The Influence of Textile Materials Mechanical Properties upon Virtual Garment Fit

1970 ◽  
Vol 17 (2) ◽  
pp. 160-167 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kristina ANCUTIENĖ ◽  
Dovilė SINKEVIČIŪTĖ

3D virtual representation of garment provides high potential for design, product development and marketing processes, especially in mass customization strategies implementation. Clothing industry rapidly turns to virtual simulation which not only presents realistic 3D view of garment but also simulates mechanical behaviour of materials. 3D CAD systems can be used to define strain distribution in virtual garment which describes garment fit without actually producing the garment. Strain and distance ease between body and garment depends not only upon body measurements and garment construction, but also on mechanical and structural properties of selected material. The aim of this research was to investigate virtual garment fit using "Modaris 3D Fit" (Lectra) software subjected to fabrics mechanical (tensile, bending, shear) and structural (composition, thickness, area density) properties investigating strain distribution in garment and distance ease between garment and human body. It was defined that for diagonal cut garments the highest influence upon garment fit has fabric tensile properties in weft direction. The highest influence is obtained at high distance ease and small strain values zones and at negative distance ease and high strain values zones. Therefore, presented method could be used for tight-fitted garments also for garments with draperies on purpose to investigate garment fit upon fabrics used.http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.17.2.486

2016 ◽  
Vol 35 (1) ◽  
pp. 16-32 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ellen McKinney ◽  
Simeon Gill ◽  
Amy Dorie ◽  
Shannon Roth

The authors of this study explored (a) body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships in trouser patterns drafted by two methods; (b) the consistency of these body-to-pattern relationships between methods and between differently shaped bodies within methods; (c) the patternmaking procedures that cause these outcomes; and (d) how these findings impact garment fit, particularly for mass customization. Body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships were inconsistent between and within methods, making them unsuitable for use in computer-aided custom patternmaking. Most strikingly, pattern crotch shapes were similar within each method, despite the fact that form crotch shapes were different. Patternmaking procedures causing these inconsistencies include (a) use of proportion of noncorresponding body measurements; (b) use of standard, rather than body, measurements; (c) variations in ease as proportions or standard amounts; (d) trueing, blending, and connecting steps; (e) variation between methods of measurements used, in use of proportions or standard measurements, and in steps; and (h) disregard of body shape.


2019 ◽  
Vol 89 (23-24) ◽  
pp. 5238-5251
Author(s):  
Blaženka Brlobašić Šajatović ◽  
Slavenka Petrak ◽  
Maja Mahnić Naglić

The aim of this study was to determine differences in body proportions and measurements of basketball players and an untrained group of the general population, as well as the impact of physical differences on garment fit through the Croatian sizing system for labeling men's clothing based on the European standard EN 13402. It was hypothesized that clothes made according to the system for labeling men's clothing are not appropriate for the population of basketball players. Differences in morphological properties of the basketball players, as a result of many years of active sport playing, were found both by conventional anthropometric measurement method and three-dimensional (3D) body scanning. Anthropometric measurements were taken for the needs of the clothing industry according to ISO 3635, ISO 8559 and ISO 20685. The study was conducted on a sample of 189 male test subjects, aged between 15 and 25 years, who are professional basketball players and sample of a 189 test subjects for the untrained group of the general population of the same age. Statistical data results included factor and discriminate analysis. Differences in the body measurements of basketball players and the untrained group of the general population were analyzed through an independent samples t-test. Considering that differences in the upper body part have a large impact on garment fit, compared to the average body measurements, that is, the existing clothing sizing system, a proposal for the amendment of the sizing system for basketball players, with average body measurements by size, was made. In addition, for the purposes of the study, 20 anthropometric variables related to the upper body part and required for the clothing construction were analyzed. In order to test the garment fit, two men's shirt prototypes of the same garment size, one based on the existing sizing systems and one based on the proposed amendment for basketball players, were developed using a two-dimensional/3D computer-aided design system. Computer simulations performed on the average basketball player body model showed the unsuitable fit of a men's shirt constructed according to the existing sizing system and the satisfying fit of a men's shirt constructed according to measurements of the proposed amendment for basketball players, confirming the possible application of the conducted research results and the proposed sizing amendment.


