Assessment of jeans sewing thread consumption by applying metaheuristic optimization methods

2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Boubaker Jaouachi ◽  
Faouzi Khedher
Keyword(s):  
Optimization Techniques ◽  
Shop Floor ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Time Processing ◽  
Metaheuristic Optimization ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Metaheuristic Methods ◽  
Input Parameters ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications

PurposeThis work highlights the optimization of the consumed amount of sewing thread required to make up a pair of jeans using three different metaheuristic methods; particular swarm optimization (PSO), ant colony optimization (ACO) and genetic algorithm (GA) techniques. Indeed, using metaheuristic optimization techniques enable industrialists to reach the lowest sewing thread quantities in terms of bobbins per garments. Besides, the compared results of this research can obviously prove the impact of each input parameter on the optimization of the sewing thread consumption per pair of jeans.Design/methodology/approachTo assess objectively the sewing thread consumption, the optimized sewing conditions such as thread composition, needle size and fabric composition are investigated and discussed. Hence, a Taguchi design was elaborated to evaluate and optimize objectively the linear model consumption. Thanks to its principal characteristics and popularity, denim fabric is selected to analyze objectively the effects of studied input parameters. In addition, having workers with same skills and qualifications to repeat each time the same sewing process will involve having the same sewing thread consumption values. This can occur in some levels such as end of sewing, the number of machine failures, the kind of failure and its complexity, the competency of the mechanic and his way to repair failure, the loss of thread caused by threading and its frequency. Seam repetition due to operator lack of skill will obviously affect clothing appearance and hence quality decision. Interesting findings and significant relationship between input parameters and the amount of sewing thread consumption are established.FindingsAccording to the comparative results obtained using metaheuristic methods, the PSO and ACO technique gives the lowest values of the consumption within the best combination of input parameters. The results show the accuracy of the applied metaheuristic methods to optimize the consumed amount needed to sew a pair of jeans with a notable superiority of both PSO and ACO methods compared to experimental ones. However, compared to GA method, ACO and PSO algorithms remained the most accurate techniques allowing industrials to minimize the consumed thread used to sew jeans. They can also widely optimize and predict the consumed thread in the investigated experimental design of interest. Consequently, compared to experimental results and regarding the low error values obtained, it may be concluded that the metaheuristic methods can optimize and evaluate both studied input and output parameters accurately.Practical implicationsThis study is most useful for denim industrial applications, which makes it possible to anticipate, calculate and minimize the high consumption of sewing threads. This paper has not only practical implications for clothing appearance and quality but also for reduction in thread wastage occurring during shop floor conditions like machine running, thread breakage, repairs, etc. (Kawabata and Niwa, 1991). Unless the used sewing machine is equipped within a thread trimmer improvement in garment seam appearance cannot be achieved. By comparing and analyzing the operating activities of the regular lock stitch 301 machine with and without a thread trimmer, a difference in time processing can be grasped (Magazine JUKI Corporation, 2008). Time consumed in trimming by a lockstitch machine without a thread trimmer equals 3.1 s compared to 2.6 s by a thread trimming one. Hence, the reduction rate in the time processing equals 16.30%. This paper aimed to implement the optimal consumption (thread waste outstanding number of trials). Unless highly skilled workers are selected and well-motivated, the previous recommended changes will not be applied. The saved cost of the sewing thread reduction can be used to buy a better quality of fabric and/or thread. However, these factors are not always the same as they can vary according to customer's requirements because thread consumption is never a standard for sewn product categories such as trousers, shirts and footwear (Khedher and Jaouachi, 2015).Originality/valueUntil now, there is no work dealing with the investigation of the metaheuristic optimization of the consumed thread per pair of jeans to minimize accurately the amount of sewing thread as well as the sewing thread wastage. Even though these techniques of optimization are currently in full development due to some advantages such as generality and possible application to a large class of combinatorial and constrained assignment problems, efficiency for many problems in providing good quality approximate solutions for a large number of classical optimization problems and large-scale real applications, etc., are not applied yet to decrease sewing thread consumption. Some recent published works used statistical techniques (Taguchi, factorial, etc.), to evaluate approximate consumptions; conversely, other geometrical and mathematical approaches, considering some assumptions, used stitch geometry and remained insufficient to give the industrialists an implemented application generating the exact value of the consumed amount of sewing thread. Generally, in the clothing field 10–15% of sewing thread wastage should be added to the experimental approximate consumption value. Moreover, all investigations are focused on the approximative evaluations and theoretical modeling of sewing thread consumption as function of some input parameters. Practically, the obtained results are successfully applied and the ACO method gives the most accurate results. On the other hand, in the point of view of industrialists the applied metaheuristic methods (based on algorithms) used to decrease the amount of consumed thread remained an easy and fruitful solution that can allow them to control the number of sewing thread bobbin per garments.

