scholarly journals ARBITRARY GENERATION OF VERY LONG, AND TSUNAMI-LIKE WAVES USING AN OPTIMZED PUMP-DRIVEN METHOD

Author(s):  
Nils Goseberg ◽  
Hajo von Hafen ◽  
Pablo Ballesteros ◽  
Nils B. Kerpen ◽  
Torsten Schlurmann

Tsunami remain a focal point of coastal engineering research, particularly when interacting with near-shore bathymetry and coastal developments. A recent push in experimentation involving long waves has led to novel methods, to generate and accurately control long waves in laboratories. This work showcases a recent implementation of a pump-driven long wave generation, with novel control strategies, an optimized inlet geometry, and an extra-wide and uniquely long propagation flume with the overall aim to provide the latest insight into experimental long wave generation.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/ZR0r88i2ev0

1972 ◽  
Vol 51 (3) ◽  
pp. 449-461 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. O. Tuck And ◽  
Li-San Hwang

A general solution of the linear long-wave equation is obtained for arbitrary ground motion on a uniformly sloping beach. Numerical results are presented for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion. Near-shore large amplitude waves are also investigated using non-linear theory.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 64
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma

A new method for separating low-frequency waves in time domain is proposed by constructing the analytical signals of the measured waves. Using three simultaneous wave records, the time series of incident bound, free and reflected low-frequency waves can be obtained by the present method. This method is only suitable for separating monochromatic low-frequency waves. The applicability of the method is examined by numerical tests. The results show that the present method can give accurate results over sloping beaches when water depth (kh) is larger than 0.2. Then, the present method is used to study an experiment of low-frequency waves over a mild slope beach. References Bakkenes, H.J. 2002. Observation and separation of bound and free low-frequency waves in the nearshore zone, in Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences. Delft University of Technology: Delft. Baldock, T.E., D.A., Huntley, P.A.D., Bird, T.O., Hare, and G.N., Bullock. 2000. Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups. Coastal Engineering. 30 (2-4): 213-242. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7 Battjes, J.A., Bakkenes, H.J., Janssen, T.T., van Dongeren, A.R. 2004. Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res., 109(C2): C02009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC001863 Bowers, E.C. 1977. Harbour resonance due to set-down beneath wave groups. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 79: 71-92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112077000044 Cohen, L. 1995. Time Frequency Analysis: Theory and Applications. Prentice Hall Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey. Dong, G.H., X.Z., Ma, M., Perlin, Y.X., Ma, B., Yu, and G., Wang. 2009. Experimental Study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms. Coastal Engineering, 56(1), 82-89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.002 Kamphuis, J.W. 2000. Designing for low frequency waves. Proceedings of 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Sydney, Australian. 1434-1447. Kostense, J.K. 1984. Measurements of surf beat and set-down beneath wave groups. Proceedings of 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Houston, USA. 724-740. Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and R.W., Stewart. 1962. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves with application to 'surfbeat'. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 13: 481-504 http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877 Mallat, S. 1999. A Wavelet Tour of Signal Processing. Academic Press. PMCid:407895 Nagai, T., N., Hashimoto, T., Asai, et al. 1994. Relationship of a moored vessel in a harbor and a long wave caused by wave groups. Proceedings of 17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Kobe, Japan. 847-861. Schäffer, H.A. 1993. Second-orderwavemaker theory for irregularwaves.Ocean Engineering. 23 (1), 47–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(95)00013-B Symonds, G.D.A., D.A., Huntley, and A.J., Bowen. 1982. Two-dimensional surf beat-long-wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. Journal of Geophysical Research. 87(C1): 492-498. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492 Yu, J. and C.C., Mei. 2000. Formation of sand bars under surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 416: 315-348. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112000001063


