Fashioning the sixties: fashion narratives of older women

2016 ◽  
Vol 38 (3) ◽  
pp. 455-475 ◽  
Author(s):  
JACKIE GOODE
Keyword(s):  
Older Women ◽  
The United Kingdom ◽  
The Sixties ◽  
Students Attitudes ◽  
Mind Set ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The One ◽  
Fashion Designers ◽  
The Guardian ◽  
Art Schools

ABSTRACTThe popular media suggest that we are witnessing ‘a fashion for older women’ and that ‘the latest new faces to light up campaigns and covers’ are retirees (The Guardian, 16 September 2012). Do fashion designers know this? On the one hand, Sir Christopher Frayling, former Rector of the Royal College of Art in the United Kingdom, observes that we need a change in mind-set for the art school of the future since design students’ attitudes to designing for older people is that it is really boring (‘Start the Week’, BBC Radio 4, 19 November 2012). On the other hand, the sculptor Antony Gormley states that ‘Art schools are the things that reinforce agency in the world’. This paper emerges out of an ongoing conversation between a group of women friends about how they feel about clothes and the fashion choices on offer to them. The women constitute a sub-group of women in their sixties who grew up in the 1960s, against a background of ‘cultural revolution’ in British fashion that emerged out of the art schools.

L'Institut de l'environnement

2018 ◽  
Vol 41 (2) ◽  
pp. 305-333 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tony Cóme
Keyword(s):  
Research Unit ◽  
Complex Interdependence ◽  
French Art ◽  
Teachers And Students ◽  
German School ◽  
Andre Malraux ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The One ◽  
Art Schools ◽  
Final Closure

Précis Si, aux yeux des rares Français qui la visitèrent durant les années 1960, la Hochschule für Gestaltung d'Ulm s'affirma comme un lieu d'étude exemplaire, le climat régnant au sein de cette prestigieuse école de design allemande allait irréversiblement se dégrader en 1968. La complicité qui semblait établie entre enseignants et étudiants allait être mise à mal au cours du mois de mai 1968. Des Français essayèrent néanmoins de faire infuser l'esprit de cet établissement allemand, descendant du Bauhaus, au sein des écoles d'art françaises. Lors des assemblées générales et des commissions pédagogiques de Mai 1968, ceux-ci contribuèrent à la création d'une unité d'enseignement et de recherche pluridisciplinaire animée par plusieurs membres de l'école d'Ulm et soutenue par André Malraux : l'Institut de l'environnement. Les grèves et révoltes étudiantes qui enflammèrent le Quartier latin eurent réciproquement une forte influence au sein de l'école d'Ulm, la conduisant à sa fermeture définitive. L'auteur analyse ici ces complexes effets de vases communicants. The few French visitors to the Ulm Hochschule für Gestaltung in the 1960s considered it an exemplary place to study. But the prevailing climate in this prestigious German school of design declined irreversibly in 1968. May ’68 challenged its atmosphere of productive collaboration between teachers and students. In France, however, some tried to instill the spirit of this Bauhaus‐affiliated German establishment in French art schools. On the one hand, during the general assemblies and educational commissions of May 1968, these individuals contributed to the creation of a multidisciplinary teaching and research unit led by several members of the Ulm school and supported by André Malraux: the Institut de l'Environnement. On the other hand, the student strikes and protests that raged through the Latin Quarter had a strong influence on the Hochschule für Gestaltung, leading to its final closure. The author analyzes this complex interdependence.

A 60-year dysfunctional relationship: How and why curriculum and assessment in fine art in England have always been problematic and still are

2019 ◽  
Vol 18 (2) ◽  
pp. 171-185
Author(s):  
Nicholas Houghton
Keyword(s):  
Fine Art ◽  
Art Practice ◽  
New Paradigm ◽  
Interdisciplinary Practice ◽  
Core Set ◽  
National Examinations ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The One ◽  
Standardized Examinations ◽  
Art Schools

This article gives a brief account of the last 60 years of fine art in English art schools, concentrating on the curriculum and assessment only. Sixty years ago, there were national examinations and teachers taught to the test. The main causes of changes to assessment and curriculum were policy decisions of the 1960s, which abolished national examinations. This was followed a decade later by the need to accommodate post-Duchampian art practice. This new paradigm of fine art placed an emphasis on criticality, information and interdisciplinary practice with a reduced role for self-expression, formalism and traditional skills. The challenge this offered to the curriculum was that there was no longer any core set of skills or knowledge that all students need to learn. This has come up against higher education sector requirements to provide a detailed description of what all students should learn and against which they are assessed. Behind this intractable contradiction lies a clash of two incompatible world-views: the one interpretive within fine art and the other positivist held by those who determine assessment policy. A consequence of the ubiquitous adoption of these assessment regimes and the pressures of marketization is that teaching to the test is once again becoming the norm, albeit without standardized examinations.