Recovery velocity evaluation of bagged denim fabrics as function of frictional parameters

2015 ◽  
Vol 27 (2) ◽  
pp. 302-314 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mouna Gazzah ◽  
Boubaker Jaouachi ◽  
Faouzi Sakli
Keyword(s):  
Relaxation Time ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Weft Yarn ◽  
Linear Regression Method ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Rigidity Parameter ◽  
Input Parameters ◽  
Denim Fabric ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to predict the bagging recovery velocity of bagged denim fabric samples. Hence, the authors attempt to carry out a model highlighting and explaining the impact of some considered frictional parameters such as yarn-to-yarn friction expressed as weft yarn rigidity parameter and metal-to-fabric friction expressed by mean frictional coefficient parameter. Design/methodology/approach – The statistical analysis steps were implemented using experimental design type Taguchi and thanks to Minitab 14 software. The modeling methodology analyzed in this paper deals with the linear regression method application and analysis. The predictive power of the obtained model is evaluated by comparing the estimated recovery velocity (theoretical) with the actual values. These comparative values are measured after the bagging test and during the relaxation time of the denim fabric samples. The regression coefficient (R2) values as well as the statistical tests (p-values, analysis of variance results) were investigated, discussed and analyzed to improve the findings. Findings – According to the statistical results given by Taguchi analysis findings, the regression model is very significant (p-regression=0.04 and R2=97 percent) which explains widely the possibility of bagging behavior prediction in the studied experimental field of interest. Indeed the variation (the increase or the decrease) of the frictional input parameters values caused, as a result, the variation of the whole appearance and the shape of the bagged zone expressed by the residual bagging height variations. In spite of their similar compositions and characteristics, the woven bagged fabrics presented differently behaviors in terms of the bagging recovery and kinetic velocity values. After relaxation times which are not the same and relative to different fabric samples, it may be concluded that bagging behavior remained function of the internal frictional stresses, especially yarn-to-yarn and metal-to-fabric ones. Practical implications – This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. In fact, in terms of the importance to the industrial producers of the materials it helps to provide a first step in an attempt for a better understanding of the stresses involved in bagging of woven fabrics in general and denim fabrics particularly due to important frictional input contributions. They provide the basis for the development of fabrics that can withstand bagging problems. This research may also put forward improved methods of measuring bagginess as function of frictional parameters in order to optimize (minimize) their effects on the bagging behaviors before and after repetitive uses. These experimental, statistical and theoretical findings may be used to predict bagginess of fabrics based on their properties and prevent industrial from the most significant and influential inputs which should be adjusted accurately. This work allows industrial, also, to make more attention, in case of a high-quality level to ensure, to optimize and review yarn behaviors used to produce fabrics against drastic solicitations and minimize frictions forms during experimental spinning and weaving processes. Originality/value – Until now, there is no sufficient information to evaluate and predict the effect of the yarn-to-yarn friction as well as metal-to-yarn one on the residual bagging behavior. Besides, there is no work that deals with the kinetic recovery evolution as function of frictional inputs to explain accurately the bagging behavior evolution during relaxation time. Therefore, this present work is to investigate and model the residual bagging recovery velocity after bagging test as function of the frictional input parameters of both denim yarn and fabric samples (expressed by the friction caused due to contact from conformator to fabric).

