scholarly journals LONGSHORE TRANSPORT OF SAND

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 18 ◽  
Author(s):  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
Paul D. Komar ◽  
Anthony J. Bowen
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Wave Power ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Wave Conditions

Simultaneous field measurements of the energy flux of breaking waves and the resulting longshore transport of sand in the surf zone have been made along three beaches and for a variety of wave conditions. The measurements indicate that the longshore transport rate of sand is directly proportional to the longshore component of wave power.

scholarly journals FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND MODELLING OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS AT A HIGH-ENERGY GEOLOGICALLY-CONSTRAINED BEACH

2020 ◽  
pp. 18
Author(s):  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Vincent Marieu
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Forcing ◽  
Circulation Patterns ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Nearshore Currents ◽  
Set Up

We present field measurements of nearshore currents at a high-energy mesotidal beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave forcing and tide elevation were found to largely impact circulation patterns. In particular, under 4-m oblique wave conditions, our measurements indicate the presence of an intense low-frequency fluctuating deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone. An XBeach model is further set up to hindcast such flow patterns.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/EiqnjBIkWJE

scholarly journals TIME DOMAIN COMPARISONS OF MEASURED AND SPECTRALLY SIMULATED BREAKING WAVES

2017 ◽  
pp. 12
Author(s):  
Mustafa Kemal Ozalp ◽  
Serdar Beji
Keyword(s):  
Time Domain ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Dissipative Effects ◽  
Spectral Components ◽  
Breaking Mechanism ◽  
Acceptable Agreement

For realistic wave simulations in the nearshore zone besides nonlinear interactions, the dissipative effects of wave breaking must also be taken into account. This paper presents the applications of a spectral nonlinear wave model with a dissipative breaking mechanism introduced by Beji and Nadaoka (1997). Results obtained for spectral components are converted to the time series and compared with Beji and Battjes' (1993) laboratory measurements and the field measurements of Nakamura and Katoh (1992) in the surf zone. While the model predicts the spilling-type breaking of irregular waves in acceptable agreement with the measurements in time domain, the agreement is unsatisfactory for plunging-type breakers.

scholarly journals A GROSS LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE FORMULA

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 47 ◽  
Author(s):  
Cyril J. Galvin
Keyword(s):  
Current Velocity ◽  
Empirical Relation ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Physical Explanation ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Term Field

Gross longshore transport rates for 11 long-term field measurements are predicted reasonably well by the empirical relation, Q=2H2, where Q is longshore transport rate in 100,000 yd3/yr, and H is a mean breaker height in feet. A physical explanation of this empirical relation assumes: (1) most littoral drift is transported in suspension; (2) longshore current velocity is predicted by V-gmTsin28j,; (3) the empirical relation is an equation for conservation of suspended sediment in the longshore current.

scholarly journals COMPUTATION OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 40 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ivar G. Jonsson ◽  
Ove Skovgaard ◽  
Torben S. Jacobsen
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Numerical Algorithms ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Bottom Friction ◽  
Rip Currents ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Lateral Mixing ◽  
Set Up ◽  
The Given

The steady state profile of the longshore current induced by regular, obliquely incident, breaking waves, over a bottom with arbitrary parallel bottom contours, is predicted. A momentum approach is adopted. The wave parameters must be given at a depth outside the surf zone, where the current velocity is very small. The variation of the bottom roughness along the given bottom profile must be prescribed in advance. Depth refraction is included also in the calculation of wave set-down and set-up. Current refraction and rip-currents are excluded. The model includes two new expressions, one for the calculation of the turbulent lateral mixing, and one for the turbulent bottom friction. The term for the bottom friction is non-linear. Rapid convergent numerical algorithms are described for the solution of the governing equations. The predicted current profiles are compared with laboratory experiments and field measurements. For a plane sloping bottom, the influence of different eddy viscosities and constant values of bottom roughness is examined.

scholarly journals NEARSHORE SUSPENDED SEDIMENT LOAD DURING STORM AND POSXTSTORM CONDITIONS

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 70
Author(s):  
Timothy W. Kana ◽  
Larry G. Ward
Keyword(s):  
Suspended Sediment ◽  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Research ◽  
Bulk Water ◽  
Total Load ◽  
Zone Width ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

