The aim of the article is to discuss how elements of food
narratives meals and kitchen tools used for cooking are used in order to
consolidate and shape the Croatian cultural memory, especially in the context
of its Mediterranean heritage.For this reason, the texts by Veljko Barbieri,
collected in the four volumes under the common and significant title Kuharski kanconijer. Gurmanska sjećanja Mediterana, are analysed. His circum-culinary
narratives are a combination of encyclopaedic knowledge, references to
historical and literary sources, personal memories and literary fiction. They can
be easily inscribed in the Croatian (collective and individual) identity discourse
since they are able to strengthen the collective (either national and
supranational, or geo-regional) identity, and to construct the cultural memory.
They also show Croatia's affiliation to the Western world along with its
cultural-civilization rooting in antiquity, the Mediterranean region and
Christianity, thus forming a part of the founding memory that develops a
narrative about the very beginnings of Croatian presence on this land. The gastronomic
narratives serve to create the cultural memory and this version of history
which is to stabilize the social identity described by Pierre Nora and Andreas
Huyssen. Through his stories, Barbieri shapes memory based on the
representation of the past. In the analysed narratives, the memory carriers are
dishes and plates which find reference to the oldest history of Croatia
rendered by myths and other narratives. Associated with dishes, the pots enable
the narrator to recall the past and the identity coded in individual dishes.
They also participate in the processes of repeating, storage and remembering
which generate a symbiotic relationship between man and thing. The memory
carriers that is, food and plates depicted in Barbieri's culinary narratives do
not convey their content in a neutral way, but construct their marked images.