Large Scale Experimental Storm Impact on Nourished Beach Using Cobble-Gravel-Sand Mix

2015 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jannette B. Frandsen ◽  
Régis Xhardé ◽  
Francis Bérubé ◽  
Olivier Gauvin Tremblay
Keyword(s):  
Grain Size ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Initial Slope ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Quebec City ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Wave Impact ◽  
Sediment Grain Size ◽  
Sand Mixture

We have investigated beach stability against storm waves. The studies are done in relation to eroded beaches. We are testing a cobble-sand-gravel mixture as a means of using a soft method for coastal protection on nourished beaches. A physical model of an existing beach was built at scale 1:3. The cobble/sand grain size is in 1:3 scale while the gravel is 1:1.5 scale. The large scale experimental flume tests have been set-up in the new outdoor 120 m long flume in Québec city, Canada. The tests were conducted over two test seasons (2013–14). While we in the first test season studied impact on the beach due to incoming regular plunging breakers, the last season contained tests with incoming irregular plunging breakers on the beach with/without tidal variation. Herein, we primarily report on the wave impact due to irregular plunging breakers on constant and tidal varying water depths. The wave-tide interactions were conducted with a tidal range of 1 m in relation to beaches with steep beach slopes (1:10, 1:5, 1:1). The model inlet significant wave height was 1.1–1.5 m corresponding to equivalent prototype waves in the range of max. wave heights of 6–8.5 m with dominant periods of 12 s in water depth of about 15 m and tidal range of 3 m. In general, the Equilibrium Beach Profile (EBP) was reached after exposure to about 10,000 plunging breakers or the equivalent of five storms assuming each lasting 3 hours. A cobble berm was formed rapidly on the top of the beach, protecting the backshore against wave action and flooding while finer sediment was transported “offshore”. Beach width reduction was observed when the initial slope of the beach fill material exceeded the equilibrium beach slope. Sediment grain size sorting along the beach profile is discussed and compared to existing beach models, and EBP was compared to several EBP equations. From a coastal management perspective, in terms of durability, the mixed cobble-sand-gravel material is showing promise as a material to use for coastal protection. It is highly absorbent and the beach tends to maintain its shape over long time when exposed to several storms. However, storm surges in the combination with high tides can results in excessive run-up and potential flood risks. The stabilized beach typically had slopes of 1:7–1:9 independent of the initial slope. We found that irregular seas result in a less pronounced trough in the beach profile in the swash zone than incoming regular plunging breakers. The tidal interaction was further advantageous, naturally shifting the material back and forth. However, other materials and other sensitivity studies are necessary in order to provide firm conclusions about the usage of the cobble-gravel-sand mixture for coastal protection.

The intertidal sanding up of the Seine-Maritime coast (Normandy, France): Sedimentological and geochemical approaches.

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bastien Peuziat ◽  
Stéphane Costa ◽  
Bernadette Tessier ◽  
Anne Murat ◽  
Gwendoline Gregoire
Keyword(s):  
Grain Size ◽  
Chemical Elements ◽  
Statistical Processing ◽  
Fluorescence Analysis ◽  
Coarse Grained ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Geochemical Data ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Geochemical Parameters

