scholarly journals EVALUATION OF A PARAMETRIC-TYPE WAVE TRANSFORMATION MODEL AGAINST FIELD AND LABORATORY DATA

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 51
Author(s):  
Alireza Jafari ◽  
Nick Cartwright
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Break Point ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Additional Energy ◽  
Propagation Models ◽  
Dissipation Model ◽  
Wave Properties

Predicting wave properties via parametric wave propagation models are broadly used in many coastal engineering applications. Numerous researchers have refined these types of models to increase their accuracy including; Battjes and Janssen (1978), Thornton and Guza (1983), Baldock et al. (1998), and Alsina and Baldock (2007). Alsina and Baldock (2007), proposed an improved parametric wave propagation models for a non-saturated surfzone which returns relatively more accuracy in comparison to others. In this paper, the Alsina and Baldock (2007) model along with Baldock et al. (1998) and Thornton and Guza (1983), are applied to data collected in South-East Queensland under stormy and calm conditions as well as laboratory data. Some of the comparisons indicate the need to incorporate some additional energy loss at the break point to account for plunging type breakers where the existing bore dissipation model is insufficient.

The coastal refraction-diffraction wave propagation model

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Diffraction Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Propagation Model

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.

A multi-layer model for nonlinear internal wave propagation in shallow water

2012 ◽  
Vol 695 ◽  
pp. 341-365 ◽  
Author(s):  
Philip L.-F. Liu ◽  
Xiaoming Wang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Internal Wave ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Internal Waves ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Constant Density ◽  
Layer Model ◽  
Fluid System ◽  
Nonlinear Internal Wave

AbstractIn this paper, a multi-layer model is developed for the purpose of studying nonlinear internal wave propagation in shallow water. The methodology employed in constructing the multi-layer model is similar to that used in deriving Boussinesq-type equations for surface gravity waves. It can also be viewed as an extension of the two-layer model developed by Choi & Camassa. The multi-layer model approximates the continuous density stratification by an $N$-layer fluid system in which a constant density is assumed in each layer. This allows the model to investigate higher-mode internal waves. Furthermore, the model is capable of simulating large-amplitude internal waves up to the breaking point. However, the model is limited by the assumption that the total water depth is shallow in comparison with the wavelength of interest. Furthermore, the vertical vorticity must vanish, while the horizontal vorticity components are weak. Numerical examples for strongly nonlinear waves are compared with laboratory data and other numerical studies in a two-layer fluid system. Good agreement is observed. The generation and propagation of mode-1 and mode-2 internal waves and their interactions with bottom topography are also investigated.

scholarly journals VERIFICATION OF NUMERICAL WAVE PROPAGATION MODELS IN TIDAL INLETS

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 30 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.A. Vogel ◽  
A.C. Radder ◽  
J.H. De Reus
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
River Estuary ◽  
Regular Grid ◽  
Local Wind ◽  
Tidal Inlets ◽  
Propagation Models ◽  
Dutch Coast ◽  
Model Based ◽  
Numerical Wave

The performance of two numerical wave propagation models has been investigated by comparison with field data. The first model is a refractiondiffraction model based on the parabolic equation method. The second is a refraction model based on the wave action equation, using a regular grid. Two field situations, viz. a tidal inlet and a river estuary along the Dutch coast, were used to determine the influence of the local wind on waves behind an island and a breaker zone. It may be concluded from the results of the computations and measurements that a much better agreement is obtained when wave growth due to wind is properly accounted for in the numerical models. In complicated coastal areas the models perform well for both engineering and research purposes.

scholarly journals Extended Elliptic Mild Slope Equation Incorporating the Nonlinear Shoaling Effect

2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (s1) ◽  
pp. 44-51 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qian-lu Xiao ◽  
Chun-hui Li ◽  
Xiao-yan Fu ◽  
Mei-ju Wang
Keyword(s):  
Dispersion Relation ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Dispersion ◽  
Structure Design ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Wave Shoaling

Abstract The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equation, an efficient wave numerical model is presented in this paper for predicting wave deformation across the complex topography and the surf zone, incorporating the nonlinear wave dispersion relation, the nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient and other energy dissipation factors. Especially, the phenomenon of wave recovery and second breaking could be shown by the present model. The classical Berkhoff single elliptic topography wave tests, the sinusoidal varying topography experiment, and complex composite slopes wave flume experiments are applied to verify the accuracy of the calculation of wave heights. Compared with experimental data, good agreements are found upon single elliptical topography and one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope and step-type profiles. The results indicate that the newly-developed nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient improves the calculated accuracy of wave transformation in the surf zone efficiently, and the wave breaking is the key factor affecting the wave characteristics and need to be considered in the nearshore wave simulations.

scholarly journals Nearshore Wave Transformation Domains from Video Imagery

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (6) ◽  
pp. 186 ◽  
Author(s):  
Umberto Andriolo
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Intensity Variation ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Physical Processes ◽  
Pixel Intensity ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Different Types ◽  
Propagation Properties ◽  
Wave Properties

Within the nearshore area, three wave transformation domains can be distinguished based on the wave properties: shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The identification of these distinct areas is relevant for understanding nearshore wave propagation properties and physical processes, as these zones can be related, for instance, to different types of sediment transport. This work presents a technique to automatically retrieve the nearshore wave transformation domains from images taken by coastal video monitoring stations. The technique exploits the pixel intensity variation of image acquisitions, and relates the pixel properties to the distinct wave characteristics. This allows the automated description of spatial and temporal extent of shoaling, surf, and swash zones. The methodology was proven to be robust, and capable of spotting the three distinct zones within the nearshore, both cross-shore and along-shore dimensions. The method can support a wide range of coastal studies, such as nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport. It can also allow a faster and improved application of existing video-based techniques for wave breaking height and depth-inversion, among others.

scholarly journals Estimation of Irregular Wave Runup on Intermediate and Reflective Beaches Using a Phase-Resolving Numerical Model

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (12) ◽  
pp. 993
Author(s):  
Jonas Pinault ◽  
Denis Morichon ◽  
Volker Roeber
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Best Practices ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Promising Alternative

Accurate wave runup estimations are of great interest for coastal risk assessment and engineering design. Phase-resolving depth-integrated numerical models offer a promising alternative to commonly used empirical formulae at relatively low computational cost. Several operational models are currently freely available and have been extensively used in recent years for the computation of nearshore wave transformations and runup. However, recommendations for best practices on how to correctly utilize these models in computations of runup processes are still sparse. In this work, the Boussinesq-type model BOSZ is applied to calculate runup from irregular waves on intermediate and reflective beaches. The results are compared to an extensive laboratory data set of LiDAR measurements from wave transformation and shoreline elevation oscillations. The physical processes within the surf and swash zones such as the transfer from gravity to infragravity energy and dissipation are accurately accounted for. In addition, time series of the shoreline oscillations are well captured by the model. Comparisons of statistical values such as R2% show relative errors of less than 6%. The sensitivity of the results to various model parameters is investigated to allow for recommendations of best practices for modeling runup with phase-resolving depth-integrated models. While the breaking index is not found to be a key parameter for the examined cases, the grid size and the threshold depth, at which the runup is computed, are found to have significant influence on the results. The use of a time series, which includes both amplitude and phase information, is required for an accurate modeling of swash processes, as shown by computations with different sets of random waves, displaying a high variability and decreasing the agreement between the experiment and the model results substantially. The infragravity swash SIG is found to be sensitive to the initial phase distribution, likely because it is related to the short wave envelope.

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