scholarly journals An Inquiry into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design

2022 ◽  
Vol 14 (1) ◽  
pp. 452
Author(s):  
Melanie Carrico ◽  
Sheri L. Dragoo ◽  
Ellen McKinney ◽  
Casey Stannard ◽  
Colleen Moretz ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Size Range ◽  
Product Category ◽  
Apparel Design ◽  
Zero Waste ◽  
Overall Design ◽  
Grading Scale ◽  
Pattern Development ◽  
Production Practices ◽  
The Aesthetic ◽  
Development Methods

The implementation of standardized grading production practices within the mass market has been challenging for scholars experimenting with zero-waste apparel design. The purpose of this research was to test the efficacy of the Carrico Zero-waste Banded Grading (CZWBG) technique, which utilizes bands inserted in strategic locations as a method of grading zero-waste patterns across various consumer categories. An additional purpose was to evaluate the ways in which this grading approach affected the aesthetic outcomes of garments across a size run, and to determine whether this method affected the overall design process of the designers involved. Through experimental research design, six design scholars successfully tested and incorporated the CZWBG technique in zero-waste one or two-piece apparel item(s), subsequently developing three sizes in an industry-specified size range for their product category. Each design was cut from zero-waste patterns in a mid-range size and graded up and down one–two sizes using an industry-standardized grading scale. The grading was achieved by varying the widths and lengths of strategically inserted bands of fabric or trim. The designers utilized various grading methods, textiles, pattern development methods, and size runs, showing that the CZWBG technique can successfully be applied across multiple consumer categories in the apparel industry.

Modeling of half-scale human bodies in active body positions for apparel design and testing

2017 ◽  
Vol 29 (6) ◽  
pp. 807-821 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arzu Vuruskan ◽  
Susan P. Ashdown
Keyword(s):  
Size Range ◽  
Test Validity ◽  
The Body ◽  
Apparel Design ◽  
Linear Measurements ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Fit Testing ◽  
Pattern Development ◽  
Novel Concept ◽  
Design And Testing

Purpose The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to investigate full body 3D scanning of active body poses in order to develop “watertight” digital models and half-scale dress forms to facilitate design, pattern making and fit analyses. Issues around creating a size set of scans in order to facilitate fit testing of activewear across a size range were also explored. Design/methodology/approach Researchers experimented to discover effective methods for 3D body capture in the cycling position and reconstruction of the body in a reliable way. In total, 25 cyclists were scanned and size representatives were selected from these participants. Methods of creating half-scale forms were developed that make optimum use of modern materials and technologies. Half-scale dress forms were created in two active positions in a range of sizes for fit testing and design. A set of half-scale and full-scale bike shorts in two styles were manufactured and fit tested on the half-scale forms compared to fit testing on the scan participants to test validity of this method of assessing fit. Findings Issues in capturing and reconstructing areas occluded in the scanning process, and reconstructing the interface with the bicycle seat were addressed. Active digital forms were developed across the size range, from which both digital avatars and physical mannequins were developed for pattern development and fit testing. The production and use of precisely half-scaled tools for garment testing was achieved and validated by comparing fit test results in active positions on the half-scale forms and on participants who were scanned to create these forms. Originality/value Design modifications for active positions to date are based on linear measurements alone, which do not define the 3D body adequately. Despite much research using body scanners, only limited data exist on the body in active poses, and the concept of creating half-scale forms by scanning fit models throughout the size range in active body positions is a novel concept. The progress made in resolving material and process experiments in creating the actual half-scale forms, and testing their suitability for fit testing provides a basis for further research aimed at developing similar dress forms for other activewear garments.

Beautiful Uselessness

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lloyd Whitesell
Keyword(s):  
Small Scale ◽  
Central Values ◽  
Overall Design ◽  
Special Cases ◽  
The Aesthetic ◽  
Musical Arrangement

This chapter explores special cases where glamour conventions demonstrate aestheticist values, that is, the exaltation of style for its own sake. At such times, the aesthetic intensity of glamour seems to offer an escape to a world of pure artifice, beauty, and style. The discussion identifies the central values of aestheticism as expressed in the high-art milieu and illustrates the same values at work in glamorous numbers. To analyze ultrastylishness in musical arrangement, it considers finesse on a small scale (e.g., contrapuntal ornamentation, textural and harmonic ingenuity) before turning to ingenuity of overall design in numbers such as “Dancing in the Dark,” from the film The Band Wagon, and “This Heart of Mine,” from Ziegfeld Follies.

