scholarly journals On the Alber equation for shoaling water waves

2021 ◽  
Vol 927 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mateusz Kluczek ◽  
David Andrade ◽  
Michael Stiassnie

The problem of unidirectional shoaling of a water-wave field with a narrow energy spectrum is treated by using a new Alber equation. The stability of the linear stationary solution to small non-stationary disturbances is analysed; and numerical solutions for its subsequent long-distance evolution are presented. The results quantify the physics which causes the gradual decay in the probability of freak-wave occurrence, when moving from deep to shallow coastal waters.

Author(s):  
R. Stuhlmeier ◽  
M. Stiassnie

A discretized equation for the evolution of random surface wave fields on deep water is derived from Zakharov's equation, allowing for a general treatment of the stability and long-time behaviour of broad-banded sea states. It is investigated for the simple case of degenerate four-wave interaction, and the instability of statistically homogeneous states to small inhomogeneous disturbances is demonstrated. Furthermore, the long-time evolution is studied for several cases and shown to lead to a complex spatio-temporal energy distribution. The possible impact of this evolution on the statistics of freak wave occurrence is explored. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


2014 ◽  
Vol 2014 ◽  
pp. 1-7 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. R. Seadawy ◽  
A. Sayed

The modeling of unidirectional propagation of long water waves in dispersive media is presented. The Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) and Benjamin-Bona-Mahony (BBM) equations are derived from water waves models. New traveling solutions of the KdV and BBM equations are obtained by implementing the extended direct algebraic and extended sech-tanh methods. The stability of the obtained traveling solutions is analyzed and discussed.


1970 ◽  
Vol 42 (4) ◽  
pp. 845-859 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jerome H. Milgram

The problem considered is that of absorbing two-dimensional water waves in a channel by means of a moving termination at the end of the channel. The problem is formulated for a semi-infinite channel and solutions are determined according to a linearized theory. The motion of the termination that is needed for absorption is determined in the form of a linear operation on the measured surface elevation at a fixed point in the channel so a self-actuating wave-absorbing system can be devised. A theoretical method of studying the stability of such a system is presented. A system of this type was built and experiments with it are described. Wave absorption is demonstrated both for monochromatic waves and for wave pulses. The absorption of a wave pulse is compared with the absorption of the same pulse by a fixed beach making a ten degree angle with the horizontal direction.


Author(s):  
Edward Vladimirovich Nikitin

Shallow coastal waters of the Volga river is a flooded feeding area for fish juveniles of nonmigratory fish species. There takes place annual downstream migration of fluvial anadromous fish species from spawning grounds of the Volga river to the Northern Caspian Sea. The most important factors determining the number and qualitative characteristics of fry fishes are the level of the Caspian Sea (currently having a tendency to the lowering), hydrological and thermal regimes of the Volga river. Researches were carried out in definite periods of time. In the summer-autumn period of 2012 fry fishes were presented by 19 species (13 of them were commercial species), which belonged to 9 families. The article gives data on all the commercial fish species. In the first decade of July the maximum number of fry fish was registered in the western part of the Volga outfall offshore - in box 247 (19.86 mln specimens/km2), in the eastern part - in box 142 (20.4 mln specimens/km2). The most populous were roach, red-eye, silver bream and bream; size-weight characteristics were better in the areas remoted from the Volga delta. In the third decade of July the quantitative indicators of fry fish on these areas decreased, size-weight characteristics greatly increased. In the second decade of October in the western part of the seaside there were registered increased pre-wintering concentrations of fish juveniles, their qualitative indicators increased, which is evidence to favorable feeding conditions in 2012.


Author(s):  
Maxim Kosyan ◽  
Maxim Kosyan

The goal of the accomplished work was provision of information to the project, targeted at study of forming and evolution processes of accumulative shore forms of tideless seas of Russia under the effect of hydro-, litho- and morphodynamic factors. Project is accomplished by a team of specialists from leading Russian research institutions from year 2014 onwards. Main element of saving research results is information-analytical complex, which is found on the Internet at http://cofore.coastdyn.ru/index_eng.html, consists of static and dynamic modules, system of statistical analysis and management and protection of created resources. Information sources for information-analytical complex consists of: existing databases of reference data from Institute of Oceanology, material gathered from long distance and on-site observations over dynamic of coastal waters and sedimentary transportation; material from conferences and open publications. As project develops it is planned to keep developing complex with new research data and relevant publications.


Author(s):  
Biswajit Basu ◽  
Calin I. Martin

AbstractWe are concerned here with an analysis of the nonlinear irrotational gravity water wave problem with a free surface over a water flow bounded below by a flat bed. We employ a new formulation involving an expression (called flow force) which contains pressure terms, thus having the potential to handle intricate surface dynamic boundary conditions. The proposed formulation neither requires the graph assumption of the free surface nor does require the absence of stagnation points. By way of this alternative approach we prove the existence of a local curve of solutions to the water wave problem with fixed flow force and more relaxed assumptions.


