scholarly journals Coastal Processes and Longshore Sediment Transport along Zemmouri Bay, Central East Coast of Algeria

2019 ◽  
Vol 21 (1) ◽  
pp. 7-15
Author(s):  
Khoudir Mezouar ◽  
Romeo Ciortan
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Morphological Changes ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Spatial And Temporal Scales ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Shoreline Evolution ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Western Area ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Comprehensive Study

Abstract The coastline of Zemmouri Bay on the northeast coast of Algeria with about 50 km of shoreline has been eroding since 1970. Changes of the sandy shoreline are continuous and occur at diverse spatial and temporal scales. This erosion is a major crisis and it potentially impacts the coastal population and natural environment. In order to understand and predict these morphological changes, an accurate description of sediment transport by waves and currents and shoreline change is important. This paper presents a comprehensive study of wave refraction, current-driven sediment transport and shoreline change. Results show that the study area exhibits a great variety of shoreline evolution trends, with erosion prevailing in the eastern and central sectors and stability or even accretion in the Western area.

scholarly journals SIMULATION OF LONG-TERM SHORELINE CHANGE DRIVEN BY LONGSHORE AND CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

2020 ◽  
pp. 31
Author(s):  
Yan Ding ◽  
Sung-Chan Kim ◽  
Richard B. Styles ◽  
Rusty L. Permenter
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Shoreline Evolution ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Semi Empirical ◽  
Evolution Modeling

Driven by wave and current, sediment transport alongshore and cross-shore induces shoreline changes in coasts. Estimated by breaking wave energy flux, longshore sediment transport in littoral zone has been studied for decades. Cross-shore sediment transport can be significant in a gentle-slope beach and a barred coast due to bar migration. Short-term beach profile evolution (typically for a few days or weeks) has been successfully simulated by reconstructing nonlinear wave shape in nearshore zone (e.g. Hsu et al 2006, Fernandez-Mora et al. 2015). However, it is still lack of knowledge on the relationship between cross-shore sediment transport and long-term shoreline evolution. Based on the methodology of beach profile evolution modeling, a semi-empirical closure model is developed for estimating phase-average net cross-shore sediment transport rate induced by waves, currents, and gravity. This model has been implemented into GenCade, the USACE shoreline evolution model.

scholarly journals PROBABILISTIC SHORELINE CHANGE MODELING AND RISK ESTIMATION OF EROSION

2018 ◽  
pp. 1
Author(s):  
Yan Ding ◽  
Ashley E. Frey ◽  
Sung-Chan Kim ◽  
Rusty E. Permenter
Keyword(s):  
Monte Carlo ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Likelihood Method ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Shoreline Changes ◽  
Model Based ◽  
Shoreline Evolution ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Heights

Prediction of long-term shoreline changes is a key task in planning and management of coastal zones and regional sediment management. Due to complex natural features of offshore waves, sediments, and longshore sediment transport, quantifying uncertainties of shoreline evolution and risks of extreme shoreline changes (erosion and accretion) is of vital importance for practicing uncertainty- or risk-based design of shorelines. This paper presents probabilistic shoreline change modeling to quantify uncertainties of shoreline variations by using numerical-model-based Monte-Carlo simulations. A shoreline evolution model, GenCade, is used to simulate longshore sediment transport and shoreline changes induced by random waves from offshore. A probability density function with a modified tail distribution is developed to capture stochastic features of wave heights under fair weather and storm conditions. It produces a time series of wave heights including small and extreme waves based on their probabilities (or frequencies of appearance). Probabilistic modeling of shoreline change is demonstrated by computing spatiotemporal variations of statistical parameters such as mean and variance of shoreline changes along an idealized coast bounded by two groins. Maximum shoreline changes in return years with a confidence range are also estimated by using maximum likelihood method. Reasonable results of obtained probabilistic shoreline changes reveal that this model-based Monte-Carlo simulation and uncertainty estimation approach are applicable to facilitate risk/uncertainty-based design and planning of shorelines.

scholarly journals Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (5) ◽  
pp. 673-690 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guilherme Franz ◽  
Matthias T. Delpey ◽  
David Brito ◽  
Lígia Pinto ◽  
Paulo Leitão ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Morphological Changes ◽  
Morphological Evolution ◽  
Research Effort ◽  
Beach Erosion ◽  
Model Complexity ◽  
Invariant Equilibrium ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Combined Action ◽  
Modelling System