<p>The Seine-Maritime coastline (France) is a macro-tidal environment (8 m tidal range), developing along an epicontinental sea, the English Channel. The SW-NE coast is opened to westerly atmospheric flows, generating occasionally wind sea with energetic waves (Hs: 4.65 m decennial return). High chalk cliffs and a wide marine erosion platform partially hidden on its upper part by a flint pebble beach, characterise this 130 km long coast.</p><p>Observations since the end of the 1990’s show a recent and massive sanding up of the marine erosion platform. This raises the question of the origin of the sandy fraction and the sedimentary dynamics on the intertidal area.</p><p>We present herein an innovative method that combine grain-size and geochemical analysis in order to highlight sand sources and transport direction along these rocky coast.</p><p>Sixteen beaches were sampled during low tide and fair-weather conditions. At each site, 3 samples were collected along the cross-shore beach profile (from the pebbly upper beach to the low tide limit).</p><p>Grain-size results show that for all sites, medium to coarse-grained sands dominate in the upper beach (mode 315-400µm) while fine sands dominate in the middle and low foreshore (mode 160-250µm). A decrease in grain-size is thus evidenced from the upper beach to the low foreshore.</p><p>The geographical variability of the sand composition and consequently sources was determined on the basis of geochemical data. In order to avoid the granulometric effect on the data, X-Ray fluorescence analysis (xSORT, SPECTRO AMETEK) were performed on the two major grain-size modes of each sample. Eighteen calibrated chemical elements (Si, S, K, Ca, Ti, V, Mn, Fe, Ni, Ga, As, Br, Rb, Sr, Y, Pb, Th and U) were measured at each station. Statistical processing performed step by step on the data allows to gradually reduce the number of significant geochemical parameters. Finally, 4 major elements (Si, Ca, Sr, K) as well as the ratio Sr/Ca have been considered as the best proxies of sample discrimination and potential source.</p><p>The first results indicate a longshore gradient of Si and Ca, especially for the finest sands (160-200µm). From SW to NE, i.e. in the direction of the littoral drift, and whatever the position across the beach profile, there are an enrichment in Si (sands are more siliciclastic) and an impoverishment in Ca.</p><p>This gradient highlights differentiated longshore sediment transport and sorting, in relation probably with sediment sources (siliclastic sands vs bioclastics sands).</p>

scholarly journals Phenomenology of meandering of a straight river

2018 ◽  
Vol 40 ◽  
pp. 05004
Author(s):  
Sk Zeeshan Ali ◽  
Subhasish Dey
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Grain Size ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scaling Law ◽  
Mathematical Framework ◽  
Sediment Grain Size ◽  
Erosion And Deposition ◽  
Flow Discharge ◽  
Universal Scaling ◽  
Relative Roughness

In this study, at first, we analyse the linear stability of a straight river. We find that the natural perturbation modes maintain an equilibrium state by confining themselves to a threshold wavenumber band. The effects of river aspect ratio, Shields number and relative roughness number on the wavenumber band are studied. Then, we present a phenomenological concept to probe the initiation of meandering of a straight river, which is governed by the counter-rotational motion of neighbouring large-scale eddies in succession to create the processes of alternating erosion and deposition of sediment grains of the riverbed. This concept is deemed to have adequately explained by a mathematical framework stemming from the turbulence phenomenology to obtain a quantitative insight. It is revealed that at the initiation of meandering of a river, the longitudinal riverbed slope obeys a universal scaling law with the river width, flow discharge and sediment grain size forming the riverbed. This universal scaling law is validated by the experimental data obtained from the natural and model rivers.

Temporal and spatial relationship between sediment grain size and beach profile

1994 ◽  
Vol 118 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 195-206 ◽  
Author(s):  
R Medina ◽  
M.A Losada ◽  
I.J Losada ◽  
C Vidal
Keyword(s):  
Grain Size ◽  
Spatial Relationship ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Sediment Grain Size ◽  
Temporal And Spatial

Restoring barrier habitat in Louisiana to compensate for natural resource injuries: Shell Island and Chenier Ronquille Barrier Restoration Projects

Shore & Beach ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 65-71
Author(s):  
Whitney Thompson ◽  
Christopher Paul ◽  
John Darnall
Keyword(s):  
Gulf Of Mexico ◽  
Natural Resource ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Barrier Island ◽  
Deepwater Horizon ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Restoration Project ◽  
Island Restoration ◽  
Barataria Basin ◽  
Outer Coast

