SUSTAINABILITY APPROACHES IN FASHION DESIGN IN THE COVID-19 PROCESS

The pandemic caused by Covid-19 virus, which emerged in Wuhan, China at the end of 2019 has caused changes in the production- consuption balances besides education, working environment and social life because of the full lockdown process. The increase in the time that is spent at home necessarily has caused people to question the concepts of damage to environment, waste, recycling and sustainability beside this, the fashion industry has been affected with its structure that encourages consuption, reflects change and temporary innovation. In this period the frequency of consumers' clothing purchases decreased, platforms selling second-handed products become more popular and fashion shows and fairs took place in digital platforms. The steps aimed at the conscious consumer for the use of organic and recyclable materials, recycling, and less water consumption, which started to be taken before the pandemic in the sector, gained speed with the introduction of digital technologies defined as industry 4.0. In the scope of the research, while the effects of the Covid-19 process on the fashion industry and design are disccused in the context of sustainability, it has been discussed what the positive and negative effects of sustainability moves which has increased its visibility. It is aimed that the study will contribute to sustainable development by drawing attention to the development of academic fashion literature and sustainable fashion as well as the other current studies in this field in the world. Keywords: sustainability, fashion and design, covid 19, digital fashion, sustainable fashion

SUSTAINABLE FASHION PADA BUSANA READY-TO-WEAR DENGAN TEKNIK ECOPRINT

AbstrakDewasa ini, produk fashion berkonsep ramah lingkungan, seperti eco fashion, menjadi salah satu daya tarik tersendiri bagi masyarakat. Filosofi eco fashion berkesinambungan dengan konsep produk yang berkelanjutan (sustainable product). Salah satu metoda pewarnaan yang dapat digunakan untuk memenuhi konsep eco fashion dan sustainable product adalah teknik eco printing. Pada penelitian ini digunakan teknik ecoprinting metoda pukul pada kain kapas yang telah dicelup dengan warna dasar menggunakan pewarna alami, kulit kayu tegeran. Proses pre-mordanting menggunakan zat kapur dan tawas dilakukan sebagai upaya untuk mencegah terjadinya kelunturan warna akibat penggunaan zat warna alam. Kain yang telah diproses ecoprinting kemudian di produksi menjadi 2 buah busana Ready-to-wear dengan tema neo medieval subtema dystopian fortress pada trend forecasting singularity 2019-2020. Survey kelayakan harga dilakukan berdasarkan uji kuantitatif sehingga didapatkan data bahwa sebanyak 55% - 80% responden menyatakan tertarik dengan model produk yang ditawarkan, 75 -77% responden merasa bahwa produk pertama dan kedua yang ditawarkan layak dihargai Rp 1.000.000 – Rp 1.500.000.

Three-Dimensional Printing Fashion Product Design with Emotional Durability Based on Korean Aesthetics

Given the potentially significant environmental impacts of fashion design, various design approaches are required to extend product lifespan. Digital design methods may play an essential role in reducing the environmental impact of products and production processes. In addition, a design approach inspired by nature, where humans have long lived, is valid for sustainable design innovation. The purpose of this study is to examine the aesthetics of Koreans, who prefer nature, and to find a sustainable fashion design approach by using it as a knowledge database. In this study, a parametric design methodology that can reflect knowledge-based data in the process of producing 3D printing sustainable fashion products, considering the emotional durability of consumers, was used. The study results are as follows. From the aesthetic point of view of Korea, sustainable design characteristics represent unique Korean folk art, resilience to nature, and simplicity that resembles nature. The properties of the form represented to “forms resembling nature”, “changeable forms”, “organic forms”, and “minimal forms”. Materials were “nature inspired textures”, “rustic natural materials”, and “regional materials”. Colors were “the colors of nature” and “indigenous colors”. The parametric controls variables used for 3D printing the fashion products were size, assembly style, and sustainable material. These control parameters were used to create designs according to the individual taste of users. In the 3D printing fashion product design process, pieces were printed in different shapes and sizes by controlling the parameters to create designs according to users’ tastes and Korean aesthetics. It was determined that this process could extend the lifespan of products, and that it is possible to modify sustainable fashion products according to personal taste by adjusting numerical values and extracting visual images based on knowledge of art and culture.