As part of the DUCK-X experiment at the CERC field research facility at Duck, North Carolina in September, 1978, suspended sediment measurements were made along the CERC pier. In situ bulk water samples were collected during a moderate northeast storm and two days later during post-storm wave conditions. Concentrations varied from approximately 0.01 g/1 to over 10.0 g/1. Vertical arrays of suspended sediment samples indicated that concentration decreases rapidly up to two meters above the bed, then remains relatively constant, reflecting the nature of the suspension; intermittent suspension of sand near the bed, and continuous washload higher in the water column. Concentrations were at a maximum during storm conditions when measured values were 3 to 5 times higher than during non-storm conditions. The total load of sediment in a pier cross section during sampling periods in storm and post^storm conditions was calculated from arrays of 49 samples each. With H1/3 exceeding 2.3 HI and the surf zone width over 300 m during the storm, the total load of sediment in suspension was approximately 10 times higher than during poststorm conditions (Hi 73 - 1.2 m and surf zone width approximately 100 m) . Estimates of the longshore flux of suspended sediment indicate that as much as 60 times more sediment was transported during storm than during post-storm conditions. Longshore transport of sediment measured from 5 cm above the bed to the surface reached the equivalent of 22,330 m^/day. This value corresponds very closely to longshore transport predicted from wave energy flux. During post-storm conditions, on the other hand, transport of suspended sediment accounts for less than one-third of the transport predicted from wave energy flux.

scholarly journals FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF SAND MOTION IN THE SURF ZONE

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 73 ◽  
Author(s):  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
James A. Zampol ◽  
Thomas E. White ◽  
Daniel M. Hanes ◽  
B. Walton Waldorf ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Layer Thickness ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Suspended Load ◽  
Bed Load ◽  
Simultaneous Measurements ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Measured Load ◽  
Rigorous Method

Forcing functions and sediment response were measured during two comprehensive surf zone experiments. The experiments included simultaneous measurements of waves and currents, and the movement of sediment as bed and suspended load. The longshore transport of suspended load was found to be about 10 to 20% of the tracer-measured load. Results from tracer measurements of the longshore transport of bed load indicate that previous measurements may have misestimated the effective "tracer layer thickness," and a more rigorous method is proposed.

scholarly journals FIELD INVESTIGATIONS OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 120 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.W. Sternberg ◽  
N.C. Shi ◽  
John P. Downing
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Suspended Sediment ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Sediment Concentration ◽  
Daily Basis ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Suspended Sediment Transport ◽  
Sediment Distribution ◽  
Longshore Transport

The suspended sediment distribution and longshore sediment transport characteristics at Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California were investigated using a series of miniature optical backseatter sensors which can measure particle concentrations as high as 180 gm/£ and have 10 Hz frequency response. Vertical arrays of sensors were maintained at up to four positions across the surf zone during 7-25 February 1980 and were operated concurrently with pressure sensors and current meters. Data were collected on a daily basis over 2-4 hour periods. The data were analyzed to reveal concentration profiles of suspended sediment, the average suspended sediment loads, and the longshore particle flux in relation to varying wave conditions. Results show that sediment transport occurs as individual suspension events related to incident wave motions and infragravity motion oscillations within the surf zone; suspended sediment concentration decreases approximately logarithimically away from the seabed; the maximum values of longshore transport rates occur in the mid-surf zone; and the measured suspended sediment longshore transport rate is equal to the total longshore transport rate as predicted by existing transport equations.

scholarly journals FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF IMPACT PRESSURES IN SURF

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 103
Author(s):  
R.L. Miller ◽  
S. Leverette ◽  
J. O'Sullivan ◽  
J. Tochko ◽  
K. Theriault
Keyword(s):  
Vertical Distribution ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Vertical Array ◽  
Qualitative Explanation ◽  
The Vertical Distribution ◽  
Plunging Breaker ◽  
Spilling Breaker

Field measurements were made of the vertical distribution of impact pressures exerted by breaking waves. Four distinct types are recognized and compared. These are near-breaking wave, plunging breaker, spilling breaker and post-breaking bore. The measurements were obtained by placing a 6 foot aluminum flat plate, backed by a cylinder in the surf zone, so that the fiat faced the approaching breakers. Five sensors were placed at one foot intervals on the flat. The sensors consisted of strain gage mounted aluminum diaphragms. Results indicated that impact pressure is significantly influenced by breaker type. The bore generated the largest impact pressures, followed in decreasing order by plunging breaker, spilling breaker and near breaking wave. In the vertical array, the largest impact pressures were recorded at or near the top, except for the bore where the reverse occurred. A qualitative explanation is given of various phenomena associated with impact pressures, by considering breaker mechanics.

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