Perceived workplace gender-bias and psychological impact

2019 ◽  
Vol 43 (3/4) ◽  
pp. 339-353 ◽  
Author(s):  
Siham Lekchiri ◽  
Cindy Crowder ◽  
Anna Schnerre ◽  
Barbara A.W. Eversole
Keyword(s):  
Gender Bias ◽  
Critical Incident ◽  
Psychological Impact ◽  
Working Women ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Treatment Bias ◽  
Male Dominated ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Organizational Mechanisms ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to explore the experiences of working women in a male-dominated country (Morocco) and unveil the unique challenges and everyday gender-bias they face, the psychological impact of the perceived gender-bias and, finally, identify a variety of coping strategies or combatting mechanisms affecting their motivation and retention in the workplace. Design/methodology/approach Empirical evidence was obtained using a qualitative research method. The Critical Incident Technique (CIT) was used to collect incidents recalled by women in the select institution reflecting their perceptions of their managers’ ineffective behaviors towards them and the impact of these behaviors. The critical incidents were inductively coded, and behavioral statements were derived from the coded data. Findings The qualitative data analysis led them to structure the data according to two theme clusters: The perceived gender-bias behaviors (Covert and evident personal and organizational behaviors) and Psychological impacts resulting from the perceived bias. These behavioral practices included abusive behaviors, unfair treatment, bias and lack of recognition. The psychological impact elements involved decreased productivity, depression, anxiety and low self-esteem. Practical implications Understanding these experiences can facilitate the identification of strategies geared towards the retention of women in the workforce, and Moroccan organizations can develop and implement strategies and policies that are geared towards eliminating gender-bias in the workplace and to retaining and motivating women who remain ambitious to work in male-dominated environments and cultures. Originality/value This paper provides evidence that sufficient organizational mechanisms to support women in male-dominated environments are still unavailable, leaving them to find the proper coping mechanisms to persevere and resist.

Embedding employability within higher education for the profession of policing

2019 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 319-328
Author(s):  
Ian Pepper ◽  
Ruth McGrath
Keyword(s):  
Higher Education ◽  
Design Methodology ◽  
Research Study ◽  
Longitudinal Research ◽  
Evidence Base ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Educational Provision ◽  
Professional Body ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the impact of an employability module, the College of Policing Certificate in Knowledge of Policing (CKP), on students’ career aspirations, their confidence and wish to join the police along with the appropriateness of the module. This will inform the implementation of employability as part of the College of Policing-managed Police Education Qualifications Framework (PEQF). Design/methodology/approach A three-year longitudinal research study used mixed methods across four points in time to evaluate the impact on students studying the employability module. Findings The research suggests that the employability-focussed CKP was useful as an introduction to policing, it developed interest in the police and enhanced the confidence of learners applying to join. Lessons learnt from the CKP should be considered during the implementation of the PEQF. Research limitations/implications The ability to generalise findings across different groups is limited as other influences may impact on a learner’s confidence and employability. However, the implications for the PEQF curriculum are worthy of consideration. Practical implications As the police service moves towards standardised higher educational provision and evolution of policing as a profession, lessons can be learnt from the CKP with regards to the future employability of graduates. Originality/value Enhancing the employability evidence base, focussing on policing, the research identified aspects which may impact on graduates completing a degree mapped to the PEQF. The research is therefore of value to higher education and the professional body for policing.

Employee emotional displays in the extended service encounter

2019 ◽  
Vol 31 (1) ◽  
pp. 115-136 ◽  
Author(s):  
Magnus Soderlund ◽  
Hanna Berg
Keyword(s):  
Marketing Communications ◽  
Emotional Expressions ◽  
Service Firms ◽  
Still Images ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Emotional Displays ◽  
Service Setting ◽  
Low Levels ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to examine the impact of happiness expressed by service firm employees when they are depicted in marketing communications materials, such as printed ads and videos. Design/methodology/approach Two experiments were conducted in a fitness service setting, in which employee display of happiness was manipulated (low vs high). Findings Both experiments showed that expressions of high levels of happiness produced a more positive attitude toward the service employee than expressions of low levels of happiness. Moreover, the impact of the expression of happiness on the evaluation of the employee was mediated by several variables, which suggests that the influence of depicted employees’ emotional expressions can take several routes. Practical implications The results imply that service firms should not only be mindful about which specific employee they select for appearing in marketing communications materials, they should also pay attention to the emotional displays of selected employees. Originality/value The present study contributes to previous research by assessing a set of potential mediators to explain why displays of happiness influence consumers, and by examining these effects in a marketing communications setting in which the customer is exposed to still images or video-based representations of the employee. The present study also focuses explicitly on happiness rather than on smiles.

