Chapter Two Fabrics and Techniques

Author(s):  
Bracha Yaniv
Keyword(s):  

This chapter is devoted to the linen and silk fabrics used in the production of medieval ceremonial textiles, and the techniques employed to create the embroidered and woven patterns that embellished them. As we have already seen, the elegance of ceremonial textiles in antiquity is revealed in the use in early sources of the term ...

2016 ◽  
Vol 13 (2) ◽  
pp. 67
Author(s):  
Engku Liyana Zafirah Engku Mohd Suhaimi ◽  
Jamil Salleh ◽  
Suzaini Abd Ghani ◽  
Mohamad Faizul Yahya ◽  
Mohd Rozi Ahmad

An investigation on the properties of Tenun Pahang fabric performances using alternative yarns was conducted. The studies were made in order to evaluate whether the Tenun Pahang fabric could be produced economically and at the same time maintain the fabric quality. Traditional Tenun Pahang fabric uses silk for both warp and weft. For this project, two alternative yarns were used which were bamboo and modal, which were a little lower in cost compared to silk. These yarns were woven with two variations, one with the yarns as weft only while maintaining the silk warp and the other with both warp and weft using the alternative yarns. Four (4) physical testings and three (3) mechanical testings conducted on the fabric samples. The fabric samples were evaluated including weight, thickness, thread density, crease recovery angle, stiffness and drapability. The results show that modal/silk and bamboo silk fabrics are comparable in terms of stiffness and drapability, hence they have the potential to replace 100% silk Tenun Pahang.


RSC Advances ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (14) ◽  
pp. 8290-8305
Author(s):  
Md Shipan Mia ◽  
Ping Yao ◽  
Xiaowei Zhu ◽  
Xue Lei ◽  
Tieling Xing ◽  
...  

In this study, waste silk fabrics were modified with tea-polyphenols then loaded with Fe2+ for degradation of dyes.


Author(s):  
Cristina Portalés ◽  
Manolo Pérez ◽  
Pablo Casanova-Salas ◽  
Jesús Gimeno

Abstract3D modelling of man-made objects is widely used in the cultural heritage sector, among others. It is relevant for its documentation, dissemination and preservation. Related to historical fabrics, weaves and weaving techniques are still mostly represented in forms of 2D graphics and textual descriptions. However, complex geometries are difficult to represent in such forms, hindering the way this legacy is transmitted to new generations. In this paper, we present the design and implementation of SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom, an interactive tool aimed to document, preserve and represent in interactive 3D forms historical weaves and weaving techniques of silk fabrics, dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries. To that end, our tool only requires an image of a historical fabric. Departing from this image, the tool automatically subtracts the design, and allows the user to apply different weaves and weaving techniques. In its current version, the tool embeds five traditional weaving techniques, 39 weaves and six types of yarns, which have been defined thanks to close collaboration of experts in computer graphics, art history and historical fabrics. Additionally, users can change the color of yarns and produce different 3D representations for a given fabric, which are interactive in real time. In this paper, we bring the details of the design and implementation of this tool, focusing on the input data, the strategy to process images, the 3D modelling of yarns, the definition of weaves and weaving techniques and the graphical user interface. In the results section, we show some examples of image analysis in order to subtract the design of historical fabrics, and then we provide 3D representations for all the considered weaving techniques, combining different types of yarns.


Materials ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 14 (5) ◽  
pp. 1160
Author(s):  
F. Philipp Seib

Silk continues to amaze. This review unravels the most recent progress in silk science, spanning from fundamental insights to medical silks. Key advances in silk flow are examined, with specific reference to the role of metal ions in switching silk from a storage to a spinning state. Orthogonal thermoplastic silk molding is described, as is the transfer of silk flow principles for the triggering of flow-induced crystallization in other non-silk polymers. Other exciting new developments include silk-inspired liquid–liquid phase separation for non-canonical fiber formation and the creation of “silk organelles” in live cells. This review closes by examining the role of silk fabrics in fashioning facemasks in response to the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic.


1997 ◽  
Vol 42 (1) ◽  
pp. 27-37 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mary A. Becker ◽  
Yoshiko Magoshi ◽  
Tetsuya Sakai ◽  
Noreen C. Tuross

2015 ◽  
Vol 1134 ◽  
pp. 165-170
Author(s):  
Nor Atiqah Mohamed ◽  
Mohd Rozi Ahmad ◽  
Muhammad Ismail Abd Kadir ◽  
Asmida Ismail ◽  
Wan Yunus Wan Ahmad

Two lichens species (ParmotremapraesorediosumandHeterodermialeucomelos)were assessed for dye production using boiling water method (BWM) and ammonia fermentation method (AFM). The dyes were applied on silk fabric. Three types of mordant were used i.e. alum, iron and vinegar through meta-chrome (simultaneous) method of natural dyeing. The K/S values, colour coordinates values and colour differences (ΔE) of the dyed samples were measured. Dyeing fastness properties of the dyed silk fabrics were assessed for washing, rubbing and light. TheP.praesorediosumextracts yielded beige to dull brown shades using BWM and pinkish-purple using AFM, whereas theH.leucomelosextracts produced yellowish-brown shades for both BWM and AFM on the silk substrate. Modanting seemed to be effective in increasing the K/S values of all mordanted fabrics except in the case of silk fabric dyed withP.praesorediosumextracted from AFM. Fastness ratings to washing and rubbing were all very good (5-4) for bothP.praesorediosumandH.leucomelosdyed silk fabrics. The fabrics dyed withP.praesorediosumandH.leucomelosextracts produced strong and deep colours as their ΔE values were higher and increased obviously of all mordanted fabrics. It can be concluded thatP.praesorediosumandH.leucomelosextracted from BWM and AFM methods can be used as an alternative dye source.


