Changes in Performance and Morning‐Measured Responses in Sport Rock Climbers

Abstract The aim of this study was to determine changes in climbers’ hormonal, cardiovascular, neuromuscular, sleep and fatigue status, and their relationship with performance and workloads during a sport rock climbing camp. Mean difficulty of individual leading climbing routes (mean Difficulty) was calculated for six male, intermediate level sport rock climbers participating in a 2-week camp in Orpierre. Additionally, each morning climbers were tested for: cortisol (d-Cortisol) and testosterone (d-Testosterone) concentrations, testosterone/cortisol ratio (T/C), heart rate and heart rate variability in supine (d-L-HR, d-L-SD1, d-L-SD2) and standing positions (d-S-HR, d-S-SD1, d-S-SD2), difference in S-HR and L-HR (HR-S-L), maximal voluntary hand grip strength (MVC), sleep duration (Sleep) and the self-perception of fatigue (M-Fatigue). Only M-Fatigue and d-Testosterone did not change significantly during the camp. Changes in other variables were large and significant, especially in the second week of the camp when the mean Difficulty was > 70%. The greatest changes were noted on the last day, when T/C, HR-S-L, and Sleep decreased and d-Cortisol, d-L-HR, and d-SD1 increased. The monitoring of the uncoupling of neuromuscular, hormonal, and cardiovascular markers can be instrumental in determining the level of athletes’ morning fatigue and readiness during a climbing camp. An increase in d-Cortisol and a decrease in T/C and HR-S-L are relevant indicators of overreaching in sport climbers.

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Physical Activity in Aging Population

European Journal of Interdisciplinary Studies ◽

10.26417/ejis.v5i3.p74-80 ◽

2019 ◽

Vol 5 (3) ◽

pp. 74

Author(s):

Rezarta Stena ◽

Klara Hysenaj ◽

Mitilda Gugu Karoli ◽

Armelda Teta ◽

Gjergji Doka

Keyword(s):

Physical Activity ◽

Older Adults ◽

Heart Rate ◽

Pain Intensity ◽

Range Of Motion ◽

Training Program ◽

Grip Strength ◽

Upper Limb ◽

Hand Grip ◽

Trunk Flexibility

It is known that worldwide populations are aging, and also that physical activity can play an important role in minimizing impairments characteristic of old age. Adopting a more active lifestyle and doing regular physical activity, including aerobic and resistance exercises, daily walking etc. have been demonstrated to improve cardiovascular, respiratory, and musculoskeletal parameters in older adults. We assessed a potential participant from Elbasan (Albania), 67 years, for eligibility to participate in a 5 month training program. The subject gave written informed consent before inclusion.The following parameters were measured at the beginning (baseline) and end of the training period: BMI, body fat percentage, hand grip strength, lower/upper limb and trunk flexibility and range of motion, heart rate, balance, pain intensity, as well as VO2 max, directly and/or an estimate using the Rockport fitness test estimate. An initial evaluation was carried out just before starting the training (baseline). A second evaluation was made 5 months after starting the program of physical exercise (post training). Each evaluation included the recording of health related events, such as any changes in previous symptoms, as well as measurements of balance, flexibility, body composition, coordination, muscle strength, and aerobic capacity, to detect any changes that might have been induced specifically by physical activity. The subject’s attendance and participation in the program was also recorded. Range of motion for each part evaluated (trunk, hip, cervical region and shoulder) is improved about 15-20° degree. BMI, hand grip strength, lower/upper limb and trunk flexibility, heart rate, balance, pain intensity, VO2 max are also improved after training program. Following a training program or a regular physical activity in older adults minimise impairments characteristics in this age and cardiovascular, respiratory, and musculoskeletal parameters. According to the low importance shown in my country for the physical activity in older adults, I want to emphasize the importance of state structures involvement and the sensibilization of this group of age to stimulate an actively participation in physical training programs followed by professionals for bests life parameters. A higher investment for this age group, building as many facilities as possible for activation and spending quality free time, hiring more physiotherapists in nursing homes will increase life motivation and improve the quality and the parameters of living.