2010 ◽  
Vol 139-141 ◽  
pp. 1535-1539
Author(s):  
Jian Xin Qiu ◽  
Yan Qiu Xu ◽  
Man Zhang

Use of digitization clothing technology, the customer demand information flow of mass customization for clothing industry was analyzed. The mathematical mapping ways which can be identified by system from these demands were proposed. Combination with three specific process of customization, design, production of mass customization for clothing industry, the information conversion technologies were studied, respectively, from customer demand to orders, from orders to design program ,and from design program to clothing . The customization system configuration in the clothing industry was designed on the basis of Web. The information conversion and systems integration were achieved by PDM.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Julia Wilfling ◽  
George Havenith ◽  
Margherita Raccuglia ◽  
Simon Hodder

Purpose Sports garments play an important role in the well-being of an athlete by protecting the wearer from changing environmental conditions and providing a comfortable feel. Clothing requirements have changed in recent years and demand for apparel with a higher comfort performance has been rising. Hence, the purpose of this study is to explore consumers’ expectations and perception of comfort and to examine how different textiles are perceived by consumers to provide useful knowledge that allows to engineer comfort into fabrics and sports garments. Design/methodology/approach This online survey comprised 292 respondents, classified by sex, age, nationality and physical activity. The respondents were asked a total of 18 questions through the Bristol Online Survey tool to explore expectation, perception and preference of clothing comfort, specifically of sportswear. Findings Fit and comfort are closely linked together, both forming part of the clothing comfort concept. When purchasing garments online, the haptics of fabrics were identified as a crucial missing parameter. However, priorities of attributes within the concept varied according to the person’s sex and nationality. Women put more emphasis on garment fit and showed a higher need for tactile input, whereas men prioritised physiological comfort descriptors, i.e. properties which facilitate thermoregulation. Furthermore, there is an increased importance of physiological comfort parameters for people exercising for 10 or more hours per week. Finally, it was possible to identify common associations and preferences for textile materials (cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester blend and wool). However, consideration should be taken concerning sex and nationality. Originality/value Sex and nationality are parameters modulating the clothing comfort concept and the conceptualised feel of materials. Therefore, the sex and nationality of the end-consumer should be considered during the development phase of sports garments and particular attention should be given to the targeted market in which these will be sold.


2018 ◽  
Vol 25 (3) ◽  
pp. 431-443 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mariana Correa do Amaral ◽  
Welton Fernando Zonatti ◽  
Karine Liotino da Silva ◽  
Dib Karam Junior ◽  
João Amato Neto ◽  
...  

Abstract Textile products are present in all aspects of our lives and drive a significant part of the world economy. Issues related to enterprise competitiveness, sustainability, limitation of natural resources, environmental and social impacts are increasingly considered. In this context, the recovery and recycling of textile materials are essential. This study aimed to present an overview of the Brazilian textile and clothing industry, highlighting the mechanical and chemical recycling processes and reuse. We also discuss the reasons for importing textile waste, and considerations about circular economy concepts, correlating them to the key factors and obstacles involving industrial operation of textile recycling. The authors conducted technical visits to textile recycling industries in order to observe the production processes and identify their main challenges. Nevertheless, the initiatives show that Brazil is on track for industrial sustainability, following a global production trend.


