scholarly journals A Numerical Technique to Estimate Water Depths from Remotely Sensed Water Wave Characteristics

2013 ◽  
Vol 2013 ◽  
pp. 1-6
Author(s):  
K. M. Fassieh
Keyword(s):  
Water Wave ◽  
Numerical Technique ◽  
Remotely Sensed ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Linear Dispersion ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Relative Errors ◽  
Water Depths

This paper describes a numerical technique to estimate water depths from remotely sensed water wave characteristics. Two depth inversion models have been developed based on both linear and nonlinear dispersion relations. A simplified technique to get wave height distribution from remotely sensed water surface elevations is presented. Synthetic input data are generated using a refraction-diffraction numerical model. In intermediate water depths, there is good agreement between actual and estimated depths (relative errors are of order 10%). It is shown that depth inversion using linear dispersion relation overestimates water depth near shoreline. The nonlinear model is seen to improve the inverted depth by 10% and could retrieve two-dimensional depth profile.

An Experimental Study of Shallow Water Wave Statistics on Mild Bed Slopes

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Vasiliki Katsardi ◽  
Chris Swan
Keyword(s):  
Water Depth ◽  
Measured Data ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Statistical Distributions ◽  
Spectral Bandwidth ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Wave Statistics ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Bed Slope ◽  
Water Depths

This paper describes a new series of laboratory observations, undertaken in a purpose built wave flume, in which a number of scaled simulations of realistic ocean spectra were allowed to evolve over a range of mild bed slopes. The purpose of the study was to examine the distribution of wave heights and its dependence on the local water depth, d, the local bed slope, m, and the nature of the input spectrum; the latter considering variations in the spectral peak period, Tp, the spectral bandwidth and the wave steepness. The results of the study show that for mild bed slopes the statistical distributions of wave heights are effectively independent of both the bed slope and the spectral bandwidth. However, the peak period plays a very significant role in the sense that it alters the effective water depth. Following detailed comparisons with the measured data, the statistical distributions for wave heights in relatively deep water are found to be in reasonable agreement with the Forristall [1] and Glukhovskii [2] distributions. For intermediate water depths, the Battjes & Groenendijk [3] distribution works very well. However, for the shallowest water depths none of the existing distributions provides good agreement with the measured data; all leading to an over-estimate of the largest wave heights.

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS ON NONLINEAR WAVE COMBINATION

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
J.T. Juang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Taiwan Strait ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Source Wave ◽  
The Waves

Due to the special bathymetry in Taiwan Strait, the waves off the western coast of Taiwan are considered to be composed of two-source wave system. One propagates from the central part of the Strait named main wave, and the other is generated by the local wind known as local wave which occurs along the shore. After the combination and the transformation procedure from these two-nonlinear-source wave system, the wave height distribution in Taiwan Strait should be modified. A comparison of the wave height distributions based on the present proposed method with the field data indicates that the present method yields a better result than other theorems. Furthermore, the result of application of two non-linear wave theorem to wave prediction are also presented.

scholarly journals Links of the significant wave height distribution in the Mediterranean sea with the Northern Hemisphere teleconnection patterns

2008 ◽  
Vol 17 ◽  
pp. 13-18 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Lionello ◽  
M. B. Galati
Keyword(s):  
Mediterranean Sea ◽  
Northern Hemisphere ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
East Atlantic ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Teleconnection Patterns ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
The Mediterranean

Abstract. This study analyzes the link between the SWH (Significant Wave Height) distribution in the Mediterranean Sea during the second half of the 20th century and the Northern Hemisphere SLP (Sea Level Pressure) teleconnection patterns. The SWH distribution is computed using the WAM (WAve Model) forced by the surface wind fields provided by the ERA-40 reanalysis for the period 1958–2001. The time series of mid-latitude teleconnection patterns are downloaded from the NOAA web site. This study shows that several mid-latitude patterns are linked to the SWH field in the Mediterranean, especially in its western part during the cold season: East Atlantic Pattern (EA), Scandinavian Pattern (SCA), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), East Atlantic/West Russia Pattern (EA/WR) and East Pacific/ North Pacific Pattern (EP/NP). Though the East Atlantic pattern exerts the largest influence, it is not sufficient to characterize the dominant variability. NAO, though relevant, has an effect smaller than EA and comparable to other patterns. Some link results from possibly spurious structures. Patterns which have a very different global structure are associated to similar spatial features of the wave variability in the Mediterranean Sea. These two problems are, admittedly, shortcomings of this analysis, which shows the complexity of the response of the Mediterranean SWH to global scale SLP teleconnection patterns.

