scholarly journals The Responsible Fashion System: A Re-Conceptualization Of The Role Of Fashion Design

Author(s):  
Anika Kozlowski

Sustainable fashion has developed as a response to the growing prominence and awareness of the negative environmental and social impacts of fashion apparel throughout its life cycle. Responses to these wide-scale impacts have focused on piecemeal strategies that lack a cohesive perspective. The notion of design thinking and a holistic viewpoint are increasingly being seen as valued strategies for developing a sustainable fashion system. Fashion designers generally lack the tools to enable change and are caught within a system that cannot fulfill the potential of design-driven solutions for sustainability. Transformations to the design process, business practices, consumer behaviours and supply-chain sustainability are needed. This dissertation presents a series of manuscripts investigating a re-conceptualization of fashion design for system sustainability. Concepts put forth in the first manuscript, Theorizing the Fashion System provide context for a design focus. This study reviews existing theories of fashion production and consumption, for the purpose of establishing a theoretical framework to support subsequent research and tool design. The second manuscript Tools for Sustainable Fashion Design: An Analysis of their Fitness for Purpose examines existing design tools developed specifically for sustainable fashion designers. This research led to the creation and proposal of two conceptual frameworks: an innovation framework and five-dimensional model of sustainable fashion. Using the frameworks to analyze the tools and sustainable strategies within the tools resulted in the identification of three tool archetypes: 1) Universal, 2) Participatory and 3) Assessment. The third manuscript investigates and analyzes current design practices of sustainable fashion micro and small enterprises (MSE) and available sustainable design tools. The fourth manuscript, The reDesign Canvas: Fashion Design as a Tool for Sustainability, is a qualitative in-depth case study with a small fashion start-up. Utilizing observations in the field, interviews and design sessions, this study was able to identify leverage points within the design process to integrate sustainable strategies. The data collected informed the development of a sustainable fashion design tool, the reDesign Canvas. This framework was tested and refined with the case study. This work aims to contribute a reconceptualization of the fashion design process to provide designers with the tools necessary to achieve a sustainable fashion system.

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anika Kozlowski

Sustainable fashion has developed as a response to the growing prominence and awareness of the negative environmental and social impacts of fashion apparel throughout its life cycle. Responses to these wide-scale impacts have focused on piecemeal strategies that lack a cohesive perspective. The notion of design thinking and a holistic viewpoint are increasingly being seen as valued strategies for developing a sustainable fashion system. Fashion designers generally lack the tools to enable change and are caught within a system that cannot fulfill the potential of design-driven solutions for sustainability. Transformations to the design process, business practices, consumer behaviours and supply-chain sustainability are needed. This dissertation presents a series of manuscripts investigating a re-conceptualization of fashion design for system sustainability. Concepts put forth in the first manuscript, Theorizing the Fashion System provide context for a design focus. This study reviews existing theories of fashion production and consumption, for the purpose of establishing a theoretical framework to support subsequent research and tool design. The second manuscript Tools for Sustainable Fashion Design: An Analysis of their Fitness for Purpose examines existing design tools developed specifically for sustainable fashion designers. This research led to the creation and proposal of two conceptual frameworks: an innovation framework and five-dimensional model of sustainable fashion. Using the frameworks to analyze the tools and sustainable strategies within the tools resulted in the identification of three tool archetypes: 1) Universal, 2) Participatory and 3) Assessment. The third manuscript investigates and analyzes current design practices of sustainable fashion micro and small enterprises (MSE) and available sustainable design tools. The fourth manuscript, The reDesign Canvas: Fashion Design as a Tool for Sustainability, is a qualitative in-depth case study with a small fashion start-up. Utilizing observations in the field, interviews and design sessions, this study was able to identify leverage points within the design process to integrate sustainable strategies. The data collected informed the development of a sustainable fashion design tool, the reDesign Canvas. This framework was tested and refined with the case study. This work aims to contribute a reconceptualization of the fashion design process to provide designers with the tools necessary to achieve a sustainable fashion system.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert Ott

