Evaluation of the air permeability of elastic knitted fabrics and their assemblies

2018 ◽  
Vol 30 (6) ◽  
pp. 839-853 ◽  
Author(s):  
Virginija Daukantiene ◽  
Giedre Vadeike
Keyword(s):  
Significant Influence ◽  
Thickness Measurement ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Dominant Factor ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
New Approach ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Fabric Thickness ◽  
Permeability Property

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the air permeability of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibre and their seams applying both the new approach based on fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and standard method. Design/methodology/approach Investigations were performed with commercially available eight polyester knitted fabrics containing different elastane yarn proportion. Bonded seams were laminated applying the urethane thermoplastic adhesive film of 0.175 mm thickness. Bonds were laminated by heat at 5.6 kPa pressure applying pressing device GTK DEA 25 R at 140°C temperature for 40 s duration. Sewn seams were assembled with 607 covering chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density and 512 overedge chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density. Specimens without and with the seams were conditioned in standard atmosphere conditions according to the standard LST EN ISO 139 before air permeability testing according to the standard LST EN ISO 9237. Standard thickness of the investigated knitted fabric was determined according to the standard EN ISO 5084. It is known from literature that the porosity is dominant factor influencing the air permeability of knitted fabrics. Therefore, the assumption was made that due to fabric porosity knitted fabric thickness being measured at different pressures also may differ. Thus, the permeability property may also be related to the difference between fabric’s thicknesses being measured under different pressures which may be applied with different material thickness gauges. Findings There was shown that fabric assemblies make the significant influence on the textile permeability to air. The results obtained indicate that the air permeability of the investigated knitted fabrics depends not only on their structure parameters but also on the fabric seam type. Air permeability of the specimens with the seams was lower than one of specimens without the seams. The highest decrease in permeability which ranged from 19.9 per cent up to 60.0 per cent was determined for the bonds. Fabric specimens with 607 covering chain stitch seam were in the second place with regard to the previously considered parameter. And, their permeability was decreased from 0.6 per cent up to 52.6 per cent. Changes in the air permeability of the specimens with 512 overedge chain stitch seam were lowest in the range of investigated assemblies. Based on the determined results, it was concluded that the thickness difference of the specimens with and without seams measured at different pressures is related to fabric porosity which makes the significant influence on the air permeability. Practical implications The samples of investigated fabrics were taken from the two companies which manufactures leisure clothing and sportswear such as skiing or swimming costumes, etc. Thus, the obtained investigation results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads the improvement of clothing quality in fashion industry. Originality/value Assuring the comfort of the human body is one of the most important functions of clothing, especially of sportswear and leisure wear. Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic, but also have high air permeability for easily transmit of the perspiration from the skin to the atmosphere, thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. In this research, the air permeability of commercially available polyester knitted fabrics containing different amount of elastane was investigated and the influence of fabric assemblies on the air permeability property was evaluated. A new approach based on the fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and the standard methods for the evaluation of air permeability were used.

A model on the viscoelastic behavior of sewn knitted fabrics

2019 ◽  
Vol 31 (3) ◽  
pp. 362-375
Author(s):  
Reyhaneh Shekarian ◽  
Sayyed Mahdi Hejazi ◽  
Mohammad Sheikhzadeh
Keyword(s):  
Significant Influence ◽  
Viscoelastic Behavior ◽  
Tensile Creep ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Retarded Time ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Thread Tension

Purpose Knitted fabrics have been widely used in a wide range of applications such as apparel industry. Since these fabrics are continuously subjected to the long-term tensile stresses or tensile creep in real conditions, investigation of viscoelastic behavior of sewn knitted fabrics would be important especially at the seamed area. The paper aims to discuss this issue. Design/methodology/approach A lockstitch machine was used to produce sewn samples by knitted fabric. Factors such as stitch per inch (SPI), thread tension and thread type were variables of the model. Tensile creep tests under constant load of 200 N were conducted, and creep compliance parameter D(t) of samples was obtained as a response variable. A successive residual method (SRM) was also used to characterize viscoelastic properties of sewn-seamed fabrics. Findings The instantaneous elastic responses of the seamed samples were less than those of the neat fabric (fabric with no seam). An increase in sewing thread strength increases the instantaneous elastic response of the sample. SPI and thread tension have an optimum value to increase E0. High tenacity polyester thread, due to its higher elastic modulus, caused a larger E0 than polyester/cotton thread in sewn knitted fabric. Characteristics of seam including sewing thread type, SPI and sewing tension have significant influence on T0. Sewn-seamed fabric by high modulus thread shows less viscous strain T0 than the neat fabric (fabric with no seam). Viscous strain T0 decreases as SPI changes from 8 to 4 and/or 12. SPI and thread tension have an optimum value to increase the viscous strain T0. E1 is the same for optimum seamed fabric and fabric sample but T1 is about two times greater for seamed fabric. Retarded time for creep recovery increases by sewing process but characteristics of seam have significant influence on E1 and T1. All sewn knitted fabric samples used in this study could be described by Burger’s model, which is a Maxwell model paralleled with a Kelvin one. Originality/value This paper is going to use a different method named successive residuals to model the creep behavior of seamed knitted fabric. On the whole, this paper paved a way to obtain viscoelastic constants of sewn-seamed knitted fabrics based on different sewing parameters such as the modulus of elasticity of the sewing thread, SPI and sewing thread tension.