scholarly journals Laboratory investigation of crest height statistics in intermediate water depths

2019 ◽  
Vol 475 (2229) ◽  
pp. 20190183 ◽  
Author(s):  
I. Karmpadakis ◽  
C. Swan ◽  
M. Christou
Keyword(s):  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Full Range ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Nonlinear Amplification ◽  
Effective Water ◽  
Water Depths

This paper concerns the statistical distribution of the crest heights associated with surface waves in intermediate water depths. The results of a new laboratory study are presented in which data generated in different experimental facilities are used to establish departures from commonly applied statistical distributions. Specifically, the effects of varying sea-state steepness, effective water depth and directional spread are investigated. Following an extensive validation of the experimental data, including direct comparisons to available field data, it is shown that the nonlinear amplification of crest heights above second-order theory observed in steep deep water sea states is equally appropriate to intermediate water depths. These nonlinear amplifications increase with the sea-state steepness and reduce with the directional spread. While the latter effect is undoubtedly important, the present data confirm that significant amplifications above second order (5–10%) are observed for realistic directional spreads. This is consistent with available field data. With further increases in the sea-state steepness, the dissipative effects of wave breaking act to reduce these nonlinear amplifications. While the competing mechanisms of nonlinear amplification and wave breaking are relevant to a full range of water depths, the relative importance of wave breaking increases as the effective water depth reduces.

scholarly journals Genesis and Evolution of Ferromanganese Crusts from the Summit of Rio Grande Rise, Southwest Atlantic Ocean

Minerals ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 10 (4) ◽  
pp. 349 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mariana Benites ◽  
James R. Hein ◽  
Kira Mizell ◽  
Terrence Blackburn ◽  
Luigi Jovane
Keyword(s):  
Atlantic Ocean ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Column ◽  
Rio Grande ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Mode Water ◽  
Southwest Atlantic ◽  
Ferromanganese Crusts ◽  
Depositional Processes ◽  
Water Depths

The Rio Grande Rise (RGR) is a large elevation in the Atlantic Ocean and known to host potential mineral resources of ferromanganese crusts (Fe–Mn), but no investigation into their general characteristics have been made in detail. Here, we investigate the chemical and mineralogical composition, growth rates and ages of initiation, and phosphatization of relatively shallow-water (650–825 m) Fe–Mn crusts dredged from the summit of RGR by using computed tomography, X-ray diffraction, 87Sr/86Sr ratios, U–Th isotopes, and various analytical techniques to determine their chemical composition. Fe–Mn crusts from RGR have two distinct generations. The older one has an estimated age of initiation around 48–55 Ma and was extensively affected by post-depositional processes under suboxic conditions resulting in phosphatization during the Miocene (from 20 to 6.8 Ma). As a result, the older generation shows characteristics of diagenetic Fe–Mn deposits, such as low Fe/Mn ratios (mean 0.52), high Mn, Ni, and Li contents and the presence of a 10 Å phyllomanganate, combined with the highest P content among crusts (up to 7.7 wt %). The younger generation is typical of hydrogenetic crusts formed under oxic conditions, with a mean Fe/Mn ratio of 0.75 and mean Co content of 0.66 wt %, and has the highest mean contents of Bi, Nb, Ni, Te, Rh, Ru, and Pt among crusts formed elsewhere. The regeneration of nutrients from local biological productivity in the water column is the main source of metals to crusts, providing mainly metals that regenerate rapidly in the water column and are made available at relatively shallow water depths (Ni, As, V, and Cd), at the expense of metals of slower regeneration (Si and Cu). Additionally, important contributions of nutrients may derive from various water masses, especially the South Atlantic Mode Water and Antarctic Intermediate Water (AAIW). Bulk Fe–Mn crusts from the summit of RGR plateau are generally depleted in metals considered of greatest economic interest in crusts like Co, REE, Mo, Te, and Zr, but are the most enriched in the critical metals Ni and Li compared to other crusts. Further investigations are warranted on Fe–Mn crusts from deeper-water depths along the RGR plateau and surrounding areas, which would less likely be affected by phosphatization.

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