Isopropyl Ricinoleate, A Potential Alternative to Isopropyl Myristate: Experimental and Computational evaluation

Background: Due to growing environmental concerns, eco-friendly and sustainable materials have become one of the key interests of cosmetics research. Isopropyl myristate is being used as a major cosmetic ingredient, like in many other cosmetic items, as an emollient for a long time. Methods: An emollient ester, isopropyl ricinoleate, is derived from non-edible oil, castor oil. The synthesized isopropyl ricinoleate using greener enzyme catalysed methodology was further tested for sensory evaluation and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) studies. Results: An ester, isopropyl ricinoleate, imparted better gloss and shine to the skin as compared to isopropyl myristate due to its higher refractive index. Both esters, isopropyl ricinoleate and isopropyl myristate, showed minimum tackiness and residue after spreading. Moreover, in-silico toxicity analysis of ester, isopropyl ricinoleate, supported previously reported in-vitro toxicity data. Conclusion: Thus, the current study provides better insights on the replacement of emollient ester isopropyl myristate by isopropyl ricinoleate.

Electrochemotherapy In The Treatment of Kaposi’s Sarcoma: A Single Centre Cohort Study And A Comparison With Literature Data

: Kaposi's sarcoma (KS) is a tumor of endothelial derivation, which primarily affects the skin and is mainly related to the type 8 human herpesvirus (HHV8). Its onset is favored by immunosuppression, although the most common form is the classic or sporadic KS mainly developing in elderly men of Mediterranean and Eastern European origin. Different therapeutic options are available, depending on the clinical variant, progression pattern, and comorbidities. The treatment of localized forms includes surgical excision, laser treatment, cryosurgery, radiotherapy, imiquimod 5%, and intra-lesion injection of cytotoxic drugs; on the other hand, the treatment of widespread disease encompasses radiotherapy and chemotherapy. In this scenario, electrochemotherapy (ECT), has shown to be an effective alternative to traditional treatment for disseminated KS skin lesions. The rationale of ECT relies on the local application of short, high-voltage electric pulses, able to open transient pores in the cell membrane (reversible electroporation, that increases the delivery of some poorly permeant cytotoxic agents into the cytosol. Herein we performed a retrospective analysis on 9 KS patients treated with ECT at our center between June 2016 and January 2020. The rate of Complete Response (CR) was 77.8% after the first cycle of treatment and 88.9% after the second course, with an overall response (OR) of 100%. Sustained local control of treated lesions was present in 77.8% of patients 6 months after the treatment and all of them reported only mild local toxicity, together with an excellent functional and cosmetic outcome, in agreement with data obtained from the comparison with the recent literature.

Aqueous-Based Nanoemulsion Containing (-)-α-Bisabolol for Topical Treatment of Skin burns

Background: α-Bisabolol (BIS) is a sesquiterpene extracted from chamomile flowers, which has been used to topically treat burnt skin has been reported. High lipophilicity of BIS, however, is a problem for both skin application and washing. Objective: The present study aimed to prepare and characterize a stable and safe aqueous-based nanoemulsion to incorporate BIS and favor skin penetration focusing on skin burns' topical treatment. Method: Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were obtained from a pseudo-ternary phase diagram. The selected nanoemulsion was characterized (droplet size, PDI, and zeta potential), and the stability was assessed for 60 days at 6ºC and room temperature. The irritability of the formulation was determined by HET-CAM. Skin permeation studies were carried out in vitro intact skin, hot water burn skin, and hot plate burn skin. Results: The nanoemulsion incorporated 1% (w/w) BIS, presented droplets' size of 14.0±0.8 nm (PDI= 0.13±0.02), the zeta potential of +7.5±1.9 mV, and was physically stable over 60 days. The HET-CAM did not show any irritability process provided by the nanoformulation. In the skin permeation experiments, when compared to an oily control solution of BIS, nanoemulsion increased 3.7-fold penetration of the drug in intact skin, likely because the nanoformulation acted as an absorption drug enhancer. On a hot water burn skin model, the increase in drug penetration was 1.7-fold, and in the hot plate burn skin, it was 2.3-fold. Conclusion: The nanoemulsion seems to be a promising alternative for skin burns' topical treatment using this natural active substance.

