scholarly journals The Wave Climate of the Southern Ocean

2020 ◽  
Vol 50 (5) ◽  
pp. 1417-1433
Author(s):  
Ian R. Young ◽  
Emmanuel Fontaine ◽  
Qingxiang Liu ◽  
Alexander V. Babanin

AbstractThe wave climate of the Southern Ocean is investigated using a combined dataset from 33 years of altimeter data, in situ buoy measurements at five locations, and numerical wave model hindcasts. The analysis defines the seasonal variation in wind speed and significant wave height, as well as wind speed and significant wave height for a 1-in-100-year return period. The buoy data include an individual wave with a trough to crest height of 26.4 m and suggest that waves in excess of 30 m would occur in the region. The extremely long fetches, persistent westerly winds, and procession of low pressure systems that traverse the region generate wave spectra that are unique. These spectra are unimodal but with peak frequencies that propagate much faster than the local wind. This situation results in a unique energy balance in which waves at the spectra peak grow as a result of nonlinear transfer without any input from the local wind.

Author(s):  
Adil Rasheed ◽  
Jakob Kristoffer Süld ◽  
Mandar Tabib

Accurate prediction of near surface wind and wave height are important for many offshore activities like fishing, boating, surfing, installation and maintenance of marine structures. The current work investigates the use of different methodologies to make accurate predictions of significant wave height and local wind. The methodology consists of coupling an atmospheric code HARMONIE and a wave model WAM. Two different kinds of coupling methodologies: unidirectional and bidirectional coupling are tested. While in Unidirectional coupling only the effects of atmosphere on ocean surface are taken into account, in bidirectional coupling the effects of ocean surface on the atmosphere are also accounted for. The predicted values of wave height and local wind at 10m above the ocean surface using both the methodologies are compared against observation data. The results show that during windy conditions, a bidirectional coupling methodology has better prediction capability.


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (12) ◽  
pp. 1039
Author(s):  
Ben Timmermans ◽  
Andrew G. P. Shaw ◽  
Christine Gommenginger

Measurements of significant wave height from satellite altimeter missions are finding increasing application in investigations of wave climate, sea state variability and trends, in particular as the means to mitigate the general sparsity of in situ measurements. However, many questions remain over the suitability of altimeter data for the representation of extreme sea states and applications in the coastal zone. In this paper, the limitations of altimeter data to estimate coastal Hs extremes (<10 km from shore) are investigated using the European Space Agency Sea State Climate Change Initiative L2P altimeter data v1.1 product recently released. This Sea State CCI product provides near complete global coverage and a continuous record of 28 years. It is used here together with in situ data from moored wave buoys at six sites around the coast of the United States. The limitations of estimating extreme values based on satellite data are quantified and linked to several factors including the impact of data corruption nearshore, the influence of coastline morphology and local wave climate dynamics, and the spatio-temporal sampling achieved by altimeters. The factors combine to lead to considerable underestimation of estimated Hs 10-yr return levels. Sensitivity to these factors is evaluated at specific sites, leading to recommendations about the use of satellite data to estimate extremes and their temporal evolution in coastal environments.


1995 ◽  
Vol 117 (4) ◽  
pp. 294-297 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. C. Teixeira ◽  
M. P. Abreu ◽  
C. Guedes Soares

Two wind models were developed and their results were compared with data gathered during the Wangara experiment, so as to characterize their uncertainty. One of the models was adopted to generate the wind fields used as input to a second generation wave model. The relative error in the wind speed was considered in order to assess the uncertainties of the predictions or the significant wave height. Different time steps for the wind input were also used to determine their effect on the predicted significant wave height.


2013 ◽  
Vol 31 (3) ◽  
pp. 483 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guilherme Colaço Melo Dos Passos ◽  
Nelson Violante Carvalho ◽  
Uggo Ferreira Pinho ◽  
Alexandre Pereira Cabral ◽  
Frederico F. Ostritz

