Wave Transformation and Cross-Shore Sediment Transport on Sloping Beach in Front of Vertical Wall

2012 ◽  
Vol 280 ◽  
pp. 354-359 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takehisa Saitoh ◽  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Sloping Beach

STEEP STANDING WAVES AGAINST A VERTICAL WALL ON A SLOPING BEACH

2011 ◽  
pp. 1762-1769
Author(s):  
W. KIOKA ◽  
T. KITANO ◽  
M. OKAJIMA ◽  
N. MIYABE
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Standing Waves ◽  
Sloping Beach

scholarly journals Nearshore Wave Transformation Domains from Video Imagery

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (6) ◽  
pp. 186 ◽  
Author(s):  
Umberto Andriolo
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Intensity Variation ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Physical Processes ◽  
Pixel Intensity ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Different Types ◽  
Propagation Properties ◽  
Wave Properties

Within the nearshore area, three wave transformation domains can be distinguished based on the wave properties: shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The identification of these distinct areas is relevant for understanding nearshore wave propagation properties and physical processes, as these zones can be related, for instance, to different types of sediment transport. This work presents a technique to automatically retrieve the nearshore wave transformation domains from images taken by coastal video monitoring stations. The technique exploits the pixel intensity variation of image acquisitions, and relates the pixel properties to the distinct wave characteristics. This allows the automated description of spatial and temporal extent of shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The methodology was proven to be robust, and capable of spotting the three distinct zones within the nearshore, both cross-shore and along-shore dimensions. The method can support a wide range of coastal studies, such as nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport. It can also allow a faster and improved application of existing video-based techniques for wave breaking height and depth-inversion, among others.

Simulation of Water Wave Transformation Using Higher Order Mild-Slope Equation

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Ta-Yuan Lin ◽  
Kuan-Yu Hsiao ◽  
Shiao-Yin Chen
Keyword(s):  
Multiple Scale ◽  
Higher Order ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Radiation Boundary Conditions ◽  
Depth Function ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Scale Perturbation ◽  
Radiation Boundary ◽  
Wave Nonlinearity ◽  
Sloping Beach

A higher-order mild-slope equation (HOMSE) was developed using classical Galerkin method in which the depth function is expanded to the third-order. Wave nonlinearity and bottom slope parameters are involved in the depth function solved on the bases of the multiple-scale perturbation method. The equation is solved subject to the radiation boundary conditions by means of the procedure of parabolic formulation. Good agreement between numerical results and experimental data has been observed for wave propagation over a submerged obstacle and a sloping beach.

scholarly journals Experimental determination of the flood wave transformation and the sediment resuspension in a small regulated stream in an agricultural catchment

2017 ◽  
Vol 21 (11) ◽  
pp. 5681-5691 ◽  
Author(s):  
David Zumr ◽  
Tomáš Dostál ◽  
Jan Devátý ◽  
Petr Valenta ◽  
Pavel Rosendorf ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Initial Conditions ◽  
Sediment Resuspension ◽  
Early Spring ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Flood Wave ◽  
Water Saturated ◽  
Artificial Flood ◽  
Long Channel ◽  
Flood Waves

Abstract. This paper presents the methodology used for artificial flood experiments conducted in a small artificial, trained (regulated) channel on the Nučice experimental agricultural catchment (0.5 km2), central Czech Republic, and the results of the experiments. The aim was to monitor the transformation of the flood wave and the sediment transport within the channel. Two series of experiments were carried out in contrasting initial conditions: (a) in September, when the stream banks were dry, the baseflow was negligible, and the channel was fully overgrown with vegetation; and (b) in March, when the stream banks were almost water saturated, the baseflow was above the annual average, and there was no vegetation present. Within each campaign, three successive flood waves, each with an approximate volume of 17 m3 and peak flow of ca. 40 L s−1, were pumped into the upper part of the catchment drainage channel. The transformation of the flood wave and the sediment transport regime within an approximately 400 m long channel section were monitored by measuring the discharge, the turbidity, and the electrical conductivity in three profiles along the stream. On the basis of the results, it was concluded that there is a considerable amount of deposited sediment, even in the well-trained and straight channel that can be re-mobilized by small floods. Part of the recorded sediment therefore originates from the particles deposited during previous soil erosion events. The flood waves initiated in dissimilar instream conditions progressed differently – we show that the saturation of the channel banks, the stream vegetation and the actual baseflow had a strong influence on the flood transformation and the sediment regime in the channel. The sediment moves quickly in winter and early spring, but in the later part of the year the channel serves as a sediment trap and the resuspension is slower, if dense vegetation is present.

scholarly journals The Method for Evaluating Cross-Shore Migration of Sand Bar under the Influence of Nonlinear Waves Transformation

Water ◽  
2022 ◽  
Vol 14 (2) ◽  
pp. 214
Author(s):  
Margarita Shtremel ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Berna Ayat
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Maximum Amplitude ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Sandy Bottom ◽  
Divergence Point ◽  
Sand Bar ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Second Wave