Abstract. Coastal defence structures are often constructed to prevent beach erosion. However, poorly designed structures may cause serious erosion problems in the downdrift direction. Morphological models are useful tools to predict such impacts and assess the efficiency of defence structures for different scenarios. Nevertheless, morphological modelling is still a topic under intense research effort. The processes simulated by a morphological model depend on model complexity. For instance, undertow currents are neglected in coastal area models (2DH), which is a limitation for simulating the evolution of beach profiles for long periods. Model limitations are generally overcome by predefining invariant equilibrium profiles that are allowed to shift offshore or onshore. A more flexible approach is described in this paper, which can be generalised to 3-D models. The present work is based on the coupling of the MOHID modelling system and the SWAN wave model. The impacts of different designs of detached breakwaters and groynes were simulated in a schematic beach configuration following a 2DH approach. The results of bathymetry evolution are in agreement with the patterns found in the literature for several existing structures. The model was also tested in a 3-D test case to simulate the formation of sandbars by undertow currents. The findings of this work confirmed the applicability of the MOHID modelling system to study sediment transport and morphological changes in coastal zones under the combined action of waves and currents. The same modelling methodology was applied to a coastal zone (Costa da Caparica) located at the mouth of a mesotidal estuary (Tagus Estuary, Portugal) to evaluate the hydrodynamics and sediment transport both in calm water conditions and during events of highly energetic waves. The MOHID code is available in the GitHub repository.

scholarly journals Simulations of Shoreline Changes along the Delaware Coast

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yan Ding ◽  
Sung-Chan Kim ◽  
Rusty L. Permenter ◽  
Richard B. Styles ◽  
Jeffery A. Gebert
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Coastal Sediments ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Shoreline Evolution ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Technical Report ◽  
Indian River ◽  
Sediment Transfer ◽  
Island Coast

This technical report presents two applications of the GenCade model to simulate long-term shoreline evolution along the Delaware Coast driven by waves, inlet sediment transport, and longshore sediment transport. The simulations also include coastal protection practices such as periodic beach fills, post-storm nourishment, and sand bypassing. Two site-specific GenCade models were developed: one is for the coasts adjacent to the Indian River Inlet (IRI) and another is for Fenwick Island. In the first model, the sediment exchanges among the shoals and bars of the inlet were simulated by the Inlet Reservoir Model (IRM) in the GenCade. An inlet sediment transfer factor (γ) was derived from the IRM to quantify the capability of inlet sediment bypassing, measured by a rate of longshore sediments transferred across an inlet from the updrift side to the downdrift side. The second model for the Fenwick Island coast was validated by simulating an 11-y ear-long shoreline evolution driven by longshore sediment transport and periodic beach fills. Validation of the two models was achieved through evaluating statistical errors of simulations. The effects of the sand bypassing operation across the IRI and the beach fills in Fenwick Island were examined by comparing simulation results with and without those protection practices. Results of the study will benefit planning and management of coastal sediments at the sites.

scholarly journals EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION ON DYNAMIC EQUILIBRIUM BAY SHAPE

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 37
Author(s):  
Sutat Weesakul ◽  
Somruthai Tasaduak
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Investigation ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Dynamic Equilibrium ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Sediment Supply ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Supply Source ◽  
Wave Condition ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport

Equilibrium bay is a bay that its shoreline is stable and does not change with time in long term. This concept can be applied for coastal protection. Experiments on dynamic equilibrium bay planform are conducted in a laboratory. There is one location of sediment supply source into a bay near upcoast headland and its magnitude vary from case to case. Wave obliquity varies from small to moderate values. These are two main parameters while wave condition is kept constant. The final bay planforms are investigated and recorded once they reach equilibrium with condition that sediment transport gradient approaches zero and no further shoreline change are observed. The parabolic equation similar to that for static equilibrium is newly proposed. The coefficients are originally derived and found to be a function of wave obliquity and the ratio of sediment supplied into bay to longshore sediment transport. The new dynamic equilibrium bay equation can be used and applied to study morphology change with variation of supplied sediment from inland.