Understanding how the contextual variables influence political behaviour in strategic decision-making

2014 ◽  
Vol 7 (3) ◽  
pp. 226-250 ◽  
Author(s):  
Said Elbanna ◽  
Ioannis C. Thanos ◽  
Vassilis M. Papadakis
Keyword(s):  
Decision Making ◽  
Strategic Decision ◽  
Strategic Decision Making ◽  
Strategic Decisions ◽  
Empirical Examination ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Political Behaviour ◽  
Practitioner Education ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to enhance the knowledge of the antecedents of political behaviour. Whereas political behaviour in strategic decision-making (SDM) has received sustained interest in the literature, empirical examination of its antecedents has been meagre. Design/methodology/approach – The authors conducted a constructive replication to examine the impact of three layers of context, namely, decision, firm and environment, on political behaviour. In Study 1, Greece, we gathered data on 143 strategic decisions, while in Study 2, Egypt, we collected data on 169 strategic decisions. Findings – The evidence suggests that both decision-specific and firm factors act as antecedents to political behaviour, while environmental factors do not. Practical implications – The findings support enhanced practitioner education regarding political behaviour and provide practitioners with a place from which to start by identifying the factors which might influence the occurrence of political behaviour in SDM. Originality/value – The paper fills important gaps in the existing research on the influence of context on political behaviour and delineates interesting areas for further research.

Reducing transportation emissions

2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (3) ◽  
pp. 674-703 ◽  
Author(s):  
Henrik Pålsson ◽  
Ola Johansson
Keyword(s):  
Service Providers ◽  
Freight Transportation ◽  
Industrial Sector ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Logistics Service Providers ◽  
Minor Influence ◽  
Transportation Emissions ◽  
Reduce Emissions ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to examine the intention of companies to reduce transportation emissions by 2020 and the barriers and the discriminating factors that affect the reduction. Design/methodology/approach – A literature review identified potential logistical and technical actions and their barriers, and discriminating factors for reducing transportation emissions. A survey of freight transport-intensive industries in Sweden examined the effects of, intention for implementation of and barriers to 12 actions to reduce CO2 emissions from freight transportation. In total, 172 logistics managers responded, representing a response rate of 40.3 per cent. Findings – Logistics service providers (LSPs) and freight owners are likely to reduce a considerable amount of CO2 emissions from freight transportation by 2020 using a combination of actions. The lowest level of confidence was for reducing CO2 emissions by changing logistics structures, while there was greater confidence by means of operational changes. The actions have few barriers, but there is often a combination of barriers to overcome. Three discriminating factors influence the intention of a firm to reduce transportation emissions: perceived potential, company size and LSP/freight owner. The industrial sector of a freight owner has minor influence. Companies that are particularly likely to reduce emissions are LSPs, large companies, and those that perceive a large reduction potential. Research limitations/implications – Logistical and technical barriers appear to hinder companies from implementing actions, while organisational barriers and external prerequisites do not. Barriers cannot be used to predict companies’ intentions to reduce transportation emissions. The authors examined the impact of three discriminating factors on reduction of transportation emissions. The research is based on perceptions of well-informed managers and on companies in Sweden. Practical implications – The findings can be used by managers to identify firms for benchmarking initiatives and emissions-reducing strategies. Originality/value – The study provides insights into intended CO2 reductions in transportation by 2020. It presents new knowledge regarding barriers and discriminating factors for implementing actions to reduce transportation emissions.

Modeling the implicit brand: capturing the hidden drivers

2017 ◽  
Vol 26 (6) ◽  
pp. 600-615 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marco Vriens ◽  
Alessandro Martins Alves
Keyword(s):  
Durable Goods ◽  
Implicit Attitudes ◽  
Response Style ◽  
Brand Attitudes ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Explicit Attitudes ◽  
Brand Building ◽  
Implicit Data ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose This paper aims to investigate modeling implicit attitudes as potential drivers of overall brand attitudes and stated behavior and investigate how the results are expected to be different from brand driver models that are based on explicit attitudes. Design/methodology/approach Data are collected via online surveys in five countries across 15 categories with sample sizes for each category/country combination in the range of about N = 1,000. Findings Implicit attitudes result in a higher number of significant effects than their explicit counterparts when used to explain behavioral intentions, brand closeness and brand usage in a multivariate situation with potential 12 brand attitude drivers. The authors also find fewer counter-intuitive effects in the implicit models. The results are consistent across 5 countries and across 15 categories (including CPG products, services and durable goods). They also show that implicit attitudes are less susceptible to response style effects (e.g. social desirability bias). Research limitations/implications The findings have implications for brand building and shopper activation. Further research should look into the impact of using implicit data on finding different brand segmentation and brand mapping results. Practical implications The findings have implications for brand building and shopper activation. Originality/value This paper contributes to the fast-growing field of implicit attitudes. The paper confirms and generalizes previous findings. This is the first paper to the authors’ knowledge that has investigated the impact of implicit attitudes on overall brand attitudes and stated behavior in a multivariate context.

