Crest-Height Distribution in Nonlinear Random Wave

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Cuilin Li ◽  
Dingyong Yu ◽  
Yangyang Gao ◽  
Junxian Yang
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Distribution Functions ◽  
Theoretical Distribution ◽  
Distribution Model ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Crest Height

Many empirical and theoretical distribution functions for wave crest heights have been proposed, but there is a lack of agreement. With the development of ocean exploitation, waves crest heights represent a key point in the design of coastal structures, both fixed and floating, for shoreline protection and flood prevention. Waves crest height is the dominant parameter in assessing the likelihood of wave-in-deck impact and its resulting severe damage. Unlike wave heights, wave crests generally appear to be affected by nonlinearities; therefore, linear wave theory could not be satisfied to practical application. It is great significant to estimate a new nonlinear wave crest height distribution model correctly. This paper derives an approximation distribution formula based on Stokes wave theory. The resulting theoretical forms for nonlinear wave crest are compared with observed data and discussed in detail. The results are shown to be in good agreement. Furthermore, the results indicate that the new theoretical distribution has more accurate than other methods presented in this paper (e.g. Rayleigh distribution and Weibull distribution) and appears to have a greater range of applicability.

Wave crest height distribution during the tropical cyclone period

2020 ◽  
Vol 197 ◽  
pp. 106899 ◽  
Author(s):  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
S. Harikrishnan ◽  
Sourav Mandal
Keyword(s):  
Tropical Cyclone ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Crest Height

New Insights in Extreme Crest Height Distributions: A Summary of the ‘CresT’ JIP

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bas Buchner ◽  
George Forristall ◽  
Kevin Ewans ◽  
Marios Christou ◽  
Janou Hennig
Keyword(s):  
Single Point ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Order Theory ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Floating Platforms ◽  
Crest Height

The objective of the CresT JIP was ‘to develop models for realistic extreme waves and a design methodology for the loading and response of floating platforms’. Within this objective the central question was: ‘What is the highest (most critical) wave crest that will be encountered by my platform in its lifetime?’ Based on the presented results for long and short-crested numerical, field and basin results in the paper, it can be concluded that the statistics of long-crested waves are different than those of short-crested waves. But also short-crested waves show a trend to reach crest heights above second order. This is in line with visual observations of the physics involved: crests are sharper than predicted by second order, waves are asymmetric (fronts are steeper) and waves are breaking. Although the development of extreme waves within short-crested sea states still needs further investigation (including the counteracting effect of breaking), at the end of the CresT project the following procedure for taking into account extreme waves in platform design is recommended: 1. For the wave height distribution, use the Forristall distribution (Forristall, 1978). 2. For the crest height distribution, use 2nd order distribution as basis. 3. Both the basin and field measurements show crest heights higher than predicted by second order theory for steeper sea states. It is therefore recommended to apply a correction to the second order distribution based on the basin results. 4. Account for the sampling variability at the tail of the distribution (and resulting remaining possibility of higher crests than given by the corrected second order distribution) in the reliability analysis. 5. Consider the fact that the maximum crest height under a complete platform deck can be considerably higher than the maximum crest at a single point.

Burial and Scour of Short Cylinders and Truncated Cones Due to Long-Crested and Short-Crested Nonlinear Random Waves Plus Currents

2018 ◽  
Vol 140 (3) ◽  
Author(s):  
Muk Chen Ong ◽  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Narrow Band ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Random Waves ◽  
2D And 3D ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Crest Height

This paper provides a practical stochastic method by which the burial and scour depths of short cylinders and truncated cones exposed to long-crested (two-dimensional (2D)) and short-crested (three-dimensional (3D)) nonlinear random waves plus currents can be derived. The approach is based on assuming the waves to be a stationary narrow-band random process, adopting the Forristall second-order wave crest height distribution representing both 2D and 3D nonlinear random waves. Moreover, the formulas for the burial and the scour depths for regular waves plus currents presented by previous published work for short cylinders and truncated cones are used.

scholarly journals HORIZONTAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 19 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuichi Iwagaki ◽  
Tetsuo Sakai
Keyword(s):  
Particle Velocity ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Approximate Expression ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Amplitude Wave ◽  
Water Particle ◽  
Hot Film

