Experimental Results of Wave Transformation Across a Sloping Beach

1995 ◽  
Author(s):  
Constantine D. Memos
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Results ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Sloping Beach

Simulation of Water Wave Transformation Using Higher Order Mild-Slope Equation

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Ta-Yuan Lin ◽  
Kuan-Yu Hsiao ◽  
Shiao-Yin Chen
Keyword(s):  
Multiple Scale ◽  
Higher Order ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Radiation Boundary Conditions ◽  
Depth Function ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Scale Perturbation ◽  
Radiation Boundary ◽  
Wave Nonlinearity ◽  
Sloping Beach

A higher-order mild-slope equation (HOMSE) was developed using classical Galerkin method in which the depth function is expanded to the third-order. Wave nonlinearity and bottom slope parameters are involved in the depth function solved on the bases of the multiple-scale perturbation method. The equation is solved subject to the radiation boundary conditions by means of the procedure of parabolic formulation. Good agreement between numerical results and experimental data has been observed for wave propagation over a submerged obstacle and a sloping beach.

scholarly journals USING THE RASINTERFOAM CFD MODEL FOR WAVE TRANSFORMATION AND COASTAL MODELLING

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 23 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gerald Charles John Morgan ◽  
Jun Zang ◽  
Deborah Greaves ◽  
Andrew Heath ◽  
Chris Whitlow ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Continuum Mechanics ◽  
Experimental Results ◽  
Sensitivity Analyses ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Front Face ◽  
Cfd Model ◽  
Coastal Modelling ◽  
Back Face ◽  
Mesh Density ◽  
Coarse Meshes

The CFD model, rasInterFoam, part of the OpenFOAM library for continuum mechanics, is used to reproduce experimental results for the propagation of monochromatic waves over a submerged bar. The model is shown to reproduce the experimental results very well on the front face and top of the bar, and give adequate results on the back face, even on extremely coarse meshes. Sensitivity analyses are presented for the model results, investigating the dependence on mesh density and discretisation scheme of the model. The modeling of the wave transformations in the model is shown to be broadly insensitive to these parameters within the ranges tested.

scholarly journals TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF A LONG WAVE OF FINITE HEIGHT

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (8) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
Tsutomu Kishi
Keyword(s):  
Approximate Solutions ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Parabolic Profile ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Linear Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Considerable Deformation

On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation. In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief considerations are given to the effects of bottom friction on wave transformation. In § 2, breaking of a long wave is discussed. Breakings on a uniformly sloping beach and on a beach of parabolic profile are considered and the effects of beach profile on breaking are clarified. Finally in § 3, experimental results on wave run-up over l/30 slope are described in comparing with the Kaplan's results.

scholarly journals FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 28 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Gerben Ruessink ◽  
Fabien Marche ◽  
Florent Chazel ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Studies ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Complex Interactions ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Recent field studies over low sloping beaches have shown that infragravity waves could dissipate a significant part of their energy in the inner surf zone. This phenomenon and the associated short- and long-wave transformations are not well-understood. In this paper, we assess the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model introduced in Bonneton et al. (2011) to reproduce short and long wave transformation in a case involving a strong infragravity wave dissipation close to the shoreline. This validation study, based on van Dongeren et al. (2008)’s laboratory experiments, suggests that the model is able to predict infragravity wave breaking as well as the complex interactions between short and long waves in the surf zone.

Numerical Simulation of Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone Over a Steep Bottom

2010 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Ta-Yuan Lin ◽  
Hwung-Hweng Hwung ◽  
Yaron Toledo ◽  
Aron Roland
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Dissipation Factor ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Bottom Slope ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Efficient Scheme ◽  
Sloping Beach

The combined effect of shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a sloping bottom was investigated. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE) which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The evolution equation of the MSE is implemented in the numerical solution which provides an efficient scheme for describing wave transformation in a large coastal area. The model validity is verified by comparison to accurate numerical models, laboratory experiments and analytical solutions of waves travelling over a steep sloping beach.