Beauty and wellness turn towards a green economy

: Beauty and wellness remain for both women and men an important target also because global attractiveness is considered a cue indicating the ability to maintain beauty and wellness. Consequently neuromarketing has occurred as an innovative mean to interact with consumer's trend, actually looking for high-quality and natural cosmetics and food. By the biometric studies, in fact, it seems possible to verify the consumers’ willingness to buy the right products they are looking for. On the other hand, customers are requesting cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals acting positively on the superficial appearance of face and body, seem to be able to boost the immune system also, limiting the stress conditions. This general disease is induced by the actual way of living on a planet invaded by a great quantity of waste released from human’s activities. The consequent pollution alters the ecological balance of the body, influencing negatively the life of animals and plants also. Thus, the induced stress, further increased by the COVID-19 spread, could change the human brain' neural conditions. Consequently, in humans the production of both neurons' stem cells and cortisol could decrease, while in plants, the patterns of growth could affect the leaf cuticle and stomatal conductance. Thus brain, under psychosocial stress, actively demands energy from the body, eliciting a marked increase in eating by a major carbohydrate intake which sacrifices the requirements of other organs. In any way, pollution has wide-ranging adverse health and social effects, further worsened by an increased worldwide aged population who, requiring more food and goods, increases the waste production. What the proposed solution? To change the way of consuming and producing, it is necessary to optimize the material resource, minimizing waste that should be recycled and reused by a green economy approach. So doing, it could be possible to realize a new industrial Renaissance reducing consumption of water, energy and natural raw materials. Thus the necessity to use sustainable technologies and materials for maintaining human wellbeing in an environment in which the species' biodiversity could be assured. At this purpose, chitin nanofibrils(CN), nano-lignin (NL) and their derived compounds have been proposed to make nanoparticles (NPs) by the use of water as solvent. These NPs, loaded with different active ingredients, may be embedded into innovative natural or man-made polymers and used to make biodegradable carriers in the form of non-woven tissues and films. Depending on the polymers and on the actives loaded into the fibers, these new vehicles may be used to produce smart cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals or advanced medications. It is interesting to underline that all these innovative NPs and tissue/films can be produced by natural polymers and ingredients, obtained from waste materials and produced by sustainable technologies at low consumption of water and energy, according to the new green economy.

Formulation and in vitro characterization of tea tree oil anti-dandruff shampoo

Background: Dandruff is the common scalp condition affecting half of the population of the world. Objective: The current study was aimed at developing anti-dandruff shampoos containing tea tree oil, which is believed to have effects against Malassezia furfur, a fungus involved in dandruff production. Methodology: Various shampoos containing tea tree oil in 0.5 to 3% concentration were prepared after careful selection of various shampoo ingredients. The formulated shampoos were subjected to various quality tests such as pH, viscosity, foam production, dirt dispersion, wetting time, surface tension, solid contents and antimicrobial activity against a model fungal strain, namely Candida albicans. The formulated shampoos were also compared with the marketed shampoos for quality attributes. Results: The results revealed that tea tree oil shampoos had pH values in the range of 5 – 6, which is close to the slightly acidic skin’s pH and considered as good for hair. All other quality attributes were comparable to the marketed products. The marketed shampoos had superior antifungal activity due to presence of zinc pyrithione or higher concentration of salicylic acid or selenium sulfide. Notwithstanding, the tea tree oil shampoos demonstrated an appreciable antifungal activity due to synergistic effects of tea tree oil, sodium lauryl sulphate and salicylic acid. Furthermore, the tea tree oil shampoos were stable during two months long stability testing. Conclusion: Thus, tea tree oil anti-dandruff shampoos have the potential to address the dandruff problem.

The beneficial effect of Cannabis Sativa seed oil on the epidermis

Background: Cannabis Sativa seed oil has become more and more popular in cosmetic industry mainly due to the high content of antioxidants and unsaturated fatty acids that are desirable in formulations because they prevent moisture loss and reduce the occurrence of dry skin. Objective: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of Cannabis Sativa seed oil on skin parameters such as hydration and transepidermal water loss. Methods: The in vivo tests on volunteers with combination skin were performed by using non-invasive methods by using corneometer and tewameter. Results: The obtained results proved that Cannabis Sativa seed oil improved skin condition. The transepidermal water loss decreased because the lipophilic components of the oil formulation tend to form an occlusive layer on the epidermis surface. The highest increase in skin hydration was observed after one week of treatment. Conclusion: These results confirmed that Cannabis Sativa seed oil has strong moisturizing properties and can be recommended as a natural based skin conditioning agent.