scholarly journals Phase-Resolved Reconstruction Algorithm and Deterministic Prediction of Nonlinear Ocean Waves From Spatio-Temporal Optical Measurements

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicolas Desmars ◽  
Yves Pérignon ◽  
Guillaume Ducrozet ◽  
Charles-Antoine Guérin ◽  
Stephan T. Grilli ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Reconstruction Algorithm ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Optical Measurements ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Offshore Structure ◽  
Highly Nonlinear ◽  
Spatio Temporal

We investigate a nonlinear phase-resolved reconstruction algorithm and models for the deterministic prediction of ocean waves based on a large number of spatio-temporal optical measurements of surface elevations. We consider a single sensor (e.g., LIDAR, stereo-video, etc.) mounted on a fixed offshore structure and remotely measuring fields of free surface elevations. Assuming a uniform distribution of measurement points over the sensor aperture angles, the density of free surface observation points geometrically decreases with the distance from the sensor. Additionally, wave shadowing effects occur, which become more important at small viewing angles (i.e., grazing incidence on the surface). These effects result in observations of surface elevation that are sparsely distributed. Here, based on earlier work by [1], we present and discuss the characteristics of an algorithm, aimed at assimilating such sparse data and able to deterministically reconstruct and propagate ocean surface elevations for their prediction in time and space. This algorithm could assist in the automatic steering and control of a variety of surface vehicles. Specifically, we compare prediction results using linear wave theory and the weakly nonlinear Choppy Wave Model [2, 3], extended here to an “improved” second order formulation. The latter model is based on an efficient Lagrangian formulation of the free surface and was shown to be able to model wave properties that are important to the proper representation of nonlinear free surfaces, namely wave shape and celerity. Synthetic datasets from highly nonlinear High Order Spectral simulations are used as reference oceanic surfaces. Predicted results are analyzed over an area that evolves in time, using the theoretical amount of information assimilated during the reconstruction of the wave field. For typical horizons of prediction, we discuss the capabilities of our assimilation process for each wave model considered.

A Second Order Lagrangian Model for Irregular Ocean Waves

2005 ◽  
Vol 128 (3) ◽  
pp. 177-183 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sébastien Fouques ◽  
Harald E. Krogstad ◽  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Specular Reflection ◽  
Fluid Velocity ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Lagrangian Model ◽  
Lagrangian Description ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Irregular Solution

Synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imaging of ocean waves involves both the geometry and the kinematics of the sea surface. However, the traditional linear wave theory fails to describe steep waves, which are likely to bring about specular reflection of the radar beam, and it may overestimate the surface fluid velocity that causes the so-called velocity bunching effect. Recently, the interest for a Lagrangian description of ocean gravity waves has increased. Such an approach considers the motion of individual labeled fluid particles and the free surface elevation is derived from the surface particles positions. The first order regular solution to the Lagrangian equations of motion for an inviscid and incompressible fluid is the so-called Gerstner wave. It shows realistic features such as sharper crests and broader troughs as the wave steepness increases. This paper proposes a second order irregular solution to these equations. The general features of the first and second order waves are described, and some statistical properties of various surface parameters such as the orbital velocity, slope, and mean curvature are studied.

First Order Stochastic Lagrange Model for Asymmetric Ocean Waves

2009 ◽  
Vol 131 (3) ◽  
Author(s):  
Georg Lindgren ◽  
Sofia Åberg
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Algorithms ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Point Of View ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Ocean Engineering ◽  
Vertical Movements ◽  
First Order ◽  
Water Conditions

The Gaussian linear wave model, which has been successfully used in ocean engineering for more than half a century, is well understood, and there exist both exact theory and efficient numerical algorithms for calculation of the statistical distribution of wave characteristics. It is well suited for moderate seastates and deep water conditions. One drawback, however, is its lack of realism under extreme or shallow water conditions, in particular, its symmetry. It produces waves, which are stochastically symmetric, both in the vertical and in the horizontal direction. From that point of view, the Lagrangian wave model, which describes the horizontal and vertical movements of individual water particles, is more realistic. Its stochastic properties are much less known and have not been studied until quite recently. This paper presents a version of the first order stochastic Lagrange model that is able to generate irregular waves with both crest-trough and front-back asymmetries.