scholarly journals ‘How the hell did this get on tv?’: Naked dating shows as the final taboo on mainstream TV

2019 ◽  
Vol 22 (5-6) ◽  
pp. 700-717 ◽  
Author(s):  
Angela Smith
Keyword(s):  
United Kingdom ◽  
Game Show ◽  
The United Kingdom ◽  
Linguistic Strategies ◽  
History Of ◽  
The One ◽  
The Guardian ◽  
Further Development

There is a long history of dating shows on TV, most famously in the United Kingdom in the form of the long-running ITV show Blind Date, which ran from 1985 until 2003; its re-boot has returned to ITV1. The game-show format continues in shows such as Take Me Out (also ITV1) and Dinner Date (More 4). Elsewhere, the make-over shows that dominated the schedule in the late 1990s and first decade of the century morphed into relationship/dating shows, such as Gok’s Fashion Fix (Channel 4) and Snog, Marry, Avoid (BBC3). However, another relationship/make-over show, How to Look Good Naked (2006–2012, Channel 4) seems to have heralded a further development of this. While How to Look Good Naked never showed full frontal nudity, with participants always expressing the empowering nature of their ‘naked picture’ finale, in recent years there has been a further development of the nakedness theme across several dating shows that have a game-show format. The one that has caused most comment is Channel 4’s Naked Attraction, with The Guardian commenting that ‘the bottom of the barrel has been reached’. With full nudity, lingering close-ups and graphic descriptions, this show drove many viewers to Twitter to express dismay that this show has made it to mainstream TV, and led to The Guardian referring to this show as being symptomatic of dystopian TV since 2016. This article will explore how the shock of graphic nudity is ameliorated by the linguistic strategies of positive politeness with which all participants seem to collude and engage. Such amelioration would appear to be a defence against accusations of voyeuristic and pornographic content on mainstream TV.

EVALUATION OF THE UNITED KINGDOM NATIONAL EXTERNAL QUALITY ASSESSMENT SERVICE 2008 (UK NEQAS 2008) GUIDELINES FOR THE DIAGNOSIS OF SUBARACHNOID HEMORRHAGE USING SPECTROPHOTOMETRIC XANTHOCHROMIA: A RETROSPECTIVE STUDY

2009 ◽  
Vol 32 (6S) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
A Gangloff ◽  
L Nadeau
Keyword(s):  
Subarachnoid Hemorrhage ◽  
Cerebral Amyloid Angiopathy ◽  
Viral Encephalitis ◽  
Objective Evaluation ◽  
Final Diagnosis ◽  
Amyloid Angiopathy ◽  
The United Kingdom ◽  
Cerebral Amyloid ◽  
The One ◽  
The Uk

Objective: Evaluation of the UK NEQAS 2008 guidelines for the interpretation of spectrophotometric xanthochromia. Method: A search of the laboratory database for all the xanthochromia test results between May 1st 2008 and May 1st 2009 was performed. Medical charts were reviewed for patients of Hôpital de l’Enfant-Jésus (HEJ) that had at least one detectable pigment (bilirubin, oxyhemoglobin, or methemoglobin). Xanthochromia results obtained with 4 different criteria (Chalmers original, Modified Chalmers, Duiser and UK NEQAS 2008) were compared. Results: We reviewed 41 medical charts (2 patients with duplicate lumbar punctures (LP) for a total of 43 LP). For these 41 patients there were 11 positive xanthochromia results, 5 of which were in concordance with a final diagnosis of subarachnoid hemorrhage (SAH). The diagnosis of the 6 other positive xanthochromia results were as follow: meningeal spread of a lymphoma, cerebral amyloid angiopathy, exertional headache, viral encephalitis with a possibility of petechiaes on the cerebral CT and second LP. Interpretation (negative/positive) of 40/43 LP was identical for the 4 methods. 2 LP were positive with Duiser and UK NEQAS 2008 but negative with Chalmers approaches (final diagnosis: SAH and cerebral amyloid angiopathy). 1 LP was positive only by the Duiser method (viral encephalitis). Conclusions: UK NEQAS 2008 guidelines identified all SAH but are sensitive to traumatic and pathologic meningeal lesions. Except for a case of viral encephalitis with a suspicion of cerebral petechiaes on CT, UK NEQAS 2008 gave xanthochromia results similar to the one in use at HEJ (Duiser). Chalmers original and Modified Chalmers methods missed one of the five SAH.