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Association between Sleep Duration and Hand Grip Strength among COPD Patients

Western Journal of Nursing Research ◽

10.1177/01939459211028666 ◽

2021 ◽

pp. 019394592110286

Author(s):

Cui Wang ◽

Mengqi Wang ◽

Jieru Chen ◽

Limin Wang ◽

Shaomei Shang

Keyword(s):

Grip Strength ◽

Sleep Duration ◽

Health Care Providers ◽

Hand Grip Strength ◽

Chronic Obstructive ◽

Care Providers ◽

Linear Regression Models ◽

Night Time ◽

Hand Grip ◽

Copd Patients

This study aimed to evaluate the association between night-time sleep duration and hand grip strength (HGS) among patients with chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD). Participants aged ≥45 years were included in a nationally representative investigation clinical study in 2015. HGS was measured using dynamometers. The data on night-time sleep duration, sociodemographic information, and health-related variables were systematically collected. For analysis, sleep duration was categorized as <5 h, 5–7 h, 7 h, 7–9 h, and >9 h. Multivariable linear regression models were used to determine the possible association between the night-time sleep duration and HGS. Our results indicated that the shortest (<5 h) or the longest sleep duration (>9 h) was relevant to high risk of weaker HGS in females. In males, the shortest (<5 h) sleep duration was correlated to lower HGS. Thus, our findings clearly suggest that health care providers should focus on the potential influence of sleep duration on HGS among COPD patients.

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Effects of Marine n-3 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids on Heart Rate Variability and Heart Rate in Patients on Chronic Dialysis: A Randomized Controlled Trial

Nutrients ◽

10.3390/nu10091313 ◽

2018 ◽

Vol 10 (9) ◽

pp. 1313 ◽

Cited By ~ 6

Author(s):

Jesper Rantanen ◽

Sam Riahi ◽

Martin Johansen ◽

Erik Schmidt ◽

Jeppe Christensen

Keyword(s):

Fatty Acids ◽

Heart Rate ◽

Heart Rate Variability ◽

Sudden Cardiac Death ◽

Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids ◽

Cardiac Death ◽

Controlled Trial ◽

Chronic Dialysis ◽

Dialysis Vintage ◽

The Mean

Marine n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) may improve autonomic dysfunction, as indicated by an increase in heart rate variability (HRV) and reduce the risk of sudden cardiac death. Hence, the aim of this study was to investigate the effects of marine n-3 PUFA on 24-h HRV in patients on chronic dialysis, who have a high risk of sudden cardiac death. Between June 2014 and March 2016, 112 patients on chronic dialysis from Denmark were allocated to a daily supplement of 2 g marine n-3 PUFA or control for three months in a randomized, double-blinded, controlled trial. A 48-h Holter monitoring was performed and mean 24-h HRV indices for the two days were available in 85 patients. The mean age was 62.3 years (SD: 14.3) and median dialysis vintage was 1.7 years (IQR: 0.5, 6.4). Within-group and between-group changes in outcome were evaluated by a paired and two sample t-test, respectively. Marine n-3 PUFA did not change the primary endpoint SDNN (SD of all RR-intervals) reflecting overall HRV, but other HRV indices increased and the mean RR-interval increased significantly, corresponding to a decrease in heart rate by 2.5 beats per minute (p = 0.04). In conclusion, marine n-3 PUFA did not change SDNN, but the mean heart rate was significantly reduced and changes in other HRV-indices were also observed, indicating an increase in vagal modulation that might be protective against malignant ventricular arrhythmias.