2019 ◽  
pp. 152808371987700
Author(s):  
Simona Vasile ◽  
Joris Cools ◽  
Alexandra De Raeve ◽  
Benny Malengier ◽  
Frank Deruyck

Sportswear should fit well each individual athlete while preserving its ergonomic and pressure comfort upon sport-specific movements. This study aims to quantify the effect of two rowing postures on selected body measurements and skin–sportswear interface pressure for competitive rowers of age 18–35. The results based on average body measurements of a total number of 74 male and female rowers indicate a considerable influence of the catch and finish posture on both body measurements and interface skin–sportswear pressure, regardless of the gender. Back length and across back width were the most affected by posture, and increased especially from the static to catch position by 12% (6.1 cm) and 16% (6.5 cm) for male rowers, and respectively by 11% (4.9 cm) and 13% (4.7 cm) for female rowers. In general, the posture led to the larger influence on pressure than on anthropometrics of maximum 55% versus 16% for male and up to 82% versus 13% for female rowers, respectively. The maximum interface pressure (e.g. 10 mmHg) was rather low, which suggest there was no pressure discomfort. Prototypes were developed and the fit of garments was investigated in various postures. For the considered fabrics and design, an increase of the garment pattern to accommodate the catch maximum changes led to a poor fit of the prototype MR58-CP, which was generally too large, especially in the static posture. On the contrary, prototype MR58-FP that considered some finish rowing posture-related body changes and design adjustments based on experience with the first prototype and input from the test person had the best fit.


2002 ◽  
Vol 48 (163) ◽  
pp. 601-610 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christopher J. L. Wilson ◽  
Hadi M. Sim

AbstractUsing a series of combined compression–simple-shear experiments, it has been possible to investigate strain distributions and crystal-orientation fabrics related to varying layer orientation in ice. A variety of flattening strains accompanied by layer buckling, simple shear and the development of a lenticular layering are produced in anisotropic ice masses. In samples where the creep curve has only just reached a minimum strain rate, the c-axis preferred orientation is similar to that in the starting material, with specific c-axis concentrations affected by the extent of preserved host grains. At shear strains where γ ≤ 1, it was found that the c-axis preferred orientations were highly variable depending on the magnitude of strain, strain distribution and upon the modification and degree of rotation of initial c-axis preferred orientation. However, once recrystallization dominates in high-strain zones (γ ≥ 1), there is a rapid development of an asymmetric two-maxima fabric with little evidence of any contributions from inherited fabric elements. The final c-axis pattern is asymmetric with respect to the direction of shortening, with a strong maximum at ∼80° to the shear zone, with a sense of asymmetry in the direction of the shear, and a secondary maximum lying at ∼50° to the plane of shearing.


2016 ◽  
Vol 684 ◽  
pp. 74-79 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fedor V. Grechnikov ◽  
Alexander I. Khaimovich

This paper presents a method for acquiring true stress–strain curves using engineering strain curves obtained from upset forging of cylindrical specimens. The main problem deals with determination the true strain in upset hot forging on hummers when the values of strain rates are differ in the range from 0 to 10-3s. At such strain rates due to wave processes strain distribution in cylindrical specimen will be uneven. The purpose of this publication is to analytically determine the strain distribution in compressed cylindrical specimen.


2017 ◽  
Vol 88 (18) ◽  
pp. 2093-2103 ◽  
Author(s):  
Inga Audzevičiūtė-Liutkienė ◽  
Vitalija Masteikaitė ◽  
Milda Jucienė ◽  
Virginija Sacevičienė ◽  
Vaida Dobilaitė

Textile fabric deformability during garment wear is a very important property as it influences performance conditions, the wearer’s comfort and the aesthetic view of the garment. Deformation of material in the garment depends on the clothing construction, anatomical features and physical activity of the wearer and garment fit. This paper presents an investigation of knitted fabrics and the deformation of their assembly peculiarities, considering the complex behavior of textile materials during wear using the Y-shaped specimen method. The fabric element partially experienced force affects in respective garment areas. In this case, several deformation types appear at the same type. In our research the special shaped specimen of form “Y” was used to performing the uniaxial tensile test to simulate this phenomenon. According to this method, longitudinal, transversal and angular characteristics describing the deformation of textile materials and their stitched systems were determined. It was found that after the extension indicator of angular deformation has changed the most, the amount of change reached up to 70%. In the Y-shaped knitted specimens, the seam significantly influences the size of the tensile force. Also, the changes of angle indicator, when the specimens are joined with seams, are obvious and reach 50%.


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