Numerical Modeling of the Influence of the Beach Profile on Wave Run-Up

Author(s):  
Luciano Soldini ◽  
Matteo Antuono ◽  
Maurizio Brocchini
2017 ◽  
Vol 360 ◽  
pp. 378-386 ◽  
Author(s):  
Haifei Liu ◽  
Jie Zhang ◽  
Hongda Wang ◽  
Yu Ding ◽  
Yujun Yi

2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (22) ◽  
pp. 12794
Author(s):  
Ramin Safari Ghaleh ◽  
Omid Aminoroayaie Yamini ◽  
S. Hooman Mousavi ◽  
Mohammad Reza Kavianpour

Shoreline protection remains a global priority. Typically, coastal areas are protected by armoring them with hard, non-native, and non-sustainable materials such as limestone. To increase the execution speed and environmental friendliness and reduce the weight of individual concrete blocks and reinforcements, concrete blocks can be designed and implemented as Articulated Concrete Block Mattress (ACB Mat). These structures act as an integral part and can be used as a revetment on the breakwater body or shoreline protection. Physical models are one of the key tools for estimating and investigating the phenomena in coastal structures. However, it does have limitations and obstacles; consequently, in this study, numerical modeling of waves on these structures has been utilized to simulate wave propagation on the breakwater, via Flow-3D software with VOF. Among the factors affecting the instability of ACB Mat are breaking waves as well as the shaking of the revetment and the displacement of the armor due to the uplift force resulting from the failure. The most important purpose of the present study is to investigate the ability of numerical Flow-3D model to simulate hydrodynamic parameters in coastal revetment. The run-up values of the waves on the concrete block armoring will multiply with increasing break parameter (0.5<ξm−1,0<3.3) due to the existence of plunging waves until it (Ru2%Hm0=1.6) reaches maximum. Hence, by increasing the breaker parameter and changing breaking waves (ξm−1,0>3.3) type to collapsing waves/surging waves, the trend of relative wave run-up changes on concrete block revetment increases gradually. By increasing the breaker index (surf similarity parameter) in the case of plunging waves (0.5<ξm−1,0<3.3), the low values on the relative wave run-down are greatly reduced. Additionally, in the transition region, the change of breaking waves from plunging waves to collapsing/surging (3.3<ξm−1,0<5.0), the relative run-down process occurs with less intensity.


Author(s):  
Berna Ayat Aydogan ◽  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi ◽  
Yalçın Yüksel ◽  
Burak AydoÄŸan

This study aimed to determine beach response in the presence of a vertical wall placed in the run-up zone. The responses of natural beach and the beach with a seawall with two different configurations were studied numerically. The capability and limitation of the cross-shore numerical model CSHORE in simulating the cross-shore transformation and the beach evolution in front of a seawall situated inside the surf zone was examined. Numerical model results were compared with small scale laboratory tests (Yüksel et. al, 2014). Offshore transport was observed in all three tests and the model was shown to predict the same trends in profile evolution. Scour depth in front of the vertical wall was correctly captured by the numerical model.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (8) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
Tsutomu Kishi

On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation. In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief considerations are given to the effects of bottom friction on wave transformation. In § 2, breaking of a long wave is discussed. Breakings on a uniformly sloping beach and on a beach of parabolic profile are considered and the effects of beach profile on breaking are clarified. Finally in § 3, experimental results on wave run-up over l/30 slope are described in comparing with the Kaplan's results.


Author(s):  
Shinji KIOKA ◽  
Tsutomu ENDO ◽  
Takahiro TAKEUCHI ◽  
Yasunori WATANABE

2012 ◽  
Vol 64 (12) ◽  
pp. 1247-1257 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kazuhisa Goto ◽  
Koji Fujima ◽  
Daisuke Sugawara ◽  
Shigehiro Fujino ◽  
Kentaro Imai ◽  
...  

2001 ◽  
Vol 1 (4) ◽  
pp. 233-242 ◽  
Author(s):  
H. Hébert ◽  
F. Schindelé ◽  
P. Heinrich

Abstract. Earthquakes occurring at the Pacific Rim can trigger tsunamis that propagate across the ocean and can produce significant damages far away from the source. In French Polynesia, the Marquesas Islands are the most exposed to the far-field tsunami hazards, since they are not protected by any outer coral reef and since submarine slopes are less steep than in other islands. Between 1994 and 1996, four tsunamis have reached the bays of the archipelago, among them, the tsunami initiated by the Chilean Mw 8.1 earthquake, produced up to 3 m high waves in Tahauku Bay. Numerical modeling of these recent events has already allowed us to validate our method of resolution of hydrodynamics laws through a finite-difference scheme that simulates the propagation of the tsunamis across the ocean and computes the inundation heights (run-up) in remote bays. We present in this paper the simulations carried out to study potentially threatening areas located at the Pacific Rim, on the seismogenic Aleutian and Tonga subduction zones. We use a constant seismic moment source (that of the Mw 8.1 Chile 1995 earthquake, M0 = 1.2 1021 N.m) located at several potential epicenters, with the fault strike adapted from the regional seismotectonics pattern. Our results show that the sources chosen in the Aleutian trench do not produce large inundations in the Marquesas bays, except for the easternmost source (longitude 194° E). Sources located in the Tonga trench do not produce high amplifications either, except for the northernmost one (latitude 16° S). We also discuss the behaviour of the tsunami waves within the archipelago, and evidence contrasting responses depending on the arrival azimuths. These results show that, for a given initial seismic energy, the tsunami amplification in remote bays is highly dependent on the source location and fault strike.


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