scholarly journals A note on the singularities in the theory of water waves with an inertial surface

Author(s):  
B. N. Mandal ◽  
Krishna Kundu

AbstractThis note is concerned with the derivation of velocity potentials describing the generation of infinitesimal gravity waves in a motionless liquid with an inertial surface composed of uniformly distributed floating particles, due to fundamental line and point sources with time-dependent strengths submerged in a liquid of finite constant depth.

Author(s):  
P. F. Rhodes-Robinson

AbstractIn this paper we develop the Laplace-transform method to solve initial-value problems for the velocity potential describing the generation of infinitesimal capillary-gravity waves in a motionless liquid with an inertial surface composed of uniformly distributed floating particles. The two principal problems considered are the forced motions due to a submerged wave source and an immersed vertical plane wave-maker, which begin to operate in a time-dependent manner at a given instant. The transformed potentials are calculated using techniques similar to those which are effective in traditional time-harmonic problems with a free surface. The steady-state development in the time-harmonic example taken demonstrates the existence of outgoing progressive waves under any inertial surface, in contrast to the case of no surface tension when such waves cannot propagate under an inertial surface that is too heavy. The solution is also noted of the Cauchy-Poisson problem for the free motion flowing an intial elevation of the inertial surface, which is obtained by the same method.


Author(s):  
Didier Clamond

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


Modern applications of water-wave studies, as well as some recent theoretical developments, have shown the need for a systematic and accurate calculation of the characteristics of steady, progressive gravity waves of finite amplitude in water of arbitrary uniform depth. In this paper the speed, momentum, energy and other integral properties are calculated accurately by means of series expansions in terms of a perturbation parameter whose range is known precisely and encompasses waves from the lowest to the highest possible. The series are extended to high order and summed with Padé approximants. For any given wavelength and depth it is found that the highest wave is not the fastest. Moreover the energy, momentum and their fluxes are found to be greatest for waves lower than the highest. This confirms and extends the results found previously for solitary and deep-water waves. By calculating the profile of deep-water waves we show that the profile of the almost-steepest wave, which has a sharp curvature at the crest, intersects that of a slightly less-steep wave near the crest and hence is lower over most of the wavelength. An integration along the wave profile cross-checks the Padé-approximant results and confirms the intermediate energy maximum. Values of the speed, energy and other integral properties are tabulated in the appendix for the complete range of wave steepnesses and for various ratios of depth to wavelength, from deep to very shallow water.


1992 ◽  
Vol 241 ◽  
pp. 333-347 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. Baesens ◽  
R. S. Mackay

Numerical work of many people on the bifurcations of uniformly travelling water waves (two-dimensional irrotational gravity waves on inviscid fluid of infinite depth) suggests that uniformly travelling water waves have a reversible Hamiltonian formulation, where the role of time is played by horizontal position in the wave frame. In this paper such a formulation is presented. Based on this viewpoint, some insights are given into bifurcations from Stokes’ family of periodic waves. It is demonstrated numerically that there is a ‘fold point’ at amplitude A0 ≈ 0.40222. Assuming non-degeneracy of the fold and existence of an associated centre manifold, this explains why a sequence of p/q-bifurcations occurs on one side of A0, with 0 < p/q [les ] ½, in the order of the rationals. Secondly, it explains why no symmetry-breaking bifurcation is observed at A0, contrary to the expectations of some. Thirdly, it explains why the bifurcation tree for periodic uniformly travelling waves looks so much like that for the area-preserving Hénon map. Fourthly, it leads to predictions of a rich variety of spatially quasi-periodic, heteroclinic and chaotic waves.


2000 ◽  
Vol 423 ◽  
pp. 275-291 ◽  
Author(s):  
MICHAEL S. LONGUET-HIGGINS

A new system of equations for calculating time-dependent motions of deep-water gravity waves (Balk 1996) is here developed analytically and set in a form suitable for practical applications. The method is fully nonlinear, and has the advantage of essential simplicity. Both the potential and the kinetic energy involve polynomial expressions of low degree in the Fourier coefficients Yn(t). This leads to equations of motion of correspondingly low degree. Moreover the constants in the equations are very simple. In this paper the equations of motion are specialized to standing waves, where the coefficients Yn are all real. Truncation of the series at low values of [mid ]n[mid ], say n < N, leads to ‘partial waves’ with solutions apparently periodic in the time t. For physical applications N must however be large. The method will be applied to the breaking of standing waves by the forming of sharp corners at the crests, and the generation of vertical jets rising from the wave troughs.


2021 ◽  
Vol 63 ◽  
pp. 377-419
Author(s):  
Larry K. Forbes ◽  
Stephen J. Walters ◽  
Graeme C. Hocking

A classical problem in free-surface hydrodynamics concerns flow in a channel, when an obstacle is placed on the bottom. Steady-state flows exist and may adopt one of three possible configurations, depending on the fluid speed and the obstacle height; perhaps the best known has an apparently uniform flow upstream of the obstacle, followed by a semiinfinite train of downstream gravity waves. When time-dependent behaviour is taken into account, it is found that conditions upstream of the obstacle are more complicated, however, and can include a train of upstream-advancing solitons. This paper gives a critical overview of these concepts, and also presents a new semianalytical spectral method for the numerical description of unsteady behaviour. doi:10.1017/S1446181121000341


Author(s):  
John A. Adam

This chapter deals with the underlying mathematics of surface gravity waves, defined as gravity waves observed on an air–sea interface of the ocean. Surface gravity waves, or surface waves, differ from internal waves, gravity waves that occur within the body of the water (such as between parts of different densities). Examples of gravity waves are wind-generated waves on the water surface, as well tsunamis and ocean tides. Wind-generated gravity waves on the free surface of the Earth's seas, oceans, ponds, and lakes have a period of between 0.3 and 30 seconds. The chapter first describes the basic fluid equations before discussing the dispersion relations, with a particular focus on deep water waves, shallow water waves, and wavepackets. It also considers ship waves and how dispersion affects the wave pattern produced by a moving object, along with long and short waves.


Fluids ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 4 (2) ◽  
pp. 96 ◽  
Author(s):  
Georgi Gary Rozenman ◽  
Shenhe Fu ◽  
Ady Arie ◽  
Lev Shemer

We present the theoretical models and review the most recent results of a class of experiments in the field of surface gravity waves. These experiments serve as demonstration of an analogy to a broad variety of phenomena in optics and quantum mechanics. In particular, experiments involving Airy water-wave packets were carried out. The Airy wave packets have attracted tremendous attention in optics and quantum mechanics owing to their unique properties, spanning from an ability to propagate along parabolic trajectories without spreading, and to accumulating a phase that scales with the cubic power of time. Non-dispersive Cosine-Gauss wave packets and self-similar Hermite-Gauss wave packets, also well known in the field of optics and quantum mechanics, were recently studied using surface gravity waves as well. These wave packets demonstrated self-healing properties in water wave pulses as well, preserving their width despite being dispersive. Finally, this new approach also allows to observe diffractive focusing from a temporal slit with finite width.


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