2007 ◽  
Vol 8 (4) ◽  
pp. 1200-1208 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Taddei ◽  
C. Arosio ◽  
P. Monti ◽  
M. Tsukada ◽  
T. Arai ◽  
...  

Author(s):  
IBRAHIM ABDULLAHI UMAR

Kepentingan meningkat untuk pewarna semulajadi bermula beberapa tahun lalu tetapi di pihak pengguna, manfaat tersebut hanya mula dirasai. Pewarna asli dianggap sebagai pewarna mampan dan mesra alam; mereka boleh menghasilkan warna yang berbeza warna dan mempunyai ketahanan luntur yang lebih rendah daripada pewarna sintetik. Oleh itu, kertas kerja ini dikaji pada sifat kubu daripada pewarna yang diekstrak daripada kacang belalang dan buah-buahan asam buah.Warna-warna ini dipetik menggunakan kaedah berair dan pelarut dan telah digunakan di dataran terluntur ditenun kapas dan sutera kain.Yang digunakan bagi pedas meningkatkan penembusan warna (pewarna) dan sampel dicelup telah tertakluk kepada ujian kubu (membasuh, menggosok, peluh & ujian cahaya). Perbandingan analisis kepada tahap pewarnaan telah direkodkan dan ujian kubu baik daripada analisis membuktikan bahawa; warna boleh digunakan sebagai pewarna pada kapas dan sutera kain.   An interest for natural dyes increased several years ago but on the part of the consumers, the benefits are just beginning to be felt. Natural dyes are considered as sustainable and ecofriendly dyes; they can produce different shades of colours and have lower colour fastness than synthetic dyes. Therefore, this paper researched on the fastness properties of colorant extracted from locust beans and tamarind fruits pods. The colours were extracted using aqueous and solvent methods and were applied on bleached plain weaved cotton and silk fabrics. The use of mordant increased the penetration of the colours (dyes) and the dyed samples were subjected to fastness test (washing, rubbing, perspiration & light test). Comparative analyses on the degree of staining were recorded and good fastness test from the analysis proved that; the colours can be used as dyes on cotton and silk fabrics.


2021 ◽  
Vol 18 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fatma A. Mohamed ◽  
Shaban Elkhabiry ◽  
Ismail A. Ismail ◽  
Attia O. Attia

: The dyes are synthesized by 3-Amino-2-thioxo-4thiazolidinone (N-Amino rhodanine) with glutaraldehyde or Terephthalaldehyde by 2:1 mole to form a and b then coupled with diazonium salts p-Amino benzenesulfonic acid and 4-Amino 3,4 disulfoazobenzeneazobenzene by 2:1 to form new different bis monoazo a1, b1 and diazo a2 and b2 acid dyes. Therefore, the synthesized dyes were applied to both silk and wool fabric materials. We also evaluated the antimicrobial activity for these dyed fabrics against two model gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria. Further, the chemical composition of these dyes is emphasized by elemental analysis Aims: This paper aims to synthesize, apply dye and antimicrobial to four new acid dyes based on derivatives of N-Amino rodanine as a chromophoric group. These dyes are used in dyeing silk and wool with the good lightfastness and are also excellent for washing, rubbing, and sweating fastness. Also, we measure antimicrobial activity for silk and wool fabrics toward Gram-negative, Gram-positive. Background: The search for a synthesis of new acid dyes has antimicrobial for gram-negative and gram-positive. These dyes are mainly used on silk and wool fabrics which have excellent for light fastness, washing, rubbing, and sweating fastness. Objective: The present studies were aimed at synthesis, characterization and antimicrobial toward gram- negative and gram-positive. Methods: The infra-red spectrum was recorded using an Infra-red spectrometer, Perkin Elmer/1650 FT-IR. The 1H-NMR spectra were recorded using a Varian 400MHz spectrometer. The absorbance of the dyes was measured in the ultraviolet-visible region between 300 and 700 nm by a UNICAM UV spectrophotometer. The dye uptake by wool and silk fabrics was measured using a Shimadzu UV-2401PC (UV/V is spectrophotometer at λmax) before and after dyeing. The produced dyes were found to have good antimicrobial activity against a variety of bacteria. Results and Discussion: The compounds a1, b1, a2 &b2 shows good antimicrobial activity toward gram-negative (E. coli), gram-positive (S. aurous). The data showed that exhaustion and the fastness properties of silk and wool dyed fabrics were both very high. Conclusion: This work prepares newly synthesized acid dyes based on 3-Amino-2-thioxo-4thiazolidinone derivatives and uses them for dyeing wool and silk fabrics. Both synthetic dyes have good light fastness and fastness properties. Also, all dyes have a good antimicrobial effect.


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