Numerical Simulation of Flows Past Partially-Submerged Horizontal Circular Cylinders in Free Surface Waves

2013 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hans Bihs ◽  
Muk Chen Ong
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Circular Cylinders ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Numerical Wave Tank ◽  
Linear Wave Theory ◽  
Free Surface Waves

Two-dimensional (2D) numerical simulations are performed to investigate the flows past partially-submerged circular cylinders in free surface waves. The 2D simulations are carried out by solving the Unsteady Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (URANS) equations with the k-ω turbulence model. The level set method is employed to model the free-surface waves. Validation studies of a numerical wave tank have been performed by comparing the numerical results with the analytical results obtained from the linear-wave theory. Wave forces on the partially-submerged cylinders have been calculated numerically and compared with the published theoretical and experimental data under regular-wave conditions. The free-surface elevations around the cylinders have been investigated and discussed.

A Second Order Lagrangian Model for Irregular Ocean Waves

2004 ◽  
Author(s):  
Se´bastien Fouques ◽  
Harald E. Krogstad ◽  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Specular Reflection ◽  
Fluid Velocity ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Lagrangian Model ◽  
Lagrangian Description ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Irregular Solution

Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) imaging of ocean waves involves both the geometry and the kinematics of the sea surface. However, the traditional linear wave theory fails to describe steep waves, which are likely to bring about specular reflection of the radar beam, and it may overestimate the surface fluid velocity that causes the so-called velocity bunching effect. Recently, the interest for a Lagrangian description of ocean gravity waves has increased. Such an approach considers the motion of individual labeled fluid particles and the free surface elevation is derived from the surface particles positions. The first order regular solution to the Lagrangian equations of motion for an inviscid and incompressible fluid is the so-called Gerstner wave. It shows realistic features such as sharper crests and broader troughs as the wave steepness increases. This paper proposes a second order irregular solution to these equations. The general features of the first and second order waves are described, and some statistical properties of various surface parameters such as the orbital velocity, the slope and the mean curvature are studied.

Propagation of Steep and Breaking Short-Crested Waves: A Comparison of CFD Codes

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Øystein Lande ◽  
Thomas Berge Johannessen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Offshore Structures ◽  
Practical Reasons ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Highly Nonlinear

Using the computational fluid domain for propagation of ocean waves have become an important tool for the calculation of highly nonlinear wave loading on offshore structures such as run-up, wave slamming and non-linear breaking wave kinematics. At present, there are many computational fluid dynamics (CFD) codes available which can be employed to calculate water wave propagation and wave induced loading on structures. For practical reasons, however, the use of these codes is often limited to the propagation of regular uni-directional waves initiated very close to the structure, or to investigating the properties and loading due to measured waves by fitting a numerical wave to a measured wave profile. The present paper focuses on the propagation of steep irregular and short crested wave groups up to the point of breaking. Indeed, this is challenging because of the highly nonlinear behavior of irregular wave groups as steepness increases and they approach the point of breaking. The complexity further increases with the introduction of short-crestedness requiring computation in a large 3-dimentional domain. Two CFD codes are used in this comparison study which are believed to be well conditioned for wave propagation, the commercial code ComFLOW (available through the ComFLOW JIP project) and the open-source code BASILISK. The primary objective of this paper to show the two CFD codes capability of recreating measured irregular wave groups, using the known linear wave components from the model test as input to fluid domain. Wave elevation is measured at several locations in the close vicinity of the focus point. The comparison is carried out for a selection of events with variation in steepness, wave spreading and wave spectrum.

Reconstruction of Ocean Surfaces From Randomly Distributed Measurements Using a Grid-Based Method

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicolas Desmars ◽  
Moritz Hartmann ◽  
Jasper Behrendt ◽  
Marco Klein ◽  
Norbert Hoffmann
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Surface Dynamics ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Model Parameterization ◽  
Grid Points ◽  
High Flexibility ◽  
Similar Accuracy ◽  
Grid Based

Abstract In view of deterministic ocean wave prediction, we introduce and investigate a new method to reconstruct ocean surfaces based on randomly distributed wave measurements. Instead of looking for the optimal parameters of a wave model through the minimization of a cost function, our approach directly solves the free surface dynamics — coupled with an interpolation operator — for the quantities of interest (i.e., surface elevation and velocity potential) at grid points that are used to compute the relevant operators. This method allows a high flexibility in terms of desired accuracy and ensures the physical consistency of the solution. Using the linear wave theory and unidirectional wave fields, we validate the applicability of the proposed method. In particular, we show that our grid-based method is able to reach similar accuracy than the wave-model parameterization method at a reasonable cost.