What makes court-referred mediation effective?

2014 ◽  
Vol 25 (1) ◽  
pp. 21-37 ◽  
Author(s):  
Amira Galin
Keyword(s):  
Design Methodology ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Process And Outcome ◽  
Refusal To Participate ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Practical Implications ◽  
Theoretical Insight ◽  
Insight Into ◽  
Low Rate

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to obtain insight into court-referred mediation in the Israeli Labor Courts, by analyzing its processes and outcomes, as a function of tactics used by both the disputants and the mediator. Design/methodology/approach – Observation of 103 court-referred mediations, for each of which a detailed process and outcome were documented. Data on disputants' refusal to participate in the mediation was also collected. At the end of each mediation case, disputants were given a questionnaire in which they expressed their satisfaction with the outcome and their evaluation of the mediator's contribution. Findings – A low rate of refusal to participate in court-referred mediation was found. Also, the higher the ratio of soft tactics to pressure tactics employed (by all parties involved) during the process, the higher the rate of agreements. Mediators use significantly more soft tactics than disputants, and are more active in using tactics. The two significant variables that predict the mediation's agreement are the ratio between soft tactics to pressure tactics used by all parties, and mediator contribution to the process. Practical implications – The significant role of soft tactics in the process, outcome, and satisfaction of court-referred mediation may serve as a guideline for disputants and mediators. Originality/value – This unique research, which examines the impact of tactics on court-referred mediation, may provide added and significant theoretical insight into its process and outcome, as well as a better understanding of other “hybrid” (compulsory at the beginning, voluntary at the end) mediations.

The impact of project methodologies on project success in different project environments

2016 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 364-388 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert Joslin ◽  
Ralf Müller
Keyword(s):  
Project Success ◽  
Research Model ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Industrial Sectors ◽  
Project Environment ◽  
Project Governance ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Matching Techniques ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to qualitatively validate the constructs of a theoretically derived research model while gaining insights to steer the direction of a greater study on methodologies, their elements, and their impact on project success. In doing so, to investigate whether different project environments, notably project governance, impacts the relationship between methodologies and project success. Design/methodology/approach – A deductive approach was applied to validate a theoretically derived research model. In total, 19 interviews across 11 industrial sectors and four countries were used to collect data. Pattern-matching techniques were utilized in the analysis to deductively validate the research model. Findings – There is a positive relationship between project methodology elements and the characteristics of project success; however, environmental factors, notably project governance, influence the use and effectiveness of a project methodology and its elements with a resulting impact on the characteristics of project success. Research limitations/implications – Project governance plays a major role in the moderating effect of a project methodology’s effectiveness. Contingency theory is applicable to a project’s methodology’s selection and its customization according to the project environment. Practical implications – Understand the impact of project methodologies and their elements on the characteristics of project success while being moderated by the project environment, for example, the risk of suboptimal project performance due to the effectiveness of methodology elements being negatively impacted by the project environment. Originality/value – The impact of a project methodology (collection of heterogeneous-related elements) on the characteristics of project success is identified while being moderated by the project environment, notably project governance.

FATCA violation underlies latest US tax and securities fraud charges

2015 ◽  
Vol 16 (1) ◽  
pp. 74-76
Author(s):  
Miriam Fisher ◽  
Brian McManus
Keyword(s):  
Law Enforcement ◽  
Service Providers ◽  
Task Force ◽  
Tax Compliance ◽  
Financial Fraud ◽  
Securities Fraud ◽  
Content Type ◽  
The Impact ◽  
First Time ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose – To explain the details and implications of a September 9, 2014 federal indictment, US v. Robert Bandfield, the first time a Foreign Account Tax Compliance Act (FATCA) violation has been charged as an “overt act” in furtherance of a tax conspiracy and securities fraud. Design/methodology/approach – Provides background, including the enactment of FATCA and the details of the indictment; describes an undercover investigation conducted by President Obama’s Financial Fraud Enforcement Task Force; and discusses the warnings this indictment sends to the global financial community. Findings – The indictment confirms the coordinated and aggressive tactics US law enforcement is now employing to investigate and prosecute offshore financial fraud. Practical implications – Banks and financial service providers need to be aware of the impact of enhanced US regulatory obligations and implement appropriate compliance measures. These institutions must also remain sensitive to risks presented by unscrupulous customers. Finally, they must be ready to manage appropriately information-gathering and investigatory inquiries originating with US authorities. Originality/value – Practical guidance from experienced tax controversy lawyers.

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