Influence of sublimation process on air permeability and water absorption dynamics

2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Brigita Kalendraite ◽  
Jolita Krisciunaite ◽  
Daiva Mikucioniene
Keyword(s):  
Water Absorption ◽  
Design Methodology ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Sublimation Process ◽  
Textile Fabrics ◽  
High Temperature And Pressure ◽  
Before And After ◽  
Temperature And Pressure

PurposeThe purpose of this research was to find the influence of sublimation process on air permeability and water absorption dynamics of knitted and woven polyester-based fabrics.Design/methodology/approachThree different sublimation designs were prepared and applied (keeping the same sublimation parameters) for eight variants of knitted and four variants of woven polyester-based fabrics. Air permeability and water absorption dynamics during 180s period was measured and compared before and after the sublimation process.FindingsAccording to the obtained results, high temperature and pressure applied in sublimation process have influence on the porosity and air permeability of knitted fabrics; however, the influence on water absorption dynamics is minimal. Sublimation design dos not have any influence on the mentioned properties.Originality/valueThe obtained results of the sublimation process influence on air permeability and water absorption dynamics of knitted and woven polyester-based fabrics will help to understand how sublimation process can affect comfort properties of textile fabrics.

Optimization of Knitted Fabric Comfort and UV Protection using Desirability Function

2016 ◽  
Vol 11 (4) ◽  
pp. 155892501601100 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anindya Ghosh ◽  
Prithwiraj Mal ◽  
Abhijit Majumdar ◽  
Debmalya Banerjee
Keyword(s):  
Thermal Conductivity ◽  
Desirability Function ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Quality Parameters ◽  
Uv Protection ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Uv Resistance ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Target Values ◽  
Fabric Comfort

The present study deals with the optimization of multiple quality parameters of single jersey and 1×1 rib knitted fabrics using the desirability function approach. Comfort properties such as air permeability, thermal conductivity and safety properties such as UV protection are combined to yield an ‘overall desirability’ varying from zero to one. The overall desirability has been maximized versus target values for air permeability, thermal conductivity and UV resistance. Experimental validation confirms that the proposed method can be used to design a knitted fabric with desired comfort and UV resistance characteristics.

Pilot Study of PET/Bamboo Charcoal Warp-Knitted Fabric

2012 ◽  
Vol 184-185 ◽  
pp. 1090-1093 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jia Horng Lin ◽  
Ching Wen Lin ◽  
Chin Mei Lin ◽  
Yi Chang Yang ◽  
Ting Ting Li ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Far Infrared ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Weft Yarn ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Bamboo Charcoal ◽  
Health It ◽  
Warp Yarn ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Far Infrared Ray ◽  
Warp Knitted Fabric

In recent years, as improvement of human living life, people begin to focus on themselves health. It is certain that bamboo charcoal has many properties, including water purification, deodorization, anion release and far-infrared ray radiation. This study aims to prepare PET/BC warp-knitted fabric composed of polyester yarn (PET) as warp yarn and bamboo charcoal polyamine yarn (BC) as weft yarn using Velcro Crochet Machine. Afterwards, air permeability, elastic resilience and far-infrared ray emissivity of resulting knitted fabric were discussed by changing weft yarn type. Result shows that, for knitted fabrics, weft yarn type cannot affect the elastic resilience; yet PET weft yarn makes air permeability decreasing.

scholarly journals The Effect of Number and Position of Tuck Stitches within the Pattern Repeat on Air Permeability of Weft-knitted Fabrics from Glass Yarn

2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (3) ◽  
pp. 317-323
Author(s):  
Mehmet Erdem İnce
Keyword(s):  
Mechanical Properties ◽  
High Performance ◽  
Physical And Mechanical Properties ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Synthetic Fibers ◽  
Fabric Structure ◽  
Knit Fabrics ◽  
Weft Knitted Fabric