Ocean Surface Modeling in Vary Wind Field

2011 ◽  
Vol 480-481 ◽  
pp. 1452-1456
Author(s):  
Li Bo ◽  
Zhong Yi Li ◽  
Yue Jin Zhang
Keyword(s):  
Wind Field ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Ocean Surface ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Surface Modeling ◽  
Ocean Wave ◽  
Statistical Characteristics ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave Models

In ocean surface modeling a popular method of wave modeling is making use of ocean wave spectrum, which is a physical wave model and based on linear wave theories. The ocean waves produced in this way can reflect the statistical characteristics of the real ocean well. However, few investigations of ocean simulation have been focused on turbulent fluid under vary wind field in this way, while all ocean wave models are built with the same wind parameters. In order to resolve the problem of traditional method, we proposed a new method of dividing the ocean surface into regular grids and generating wave models with different parameters of wind in different location of view scope. The method not only preserves the fidelity of statistical characteristics, but also can be accelerated with the processing of GPU and widely used in VR applications.

Extreme Non-Linear Wave Forces on a Monopile in Shallow Water

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jenny M. V. Trumars ◽  
Johan O. Jonsson ◽  
Lars Bergdahl
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Time Domain ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Offshore Wind ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Energy Converter ◽  
The Time Domain

A phase averaging wave model (SWAN) is used to transform offshore sea states to the near to shore site of an offshore wind energy converter. The supporting structure of the wind turbine consists of a cylindrical monopile, and the wave forces and resulting base moments on it are calculated by Morison’s equation integrating from the bottom to the instantaneous free surface. For that purpose the wave-motion in the time domain at the monopile is realized by a second-order random wave model.

scholarly journals COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 42
Author(s):  
Thomas A. Hardy ◽  
Nicholas C. Kraus
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Refraction ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Wave Mode ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Cnoidal Wave

An efficient numerical model is presented for calculating the refraction and shoaling of finite-amplitude waves over an irregular sea bottom. The model uses third-order Stokes wave theory in relatively deep water and second-order cnoidal wave theory in relatively shallow water. It can also be run using combinations of lower-order wave theories, including a pure linear wave mode. The problem of the connection of Stokes and cnoidal theories is investigated, and it is found that the use of second-order rather than first-order cnoidal theory greatly reduces the connection discontinuity. Calculations are compared with physical model measurements of the height and direction of waves passing over an elliptical shoal. The finite-amplitude wave model gives better qualitative and quantitative agreement with the measurements than the linear model.

Effect of High-Frequency Response on TLP Tendon Fatigue

2012 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edmund Muehlner ◽  
Surya Banumurthy ◽  
John Murray
Keyword(s):  
Frequency Response ◽  
Fatigue Damage ◽  
High Frequency ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Domain Model ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Analysis Model ◽  
Linear Wave Theory ◽  
High Frequency Response

High-frequency vibrations of Tension Leg Platforms (TLPs), commonly known as ringing and springing, have challenged TLP designers since the first full-scale TLP was installed in the North Sea in 1984. Although current design codes recognize the significance of the ringing and springing response for tendon design, no widely accepted modeling approach for their calculation has yet emerged. This paper presents a nonlinear time-domain model of a TLP that exhibits the ringing and springing response of the vessel. The analysis model uses large displacement theory for the vessel and tendons and a semi-empirical wave model based on a modified linear wave theory. Predictions of vessel motions and tendon loads made with the analysis model were compared to model tests and were found in good agreement with the measurements. The analysis model was also was used to investigate the fatigue damage in the tendons caused by the vessel’s high-frequency response. Tendon stress time histories were computed for nine different unidirectional sea-states. These sea-states represent a condensed wave scatter diagram for the Gulf of Mexico (GoM). The tendon fatigue was calculated from the stress histories by rainflow counting. Fatigue contributions from different frequency ranges were identified by Fourier analysis. The analysis showed that high-frequency response was present in all sea-states even though ringing occurred only in sea-states with significant wave heights above 10 ft. Tendon fatigue damage contribution from high-frequency loads were found to be significant in every sea-state. For all sea-states combined 73% of the up-wave tendon fatigue damage was due to high-frequency response. For the down-wave and the cross-wave tendons, the high-frequency contributions were 57% and 34%, respectively. This paper demonstrates the importance of considering high-frequency response for the fatigue design of TLP tendons. Another finding of the study is that the analysis model using a modified linear wave theory can describe the ringing and springing behavior of a TLP provided other significant nonlinearities of the system are considered.

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