scholarly journals Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guilherme Franz ◽  
Matthias T. Delpey ◽  
David Brito ◽  
Lígia Pinto ◽  
Paulo Leitão ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Morphological Changes ◽  
Morphological Evolution ◽  
Research Effort ◽  
Beach Erosion ◽  
Model Complexity ◽  
Invariant Equilibrium ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Combined Action ◽  
Modelling System

Abstract. Coastal defence structures are often constructed to prevent beach erosion. However, poorly designed structures may cause serious erosion problems in the downdrift direction. Morphological models are useful tools to predict such impacts and assess the efficiency of defence structures for different scenarios. Nevertheless, morphological modelling is still a topic under intense research effort. The processes simulated by a morphological model depend on model complexity. For instance, undertow currents are neglected in coastal area models (2DH), which is a limitation for simulating the evolution of beach profiles for long periods. Model limitations are generally overcome by predefining invariant equilibrium profiles that are allowed to shift offshore or onshore. A more flexible approach is described in this paper, which can be generalised to 3D models. The present work is based on the coupling of the MOHID modelling system and SWAN wave model. The impacts of different designs of detached breakwaters and groynes were simulated in a schematic beach configuration following a 2DH approach. The results of bathymetry evolution are in agreement with the patterns found in the literature for several existing structures. The model was also tested in a 3D test case to simulate the formation of sandbars by undertow currents. The findings of this work confirmed the applicability of the MOHID modelling system to study sediment transport and morphological changes in coastal zones under the combined action of waves and currents. The same modelling methodology was applied to a coastal zone (Costa da Caparica) located at the mouth of a mesotidal estuary (Tagus Estuary, Portugal) to evaluate the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in calm water conditions and during events of highly energetic waves.

scholarly journals Deficit of sand in a sediment transport model favors coral reef development in Brazil

2008 ◽  
Vol 80 (1) ◽  
pp. 205-214 ◽  
Author(s):  
Abílio C.S.P. Bittencourt ◽  
Zelinda M.A.N. Leão ◽  
Ruy K.P. Kikuchi ◽  
José M.L. Dominguez
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Transport Model ◽  
Order Approximation ◽  
Regional Scale ◽  
Coastal System ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
First Order ◽  
Sediment Transport Model ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
First Order Approximation

This paper shows that the location of the shoreface bank reefs along the northeastern and eastern coasts of Brazil, in a first order approximation, seem to be controlled by the deficit of sediment in the coastal system. The sediment transport pattern defined by a numerical modeling of wave refraction diagrams, representing circa 2000 km of the northeastern and eastern coasts of Brazil, permitted the regional-scale reproduction of several drift cells of net longshore sediment transport. Those drift cells can reasonably explain the coastal sections that present sediment surplus or sediment deficit, which correspond, respectively, to regions where there is deposition and erosion or little/no deposition of sand. The sediment deficit allows the exposure and maintenance of rocky substrates to be free of sediment, a favorable condition for the fixation and development of coral larvae.

Sediment transport and shoreline shifts in response to climate change at the tidal inlets of Chilika, India

2018 ◽  
Vol 233 (1) ◽  
pp. 372-387 ◽  
Author(s):  
B Gopikrishna ◽  
MC Deo
Keyword(s):  
Climate Change ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Climate Model ◽  
Regional Climate ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Tidal Inlets ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
The Past ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Other Information

The shoreline adjoining Chilika Lake, situated along India’s east coast, has multiple tidal inlets which connect the lake with Bay of Bengal. The shoreline behavior near such inlets is generally studied with the help of a suitable numerical model. Such models are run on the basis of historical data of waves and other information. However, the waves in future may show different strength and pattern than the past as a result of the climate change induced by global warming. It is thus necessary that the model input should correspond to future or projected data of wind and waves. In this work, we have used the wind information from a state-of-the-art regional climate model, CORDEX RegCM-4, of future 25 years in order to run a shoreline evolution model and have derived the longshore sediment transport rate as well as the shoreline change rate around Chilika inlets. These future values are compared with corresponding ones of the past 25 years. It is found that at the given location, mean wind might go up by 20%, and this could raise the mean significant wave height strongly by 32%. The direction and frequency of occurrence of waves would also change, and this in turn will cause an increase in the net littoral drift by 41% and net accumulated drift over the entire cross-shore width by 84%. Interestingly, the present site where accretion was prevalent in the past may see erosion in future at the rate of about 1 m per year.

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