Coastal Louisiana received significant funds tied to BP penalties as a result of the Deepwater Horizon incident. As it is widely considered that the State of Louisiana sustained most of the damage due to this incident, there has been a firm push to waste no time in implementing habitat restoration projects. Sustaining the land on the coast of Louisiana is vital to our nation’s economy, as several of the nation’s largest ports are located on the Gulf coast in Louisiana. In addition, the ecosystems making up the Louisiana coast are important to sustain some of the largest and most valuable fisheries in the nation. Funded by BP Phase 3 Early Restoration, the goals of the Natural Resource Damage Assessment (NRDA) Outer Coast Restoration Project are to restore beach, dune, and marsh habitats to help compensate spill-related injuries to habitats and species, specifically brown pelicans, terns, skimmers, and gulls. Four island components in Louisiana were funded under this project; Shell Island Barrier Restoration, Chenier Ronquille Barrier Island Restoration, Caillou Lake Headlands Barrier Island Restoration, and North Breton Island Restoration (https://www. gulfspillrestoration.noaa.gov/louisiana-outer-coast-restoration, NOAA 2018). Shell Island and Chenier Ronquille are critical pieces of barrier shoreline within the Barataria Basin in Plaquemines Parish, Louisiana. These large-scale restoration projects were completed in the years following the Deepwater Horizon incident, creating new habitat and reinforcing Louisiana’s Gulf of Mexico shoreline. The Louisiana Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority (CPRA) finished construction of the Shell Island NRDA Restoration Project in 2017, which restored two barrier islands in Plaquemines Parish utilizing sand hydraulically dredged from the Mississippi River and pumped via pipeline over 20 miles over levees and through towns, marinas, and marshes to the coastline. The National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) also completed the Plaquemines Parish barrier island restoration at Chenier Ronquille in 2017 utilizing nearshore Gulf of Mexico sediment, restoring wetland, coastal, and nearshore habitat in the Barataria Basin. A design and construction overview is provided herein.

scholarly journals Centennial Impacts of the East Asian Summer Monsoon on Holocene Deltaic Evolution of the Huanghe River, China

2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (6) ◽  
pp. 2799
Author(s):  
Yanping Chen ◽  
Wenzhe Lyu ◽  
Tengfei Fu ◽  
Yan Li ◽  
Liang Yi
Keyword(s):  
Grain Size ◽  
Yellow River ◽  
Asian Summer Monsoon ◽  
River Delta ◽  
Grain Size Analysis ◽  
Size Analysis ◽  
Sediment Grain Size ◽  
Huanghe River ◽  
Huanghe River Delta ◽  
The Huanghe River

The Huanghe River (Yellow River) is the most sediment laden river system in the world, and many efforts have been conducted to understand modern deltaic evolution in response to anthropological impacts. However, the natural background and its linkage to climatic changes are less documented in previous studies. In this work, we studied the sediments of core YDZ–3 and marine surface samples by grain-size analysis to retrieve Holocene dynamics of the Huanghe River delta in detail. The main findings are as follows: The mean value of sediment grain size of the studied core is 5.5 ± 0.9 Φ, and silt and sand contents are 5.2 ± 2.3% and 8.2 ± 5.3%, respectively, while the variance of clay particles is relatively large with an average value of 86.4 ± 8.5%. All grain-size data can be mathematically partitioned by a Weibull-based function formula, and three subgroups were identified with modal sizes of 61.1 ± 28.9 μm, 30.0 ± 23.9 μm, and 2.8 ± 1.6 μm, respectively. There are eight intervals with abrupt changes in modal size of core YDZ–3, which can be correlated to paleo-superlobe migration of the Huanghe River in the Holocene. Based on these observations, the presence of seven superlobes in the history are confirmed for the first time and their ages are well constrained in this study, including Paleo-Superlobes Lijin (6400–5280 yr BP), Huanghua (4480–4190 yr BP), Jugezhuang (3880–3660 yr BP), Shajinzi (3070–2870 yr BP), Nigu (2780–2360 yr BP), Qikou (2140–2000 yr BP), and Kenli (1940–1780 and 1700–1650 yr BP). By tuning geomorphological events to a sedimentary proxy derived from core YDZ–3 and comparing to various paleoenvironmental changes, we proposed that winter climate dominated Holocene shifts of the Huanghe River delta on millennial timescales, while summer monsoons controlled deltaic evolution on centennial timescales.

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