SET-UP DUE TO RANDOM WAVES: INFLUENCE OF THE DIRECTIONAL SPECTRUM

The correct estimation of set-up is very important to evaluate coastal hazard and to design coastal structures. In this paper, we derived a mathematical expression for wave set-up in the context of random waves. The solution to this expression assumes straight, parallel depth contours and constant average flow parameters in the longshore direction. We then investigated the effect of different types of sea state taking account of different frequency spectrum and spreading function assumed in the expression on estimates of wave set-up. We found the set-up was highly influenced by the frequency spectrum used. Finally, we applied this expression to estimate set-up values at locations in Italy and in the United States using buoy data provided by ISPRA (Istituto Superiore per la Protezione e la Ricerca Ambientale) and NDBC (National Data Buoy Centre).

Modelling Light Scattering in the Context of Freeform Optical Design

We present an initial attempt to model scattering in freeform optical design. Scattering is modelled as a convolution of the unperturbed specular distribution and a spreading function. Deconvolution is used to recover the equivalent specular distribution, for which design procedures are well established.

Study of Local Inertial Focusing Conditions for Spherical Particles in Asymmetric Serpentines

Inertial focusing conditions of fluorescent polystyrene spherical particles are studied at the pointwise level along their pathlines. This is accomplished by an algorithm that calculates a degree of spreading function of the particles’ trajectories taking streaklines images as raw data. Different confinement ratios of the particles and flow rates are studied and the results are presented in state diagrams showing the focusing degree of the particles in terms of their position within a curve of an asymmetric serpentine and the applied flow rate. In addition, together with numerical simulation results, we present empirical evidence that the preferred trajectories of inertially focused spheres are contained within Dean vortices’ centerlines. We speculate about the existence of a new force, never postulated before, to explain this fact.

Study of Local Inertial Focusing Conditions for Spherical Particles in Asymmetric Serpentines

Inertial focusing conditions of fluorescent polystyrene spherical particles are studied at the pointwise level along their pathlines. This is accomplished by an algorithm that calculates a de-gree of spreading function of the particles' trajectories taking streaklines images as raw data. Different confinement ratios of the particles and flow rates are studied and the results are pre-sented in state diagrams showing the focusing degree of the particles in terms of their position within a curve of an asymmetric serpentine and the applied flow rate. In addition, together with numerical simulation results, we present empirical evidence that the preferred trajectories of inertially focused spheres are contained within Dean vortices' centerlines. We speculate about the existence of a new force, never postulated before, to explain this fact.

Monitoring and Analysis of Wave Characteristics during Pipeline End Termination Installation

Pipeline end termination (PLET) installation is an essential part of offshore pipe-laying operation. Pipe-laying operations are sensitive to pipe-laying barge motion and marine environmental conditions. Monitoring the field environment can provide a reasonable basis for planning pipe-laying. Therefore, the measurement and analysis of sea wave motion is helpful for the control and operational safety of the pipeline and vessels. In this study, an environmental monitoring system was established to measure wave motion during PLET operation. Fourier transforms were used to process images that were acquired by ultra-high-frequency X-band marine radar to extract wave parameters. The resulting wave spectra, as measured each minute, were used to simulate real-time wave data and calculate wave characteristics and regressed wave frequency and direction spectrum throughout the PLET operation. The regressed frequency, spectral density, and direction spectra were compared with the theoretical spectra to evaluate their similarity and find the most similar spreading function in the operational area (the South China Sea). Gaussian fitting of real-time wave data was tested while using a classical method. The marginal distribution and joint density of the wave characteristics were estimated and then compared with theoretical distributions to find the most suitable model for improving marine environmental forecasting.

Numerical Simulation of Multidirectional Waves With Full-Spectrum Using DualSPHysics

The numerical model for circular wave basin were developed using DualSPHysics based on Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics to generate short-crested wave. The recreation of short-crested wave was achieved using Pierson Moskowitz spectrum and cosin2s spreading function with spreading value s. It is found that this numerical tank model could successfully reproduced not only long-crested but short-crested waves using 168 hinged-flap type wave makers.