Plants from Urban Parks as Valuable Cosmetic Ingredients: Green Extraction, Chemical Composition and Activity

The research on the possibilities of using biowaste from urban green areas is scarce. In this work, four plants, widely distributed in urban parks in Central Europe (Lotus corniculatus, Medicago lupulina, Knautia arvensis and Plantago major) were extracted using eco-friendly solvents based either on aqueous cyclodextrin solutions (hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin or γ-cyclodextrin) or natural deep eutectic solvents based on glycerol, betaine and glucose. Metal content was determined using total reflection X-ray fluorescence (TXRF). The content of selected metabolites was determined using UV-VIS spectrophotometric methods and HPLC. Skin-related bioactivity was assessed using tyrosinase and elastase inhibition assays. The selected plants contained metals beneficial for skin health, such as zinc and calcium, while having a low content of toxic heavy metals. The extracts contained the bioactive phenolics such as quercetin, kaempferol, luteolin and apigenin. L. corniculatus was the most potent tyrosinase inhibitor, while K. arvensis showed the most pronounced elastase inhibitory activity. The employed solvents actively contributed to the observed bioactivity. The results indicate that the biowaste obtained from urban parks represents an ecologically acceptable alternative to conventional cultivation for the preparation of ecologically acceptable, high-value cosmetic products.

A Development Strategy of Tailor-made Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents for the Enhanced Extraction of Hydroxynaphthoquinones from Alkanna tinctoria Roots

Natural hydroxynaphthoquinone enantiomers (HNQs) are well-described pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical agents especially present in the roots of Alkanna tinctoria (L.) Tausch, a species native to the Mediterranean region. In this work, eco-friendly natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were developed for the selective extraction of these compounds. An extensive screening was performed using more than sixty tailor-made NaDESs. The impact of the intrinsic physicochemical properties on the HNQs extraction efficiency as well as the specificity towards the different enantiomeric pairs was thoroughly investigated. As a result of a multivariate analysis and of the one factor-a-time solvent optimization, the eutectic mixture composed of levulinic acid and glucose (LeG) using a molar ratio of 5:1 (molHBA:molHBD) and 20% of water (w/w) was found as the most appropriate mixture for the highest extraction efficiency of HNQs. Further optimization of the extraction process was attained by response surface methodology, using a temperature of 45 °C, a solid-to-liquid ratio of 30 mg/mL, and an extraction time of 50 min. A maximum extraction output of 41.72 ± 1.04 mg/g was reached for HNQs, comparable to that of the commonly used organic solvents. A solid-phase extraction step was also proposed for the recovery of HNQs and for NaDESs recycling. Our results revealed NaDESs as a highly customizable class of green solvents with remarkable capabilities for the extraction of HNQs.