Structural and biophysical characteristics of human skin in maintaining proper epidermal barrier function

A competent epidermal barrier is crucial for terrestrial mammals. This barrier must keep in water and prevent entry of noxious stimuli. Most importantly, the epidermis must also be a barrier to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from the sunlight. Currently, the effects of ultraviolet radiation on epidermal barrier function are poorly understood. However, studies in mice and more limited work in humans suggest that the epidermal barrier becomes more permeable, as measured by increased transepidermal water loss, in response UVR, at doses sufficiently high to induce erythema. The mechanisms may include disturbance in the organisation of lipids in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis) and reduction in tight junction function in the granular layer (the first living layer of the skin). By contrast, suberythemal doses of UVR appear to have positive effects on epidermal barrier function. Topical sunscreens have direct and indirect protective effects on the barrier through their ability to block UV and also due to their moisturising or occlusive effects, which trap water in the skin, respectively. Some topical agents such as specific botanical extracts have been shown to prevent the loss of water associated with high doses of UVR. In this review, we discuss the current literature and suggest that the biology of UVR-induced barrier dysfunction, and the use of topical products to protect the barrier, are areas worthy of further investigation.

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Direct evidence that omega-hydroxy ceramides are important for epidermal barrier function

Journal of Dermatological Science ◽

10.1016/s0923-1811(98)83201-5 ◽

1998 ◽

Vol 16 ◽

pp. S34 ◽

Cited By ~ 1

Author(s):

Martin Behne ◽

Yoshikazu Uchida ◽

Taisuke Seki ◽

Peter M. Elias ◽

Walter M. Holleran

Keyword(s):

Barrier Function ◽

Direct Evidence ◽

Epidermal Barrier

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Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function

Clinics in Dermatology ◽

10.1016/j.clindermatol.2011.08.015 ◽

2012 ◽

Vol 30 (3) ◽

pp. 286-296 ◽

Cited By ~ 71

Author(s):

Marie Lodén

Keyword(s):

Barrier Function ◽

Epidermal Barrier

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Improved epidermal barrier formation in human skin models by chitosan modulated dermal matrices

PLoS ONE ◽

10.1371/journal.pone.0174478 ◽

2017 ◽

Vol 12 (3) ◽

pp. e0174478 ◽

Cited By ~ 12

Author(s):

Arnout Mieremet ◽

Marion Rietveld ◽

Samira Absalah ◽

Jeroen van Smeden ◽

Joke A. Bouwstra ◽

...

Keyword(s):

Human Skin ◽

Epidermal Barrier ◽

Barrier Formation ◽

Dermal Matrices ◽

Human Skin Models

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Assessment of Human Skin Gene Expression by Different Blends of Plant Extracts with Implications to Periorbital Skin Aging

International Journal of Molecular Sciences ◽

10.3390/ijms19113349 ◽

2018 ◽

Vol 19 (11) ◽

pp. 3349 ◽

Cited By ~ 3

Author(s):

Jin Namkoong ◽

Dale Kern ◽

Helen Knaggs

Keyword(s):

Oxidative Stress ◽

Gene Expression ◽

Human Skin ◽

Barrier Function ◽

Skin Barrier ◽

Skin Aging ◽

Skin Barrier Function ◽

Oxidative Stress Biomarkers ◽

Stress Biomarkers ◽

And Oxidative Stress

Since the skin is the major protective barrier of the body, it is affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Environmental influences such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, pollution or dry/cold air are involved in the generation of radical oxygen species (ROS) and impact skin aging and dermal health. Assessment of human skin gene expression and other biomarkers including epigenetic factors are used to evaluate the biological/molecular activities of key compounds in cosmetic formulas. The objective of this study was to quantify human gene expression when epidermal full-thickness skin equivalents were exposed to: (a) a mixture of betaine, pentylene glycol, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Rhodiola rosea root extract (BlendE) for antioxidant, skin barrier function and oxidative stress (with hydrogen peroxide challenge); and (b) a mixture of Narcissus tazetta bulb extract and Schisandra chinensis fruit extract (BlendIP) for various biomarkers and microRNA analysis. For BlendE, several antioxidants, protective oxidative stress biomarkers and many skin barrier function parameters were significantly increased. When BlendE was evaluated, the negative impact of the hydrogen peroxide was significantly reduced for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMP 3 and MMP 12), the skin aging and oxidative stress biomarkers, namely FBN2, ANXA1 and HGF. When BlendIP was tested for cell proliferation and dermal structural components to enhance the integrity of the skin around the eyes: 8 growth factors, 7 signaling, 7 structural/barrier function and 7 oxidative stress biomarkers were significantly increased. Finally, when BlendIP was tested via real-time RT-PCR for microRNA expression: miR-146a, miR-22, miR155, miR16 and miR21 were all significantly increased over control levels. Therefore, human skin gene expression studies are important tools to assess active ingredient compounds such as plant extract blends to advance dermal hypotheses toward validating cosmetic formulations with botanical molecules.

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