The fact that weft knitted fabrics has a stretchable, 3D, porous and interlocking structure makes them unique when manufactured from high performance fibers. Knitted fabrics with different architectures exhibit different properties. Different loop forms like tuck and skip stitches with various loop lengths reveal different physical and mechanical properties. Literature review indicated that wisely arrangement of tuck stitches within the pattern repeat alter the weft-knitted fabric structure from natural and synthetic fibers. Therefore, we studied the effect of number and location of tuck stiches on air permeability of weft-knitted fabrics from glass yarn. Single-bed, flat weft knitting machine was used to knit fabrics with different architectures from three-ply glass yarn. The nominal single-end count of used E-glass yarn was 136 tex. It is anticipated that the number and location of tuck stitches within knit pattern effect physical and air permeability properties of weft-knitted fabrics from glass yarn.

Prediction of deformation behavior of single jersey cotton knitted fabrics using finite element method

2014 ◽  
Vol 26 (3) ◽  
pp. 222-234 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. Perumalsamy ◽  
J.C. Sakthivel ◽  
N. Anbumani
Keyword(s):  
Finite Element ◽  
Tensile Test ◽  
Deformation Behavior ◽  
Structural Changes ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Loop Length ◽  
Loop Model ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Single Jersey

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to elucidate the stress-strain relationships of single-jersey knitted fabrics from uniaxial tensile test followed by deformation behavior using finite element analysis. In order to elaborate the study, high, medium and low tightness knitted fabrics were selected and deformation of fabrics analyzed in course, wales and bias directions (0, 45 and 90 degrees). Design/methodology/approach – This study focussed on uni-axial tensile test of produced test samples using Instron 6021 tester and a development of single-jersey knitted loop model using Auto Desk Inventor software (ADI). The knitted fabric material properties and knitted loop model was imported to ANSYS 12.0 software. Findings – Due to structural changes the tightness and thickness of knitted fabric decreases with increase in loop length The tensile result shows maximum breaking strength at course direction (13.43 kg f/mm2 at 2.7 mm) and maximum extension at wales direction (165.77 kg f/mm2 at 3.3 mm). When the loop length increases, the elongation of fabrics increased and load carrying capacity of fabrics reduced. The Young's modulus, Poisson's ratio and shear modulus of fabrics reduced with increase in loop length. The deformation of fabrics increased with increase in loop length. The increase in loop length gives large amount of structural changes and it is due to slacking or jamming in loops and loosening in dimensions. When comparing the deformation results, the variation within the fabric is higher and structural damage little more when increasing the loop length of the fabric. Originality/value – From ANOVA test, stress and strain distribution was statistically significant among course, wales and bias directions at 95 percent confidence level. The values got from Instron test indicates that testing direction can alter its deformation. In deformation analysis, comparing both experimental and prediction, high amount of structural changes observed in wales direction. The used tetrahedral elements can be used for contact analysis with high accuracy. For non-linear problems, consistent approach was proposed which makes the sense to compare with experimental methods. The proposed model will make possible developments and the preliminary validation tests shows good agreement with experimental data.

Thermo-physiological and sensorial comfort properties of polyester and Coolmax knitted fabrics

2021 ◽  
Vol 64 (2) ◽  
pp. 63-65
Author(s):  
Ganesh S. Kakad ◽  
Ramchandra P. Sawant
Keyword(s):  
Water Vapor ◽  
Transmission Rate ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Water Vapor Transmission Rate ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Water Vapor Transmission ◽  
Fabric Material

This paper deals with thermo-physiological and sensorial comfort properties of knitted fabric samples manufactured from standard polyester (PET) and Coolmax (multi-lobal PET fiber) yarn by The Lycra Company, Wilmington, DE/USA. 18 knitted fabric samples were prepared by using PET and Coolmax. These samples were tested for qmax property related to warm/cool feeling, water-vapor transmission rate and air permeability. The results were analyzed statistically, and it was shown that fabric material used yarn to manufacture knitted samples, i.e. PET and Coolmax, has a significant effect on qmax, water-vapor transmission rate and air permeability of knitted fabric samples used in this study.

