping with HF skywave radar

1986 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 180-186 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Maresca ◽  
T. Georges ◽  
C. Carlson ◽  
J. Riley
Keyword(s):  
Real Time ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Ocean Wave

scholarly journals The Characteristics of West Season Wind and Wave as well as Their Impacts on Ferry Cruise in The Kalianget-Kangean Cruise Route, Madura, Indonesia

2021 ◽  
Vol 29 (3) ◽  
Author(s):  
Viv Djanat Prasita ◽  
Lukman Aulia Zati ◽  
Supriyatno Widagdo
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
The West ◽  
Wind Speeds ◽  
Wave Patterns ◽  
Time Stamps ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Two Peaks ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Descriptive Statistical Analysis

The wind and wave conditions in the waters of the Kalianget-Kangean cruise route in the west season are relatively high so that these winds and waves can have a dangerous impact on that cruise route. The aim of this research was to analyze the characteristics of wind speed and wave height over a 10 year period (2008-2017), as well as to evaluate the weekly patterns for three months (December 2017-February 2018). These time stamps represent the west season in waters at Kalianget-Kangean route, and to identify the impact of winds and wave on this path. The method used in this research is descriptive statistical analysis to obtain the mean and maximum values ​​of wind speed and wave height. Wind and wave patterns were analyzed by WRPlot and continued with mapping of wind and wave patterns in the waters of Kalianget-Kangean and its surroundings. The data used was obtained from the Meteorology, Climatology and Geophysics Agency. The results show wind and wave characteristics with two peaks formed regularly between 2008-2017, marking the west and east monsoons. In addition, the wind speed and wave height were generally below the danger threshold, ie <10 knots and <2 m, respectively. However, there are exceptions in the west season, especially at the peak in January, where the forces are strengthened with a steady blowing direction. The maximum wind speed reaches and wave height reaches 29 knots and 6.7 m, respectively. The weekly conditions for both parameters from December 2017 to February 2018 were relatively safe, for sailing. Moreover, January 23-29, 2018 featured extreme conditions estimated as dangerous for cruise due to the respective maximum values of 25 knots and 3.8 m recorded. The channel is comparably safe, except during the western season time in December, January, February, characterized by wind speeds and wave height exceeding 21 knots and 2.5 m, correspondingly.

scholarly journals Wave transformation around breakwater (case study: tourism harbour, Eastern Bali, Indonesia)

2021 ◽  
Vol 894 (1) ◽  
pp. 012028
Author(s):  
M N Arsyad ◽  
O Setyandito ◽  
L M Kesuma ◽  
H D Armono ◽  
M Anda ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Condition ◽  
The Past ◽  
Design Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Modeling ◽  
Before And After ◽  
Modeling Software

Abstract An essential aspect in the sustainable design of breakwater is the determination of the design wave condition. It is predicted by utilizing severe wave conditions of the past 10 to 20 years. The tourism harbor at eastern Bali, Indonesia, is located where extreme wave condition occurs. Therefore, this research studies the wave height before and after constructing a breakwater in the harbor area. The wave height was simulated using numerical modeling. The methodology was performed by using the coastal modeling software of the SMS-CGWAVE model. The result shows the highest design wave height value of 3.9 m in the direction from the southeast. The design breakwater can reduce wave height up to 0.9 m or a 75.5% reduction. Further study is needed to simulate the extension of breakwater length to meet the criterion design of wave height in the harbor basin.

scholarly journals Nearshore Wave Transformation Domains from Video Imagery

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (6) ◽  
pp. 186 ◽  
Author(s):  
Umberto Andriolo
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Intensity Variation ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Physical Processes ◽  
Pixel Intensity ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Different Types ◽  
Propagation Properties ◽  
Wave Properties

Within the nearshore area, three wave transformation domains can be distinguished based on the wave properties: shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The identification of these distinct areas is relevant for understanding nearshore wave propagation properties and physical processes, as these zones can be related, for instance, to different types of sediment transport. This work presents a technique to automatically retrieve the nearshore wave transformation domains from images taken by coastal video monitoring stations. The technique exploits the pixel intensity variation of image acquisitions, and relates the pixel properties to the distinct wave characteristics. This allows the automated description of spatial and temporal extent of shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The methodology was proven to be robust, and capable of spotting the three distinct zones within the nearshore, both cross-shore and along-shore dimensions. The method can support a wide range of coastal studies, such as nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport. It can also allow a faster and improved application of existing video-based techniques for wave breaking height and depth-inversion, among others.

Numerical Simulation of Engineering Wave for Zhongzui Bay

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xiejun Shu ◽  
Senhui Jiang ◽  
Ruijie Li
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulation ◽  
Water Level ◽  
Simulation Method ◽  
High Water ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Return Periods ◽  
Engineering Construction ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
High Water Level ◽  
Mild Slope Equation

For providing a better shelter condition, it is necessary to build a breakwater in Zhongzui Bay. In order to know whether mooring area meets the requirement after engineering construction and compare the mooring area between solid breakwater and permeable breakwater, a numerical simulation method is used in the sheltering harbor of Zhongzui Bay. The used Mild-slope equation which describes wave refraction, diffraction and reflection, considers the steep slope bottom and effect of energy dissipation. It has been validated to fit for simulating wave transformation in the coastal zone. Under extreme high water level and design high water level, wave fields in the calculation area of three wave types in three different return periods are simulated by using this method respectively. In addition, wave height in front of breakwater can be provided. Then the wave parameters and the mooring area of two occasions, with and without breakwater, are gained in calculation area. Based on these results, some conclusions are presented in the end.

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