Revisiting the relationship between art and industry in nineteenth-century Britain from the manufacturer’s perspective

2021 ◽  
Vol 30 (1) ◽  
pp. 31-52
Author(s):  
Ann Compton
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Industrial Sector ◽  
Critical Discourse ◽  
Drawing Board ◽  
Public Exposure ◽  
Production Practices ◽  
The Aesthetic ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
Two Sectors

The mid-nineteenth century critical discourse compartmentalized art and industry by crediting each with specific powers. Manufacturing was identified with the development of technologically advanced processes, materials and products, while fine artists were given authority over the aesthetic aspects of industrial design. The idea that the two sectors had separate areas of responsibility has proved extremely enduring, and continues to influence our perceptions of Victorian manufacturing. This article contributes to the wider task of re-evaluating the relationship between art and industry in nineteenth-century Britain by examining the role of design in potteries and art metalworking firms from the manufacturer’s perspective. It shows that contrary to the picture painted by Victorian critics, design was central to the ambitions and commercial operations of manufacturing businesses. Crucially, decisions about the recruitment of design staff were shaped by the close connection between the creation of new products at the drawing board, and their fabrication in the workshop. Since each branch of manufacturing had its distinctive characteristics, there were significant practical, aesthetic and commercial advantages for manufacturers in employing experienced designers who knew the trade, and were fully conversant with production practices. Unless a professional sculptor joined a firm, they were unlikely to have this inside knowledge, which made commissioning one-off designs from artists a riskier proposition. Manufacturers found that one of the best ways to get around this was to make reductions of sculptures, and initial demand for statuettes in Parian suggested they would be profitable for all concerned. In the end, the market did not live up to its early promise, but the publicity given to Parian statuettes compensated manufacturers and sculptors. Overall, it was this increased public exposure for art manufactures that was the prime benefit of the mid-nineteenth century critical discourse for the industrial sector.

scholarly journals Aesthetic Proximity

2016 ◽  
Vol 5 (9) ◽  
pp. 93 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jolien Van Keulen
Keyword(s):  
Visual Medium ◽  
Production Practices ◽  
The Aesthetic

Implications of the transnationalisation of television are often studied by focusing on the localisation of the content of formatted programmes. Although television is essentially an audio-visual medium, little attention has been paid to the aesthetic aspects of television texts in relation to transnationalisation and formatting. Transnationalisation of production practices, such as through formatting, implies a transnational aesthetic. At the same time, aspects of style are specific to place, culture or audience. In this article, the localisation of stylistic programme elements is explored using a comparison of two reality format adaptations. It is argued that style plays an important role in the expression of the local in a transnational industry.

Steam Reactivation of FB Spent Sorbent for Enhanced SO2 Capture: The Relationship Between Microstructural Properties and Sulphur Uptake

2005 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fabio Montagnaro ◽  
Fabrizio Scala ◽  
Fabio Pallonetto ◽  
Piero Salatino
Keyword(s):  
Size Range ◽  
Attrition Rate ◽  
Microstructural Properties ◽  
Hydration Degree ◽  
Particle Size Range ◽  
So2 Capture ◽  
Pattern Development ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
Accessible Porosity ◽  
Sulphur Uptake

This paper addresses the regeneration of the sulphur capture ability of FB spent SO2 sorbent particles by steam hydration. The process was characterized in terms of hydration degree, particle sulphation pattern, development of accessible porosity and extent of particle fragmentation. Steam reactivation experiments were carried out in a lab-scale fluidized bed reactor at 250°C for 10 and 30 minutes, and 3h. The sorbent particle size range was 0.4–0.6mm, and the bed was fluidized at 0.2m/s with a steam-N2 mixture. The effectiveness of sorbent reactivation was assessed by reinjecting the reactivated material into the FB reactor (fluidized at 0.8m/s) operated at 850°C under simulated desulphurization conditions (the fluidizing gas consisted of a SO2-O2-N2 mixture), and following the degree of calcium conversion and the attrition rate along with resulphation. The experimental results indicated that steam reactivation is effective in renewing the SO2 uptake ability of the exhausted sorbent particles. Moreover steam reactivation induces, in the samples investigated, a strong sulphur redistribution throughout the particle cross-section, which contributes to the enhancement of the sulphur capture ability of the reactivated sorbent.