Sand bar migration on the gently sloping sandy bottom in the coastal zone as a result of nonlinear wave transformation and corresponding sediment transport is discussed. Wave transformation on the intermediate depth causes periodic exchange of energy in space between the first and the second wave harmonics, accompanied by changes in the wave profile asymmetry. This leads to the occurrence of periodical fluctuations in the wave-induced sediment transport. It is shown that the position of the second nonlinear wave harmonic maximum determines location of the divergence point of sediment transport on the inclined bottom profile, where it changes direction from the onshore to the offshore. Such sediment transport pattern leads to formation of an underwater sand bar. A method is proposed to predict the position of the bar on an underwater slope after a storm based on calculation of the position of the maximum amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic. The method is validated on the base of field measurements and ERA 5 reanalysis wave data.

scholarly journals Re-design Breakwater di PPI Tulandale Berdasarkan Analisis Hidrodinamika dan Sedimentasi. (Hal. 30-41)

2019 ◽  
Vol 5 (3) ◽  
pp. 30
Author(s):  
Regina Eugeny Destin Wirawan ◽  
Yessi Nirwana Kurniadi ◽  
Fitri Suciaty
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Neap Tide ◽  
Spring Tide ◽  
Current Speed ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
North East ◽  
South West ◽  
Result Show ◽  
Mike 21

ABSTRAKPangkalan Pendaratan Ikan Tulandale berada di Kabupaten Rote Ndao, Provinsi Nusa Tenggara Timur. Breakwater di PPI Tulandale tidak dapat melindungi kolam pelabuhan dari gelombang tinggi. Tujuan dari penelitian ini adalah re-design breakwater pada PPI Tulandale agar dapat melindungi kolam pelabuhan. Simulasi hidrodinamika, transpor sedimen dan transformasi gelombang dilakukan dengan bantuan perangkat lunak Mike 21 untuk 2 buah skenario. Pada skenario alternatif 1, mulut pelabuhan di perkecil menjadi 50 m dan skenario alternatif 2 pada kondisi breakwater eksisting ditambah bangunan breakwater tegak lurus garis pantai sepanjang 200 m. Simulasi dilakukan selama 15 hari. Hasil analisis pada pemodelan, kondisi arus saat pasang purnama dan perbani bergerak dari arah barat daya kearah timur laut dengan kecepatan 0,00–0,08 m/s untuk alternatif 1, sedangkan kecepatan arus alternatif 2 arus sebesar 0,08–0,16 m/s. Hasil pemodelan hidrodinamika, transpor sedimen dan transformasi gelombang menunjukan bahwa bentuk re-design breakwater pada alternatif 2 efektif untuk melindungi kolam pelabuhan di PPI Tulandale karena dapat mereduksi gelombang sebesar 46,7% dari gelombang diluar kolam pelabuhanKata kunci: re-design breakwater, hidrodinamika, sedimentasi ABSTRACTTulandale Fishing Port Tulandale is located in Rote Ndao district, The province of Nusa Tenggara Timur. The Breakwater in Tulandale Fishing Port could not protect the port basin from the height of waves. The aimed of this study is to re-design breakwater in Tulandale Fishing Port in order to protect the port basin. The Hydrodynamic, sediment transport and waves transformation simulation are applied in this study by using mike 21 software for 2 scenarios. In the first scenario, the port basin width is reduced to 50 m and the second scenario is using the existing breakwater condition with the added breakwater building Perpendicular along the coast line for 200m. The simulation run of 15 days. The result show that the condition during the spring tide and neap tide move from south west to north east with 0.00-0.08 m/s for first scenario, while the current speed for the second scenario is is 0.08-0.16 m/s. Hydrodynamic result, sediment transport and wave transformation model that the shape of re-design breakwater on the second scenario more effective to protect the port basin at The Tuandale Fishing Port because the wave decrease at 46.7% from outside the port basin.Keywords: re-design breakwater, hydrodynamics, sedimentation

Experimental Investigation of Tsunami Bore Forces on Vertical Walls

2013 ◽  
Vol 135 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
I. N. Robertson ◽  
K. Paczkowski ◽  
H. R. Riggs ◽  
A. Mohamed
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Wall ◽  
State University ◽  
Flat Bottom ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Pressure Distributions ◽  
Vertical Walls ◽  
Series Of Experiments ◽  
Maximum Impact Force ◽  
Sloping Beach

A series of experiments have been carried out in the large wave flume (LWF) at Oregon State University to quantify tsunami bore forces on structures. These tests included “offshore” solitary waves, with heights up to 1.3 m, that traveled over a flat bottom, up a sloping beach, and breaking onto a flat reef. Standing water depths on the reef varied from 0.05 m to 0.3 m. Resulting bores on the reef measured up to approximately 0.8 m. After propagating along the reef, the bores struck a vertical wall. The resulting forces and pressures on the wall were measured. The test setup in the LWF is described, and the experimental results are reported. The results include forces and pressure distributions. Results show that the bores propagated with a Froude number of approximately 2 and that the forces follow Froude scaling. Finally, a design formula for the maximum impact force is given. The formula is shown to be an improvement over existing formulas found in the literature.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document