scholarly journals Nutritional Considerations for Bouldering

2017 ◽  
Vol 27 (4) ◽  
pp. 314-324 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward J. Smith ◽  
Ryan Storey ◽  
Mayur K. Ranchordas

Bouldering competitions are held up to International level and governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing. Bouldering has been selected to feature at the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo, however, physiological qualities and nutritional requirements to optimize performance remain inadequately defined due to large gaps in the literature. The primary goals of training include optimizing the capacity of the anaerobic energy systems and developing sport-specific strength, with emphasis on the isometric function of the forearm flexors responsible for grip. Bouldering athletes typically possess a lean physique, similar to the characteristics of sport climbers with reported body fat values of 6–12%. Athletes strive for a low body weight to improve power to weight ratio and limit the load on the extremities. Specialized nutritional support is uncommon and poor nutritional practices such as chronic carbohydrate restriction are prevalent, compromising the health of the athletes. The high intensity nature of bouldering demands a focus on adequate carbohydrate availability. Protein intake and timing should be structured to maximize muscle protein synthesis and recovery, with the literature suggesting 0.25–0.3 g/kg in 3–4 hr intervals. Supplementing with creatine and b-alanine may provide some benefit by augmenting the capacity of the anaerobic systems. Boulderers are encouraged to seek advice from nutrition experts to enhance performance, particularly important when weight loss is the desired outcome. Further research is warranted across all nutritional aspects of bouldering which is summarized in this review.

Geriatrics ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 6 ◽  
Author(s):  
Susan Morris ◽  
James D. Cater ◽  
Mark A. Green ◽  
Alexandra M. Johnstone ◽  
Jeffrey M. Brunstrom ◽  
...  

The current dietary recommendation for protein intake in the UK is 0.75 g/kg/day, however, this population-wide recommendation does not necessarily reflect altered requirements for older adults to maintain muscle protein synthesis, nor does it encompass the potential impact of intake timing. Optimal muscle protein synthesis in older adults requires both higher intake requirements and a distribution of protein intake above a 25 g threshold, three times across the day. This study aimed to describe the protein intake of older adults in a UK region and compare the results to recommendations. The study re-assessed two existing datasets with rich diet information for older adults in the South Yorkshire area. Data were extracted from food diaries of 256 adults aged between 65 and 89 years old (mean ± SD 72.4 ± 5.3 years). Quantity and timing of intake were coded using Nutritics software and compared to recommendations. The relationship between body mass index (BMI), age, and protein intake was explored. Fewer than 50% of the participants met current UK recommendations (0.75 g/kg/day) and fewer than 15% met the ESPEN 1.2 g/kg/day age-specific recommendation. Only one participant met the 25 g/meal recommendation across three meals. These findings suggest that the older adult population is not achieving recommendations to maintain muscle protein synthesis. Nonetheless it identifies several straightforward opportunities for improvement, notably elevation of morning intake.


Nutrients ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 612 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jun Yasuda ◽  
Mai Asako ◽  
Takuma Arimitsu ◽  
Satoshi Fujita

Protein intake of >0.24 g/kg of body weight (BW) at a single meal is necessary to maximize muscle protein synthesis in a young population. However, the association between the protein intake rate for three meals and muscle mass in the young population has not been evaluated. We hypothesized that a protein intake of >0.24 g/kg BW at all three meals is effective for maintaining muscle mass. Therefore, we cross-sectionally examined the association between protein intake at all three meals with muscle mass in 266 healthy young subjects (aged 21.4 ± 2.4 years). Subjects were divided into the AP group, which achieved protein intake >0.24 g/kg BW at all three meals; and the NP group, which did not. We calculated total fat-free mass (FFM) and appendicular fat-free mass (AppFFM) with dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry, and the percentage of total FFM (TotalFFM%) and appendicular FFM (AppFFM%) were calculated as the percentage of BW (%BW). We demonstrated that TotalFFM% (77.0 ± 0.5 vs. 75.2 ± 0.4%, p = 0.008) and AppFFM% (34.7 ± 0.3 vs. 34.1 ± 0.2%, p = 0.058) were higher in the AP than in the NP group. This finding suggests that achieving protein intake of >0.24 g/kg BW at all three meals is important for muscle mass maintenance in young populations.


2019 ◽  
Vol 38 ◽  
pp. S176
Author(s):  
E. Poggiogalle ◽  
F. Rossignon ◽  
A. Carayon ◽  
J. Salles ◽  
C. Giraudet ◽  
...  

2003 ◽  
Vol 35 (Supplement 1) ◽  
pp. S101
Author(s):  
M A. Pikosky ◽  
D R. Bolster ◽  
P C. Gaine ◽  
W F. Martin ◽  
C M. Maresh ◽  
...  