Products labeled as “made in domestic country”: the brand matters

2020 ◽  
Vol 54 (12) ◽  
pp. 2965-2987
Author(s):  
Yohan Bernard ◽  
Véronique Collange ◽  
Aurore Ingarao ◽  
Sarra Zarrouk-Karoui
Keyword(s):  
Brand Equity ◽  
Positive Impact ◽  
Country Of Origin ◽  
Product Category ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Overall Design ◽  
Foreign Brand ◽  
Positive Effect ◽  
Made In

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to better understand an increasingly widespread practice consisting, of a brand, in signaling the domestic origin of its products aimed at domestic consumers, that is, the “made in the domestic country” (MIDC) strategy. To this end, it is proposed to analyze the MIDC label as a cue interacting with the brand’s characteristics (brand equity and country of origin of the brand). Design/methodology/approach A between-subjects experiment is conducted among 293 French consumers on four different brands of pasta. The overall design is a 2 (with/without the MIDC label) × 2 (high/low brand equity) × 2 (domestic/foreign brand) mixed design. Findings The results show that intention to buy the product increases significantly with the presence of the MIDC label, but not so willing to pay. The positive effect on buying intention is greater when: the product has rather low brand equity, consumer ethnocentrism is high and/or consumers are strongly attached to their national identity. Research limitations/implications The present research extends the literature on country-of-origin effects by taking into account the role of the brand equity of the product. However, the study focused on only one low-involvement product category (pasta) and one country (France). Practical implications This study shows that adding an MIDC label to the product is empirically justified. Originality/value While moderate or high scores on “patriotic” variables reinforce the positive impact of the MIDC label, low scores reverse the trend, that is, cause rejection.

Development and Validation of a Clinical Grading Scale to Assess the Vulvar Region: The Vulvar Architecture Severity Scale

2020 ◽  
Vol 40 (12) ◽  
pp. 1319-1326
Author(s):  
Aurora Almadori ◽  
Nicole Zenner ◽  
Deborah Boyle ◽  
Victoria Swale ◽  
Wendy Reid ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
High Reliability ◽  
Intraclass Correlation ◽  
Correlation Coefficients ◽  
Lichen Sclerosus ◽  
Severity Scale ◽  
Level Of Evidence ◽  
Disease Extent ◽  
Aesthetic Unit ◽  
Grading Scale ◽  
The Aesthetic

Abstract Background The vulva is composed of aesthetic units that can be affected differently by vulvar conditions. A reliable, comprehensive, and quick-to-use clinical scoring system is required to assess the disease extent in the vulvar area. Objectives The aim of this study was to develop and validate a grading scale based on the aesthetic unit principle to evaluate the extent of vulvar lichen sclerosus (VLS). Methods After reviewing photographs of 100 patients affected by VLS, the authors targeted the aesthetic units most frequently affected. The disease signs were recorded and graded in 4 levels of severity (none, mild, moderate, severe) taking into account the vulvar architecture and skin involvement. To validate the scale, 14 observers were asked to apply it to photographs of 25 VLS patients on 2 different occasions. Intra- and inter-observer reliabilities were determined employing Pearson’s and intraclass correlation coefficients. Results A 6-region, 4-point grading system was designed and identified as the Vulvar Architecture Severity Scale (VASS). In all 6 areas, the Pearson’s r was greater than 0.9 (mean, 0.994; 95% confidence interval [CI] = 0.992), indicating that the intra-observer reliability of the VASS was consistent over time (P < 0.001). Intraclass correlation at time 1 was 0.928 (95% CI = 0.910, 0.943) and at time 2 was 0.944 (95% CI = 0.931, 0.996), indicating a high reliability level among different observers. Conclusions The VASS is a reliable scale to assess the severity of VLS, and it might be considered as an outcome measure in future VLS trials. Level of Evidence: 4

scholarly journals TECHNICAL INTEGRATION AND ITS ROLE IN THE FORMAL DISPLAY OF INTERIOR DESIGN