ABSTRACT. The estimates of significant wave height (SWH) and wind speed at 10 meter height (u10) from the Jason-2 and ENVISAT satellites, over the intertropical region, are analysed. Some authors have tested the dependency of satellite radar wind/wave measurements on local environmental conditions, particularly on wave age, with no conclusive results. Our data show that Jason-2 overestimates high values of SWH and underestimates low values, while ENVISAT exhibits the opposite behaviour. The correlation coefficient between buoy measurements and altimeter data is around 0.95, with bias and root mean square error (RMSE) of, 3 and 15 cm respectively. On the other hand, Jason-2 underestimates u10 throughout the whole measured range, while ENVISAT overestimates throughout the whole range for speeds over 3 m/s. The correlation coefficient is around 0.90, with bias and RMSE around 0.20 cm and 1.5 m/s, respectively. The altimeter estimates in the intertropical region are similar to those obtained with global coverage, hence the sensitivity to sea state to extract wind speed and wave height is not so obvious in our data set. Therefore, the results indicate that the algorithms employed have a fair enough performance in the intertropical region.Keywords: wind waves, wind speed, altimeter, Jason-2, ENVISAT. RESUMO. As estimativas de altura significativa de onda (SWH) e de intensidade do vento a 10 metros de altura (u10) dos altímetros dos satélites Jason-2 e ENVISAT, obtidas na região intertropical, são analisadas. Alguns trabalhos apontam para uma possível dependência da esbeltez das ondas, e portanto do estado de mar, para extração de u10 e SWH, o que tornaria os algoritmos empregados dependentes da localidade. Os resultados aqui obtidos mostram que o Jason-2 em geral superestima altos valores de SWH e subestima baixos valores, enquanto que para o ENVISAT a tendência encontrada é a inversa. Foram obtidos coeficientes de correlação entre a SWH de boias e dos altímetros em torno de 0,95, e bias e erro médio quadrático (RMSE) de aproximadamente 3 e 15 cm, respectivamente. Em relação à u10, o Jason-2 subestima ligeiramente os valores, independente da faixa de intensidade do vento, enquanto que o ENVISAT os superestimam em quase todas as faixas de intensidade, exceto para ventos menores que 3 c/s. Os coeficientes de correlação se encontram em torno de 0,90, com bias e erro médio quadrático de, respectivamente, aproximadamente 0,20 cm e 1,5 c/s. Os resultados indicam que o desempenho na região intertropical é similar aos resultados obtidos empregando medições globais, que são altamente concentradas em altas latitudes no Hemisfério Norte. O efeito da condição do estado de mar para extração de SWH e u10, caso seja importante, não aparenta ser considerável no conjunto de dados aqui empregado. Portanto, os resultados apontam para um desempenho bastante aceitável de tais algoritmos quando empregados na região intertropical.Palavras-chave: altura significativa de ondas, intensidade do vento, altimetria, Jason-2, ENVISAT.


2016 ◽  
Vol 31 (6) ◽  
pp. 2035-2045 ◽  
Author(s):  
Charles R. Sampson ◽  
James A. Hansen ◽  
Paul A. Wittmann ◽  
John A. Knaff ◽  
Andrea Schumacher

Abstract Development of a 12-ft-seas significant wave height ensemble consistent with the official tropical cyclone intensity, track, and wind structure forecasts and their errors from the operational U.S. tropical cyclone forecast centers is described. To generate the significant wave height ensemble, a Monte Carlo wind speed probability algorithm that produces forecast ensemble members is used. These forecast ensemble members, each created from the official forecast and randomly sampled errors from historical official forecast errors, are then created immediately after the official forecast is completed. Of 1000 forecast ensemble members produced by the wind speed algorithm, 128 of them are selected and processed to produce wind input for an ocean surface wave model. The wave model is then run once per realization to produce 128 possible forecasts of significant wave height. Probabilities of significant wave height at critical thresholds can then be computed from the ocean surface wave model–generated significant wave heights. Evaluations of the ensemble are provided in terms of maximum significant wave height and radius of 12-ft significant wave height—two parameters of interest to both U.S. Navy meteorologists and U.S. Navy operators. Ensemble mean errors and biases of maximum significant wave height and radius of 12-ft significant wave height are found to be similar to those of a deterministic version of the same algorithm. Ensemble spreads capture most verifying maximum and radii of 12-ft significant wave heights.


2005 ◽  
Vol 18 (7) ◽  
pp. 1032-1048 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Caires ◽  
A. Sterl

Abstract In this article global estimates of 100-yr return values of wind speed and significant wave height are presented. These estimates are based on the ECMWF 40-yr Re-Analysis (ERA-40) data and are linearly corrected using estimates based on buoy data. This correction is supported by global Topographic Ocean Experiment (TOPEX) altimeter data estimates. The calculation of return values is based on the peaks-over-threshold method. The large amount of data used in this study provides evidence that the distributions of significant wave height and wind speed data belong to the domain of attraction of the exponential. Further, the effect of the space and time variability of significant wave height and wind speed on the prediction of their extreme values is assessed. This is done by performing detailed global extreme value analyses using different decadal subperiods of the 45-yr-long ERA-40 dataset.