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Arthroscopic Debridement and Arthrolysis for the Treatment of Advanced Kienböck's Disease: 18-Month and 5-Year Postoperative Results

Journal of Wrist Surgery ◽

10.1055/s-0040-1722570 ◽

2021 ◽

Author(s):

Omer Ayik ◽

Mehmet Demirel ◽

Necmettin Turgut ◽

Okyar Altas ◽

Hayati Durmaz

Keyword(s):

Grip Strength ◽

Dash Score ◽

Arthroscopic Debridement ◽

Kienböck’S Disease ◽

Kienböck's Disease ◽

Hand Grip ◽

Case Series Study ◽

The Mean ◽

Kienbock’S Disease

Abstract Background Salvage procedures, such as proximal row carpectomy, limited or total wrist arthrodesis, and wrist replacement, are generally preferred to treat advanced Kienböck's disease. However, these procedures are particularly aggressive and may have unpredictable results and potentially significant complications. Questions/Purpose This study aimed to present the short- to mid-term clinical and functional results of arthroscopic debridement and arthrolysis in the management of advanced Kienböck's disease. Patients and Methods Fifteen patients in whom Lichtman Stages IIIA to IIIC or IV Kienböck's disease was diagnosed and treated by arthroscopic wrist debridement and arthrolysis were included in this retrospective study. The mean age was 30 years (range: 21–45). The mean follow-up period duration was 36 months (range: 18–60). The Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder, and Hand (DASH) score, visual analog scale (VAS), wrist range of motion (ROM), and grip strength were measured preoperatively and then again at the final follow-up visit. Results The mean DASH and VAS scores improved from 41 (range: 31–52) and 7.1 (range: 6–8) preoperatively to 13 (range: 8–21) and 2 (range: 0–3; p < 0.001) at the final follow-up visit, respectively. The mean wrist flexion and extension values increased from 32 (range: 20–60 degrees) and 56 degrees (range: 30–70 degrees; p = 0.009) preoperatively to 34 (range: 10–65 degrees; p = 0.218) and 57 degrees (range: 30–70 degrees; p = 0.296) at the final follow-up appointment, respectively, although these findings were statistically insignificant. The mean strength of the hand grip increased from 22.7 (range: 9–33) to 23.3 (range: 10–34; p = 0.372). Conclusion Arthroscopic debridement and arthrolysis may improve wrist function and quality of life due to the preserved ROM and hand grip strength after short- to mid-term follow-up periods despite the radiographic progression of Kienböck's disease. Level of Evidence This is a Level IV, retrospective case series study.

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Estimating and Correcting the Regression to the Mean in Heart Rate Variability Studies

A Closer Look at Heart Rate ◽

10.52305/tler3844 ◽

2020 ◽

Author(s):

Dimitriev

Keyword(s):

Heart Rate ◽

Heart Rate Variability ◽

Regression To The Mean ◽

The Mean

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Seven days of hot water heat acclimation does not modulate the change in heart rate variability during passive heat exposure

Applied Physiology Nutrition and Metabolism ◽

10.1139/apnm-2020-0510 ◽

2020 ◽

Author(s):

Philippe Gendron ◽

Hugo Gravel ◽

Hadiatou Barry ◽

Daniel Gagnon

Keyword(s):

