Wave-Height Dissipation and Undertow of Spilling Breakers over Beaches of Varying Slopes

2019 ◽  
Vol 145 (5) ◽  
pp. 04019016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Athanassios A. Dimas ◽  
Theofano I. Koutrouveli
Author(s):  
Athanassios A. Dimas

The effect of surface tension on the evolution of weak spilling breakers is studied by performing large-wave simulations (LWS) of the free-surface flow developing by the interaction of a gravity free-surface wave and a surface shear-layer current. The flow models the evolution of gravity waves under the influence of wind shear. The surface tension modifies the dynamic free-surface condition and its effect depends on the dimensionless Weber number. The Euler equations are filtered according to the LWS formulation and solved numerically by a spectral method and a fractional-time-step scheme. The results indicate a stronger surface tension effect with decreasing Weber number values and increasing initial wave height. Specifically, decreasing the Weber number alters the size and shape of the characteristic bulge of spilling breakers and the toe position resulting in sharper slopes and angles of the free surface profile. The spiller wave height is reduced with decreasing Weber number.


1970 ◽  
Vol 34 (2) ◽  
pp. 115-122
Author(s):  
Azizur Rahman ◽  
MST Kamrunnaher ◽  
Ashabul Hoque

This theoretical study extends Fuhrboter's work and includes the effects of air bubble entrainment. Result shows that there is a correlation between the sudden reductions of wave height and entrained of air bubbles into the water. Moreover, the study reveals that air entrainment occurs very short way in plunging breakers comparatively to spilling breakers. Key words: Fuhrboter's studies; Wave height; Theoretical study DOI: 10.3329/jbas.v34i2.6855Journal of Bangladesh Academy of Sciences, Vol. 34, No. 2, 115-122, 2010


By accurate calculation it is found that the speed F of a solitary wave, as well as its mass, momentum and energy, attains a maximum value corresponding to a wave of less than the maximum amplitude. Hence for a given wave speed F there can exist, when F is near its maximum, two quite distinct solitary waves. The calculation is made possible, first, by the proof in an earlier paper (I) of some exact relations between the momentum and potential energy, which enable the coefficients in certain series to be checked and extended to a high order; secondly, by the introduction of a new parameter ω (related to the particle velocity at the wave crest) whose range is exactly known; and thirdly by the discovery that the series for the mass M and potential energy V in powers of ω can be accurately summed by Padé approximants. From these, the values of F and of the wave height є are determined accurately through the exact relations 3 V = ( F 2 - 1) M and 2 є = ( ω + F 2 - 1). The maximum wave height, as determined in this way, is є max = 0.827, in good agreement with the values found by Yamada (1957) and Lenau (1966), using completely different methods. The speed of the limiting wave is F = 1.286. The maximum wave speed, however, is F max = 1.294, which corresponds to є =0.790. The relation between є and F is compared to the laboratory observations made by Daily & Stephan (1952), with reasonable agreement. An important application of our results is to the understanding of how waves break in shallow water. The discovery that the highest solitary wave is not the most energetic helps to explain the qualitative difference between plunging and spilling breakers, and to account for the marked intermittency which is characteristic of spilling breakers.


2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.


Author(s):  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinsky ◽  
...  

Based on numerical modelling evolution of beach under waves with height 1,0-1,5 m and period 7,5 and 10,6 sec as well as spectral wave parameters varying cross-shore analysed. The beach reformation of coastal zone relief is spatially uneven. It is established that upper part of underwater beach profile become terraced and width of the terrace is in direct pro-portion to wave height and period on the seaward boundary but inversely to angle of wave energy spreading. In addition it was ascertain that the greatest transfiguration of profile was accompanied by existence of bound infragravity waves, smaller part of its energy and shorter mean wave period as well as more significant roller energy.


1992 ◽  
Vol 25 (9) ◽  
pp. 211-216
Author(s):  
A. Akyarli ◽  
Y. Arisoy

As the wave forces are the function of the wave height, period and the angle between the incoming wave direction and the axis of the discharge pipeline, the resultant wave force is directly related to the alignment of the pipeline. In this paper, a method is explained to determine an optimum pipeline route for which the resultant wave force becomes minimum and hence, the cost of the constructive measures may decrease. Also, the application of this method is submitted through a case study.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document