This paper firstly describes two methods to measure vertical distribution and time variation of horizontal water particle velocity induced "by surface waves in a wave tank These two methods consist of tracing hydrogen bubbles and using hot film anemometers, respectively Secondly, the experimental results by the two methods are presented with the theoretical curves derived from the small amplitude wave theory, Stokes wave theory of 3rd order, and the hyperbolic wave theory as an approximate expression of the cnoidal wave theory Finally, based on the comparison of the experimental data with the theoretical curves, the applicability of the finite amplitude wave theories, which has been studied for the wave profile, wave velocity, wave length and wave crest height, is discussed from view point of the water particle velocity.

scholarly journals Characteristics of Positive Surges in a Rectangular Channel

Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (10) ◽  
pp. 1473 ◽  
Author(s):  
Feidong Zheng ◽  
Yun Li ◽  
Guoxiang Xuan ◽  
Zhonghua Li ◽  
Long Zhu
Keyword(s):  
Rectangular Channel ◽  
Experimental Studies ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Progressive Increase ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Sudden Increase ◽  
Initial Profile ◽  
Increasing Trend ◽  
Flow Motion

A positive surge is an unsteady open channel flow motion characterized by an increase of flow depth. In previous experimental studies, a positive surge was typically induced by either a sudden increase of discharge in a channel or by the rapid closure of a downstream sluice gate, thus leading to a steep initial profile. However, in many instances, the evolution of a positive surge is of a progressive manner (e.g., in the downstream navigation canal during the emptying operation of lock chambers). In the present work, the inception and development of a positive surge induced by a progressive increase of discharge was investigated in a rectangular channel with a smooth bed. Both undular and breaking surges were studied. The results demonstrate that the maximum wave height at the first wave crest of an undular surge is in very close agreement with the McCowan theory. Additionally, the wave amplitude essentially shows a linearly increasing trend with an increasing surge Froude number up to Fr0 = 1.26 to 1.28, whereas it tends to suggest a power law reduction for larger surge Froude numbers. Moreover, the dispersion of undular surges is consistent with the linear wave theory only for surge Froude numbers close to unity. Overall, the present study demonstrates the unique features of positive surges induced by a progressive increase of discharge.

Investigation of Shallow Water Kinematics and Local Loading Effects on Reliability of Minimum Structures

2001 ◽  
Vol 124 (1) ◽  
pp. 41-47
Author(s):  
Suhartodjo Tuty ◽  
Mark J. Cassidy ◽  
Beverley F. Ronalds
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Stream Function ◽  
Function Theory ◽  
Strong Relationship ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
North West ◽  
Wave Kinematics ◽  
The North

In shallow water, and specifically for minimum structures, the critical wave height exponent α has been shown to vary significantly with structural configuration. Because of the strong relationship to the wave kinematics, α is also sensitive to the wave theory chosen. The North West Shelf offshore Australia has numerous minimum structures located in relatively shallow water, which requires non-linear wave theory. In the near-breaking condition, estimation of the wave crest kinematics is difficult, with Stream Function theory being the most widely used. However, various other wave theories and nonlinear numerical techniques have been developed to predict wave kinematics for shallow water conditions. The following wave theories are compared: regular Stream Function theory, Cnoidal wave theory, Stokes’ theory, NewWave theory, and a second-order correction to NewWave theory. Kinematics, loads and α results are presented for a cylinder in three different water depths.

Conditional Short-Crested Waves in Shallow Water and With Superimposed Current

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jo̸rgen Juncher Jensen
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Offshore Structures ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Drilling Rigs

For bottom-supported offshore structures like oil drilling rigs and oil production platforms, a deterministic design wave approach is often applied using a regular non-linear Stokes’ wave. Thereby, the procedure accounts for non-linear effects in the wave loading but the randomness of the ocean waves is poorly represented, as the shape of the wave spectrum does not enter the wave kinematics. To overcome this problem and still keep the simplicity of a deterministic approach, Tromans, Anaturk and Hagemeijer (1991) suggested the use of a deterministic wave, defined as the expected linear Airy wave, given the value of the wave crest at a specific point in time or space. In the present paper a derivation of the expected linear short-crested wave riding on a uniform current is given. The analysis is based on the conventional shallow water Airy wave theory and the direction of the main wind direction can make any direction with the current. A consistent derivation of the wave spectrum taking into account current and finite water depth is used. The numerical results show a significant effect of the water depth, the directional spreading and the current on the conditional mean wave profile. Extensions to higher order waves are finally discussed.