2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
D: Salah Al-Din Qadir Ahmed
Keyword(s):  
Interior Design ◽  
The Other ◽  
Overall Design ◽  
The Social ◽  
Building Systems ◽  
Interactive Relationship ◽  
Design Idea ◽  
The Aesthetic ◽  
The One ◽  
Design Construction

The art of designing decoration in terms of aesthetics and its expressive symbolic connotations is mainly related to interior designs and its values based on formal relationships expressing its intellectual peculiarity in employment, as each of the designs is a mirror of a need and its tastes is not individual in itself, but according to an interactive relationship between the designer and the recipient on the one hand and between society As a whole . Through the formal appearance and content of artistic taste and design philosophy and the extent of the influence and influence of each on the other, especially that the interior designs are clearly subject to and affected by the social and economic environment and the development in the technical field, which formed as motives that gave the designer the ability to devise and innovate new systems resulting from his self-sensitivity to the components From which it derives the design idea In addition to its cultural and philosophical level, which are components and motives that depend on it in the design application, whether in the formations of the foundations and elements and their decorative aspects, they are basically linked to the need for new designs ranging from functional necessity to aesthetic necessity based on constructive relationships of shapes and building systems that support Its objective properties. Based on the foregoing, and through the researcher's review of a set of designs, he found that there is a problem standing in front of the concept of relationships that is taken away and the other by approaching the design construction in terms of structural relations and linkage and the meaning of integration based on the aesthetic and expressive dimensions and the need for compatibility with the functional goal If we take into account the concept of the resulting relationships and the investigator of aesthetic, expressive and functional values in the overall design achievement, and through that, the problem

scholarly journals Validating Grading of Aesthetic Outcomes of Web Space Reconstruction for Finger Syndactyly: Crowdsourcing Public Perceptions Using Amazon Mechanical Turk

2020 ◽  
Vol 3 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Cory K Mayfield ◽  
Ian Thomas ◽  
Orr Shauly ◽  
Daniel J Gould ◽  
Mitchel Seruya
Keyword(s):  
Skin Grafting ◽  
Public Perceptions ◽  
Amazon Mechanical Turk ◽  
Vas Scores ◽  
Grading Scale ◽  
Advancement Flaps ◽  
Web Space ◽  
The Aesthetic ◽  
A Prospective Study ◽  
Future Practice

Abstract Background It has recently been attempted in the literature to analyze the aesthetic outcomes of syndactyly web space reconstruction utilizing dorsal pentagonal advancement flaps and dorsal rectangular flaps with skin grafting. The study utilized a categorical grading system for evaluating the aesthetic outcomes of reconstruction to be used in conjunction with a visual analog scale (VAS), which has yet to be validated in the assessment of aesthetic outcomes following web space reconstruction. Objectives To utilize crowdsourced public perceptions to validate the grading of aesthetic outcomes in web space reconstruction for finger syndactyly. Methods A prospective study was conducted of random volunteers recruited through an internet crowdsourcing service to gain responses for a survey to analyze patient opinions toward the aesthetic outcomes of web space reconstruction. Outcomes were graded based on descriptions of the appearance, color, matte, and distortion of the reconstruction. Results The excellent dorsal flap demonstrated a mean VAS score of 6.66 (95% confidence interval [CI] = 6.45-6.87), and the very good, good, and poor dorsal flaps had mean VAS scores of 5.94 (95% CI = 5.73-6.15), 4.98 (95% CI = 4.77-5.19), and 3.55 (95% CI = 3.31-3.79), respectively. The odds ratio for receiving an excellent rating was 4.21 (95% CI = 3.04-5.82) for excellent dorsal flap with P < 0.0001. Conclusions This study confirms and validates the assessment of aesthetic outcomes of web space reconstruction by the Yuan Grading Scale. This evidence may guide future practice such that recommendations can be made to align with the aesthetic preferences of the patient.

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