scholarly journals ABOUT THE ENERGY DISSIPATION OVER BARRED BEACH

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 20
Author(s):  
Johannes Oelerich ◽  
Hans-Henning Dette
Keyword(s):  
Stochastic Process ◽  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
The West ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Moderate Energy ◽  
Empirical Approaches ◽  
Spilling Breaker

Since wave energy dissipation in the surf zone is a stochastic process closed mathematical formulations cannot be expected. The dissipation was computed using several analytical and/or empirical approaches and compared with prototype measurements in the Big Wave Flume (GWK) in Hannover as well as with field measurements from the west coast, of the Island of Sylt/North Sea. Generally good agreements were found for moderate energy dissipation conditions (spilling-breaker), whereas in the case of plunging breakers, however, the fitting is not solved satisfactory.

scholarly journals MODEL TESTS ON LITTORAL SAND TRANSPORT RATE

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 80
Author(s):  
J.W. Kamphuis ◽  
O.F.S.J. Sayao
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Dissipation Rate ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Energy Dissipation Rate ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Mobile Bed

This paper is an analysis of two sets of experimental results on littoral sand transport. A littoral sand transport expression is proposed, relating littoral transport rate to surf similarity parameter and hence to wave energy dissipation rate. The expression indicates that the "constant' in the CERC formula is dependent on the mobile bed beach slope and on the breaker index. The expression is also compared with some of the few published field measurements.

Estimating wave energy dissipation in the surf zone using thermal infrared imagery

2015 ◽  
Vol 120 (6) ◽  
pp. 3937-3957 ◽  
Author(s):  
Roxanne J. Carini ◽  
C. Chris Chickadel ◽  
Andrew T. Jessup ◽  
Jim Thomson
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Thermal Infrared ◽  
Infrared Imagery ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Thermal Infrared Imagery

scholarly journals LATERAL MIXING AND WAVE DIRECTION IN THE WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION REGICN

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 29
Author(s):  
Kyoung Ho Kim ◽  
Sawaragi Toru ◽  
Deguchi Ichiro
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Electromagnetic Current ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Mixing Coefficient ◽  
Lateral Mixing ◽  
Current Interaction ◽  
Wave Angle

The lateral mixing coefficient, in which the wave energy dissipation by wave breaking is taken account and the assumption of Richardson's 4/3 power law is involved, is derived for the surf zone and the diffusion of tracers injected in the wave-current interaction region is discussed experimentally to investigate the proposed lateral mixing coefficient. Furthermore measurements of velocity field on the three dimensional sloping beach of plane wave flume have been made by a bidirectional electromagnetic current meter. The results were used to investigate the characteristics of the structure of on-offshore and alongshore mean currents arid the techniques for the determination of wave angle in the surf zone.

scholarly journals MACRO-TURBULENCE FROM WIND WAVES

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 14 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chin-Yuan Lee ◽  
Frank D. Masch
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Wind Speeds ◽  
Macro Scale ◽  
Scale Turbulence ◽  
Almost All ◽  
Hot Film

Laboratory studies m a wind wave flume were carried out to investigate the macro-scale turbulence associated with wind waves and white cap conditions Velocity fluctuations m water were measured with a hot film anemometer and parametric correlations between wind waves and turbulence characteristics were established Measured data were recorded m analog form, digitized and stored on magnetic tape Auto - covanance functions and power spectral density functions were then obtained for all sample records Results showed that the depth of the penetration of the macro-scale turbulence increased rapidly with wind speed but the rate of penetration diminished at the higher wind speeds This rate of macro-turbulence penetration was found to vary inversely with wave height and wave steepness Most turbulent fluctuations having frequencies equal to or higher than the frequency of the ambient surface waves were confined to the zone of macro-turbulence penetration although some disturbances such as vortex rings and other turbulence associated with white cap wave conditions occasionally penetrated to greater depths It was found that the energy dissipation increased with wave height and that almost all wave energy dissipation was concentrated near the water surface.

Wave Height Variation Across Surf Zone of Bar Type Profile

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Kun-Sian Lai
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Analytical Solutions ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Hydraulic Jump ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Height Variation ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Theoretical Results

Analytical solutions for wave height decay due to shoaling and breaking on a bar type profile are presented. A macroscopic analogy between an idealized surf zone and a hydraulic jump are incorporated in the theory to account for wave transformation and energy dissipation in the surf zone. The theoretical results are fairly compared with laboratory observations. Key parameters that influence wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are investigated.

scholarly journals Surf and Swash Dynamics on Low Tide Terrace Beaches

Coasts ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 73-89
Author(s):  
Ivana M. Mingo ◽  
Rafael Almar ◽  
Laurent Lacaze
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Dean Number ◽  
Incoming Wave ◽  
Common View ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Equilibrium Beach Profile ◽  
High Dynamics

Low tide terrace (LLT) beaches are characterised by a moderately steep beach face and a flat shallow terrace influencing the local hydro-morphodynamics during low tide. The upper beachface slope (β) and the terrace width (Lt) are the main morphological parameters that define the shape of LTT cross-shore beach profiles. This work aims at better understanding the behaviour of β and Lt and their link with the incoming wave forcing. For this purpose, our results are based on 3.5 years times series of daily beach profiles and wave conditions surveys at two different microtidal LTT beaches with similar sediments size but different wave climate, one at Nha Trang (Vietnam) and the other one at Grand Popo (Benin). While they look similar, two contrasting behaviour were linked to two sub-types of LTT regimes: the first one is surf regulated beaches (SRB) where the swash zone is highly regulated by the surf zone wave energy dissipation on the terrace, and the second is swash regulated beaches (SwRB) acting in more reflective regime where the terrace is not active and the energy dissipation is mainly produced in the swash zone, the terrace becomes a consequences of the high dynamics in the swash zone. Finally, extending the common view of an equilibrium beach profile as a power law of the cross-shore distance, the ability of a simple parametrized cubic function model with the Dean number as unique control parameters is proposed and discussed. This simple model can be used for the understanding of LLT environments but it can not be extended to the whole beach spectrum.

scholarly journals Sea spray aerosol and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. J. Francius ◽  
J. Piazolla ◽  
P. Forget ◽  
O. Le Calve ◽  
J. Kusmierczyk-Michulec
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Sea Spray ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Sea Spray Aerosol

scholarly journals FIELD CALCULATIONS OF WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION AND RELATED BEACH PROFILE

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 135
Author(s):  
James R. Tallent ◽  
Takao Yamashita ◽  
Yoshito Tsuchiya
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Nonlinearity Parameter ◽  
Engineering Project ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Dissipation Model ◽  
Zone Field

The process by which wave energy dissipates across the surf zone and its affect on the bed profile is, of course, a topic of immediate concern and debate. Various concepts of the wave energy dissipation process have been modeled, however, additional research is needed before confidence can be placed in a particular calculation scheme. In addition to the problems associated with proper model derivation a method of application and result interpretation of actual surf zone field data must be devised and understood. This is, of course, prerequisite to any realistic use of a wave energy dissipation model in an engineering project. The following study was therefore conducted in order to examine the applicability of surf zone field data to wave energy dissipation models and to investigate the bed profile relationship. Two wave energy dissipation models were selected for comparison in this study, the 'Undertow Model'(UM) which is based on the conservation of wave energy flux across the surf zone (3), and the 'Turbulent Bore Model'(TBM) which is based on hydraulic jump theory (2). Individual waves were identified in the wave record by employing the zero up-crossing method, and wave energy calculations were based on small amplitude wave theory, Svendsen's nonlinearity parameter Bo (4), and the 1/3 Significant Wave classification.

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