Investigation of stretch on air permeability of knitted fabric part I: effect of spinning system

2017 ◽  
Vol 29 (6) ◽  
pp. 754-767 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kumar K.V. ◽  
Sampath V.R. ◽  
Prakash C.
Keyword(s):  
Design Methodology ◽  
Research Work ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Content Type ◽  
The Core ◽  
Ring Yarn ◽  
Spun Yarn ◽  
Ring Spun Yarn ◽  
Made In

Purpose Air permeability of knitted fabrics is normally measured for the samples in their unstretched state. But, this air permeability values indicate the ability of these garments to allow air through them when they are not in use. But, the real-time condition is different and certainly the knitted garments mentioned above will subject to a degree of stretch during their usage. So, the measurement of air permeability under stretch and the fabric properties which would influence the air permeability of weft-knitted fabrics in their stretched state is of paramount importance. The paper aims to discuss these issues. Design/methodology/approach The aim of this research work is to investigate the change in air permeability values under the incremental extension of cotton tubular weft-knitted fabrics produced from the yarns of different spinning systems. Findings From the results, it is evident that the pique fabric samples of compact spun yarn displayed the highest air permeability values during the incremental stretch at all the three relaxation states. It is followed by the pique samples of ring spun yarn. Next to pique samples, the jersey samples made from the compact yarn and ring spun yarn revealed more air permeability, respectively. The core spun pique samples and core spun jersey samples displayed the least air permeability values, respectively. But, the pique and jersey samples made up of ring yarn and compact yarn showed gradual reduction in their air permeability towards the incremental stretch and the core spun pique samples and core spun jersey samples were uniformly seen with gradual increase in their air permeability during the incremental stretch. Originality/value Very limited quantity of research has been carried out in this area. So, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the influence of incremental stretch on air permeability of single knit structures.

Analysis of the performance properties of knitted fabrics containing elastane

2016 ◽  
Vol 28 (4) ◽  
pp. 463-479 ◽  
Author(s):  
Selin Hanife Eryuruk ◽  
Fatma Kalaoglu
Keyword(s):  
Air Permeability ◽  
The Body ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Performance Properties ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Bursting Strength ◽  
Wear Comfort ◽  
Yarn Count ◽  
Apparel Production ◽  
High Level

Purpose – Knitted fabrics containing elastane provide high level of comfort and ease of usage because of the elastic and drape properties over the body. Knitted fabrics respond to every movement of the body and return back to its original shape easily so they are used widely for apparel production. The most important properties required from the elastic knitted garments are wear comfort, fit, breathability and durability. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effect of elastane yarn count and ground yarn count on the performance properties of 12 single jersey knitted fabrics were analysed after dying. Design/methodology/approach – The research design for this study consists an experimental study. In all, 12 fabrics containing half plating and full plating elastane were produced using 30/1-40/1 Ne yarn counts. Bursting strength, stretch recovery, residual extension, air permeability, spirality and drape properties of fabrics were evaluated. Findings – As a result of study it was found a certain effect as the elastane amount and count changed. For all types of knitted fabrics, bursting strength values increased and fabric spirality values decreased as the elastane amount and elastane yarn count increased. Also it was found a significant relationship between elastane amount and count with air permeability, spirality, bursting strength and drape. Originality/value – As a result of the literature review, it was seen that the effects of elastane amount, elastane yarn count and fabric yarn count on the performance properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied broadly.

Thermo-physiological properties of 3D spacer knitted fabrics

2016 ◽  
Vol 28 (3) ◽  
pp. 328-339 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rajesh Mishra ◽  
Arumugam Veerakumar ◽  
Jiri Militky
Keyword(s):  
Thermal Conductivity ◽  
Water Vapour ◽  
Air Permeability ◽  
Water Vapour Permeability ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Vapour Permeability ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Spacer Fabric ◽  
Multifilament Yarns ◽  
Spacer Fabrics

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate effect of material properties in 3D knitted fabrics on thermo-physiological comfort. Design/methodology/approach – In the present study six different spacer fabrics were developed. Among these six fabrics, it was classified into two groups for convenient analysis of results, the first group has been developed using polyester/polypropylene blend with three different proportion and second group with polyester/polypropylene/lycra blend having another three different composition. As a spacer yarn, three different types of 88 dtex polyester monofilament yarn and polyester multifilament yarns (167 dtex and 14.5 tex) were used and 14.5 tex polypropylene and 44 dtex lycra multifilament yarns were also used for the face and back side of the spacer fabrics (Table I). These fabrics were developed in Syntax Pvt Ltd Czech Republic. Findings – The main influence on the water vapour permeability of warp knitted spacer fabrics is the kind of raw material, i.e. fibre wetting and wicking. Also there is no correlation between air permeability and water vapour permeability. It is found that both air permeability and thermal conductivity are closely related to the fabric density. It is also found that the fabric characteristics of spacer fabric show a very significant effect on the air permeability, thermal conductivity and mechanical properties of spacer fabric. Therefore, selection of spacer fabric for winter clothing according to its fabric characteristics. Practical implications – The main objective of the present study is to produce spacer knitted 3D fabrics suitable for defined climatic conditions to be used as clothing or in sports goods. Originality/value – New 3D knitted spacer fabrics can be produced with improved comfort properties.

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