Author(s):  
Khairana Ayu Shabrina ◽  
Rudi Siap Bintoro ◽  
Giman Giman

<p>Teluk Prigi merupakan perairan di pesisir Samudera Hindia yang dikelilingi oleh bentang alam tebing yang tinggi sehingga wilayah pesisir yang memiliki kondisi dinamis dapat mengakibatkan terjadinya perubahan garis pantai apabila tidak dikelola dengan baik. Maka dari itu pada penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui faktor oseanografi yang menyebabkan terjadinya perubahan garis pantai. Metode yang digunakan terdiri dari pemisahan arus, peramalan gelombang, gelombang pecah, energi gelombang dan refraksi gelombang dengan menggunakan metode menurut <em>Coastal Engineering Research Center </em>(CERC). Selain itu ekstraksi garis pantai dengan metode <em>NDWI (Normal Differential Water Index)</em>, dan analisis jenis sedimen menggunakan modul yang dikeluarkan oleh Pusjatan Balitbang PU. Faktor oseanografi yang dominan menjadi penyebab perubahan garis pantai adalah gelombang bangkitan angin yang pola gelombangnya mengalami perubahan arah yang cenderung tegak lurus pantai, selain itu arus pasang surut menjadi faktor pendukung dengan kecepatan 0,0037 m/s bergerak menuju Utara. Sehingga, kondisi garis pantai pada tahun 2003 dan 2014, 2014 dan 2018 luasan sedimentasi terbesar mencapai 28.949 m<sup>2</sup> dan 52.020 m<sup>2</sup> yang berada di Desa Prigi. Sedangkan Sedangkan lokasi abrasi pada tahun 2003 dan 2014, 2014 dan 2018 luasnya mencapai 4.204 m<sup>2</sup> dan 3.326 m<sup>2</sup>.</p>


1984 ◽  
Vol 16 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 525-532
Author(s):  
E J Pullen ◽  
P L Knutson ◽  
A K Hurme

The Coastal Engineering Research Center at Fort Belvoir, Virginia, is responsible for research that supports the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Civil Works program. This research involves coastal navigation, channel design and maintenance, storm flooding, shore erosion control, and coastal ecology. The ecology research is focused on two major areas: (1) use of coastal vegetation for engineering purposes and (2) effects of coastal engineering activities on the biological environment. The objectives and accomplishments of the ecology research are discussed and specific examples of field guidance are presented.


Microbiology ◽  
2014 ◽  
Vol 160 (9) ◽  
pp. 1821-1831 ◽  
Author(s):  
Viveshree S. Govender ◽  
Saiyur Ramsugit ◽  
Manormoney Pillay

Adhesion to host cells is a precursor to host colonization and evasion of the host immune response. Conversely, it triggers the induction of the immune response, a process vital to the host’s defence against infection. Adhesins are microbial cell surface molecules or structures that mediate the attachment of the microbe to host cells and thus the host–pathogen interaction. They also play a crucial role in bacterial aggregation and biofilm formation. In this review, we discuss the role of adhesins in the pathogenesis of the aetiological agent of tuberculosis, Mycobacterium tuberculosis. We also provide insight into the structure and characteristics of some of the characterized and putative M. tuberculosis adhesins. Finally, we examine the potential of adhesins as targets for the development of tuberculosis control strategies.


1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 70 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard O. Bruno ◽  
Christopher G. Gable

Analysis of longshore transport at a littoral barrier is presented. Channel Islands Harbor, California was selected as the study site because its offshore breakwater and jetties form a unique complete littoral barrier. Through repetitive surveys an accurate determination of longshore material transport in one direction was made. Measured transport rates ranged from 160,000 to 1,284,000 cubic meters per year. Utilizing visual observations of surf parameters, estimates of longshore wave thrust were computed. The range of wave thrust was 145 to 1,988 Newtons per meter. Comparison of the relation of wave thrust and longshore sediment transport is made. This study indicates that in an environment of high transport, nearly twice as much transport is predicted tinder corresponding wave thrust as that of the data summarized in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Shore Protection Manual.


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