Author(s):  
P. G. Drazin

ABSTRACTSome aspects of generation of water waves by wind and of turbulence in a heterogeneous fluid may be described by the theory of hydrodynamic stability. The technical difficulties of these problems of instability have led to obscurities in the literature, some of which are elucidated in this paper. The stability equation for a basic steady parallel horizontal flow under the influence of gravity is derived carefully, the undisturbed fluid having vertical variations of density and viscosity. Methods of solution of the equation for large Reynolds numbers and for long-wave disturbances are described. These methods are applied to simple models of wind blowing over water and of fresh water flowing over salt water.


2002 ◽  
Vol 452 ◽  
pp. 163-187 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. L. BURCHAM ◽  
D. A. SAVILLE

A liquid bridge is a column of liquid, pinned at each end. Here we analyse the stability of a bridge pinned between planar electrodes held at different potentials and surrounded by a non-conducting, dielectric gas. In the absence of electric fields, surface tension destabilizes bridges with aspect ratios (length/diameter) greater than π. Here we describe how electrical forces counteract surface tension, using a linearized model. When the liquid is treated as an Ohmic conductor, the specific conductivity level is irrelevant and only the dielectric properties of the bridge and the surrounding gas are involved. Fourier series and a biharmonic, biorthogonal set of Papkovich–Fadle functions are used to formulate an eigenvalue problem. Numerical solutions disclose that the most unstable axisymmetric deformation is antisymmetric with respect to the bridge’s midplane. It is shown that whilst a bridge whose length exceeds its circumference may be unstable, a sufficiently strong axial field provides stability if the dielectric constant of the bridge exceeds that of the surrounding fluid. Conversely, a field destabilizes a bridge whose dielectric constant is lower than that of its surroundings, even when its aspect ratio is less than π. Bridge behaviour is sensitive to the presence of conduction along the surface and much higher fields are required for stability when surface transport is present. The theoretical results are compared with experimental work (Burcham & Saville 2000) that demonstrated how a field stabilizes an otherwise unstable configuration. According to the experiments, the bridge undergoes two asymmetric transitions (cylinder-to-amphora and pinch-off) as the field is reduced. Agreement between theory and experiment for the field strength at the pinch-off transition is excellent, but less so for the change from cylinder to amphora. Using surface conductivity as an adjustable parameter brings theory and experiment into agreement.


1968 ◽  
Vol 31 (4) ◽  
pp. 779-788 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. E. Ffowcs Williams ◽  
D. L. Hawkings

Small amplitude waves on a shallow layer of water are studied from the point of view used in aerodynamic sound theory. It is shown that many aspects of the generation and propagation of water waves are similar to those of sound waves in air. Certain differences are also discussed. It is concluded that shallow water simulation can be employed in the study of some aspects of aerodynamically generated sound.


Author(s):  
Robert L. McMasters ◽  
Filippo de Monte ◽  
James V. Beck ◽  
Donald E. Amos

This paper provides a solution for two-dimensional heating over a rectangular region on a homogeneous plate. It has application to verification of numerical conduction codes as well as direct application for heating and cooling of electronic equipment. Additionally, it can be applied as a direct solution for the inverse heat conduction problem, most notably used in thermal protection systems for re-entry vehicles. The solutions used in this work are generated using Green’s functions. Two approaches are used which provide solutions for either semi-infinite plates or finite plates with isothermal conditions which are located a long distance from the heating. The methods are both efficient numerically and have extreme accuracy, which can be used to provide additional solution verification. The solutions have components that are shown to have physical significance. The extremely precise nature of analytical solutions allows them to be used as prime standards for their respective transient conduction cases. This extreme precision also allows an accurate calculation of heat flux by finite differences between two points of very close proximity which would not be possible with numerical solutions. This is particularly useful near heated surfaces and near corners. Similarly, sensitivity coefficients for parameter estimation problems can be calculated with extreme precision using this same technique. Another contribution of these solutions is the insight that they can bring. Important dimensionless groups are identified and their influence can be more readily seen than with numerical results. For linear problems, basic heating elements on plates, for example, can be solved to aid in understanding more complex cases. Furthermore these basic solutions can be superimposed both in time and space to obtain solutions for numerous other problems. This paper provides an analytical two-dimensional, transient solution for heating over a rectangular region on a homogeneous square plate. Several methods are available for the solution of such problems. One of the most common is the separation of variables (SOV) method. In the standard implementation of the SOV method, convergence can be slow and accuracy lacking. Another method of generating a solution to this problem makes use of time-partitioning which can produce accurate results. However, numerical integration may be required in these cases, which, in some ways, negates the advantages offered by the analytical solutions. The method given herein requires no numerical integration; it also exhibits exponential series convergence and can provide excellent accuracy. The procedure involves the derivation of previously-unknown simpler forms for the summations, in some cases by virtue of the use of algebraic components. Also, a mathematical identity given in this paper can be used for a variety of related problems.


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