Heart Rate ◽

Heart Rate Variability ◽

High Frequency ◽

Water Immersion ◽

Heat Exposure ◽

Thermal Strain ◽

Heat Acclimation ◽

Hot Water ◽

Frequency Range ◽

The Mean

We examined if the change in heart rate variability (HRV) during passive heat exposure is modified by hot water heat acclimation (HA). Sixteen healthy adults (28 ± 5 years, 5 females/11 males) underwent heat exposure in a water-perfused suit, pre and post 7 days of HA (60 minutes at rectal temperature ≥38.6°C). During passive heat exposure, heart rate (HR), the standard deviation of NN intervals (SDNN), the square root of the mean squared differences of successive NN intervals (RMSSD) and the power in the high frequency range (HF) were measured. No difference in HR (P=0.22), SDNN (P=0.87), RMSSD (P=0.79) and HF (P=0.23) was observed at baseline. The increase in HR (pre-HA: 43 ± 10, post-HA: 42 ± 9 bpm, P=0.57) and the decrease of SDNN (pre-HA: -54.1 ± 41.0, post-HA: -52.2 ± 36.8 ms, P=0.85), RMSSD (pre-HA: -70.8 ± 49.5, post-HA: -72.7 ± 50.4 ms, P=0.91) and HF (pre-HA: -28.0 ± 14.5, post-HA: -23.2 ± 17.1%, P=0.27) were not different between experimental visits at fixed increases in esophageal temperature. These results suggest that 7 consecutive days of hot water HA does not modify the change in HRV indices during passive heat exposure. Novelty bullets: - It remains unclear if heat acclimation alters the change in heart rate variability that occurs during passive heat exposure. - At matched levels of thermal strain, 7 consecutive days of hot water immersion did not modulate the change in indices of heart rate variability during passive heat exposure.

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Multiple regression analysis of factors influencing dominant hand grip strength in an adult Malaysian population

Journal of Hand Surgery (European Volume) ◽

10.1177/1753193411414639 ◽

2011 ◽

Vol 37 (1) ◽

pp. 65-70 ◽

Cited By ~ 21

Author(s):

M. G. Hossain ◽

R. Zyroul ◽

B. P. Pereira ◽

T. Kamarul

Keyword(s):

Regression Analysis ◽

Multiple Regression Analysis ◽

Grip Strength ◽

Multiple Regression ◽

Hand Grip Strength ◽

Dominant Hand ◽

Asian Ethnicity ◽

Malaysian Population ◽

Hand Grip ◽

The Mean

Grip strength is an important measure used to monitor the progression of a condition, and to evaluate outcomes of treatment. We assessed how various physical and social factors predict normal grip strength in an adult Malaysian population of mixed Asian ethnicity (254 men, 246 women). Grip strength was recorded using the Jamar dynamometer. The mean grip strength for the dominant hand was 29.8 kg for men and 17.6 kg for women. Multiple regression analysis demonstrated that the dominant hand grip strength was positively associated with height and body mass index, and negatively associated with age for both sexes. Dominant hand grip strength was related to work status for men ( p < 0.05) but not for women. However, there was no difference in grip strength among ethnic groups.

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Heart Rate Variability Assessment by the Entropy Parameters during Sleep

International Journal of Innovative Technology and Exploring Engineering - Special Issue ◽

10.35940/ijitee.i7230.079920 ◽

2020 ◽

Vol 9 (9) ◽

pp. 468-472

Keyword(s):

Heart Rate ◽

Heart Rate Variability ◽

Eye Movement ◽

Discrimination Performance ◽

Conditional Entropy ◽

Approximate Entropy ◽

Mean Value ◽

Sleep Stages ◽

The Mean

The nonlinear heart rate variability (HRV) parameter quantifies autonomic nervous system (ANS) activity based on the complexity or irregularity of an HRV dataset. At present, among various entropy-related parameters during sleep, approximate entropy (ApEn) and sample entropy (SampEn) are not as well understood as other entropy parameters such as Shannon entropy (SE) and conditional entropy (CE). Therefore, in this study, we investigated the characteristics of ApEn and SampEn to differentiate a rapid eye movement (REM) and nonrapid eye movement (NREM) for sleep stages. For nonlinear sleep HRV analysis, two target 10-minute, long-term HRV segments were obtained from each REM and NREM for 16 individual subjects. The target HRV segment was analyzed by moving the 2-minute window forward by 2 s, resulting in 240 results of each ApEn and SampEn. The ApEn and SampEn were averaged to obtain the mean value and standard deviation (SD) of all the results. SampEn provides excellent discrimination performance between REM and NREM in terms of the mean and SD (p<0.0001 and p=0.1989, respectively; 95% CI), but ApEn was inferior to SampEn (p=0.1980 and p=0.9931). The results indicate that SampEn, but not ApEn could be used to discriminate REM from NREM and detect various sleep-related incidents.

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