The Design Limitations of a Circular Wave Pool

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steven A. Schmied ◽  
Jonathan R. Binns ◽  
Martin R. Renilson ◽  
Giles A. Thomas ◽  
Gregor J. Macfarlane ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Wave Structure ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Experimental Results ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Pressure Source ◽  
Signal Tracking ◽  
Wave Disturbances ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Parameter Values

In this paper, the design of a circular wave pool that produces continuously breaking waves is discussed, whereby a pressure source is rotated within an annular wave pool. The concept was that the pressure source generates non-breaking waves that propagate inward to the inner ring of the annulus, where a sloping bathymetry (beach) triggers wave breaking. In order to refine the technique, research was conducted to better understand the mechanics of waves generated by moving pressure sources in a constrained waterway, the transformation of these waves as they travel across the channel and the effect of the sloping beach on the wave quality for surfing. The quality of the waves was defined in terms of wave height, speed and shape, with the aim to create plunging waves, known as “barrels”, that are highly desired by surfers. A predominantly experimental approach was undertaken to determine the required design parameter values and their limitations. Scale model experimental results were previously presented at OMAE 2011 and OMAE2013. This paper presents the steps to design the pool using the empirical analysis and experimental results are presented. The effect of the pressure source and pool bathymetry on the currents formed in the pool, are also presented. Through this design process, high quality continuous breaking waves with the desired plunging shape were able to be generated. Finally, the authors are planning to use the facilities and techniques developed to investigate the complexities of predefined wave fields, including the three dimensional (3D) details of the velocity, pressure and turbulence fields beneath. Understanding these complexities within multidimensional wave patterns is the key to analysing a number of different fields, including wave resistance of ships; wave disturbances to other maritime users; bank erosion; wave signal tracking; and wave structure interaction.

A particle image velocimetry investigation on laboratory surf-zone breaking waves over a sloping beach

2007 ◽  
Vol 588 ◽  
pp. 353-397 ◽  
Author(s):  
O. KIMMOUN ◽  
H. BRANGER
Keyword(s):  
Particle Image Velocimetry ◽  
Velocity Field ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Particle Image ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Time Step ◽  
Complete Space ◽  
Image Velocimetry ◽  
Sloping Beach

Particle image velocimetry (PIV) measurements were performed in a wave tank under water waves propagating and breaking on a 1/15 sloping beach. The wave transformation occurred in the surf zone over a large domain covering several wavelengths from incipient breaking to swash zone beyond the shoreline. PIV spatial interrogation windows must be small enough to obtain accurate velocities, and one window covers only a small part of the domain. To overcome this problem and to measure the instantaneous velocity field over the whole surf zone area, we have split the full field into 14 overlapping smaller windows of the same size. Local measurements were synchronized with each other using pulsed TTL triggers and wave gauge data. The full velocity field was then reconstructed at every time step by gathering the 14 PIV fields. We then measured the complete space–time evolution of the velocity field over the whole surf zone. We determined also the ensemble-period-average and phase-average components of the flow with their associated fluctuating parts. We used the PIV images and velocity measurements to estimate the void fraction in each point of the surf zone. Special attention was given to the calculation of the spatial derivatives in order to obtain relevant information on vorticity and on the physical terms that appear in the fluctuating kinetic energy transport equation.

Wave Transformation and Soil Response Due to Submerged Permeable Breakwater

2006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ching-Piao Tsai ◽  
Hong-Bin Chen ◽  
Dong-Sheng Jeng ◽  
Kuan-Hong Chen
Keyword(s):  
Pore Pressure ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Experimental Results ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Harmonic Mode ◽  
Submerged Breakwater ◽  
Soil Response ◽  
Higher Harmonic ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
The Waves

This study reports the experimental results of the wave transformation and the wave-induced soil response when the waves pass through the submerged permeable breakwater. The model of the submerged breakwater was built on a horizontal sandy bottom. The experimental results of the spectrum of the wave transformation and the wave-induced pore-pressure are first analyzed in this paper. It is found that the wave spectrum is similar to the condition of the impermeable bottom that the higher harmonic mode appears when the waves pass over the submerged structure. However, the higher harmonic mode is not found in the spectrum of the wave-induced pore pressure, showing that the nonlinearity of the pore pressure is damped by the porous bed. The influences of the geometry of the submerged breakwater to the transformation of the wave height and the pore-pressure are also investigated. Based on the experimental results, the regression formulas for the coefficients of the wave reflection, the wave transmission and the wave energy dissipation are obtained in the paper.

scholarly journals A STUDY ON WAVE TRANSFORMATION INSIDE SURF ZONE

1966 ◽  
Vol 1 (10) ◽  
pp. 14 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kiyoshi Horikawa ◽  
Chin-Tong Kuo
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
The Other ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Analytical Treatment ◽  
Numerous Data ◽  
Wave Height Attenuation ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Horizontal Bottom

The wave transformation inside surf zone is treated analytically m this paper under the several appropriate assumptions. The theoretical curves computed numerically have a consistant agreement with the experimental data in the case of wave transformation on a horizontal bottom. On the other hand, m the case of wave transformation on a uniformly sloping beach, the analytical treatment seems to be inadequate to clarify the actual phenomena. Besides them the numerous data on wave height attenuation and others are presented m the graphical forms.

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