Wave-in-Deck Impact Load Measurements on a Fixed Platform Deck

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jule Scharnke ◽  
Tone Vestbøstad ◽  
Jaap de Wilde ◽  
Sverre Haver
Keyword(s):  
North Sea ◽  
Impact Load ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Model Tests ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Impact Loads ◽  
Load Prediction ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Efficient Test ◽  
Crest Height

New methods for estimation of extreme wave crest heights have resulted in an increase of the estimated 10,000 year crest height. At the Norwegian Continental Shelf this increase is typically 2 to 4 m, resulting in a crest height of 22 m to 24 m in the Central & Northern North Sea and the Haltenbanken area. As a result several fixed platforms designed prior to 2000 may experience negative air gap if being hit by the 10,000 year wave crest height. Numerical methods have been used for assessing wave-in-deck impact loads. The model tests discussed in this paper were conducted to be used as verification of the numerical codes. For the model tests two sea states along the 10,000 year contour line were considered. Several 3-hour (full scale time) realizations were calibrated in order to capture the natural variability of the most extreme crest heights. For wave deck impact problems, one is merely interested in the few very large wave crests out of a 3-hour simulation. A more efficient test scope would, therefore, be to generate only the largest wave groups of the realizations. For this reason the most extreme crest(s) per sea state were identified and most wave-in-deck tests were conducted by generating only the part of the time series containing the large crest(s). The wave calibration results were discussed in a previous paper, see [1]. For the wave-in-deck model tests, an existing North Sea jacket was built at scale 1:60 and instrumented in order to measure the global loads on the platform deck independently from the loads on the jacket itself. In this paper the model test setup as well as the measured wave-in-deck impact loads are discussed and compared to a simplified load prediction model. The presented results show that the simplified loading model, with wave properties based on Stokes 5th order wave theory, underestimates the measured horizontal deck loads.

In-Line Forces on Vertical Cylinders in Deepwater Waves

1985 ◽  
Vol 107 (1) ◽  
pp. 18-23
Author(s):  
T. H. Dawson
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Morison Equation ◽  
Circular Particle ◽  
Wave Cycle

Laboratory measurements of the total in-line forces on a fixed vertical 2-in-dia cylinder in deep-water regular and random waves are given and compared with predictions from the Morison equation. Results show, for regular waves with heights ranging from 2 to 22 in. and frequencies ranging from 0.4 to 0.9 Hz that the Morison equation, with Stokes wave theory and constant drag and inertia coefficients of 1.2 and 1.8, respectively, provides good agreement with the measured maximum wave forces. The force variation over the entire wave cycle is also well represented. The linearized Morison equation, with linear wave theory and the same coefficients likewise provides close agreement with the measured rms wave forces for irregular random waves having approximate Bretschneider spectra and significant wave heights from 5 to 14 in. The success of the constant-coefficient approximation is attributed to a decreased dependence of the coefficients on dimensionless flow parameters as a result of the circular particle motions and large kinematic gradients of the deep-water waves.

scholarly journals COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 42
Author(s):  
Thomas A. Hardy ◽  
Nicholas C. Kraus
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Refraction ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Wave Mode ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Cnoidal Wave

An efficient numerical model is presented for calculating the refraction and shoaling of finite-amplitude waves over an irregular sea bottom. The model uses third-order Stokes wave theory in relatively deep water and second-order cnoidal wave theory in relatively shallow water. It can also be run using combinations of lower-order wave theories, including a pure linear wave mode. The problem of the connection of Stokes and cnoidal theories is investigated, and it is found that the use of second-order rather than first-order cnoidal theory greatly reduces the connection discontinuity. Calculations are compared with physical model measurements of the height and direction of waves passing over an elliptical shoal. The finite-amplitude wave model gives better qualitative and quantitative agreement with the measurements than the linear model.

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