Evolution de la gestion des chablis ces 50 dernières années dans la région du Bas-Valais (essai)

2015 ◽  
Vol 166 (3) ◽  
pp. 129-134
Author(s):  
Roland Métral
Keyword(s):  
Natural Hazards ◽  
Dead Wood ◽  
Task Force ◽  
Critical Assessment ◽  
Forest Dieback ◽  
Research Activities ◽  
Mind Set ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The Mind ◽  
Management Priorities

Trends in windthrow management during the last 50 years in Lower Valais (essay) A review on the measures taken in forests hit by storms during the last 50 years reveals the mind-set behind the evolution of management operations. In the 1960s, to remove all dead wood in a stand was perfectly normal due to timber prices. Between 1984 and 1990, vast sums of money were pumped into the improvement of forest structures facing the threat of a general forest dieback. As a consequence, only few of the windthrow areas caused by storm Vivian remained with no intervention. Vivian also marked the beginning of manifold research activities and practical terrain examination in windthrow gaps. Conclusions of this first research phase resulted in a critical assessment of the windthrow areas caused by Lothar in 1999, considering different goals than systematic removal of damage wood and the prevention of bark beetle outbreaks. Since the 1990s, retaining timber after windthrow has been lively discussed, as well as the maintenance of the protection function against natural hazards and opportunities for biodiversity. Several handbooks were developed and successfully used for the planning and defining of top priority measures in damaged forests that resulted from disturbances in 2011 and 2012 in Lower Valais. These recent disturbances together with the certainty that storms will recur led to the formation of a task force in the canton Valais, aiming to organize both logistics and funds, as well as to define management priorities regarding a next hazard.

Compressed Development

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. Hugh Whittaker ◽  
Timothy Sturgeon ◽  
Toshie Okita ◽  
Tianbiao Zhu
Keyword(s):  
Social Development ◽  
Global Economy ◽  
National Development ◽  
Value Chains ◽  
Middle Income ◽  
The United Kingdom ◽  
Development Processes ◽  
Multiple Levels ◽  
New Perspective ◽  
The One

This book highlights the importance of time and timing in economic and social development. ‘Compressed development’ consists of two key features and their interaction: the tendency for development processes to unfold more rapidly (compression) and the institution-shaping influences of major periods of change and growth, especially when countries become integrated into the global economy (era). Using an interdisciplinary conceptual framework of state–market and organization–technology co-evolution, the authors contrast the experiences of ‘early’ and ‘late’ developers such as the United Kingdom and Japan, with countries–most notably China–which have become more deeply integrated with the global economy since the 1990s. Compressed developers experience ‘thin industrialization’, layered types of employment, and ‘double burdens’ or challenges in social development. National development strategies must accommodate global value chains and powerful international actors on the one hand, and decentralization on the other. To cope, and thrive, states must remain developmental, whilst being increasingly engaged and adaptive in multiple levels of governance. Compressed Development explores the historical and contemporary features of economic and social development at the intersection of development studies and studies of globalization. By bringing a new perspective on the ‘middle-income trap’, as well as the emerging digital economy, and the state–market and geopolitical tensions that are currently upending conventional wisdoms, the book offers timely insights that will be useful, not only for students of development, but for policymakers, business, and labour organization seeking to navigate the rushing currents of contemporary capitalism.

To Discriminate in Order to Fight Discrimination

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dolores Morondo Taramundi
Keyword(s):  
Human Rights ◽  
United Kingdom ◽  
The Other ◽  
The United Kingdom ◽  
European Court ◽  
Main Technique ◽  
Antidiscrimination Law ◽  
The One ◽  
Paradoxical Results ◽  
Conflicts Of Rights

This chapter analyses arguments regarding conflicts of rights in the field of antidiscrimination law, which is a troublesome and less studied area of the growing literature on conflicts of rights. Through discussion of Ladele and McFarlane v. The United Kingdom, a case before the European Court of Human Rights, the chapter examines how the construction of this kind of controversy in terms of ‘competing rights’ or ‘conflicts of rights’ seems to produce paradoxical results. Assessment of these apparent difficulties leads the discussion in two different directions. On the one hand, some troubles come to light regarding the use of the conflict of rights frame itself in the field of antidiscrimination law, particularly in relation to the main technique (‘balancing of rights’) to solve them. On the other hand, some serious consequences of the conflict of rights frame on the development of the antidiscrimination theory of the ECtHR are unearthed.