Fashion designers' attitude-behaviour inconsistencies towards a sustainable business model: a neutralisation theory perspective

PurposeFashion designers in South Africa remain ambivalent in embracing sustainable fashion. This study examines the role of neutralisation techniques on attitude towards sustainable fashion. The study was conducted in South Africa, an emerging market known for water scarcity and pollution emanating from the textile industry.Design/methodology/approachA structured questionnaire was used to collect cross-sectional data from a sample of 590 fashion designers using a web-based online survey. Study constructs were drawn from the neutralisation theory and theory of planned behaviour.FindingsStandard multiple regression analysis results identified denial of injury, appeal to higher loyalties and external locus of control as the major rationalisation techniques influencing South African designers' negative attitudes towards sustainable fashion.Research limitations/implicationsResearch was conducted in South Africa where the concept of sustainable fashion is still at developmental stages. The generalisation of the study findings may be enhanced by extending the study to other markets with a fully developed market for sustainable fashion.Practical implicationsThe study results underscore the necessity of reducing social, structural and institutional barriers associated with the adoption of sustainable fashion. This study provides input towards efforts to develop attitude change strategies to stimulate designers to embrace sustainable fashion.Originality/valueThe research study contributes to theory, practice and future research.

Superfast Synthesis of Stabilized Silver Nanoparticles Using Aqueous Allium sativum (Garlic) Extract and Isoniazid Hydrazide Conjugates: Molecular Docking and In-Vitro Characterizations

Green synthesis of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) was synthesized from fresh garlic extract coupled with isoniazid hydrazide (INH), a commonly used antibiotic to treat tuberculosis. A molecular docking study conducted with the selected compounds compared with anthranilate phosphoribosyltransferase (trpD) from Mycobacterium tuberculosis. The aqueous extract of garlic was prepared and mixed with silver nitrate (AgNO3) solution for the superfast synthesis of stable AgNPs. INH was then conjugated with AgNPs at different ratios (v/v) to obtain stable INH-AgNPs conjugates (AgNCs). The resulting AgNCs characterized by FTIR spectra revealed the ultrafast formation of AgNPs (<5 s) and perfectly conjugated with INH. The shifting of λmax to longer wavelength, as found from UV spectral analysis, confirmed the formation of AgNCs, among which ideal formulations (F7, F10, and F13) have been pre-selected. The zeta particle size (PS) and the zeta potential (ZP) of AgNPs were found to be 145.3 ± 2.1 nm and −33.1 mV, respectively. These data were significantly different compared to that of AgNCs (160 ± 2.7 nm and −14.4 mV for F7; 208.9 ± 2.9 nm and −19.8 mV for F10; and 281.3 ± 3.6 nm and −19.5 mV for F13), most probably due to INH conjugation. The results of XRD, SEM and EDX confirmed the formation of AgNCs. From UV spectral analysis, EE of INH as 51.6 ± 5.21, 53.6 ± 6.88, and 70.01 ± 7.11 %, for F7, F10, and F13, respectively. The stability of the three formulations was confirmed in various physiological conditions. Drug was released in a sustainable fashion. Besides, from the preferred 23 compounds, five compounds namely Sativoside R2, Degalactotigonin, Proto-desgalactotigonin, Eruboside B and Sativoside R1 showed a better docking score than trpD, and therefore may help in promoting anti-tubercular activity.

Fashion Business Sustainability for Fashion Designers in the Indonesian Fashion Industry

The fashion industry remains as one of the most highly competitive industries where many fashion designers may find it difficult to establish sustainable fashion businesses. Navigating through the fashion business and ensuring business success, growth and long-term sustainability were generally considered to be the ultimate goal and biggest challenge many fashion designers continue to struggle with. This study was aimed to determine all key factors that are integral and contribute to fashion business sustainability by presenting findings provided by three Indonesian fashion designer’s responses to the issue of fashion business sustainability, the various challenges, and what factors are needed to ensure a long lasting through semi-structured in-depth interviews. Overall findings revealed the need for fashion designers to have an entrepreneurial mindset and for fashion businesses to possess all sustainable business key factors in various aspects ranging from design, business and the various qualities from the fashion designer themselves, while also taking account of the external state which was set in the Indonesian fashion industry for business sustainability and organic business growth. Fashion designers who controls all these factors will have a significantly higher chance of sustainability while competing with other fashion businesses.