This thesis examines the ways in which fashion designers think about themselves, the design process, and the fashion industry. Recent interest in design thinking has brought decision making to the forefront in an effort to resolve conflicts between creative individuals and managers during the design process. Within the fashion design literature there are studies of processes in large fashion manufacturing enterprises but very little has focused on small-scale fashion design entrepreneurs. In this inductive, qualitative study, I use grounded theory as the methodology in the analysis of semi-structured interviews of twelve Canadian fashion design entrepreneurs. The findings explore their perceptions of their identity as designers, their perceptions of design process, and their relationship to their business. This research has developed the concept of “artisanal fashion design” as a distinct subset of design for further study and for consideration by organizations, the fashion industry, and educators.


Author(s):  
Wenwen Zhang ◽  
Charlie Ranscombe ◽  
David Radcliffe ◽  
Simon Jackson

AbstractIn Industrial Design, new design visualisation tools are emerging offering significant benefits to the designers. However, studies show alongside some benefits, new tools can also inhibit designers' creativity or cause time inefficiency if used in the wrong context. Thus, understanding which tools to use and when during the design process is increasingly necessary to ensure the best use of resources in design practice. Existing research on understanding the performance of design tools and the resulting frameworks for comparing tools are either specific to certain tools or highly generalised making evaluation across different design tools challenging. As such, this paper reports the creation of a more comprehensive framework of design tool characteristics to facilitate a better understanding of design tools and their uses. Demonstration of application of the framework is also given in the form of a case study on the use of Digital Sketching and its comparable tools with four practising designers. In conclusion, we show how the Design Tool Characteristics (DTCs) framework is an effective way to understand design tools, with further implications for design tool development.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert Ott

This thesis examines the ways in which fashion designers think about themselves, the design process, and the fashion industry. Recent interest in design thinking has brought decision making to the forefront in an effort to resolve conflicts between creative individuals and managers during the design process. Within the fashion design literature there are studies of processes in large fashion manufacturing enterprises but very little has focused on small-scale fashion design entrepreneurs. In this inductive, qualitative study, I use grounded theory as the methodology in the analysis of semi-structured interviews of twelve Canadian fashion design entrepreneurs. The findings explore their perceptions of their identity as designers, their perceptions of design process, and their relationship to their business. This research has developed the concept of “artisanal fashion design” as a distinct subset of design for further study and for consideration by organizations, the fashion industry, and educators.


Author(s):  
Cari R. Bryant ◽  
Matt Bohm ◽  
Robert B. Stone ◽  
Daniel A. McAdams

This paper builds on previous concept generation techniques explored at the University of Missouri - Rolla and presents an interactive concept generation tool aimed specifically at the early concept generation phase of the design process. Research into automated concept generation design theories led to the creation of two distinct design tools: an automated morphological search that presents a designer with a static matrix of solutions that solve the desired input functionality and a computational concept generation algorithm that presents a designer with a static list of compatible component chains that solve the desired input functionality. The merger of both the automated morphological matrix and concept generation algorithm yields an interactive concept generator that allows the user to select specific solution components while receiving instantaneous feedback on component compatibility. The research presented evaluates the conceptual results from the hybrid morphological matrix approach and compares interactively constructed solutions to those returned by the non-interactive automated morphological matrix generator using a dog food sample packet counter as a case study.