Structural Transformation and Inclusive Growth

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Andy Sumner
Keyword(s):  
Structural Transformation ◽  
Global Economy ◽  
Focal Point ◽  
Import Substitution ◽  
National Development ◽  
Inclusive Growth ◽  
1960S And 1970S ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The One ◽  
Import Substitution Industrialization

This chapter reviews currents in theory with a focus on modernization and neoclassical statements of comparative advantage on the one hand, and structuralism, dependency, and other theories of underdevelopment on the other. The latter theories of underdevelopment hit their zenith in the policies of the import-substitution industrialization of the 1960s and 1970s. They were largely dismissed in the 1980s as the limits of import-substitution industrialization became apparent and as East Asia industrialized, undermining any argument that structural transformation was problematic in the periphery. This chapter theorizes that neither orthodox nor heterodox theories of structural transformation adequately explain the development of late developers because of the heterogeneity of contemporary capitalism. That said, heterodox theories, which coalesce around the nature of incorporation of developing countries into the global economy, do retain conceptual usefulness in their focal point, ‘developmentalism’, by which we mean the deliberate attempts at national development led by the state.

Public Opinion, Party Politics, and the Welfare State

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Johannes Lindvall ◽  
David Rueda
Keyword(s):  
Public Opinion ◽  
Welfare State ◽  
Party System ◽  
Median Voter ◽  
Party Politics ◽  
The United Kingdom ◽  
Party Positions ◽  
Long Run ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The Welfare State

This chapter examines the long-run relationship between public opinion, party politics, and the welfare state. It argues that when large parties receive a clear signal concerning the median voter’s position on the welfare state, vote-seeking motivations dominate and the large parties in the party system converge on the position of the median voter. When the position of the median voter is more difficult to discern, however, policy-seeking motivations dominate, and party positions diverge. This argument implies that the effects of government partisanship on welfare state policy are more ambiguous than generally understood. The countries covered in the chapter are Denmark, France, Germany, Norway and the United Kingdom (going back to the 1960s). The number of observations is (necessarily) limited, but the diverse cases illustrate a common electoral dynamic centered around the position of the median voter.

scholarly journals Lost in Migration – Mirandese at a Crossroads

2019 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 488-495
Author(s):  
Cláudia Martins ◽  
Sérgio Ferreira
Keyword(s):  
Minority Language ◽  
Three Dimensions ◽  
Highly Qualified ◽  
Linguistic Rights ◽  
The Bible ◽  
Literary Forms ◽  
Before And After ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The One ◽  
The 19Th Century

AbstractThe linguistic rights of Mirandese were enshrined in Portugal in 1999, though its “discovery” dates back to the very end of the 19th century at the hands of Leite de Vasconcellos. For centuries, it was the first or only language spoken by people living in the northeast of Portugal, particularly the district of Miranda do Douro. As a minority language, it has always moved among three dimensions. On the one hand, the need to assert and defend this language and have it acknowledged by the country, which proudly believe(d) in their monolingual history. Unavoidably, this has ensued the action of translation, especially active from the mid of the 20th century onwards, with an emphasis on the translation of the Bible and Portuguese canonical literature, as well as other renowned literary forms (e.g. The Adventures of Asterix). Finally, the third axis lies in migration, either within Portugal or abroad. Between the 1950s and the 1960s, Mirandese people were forced to leave Miranda do Douro and villages in the outskirts in the thousands. They fled not only due to the deeply entrenched poverty, but also the almost complete absence of future prospects, enhanced by the fact that they were regarded as not speaking “good” Portuguese, but rather a “charra” language, and as ignorant backward people. This period coincided with the building of dams on the river Douro and the cultural and linguistic shock that stemmed from this forceful contact, which exacerbated their sense of not belonging and of social shame. Bearing all this in mind, we seek to approach the role that migration played not only in the assertion of Mirandese as a language in its own right, but also in the empowerment of new generations of Mirandese people, highly qualified and politically engaged in the defence of this minority language, some of whom were former migrants. Thus, we aim to depict Mirandese’s political situation before and after the endorsement of the Portuguese Law no. 7/99.

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