Author(s):  
Erin E. Thomas ◽  
Malte Müller ◽  
Patrik Bohlinger ◽  
Yurii Batrak ◽  
Nicholas Szapiro

AbstractAccurately simulating the interactions between the components of a coupled Earth modelling system (atmosphere, sea-ice, and wave) on a kilometer-scale resolution is a new challenge in operational numerical weather prediction. It is difficult due to the complexity of interactive mechanisms, the limited accuracy of model components and scarcity of observations available for assessing relevant coupled processes. This study presents a newly developed convective-scale atmosphere-wave coupled forecasting system for the European Arctic. The HARMONIE-AROME configuration of the ALADIN-HIRLAM numerical weather prediction system is coupled to the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III using the OASIS3 model coupling toolkit. We analyze the impact of representing the kilometer-scale atmosphere-wave interactions through coupled and uncoupled forecasts on a model domain with 2.5 km spatial resolution. In order to assess the coupled model’s accuracy and uncertainties we compare 48-hour model forecasts against satellite observational products such as Advanced Scatterometer 10 m wind speed, and altimeter based significant wave height. The fully coupled atmosphere-wave model results closely match both satellite-based wind speed and significant wave height observations as well as surface pressure and wind speed measurements from selected coastal station observation sites. Furthermore, the coupled model contains smaller standard deviation of errors in both 10m wind speed and significant wave height parameters when compared to the uncoupled model forecasts. Atmosphere and wave coupling reduces the short term forecast error variability of 10 m wind speed and significant wave height with the greatest benefit occurring for high wind and wave conditions.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ben Timmermans ◽  
Andrew Shaw ◽  
Chrsitine Gommenginger

&lt;p&gt;Measurements of significant wave height from satellite altimeter missions are finding increasing application in investigations of wave climate, sea state variability and trends, in particular as the means to mitigate the general sparsity of in situ measurements. However, many questions remain over the suitability of altimeter data for the representation of extreme sea states and in particular applications that examine extremes in the coastal zone. In this paper, the limitations of altimeter data to estimate coastal Hs extremes (&lt;10 km from shore) are investigated using the European Space Agency Sea State Climate Change Initiative (CCI) L2P altimeter data v1.1 product recently released. This Sea State CCI product provides near complete global coverage and a continuous record of 28 years. It is used here together with in situ data from moored wave buoys at a number of sites around the coast of the United States. The limitations of estimating extreme values based on satellite data are quantified and linked to several factors including the impact of data corruption nearshore, the influence of coastline morphology and local wave climate dynamics and the spatio-temporal sampling achieved by altimeters. The factors combine to lead to considerable underestimation of estimated Hs 10-yr return levels. Sensitivity to these factors is evaluated at specific sites, leading to recommendations about the use of satellite data to estimate extremes and their temporal evolution in coastal environments.&lt;/p&gt;


2015 ◽  
Vol 28 (2) ◽  
pp. 819-837 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ole Johan Aarnes ◽  
Saleh Abdalla ◽  
Jean-Raymond Bidlot ◽  
Øyvind Breivik

Abstract Trends in marine wind speed and significant wave height are investigated using the global reanalysis ERA-Interim over the period 1979–2012, based on monthly-mean and monthly-maximum data. Besides the traditional reanalysis, the authors include trends obtained at different forecast range, available up to 10 days ahead. Any model biases that are corrected differently over time are likely to introduce spurious trends of variable magnitude. However, at increased forecast range the model tends to relax, being less affected by assimilation. Still, there is a trade-off between removing the impact of data assimilation at longer forecast range and getting a lower level of uncertainty in the predictions at shorter forecast range. Because of the sheer amount of assimilations made in ERA-Interim, directly and indirectly affecting the data, it is difficult, if not impossible, to distinguish effects imposed by all updates. Here, special emphasis is put on the introduction of wave altimeter data in August 1991, the only type of data directly affecting the wave field. From this, it is shown that areas of higher model bias introduce quite different trends depending on forecast range, most apparent in the North Atlantic and eastern tropical Pacific. Results are compared with 23 in situ measurements, Envisat altimeter winds, and two stand-alone ECMWF operational wave model (EC-WAM) runs with and without wave altimeter assimilation. Here, the 48-h forecast is suggested to be a better candidate for trend estimates of wave height, mainly due to the step change imposed by altimeter observations. Even though wind speed seems less affected by undesirable step changes, the authors believe that the 24–48-h forecast more effectively filters out any unwanted effects.


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