Author(s):  
W. Stuart Miller ◽  
Sudhakar Teegavarapu ◽  
Joshua D. Summers

This case study observes the effect of design tool use in engineering courses on subsequent uses of design tools. Students gain a familiarity with design tools as they use them in early engineering classes, and will traditionally implement similar methods to seek future design solutions. Problems arise because design tools are often used inappropriately, which may or may not lead to productive outcomes. Understanding how design tools are incorporated into engineering curriculum will reveal how that particular method was selected, the background information given to the student to facilitate tool use, and the benefit gained from using the specific tool in the given case. This information is valuable to the evaluation of the engineering curriculum of which few performance metrics exist. This case study utilizes a design team enrolled in a capstone design course to collect data on the use of design tools throughout their curriculum. Trends are revealed that relate how the tool use is implemented, how the instruction is delivered to the student, and the beneficial application of those to the given design project. These trends directly apply to the intellectual growth of the student as well as the topical coverage and implementation by the engineering department. Using this information, the engineering curriculum can improve its delivery of design instruction. It can be assumed that by improving the curriculum, the quality of the students will follow; yielding engineers who can study better and conduct design projects with intentional precision.


2019 ◽  
pp. 42-75
Author(s):  
Martijn Ten Bhömer ◽  
Hai-Ning Liang ◽  
Difeng Yu ◽  
Yuanjin Liu ◽  
Yifan Zhang ◽  
...  

Developments of advanced textile manufacturing techniques—such as 3D body-forming knitwear machinery—allows the production of almost finalized garments, which require little to no further production steps to finalize the garment. Moreover, advanced knitting technology in combination with new materials enables the integration of localized functionalities within a garment on a “stitch by stitch level.” There is potential in enhancing the design tools for advanced knitting manufacturing through the use of technologies such as data gathering, machine learning, and simulation. This approach reflects the potential of Industry 4.0, as design, product development, and manufacturing are moving closer together. However, there is still limited knowledge at present about how these new technologies and tools can have an impact on the creative design process. The case study presented in this paper explores the potential of predictive software design tools for fashion designers who are developing personalized advanced functionalities in textile products. The main research question explored in this article is: “How can designers benefit from intelligent design software for the manufacturing of advanced personalized functionalities in textile products?”. Within this larger research question three sub-research questions are explored: (1) What kind of advanced functionalities can be considered for the personalization process of knitwear? (2) How to design interactions and interfaces that use intelligent predictive algorithms to stimulate creativity during the fashion design process? (3) How will predictive software impact the manufacturing process for other stakeholders and production steps? These questions are investigated through the analysis of a Research Through Design case study, in which several predictive algorithms were compared and implemented in a user interface that would aid knitwear designers during the development process of high-performance running tights.


Author(s):  
Carolynn J. Walthall ◽  
Srikanth Devanathan ◽  
Lorraine Kisselburgh ◽  
Karthik Ramani ◽  
E. Daniel Hirleman ◽  
...  

Wikis, freely editable collections of web pages, are showing potential for a flexible documentation and communication tool for collaborative design tasks. They also provide a medium that can be further transformed by properly understanding both the need for flexibility as well as support for design thinking early in the design process. The purpose of this work is to analyze the different dimensions of the wiki from a communication perspective as applicable to design. With a focus on communication in design, we will explore the advantages and disadvantages of using wikis in student engineering design teams. Our ultimate goal is to better support the design process while exploiting the potential for increasing the shared understanding among teams using a wiki. By introducing a wiki in a globally distributed product development course, students gain hands-on experience in using wikis as a design tool. Feedback from students will be collected through questionnaires and used to improve and transform the wiki as a support tool for communication during early design collaboration.


2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (13) ◽  
pp. 3581 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kozlowski ◽  
Bardecki ◽  
Searcy

Understanding the complexity of sustainable fashion issues can be overwhelming and a barrier for fashion designers. A number of tools for sustainable fashion design have been developed to aid designers in the integration of sustainability into their design practices. We analyze these to determine their fitness for purpose. Among them, three categories (archetypes) of tools are identified: Universal, Participatory, and Assessment. We propose an innovation framework and a five-dimensional model of sustainability specific to fashion to facilitate the analysis of the tools. Using the archetype categorization may facilitate designers in identifying the most appropriate type of tool for a specific circumstance, depending on context and need.


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