2020 ◽  
pp. 1-11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eunice T. Olaniyan ◽  
Fiona O’Halloran ◽  
Aoife L. McCarthy

Abstract Amino acid bioavailability is critical for muscle protein synthesis (MPS) and preservation of skeletal muscle mass (SMM). Ageing is associated with reduced responsiveness of MPS to essential amino acids (EAA). Further, the older adult population experiences anabolic resistance, leading to increased frailty, functional decline and depleted muscle mass preservation, which facilitates the need for increased protein intake to increase their SMM. This review focuses on the role of proteins in muscle mass preservation and examines the contribution of EAA and protein intake patterns to MPS. Leucine is the most widely studied amino acid for its role as a potent stimulator of MPS, though due to inadequate data little is yet known about the role of other EAA. Reaching a conclusion on the best pattern of protein intake has proven difficult due to conflicting studies. A mixture of animal and plant proteins can contribute to increased MPS and potentially attenuate muscle wasting conditions; however, there is limited research on the biological impact of protein blends in older adults. While there is some evidence to suggest that liquid protein foods with higher than the RDA of protein may be the best strategy for achieving high MPS rates in older adults, clinical trials are warranted to confirm an association between food form and SMM preservation. Further research is warranted before adequate recommendations and strategies for optimising SMM in the elderly population can be proposed.


Nutrients ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 1235 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sara Y. Oikawa ◽  
Ravninder Bahniwal ◽  
Tanya M. Holloway ◽  
Changhyun Lim ◽  
Jonathan C. McLeod ◽  
...  

Skeletal muscle myofibrillar protein synthesis (MPS) increases in response to protein feeding and to resistance exercise (RE), where each stimuli acts synergistically when combined. The efficacy of plant proteins such as potato protein (PP) isolate to stimulate MPS is unknown. We aimed to determine the effects of PP ingestion on daily MPS with and without RE in healthy women. In a single blind, parallel-group design, 24 young women (21 ± 3 years, n = 12/group) consumed a weight-maintaining baseline diet containing 0.8 g/kg/d of protein before being randomized to consume either 25 g of PP twice daily (1.6 g/kg/d total protein) or a control diet (CON) (0.8 g/kg/d total protein) for 2 wks. Unilateral RE (~30% of maximal strength to failure) was performed thrice weekly with the opposite limb serving as a non-exercised control (Rest). MPS was measured by deuterated water ingestion at baseline, following supplementation (Rest), and following supplementation + RE (Exercise). Ingestion of PP stimulated MPS by 0.14 ± 0.09 %/d at Rest, and by 0.32 ± 0.14 %/d in the Exercise limb. MPS was significantly elevated by 0.20 ± 0.11 %/d in the Exercise limb in CON (p = 0.008). Consuming PP to increase protein intake to levels twice the recommended dietary allowance for protein augmented rates of MPS. Performance of RE stimulated MPS regardless of protein intake. PP is a high-quality, plant-based protein supplement that augments MPS at rest and following RE in healthy young women.


Author(s):  
Colleen S. Deane ◽  
Isabel A. Ely ◽  
Daniel J. Wilkinson ◽  
Kenneth Smith ◽  
Bethan E. Phillips ◽  
...  

Dietary protein is a pre-requisite for the maintenance of skeletal muscle mass; stimulating increases in muscle protein synthesis (MPS), via essential amino acids (EAA), and attenuating muscle protein breakdown, via insulin. Muscles are receptive to the anabolic effects of dietary protein, and in particular the EAA leucine, for only a short period (i.e. about 2–3 h) in the rested state. Thereafter, MPS exhibits tachyphylaxis despite continued EAA availability and sustained mechanistic target of rapamycin complex 1 signalling. Other notable characteristics of this ‘muscle full’ phenomenon include: (i) it cannot be overcome by proximal intake of additional nutrient signals/substrates regulating MPS; meaning a refractory period exists before a next stimulation is possible, (ii) it is refractory to pharmacological/nutraceutical enhancement of muscle blood flow and thus is not induced by muscle hypo-perfusion, (iii) it manifests independently of whether protein intake occurs in a bolus or intermittent feeding pattern, and (iv) it does not appear to be dependent on protein dose per se. Instead, the main factor associated with altering muscle full is physical activity. For instance, when coupled to protein intake, resistance exercise delays the muscle full set-point to permit additional use of available EAA for MPS to promote muscle remodelling/growth. In contrast, ageing is associated with blunted MPS responses to protein/exercise (anabolic resistance), while physical inactivity (e.g. immobilisation) induces a premature muscle full, promoting muscle atrophy. It is crucial that in catabolic scenarios, anabolic strategies are sought to mitigate muscle decline. This review highlights regulatory protein turnover interactions by dietary protein, exercise, ageing and physical inactivity.


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