Effects of climate change and wave direction on longshore sediment transport patterns in Southern California

2011 ◽  
Vol 109 (S1) ◽  
pp. 211-228 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter N. Adams ◽  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
Jessica L. Lovering
2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 55
Author(s):  
Jesbin George ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
R. Gowthaman ◽  
Jai Singh

The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider buoy-measured data at 15 m water depth is utilized as the input wave parameters along with the reanalysis model data, and the numerical wave model Delft-3D is used for estimating the nearshore wave parameters. The relative contribution of wind-seas and swells on LST rates are specifically examined. The clear prevalence of west-southwest waves implies the prevalence of south to north longshore sediment transport with net transport varying from 0.19–0.37 × 105 m3/yr. LST is strongly dependent on the breaker angle and a small change in the wave direction substantially alters the LST, and hence reanalysis/model data with coarse resolutions produce large errors (~38%) in the LST estimate. The annual gross LST rate based on integral wave parameters is only 58% considering the wind-seas and swells separately, since the wind-sea energy is comparable to swell energy, and the direction of these two systems differs significantly.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 84
Author(s):  
Hiroshi Hashimoto ◽  
Takaaki Uda

In order to investigate the response of beach profiles to incident waves, computations by the empirical eigenfunction analysis proposed by Winant et al. are performed. The analysis of the data obtained at Ajigaura Beach over three years from 1976 to 1979 indicates that beach profile changes due to longshore and onshore-offshore sediment transport are separable by the empirical eigenfunction method. The beach profile changes due to longshore sediment transport has a time lag of 12 weeks with respect to the change of wave direction at Ajigaura Beach. It was found theoretically that this time lag was due to the sand waves propagating in the longshore direction. Regarding as onshore-offshore sand transport, the second eigenfunction is associated with the beach changes due to onshore-offshore sand transport caused by the change of wave height.


2022 ◽  
pp. 104080
Author(s):  
Amin Reza Zarifsanayei ◽  
José A.A. Antolínez ◽  
Amir Etemad-Shahidi ◽  
Nick Cartwright ◽  
Darrell Strauss

2020 ◽  
Vol 95 (sp1) ◽  
pp. 479
Author(s):  
Sandra Fernández-Fernández ◽  
Paulo A. Silva ◽  
Caroline C. Ferreira ◽  
Pablo E. Carracedo-García

Author(s):  
B Gopikrishna ◽  
MC Deo

The shoreline adjoining Chilika Lake, situated along India’s east coast, has multiple tidal inlets which connect the lake with Bay of Bengal. The shoreline behavior near such inlets is generally studied with the help of a suitable numerical model. Such models are run on the basis of historical data of waves and other information. However, the waves in future may show different strength and pattern than the past as a result of the climate change induced by global warming. It is thus necessary that the model input should correspond to future or projected data of wind and waves. In this work, we have used the wind information from a state-of-the-art regional climate model, CORDEX RegCM-4, of future 25 years in order to run a shoreline evolution model and have derived the longshore sediment transport rate as well as the shoreline change rate around Chilika inlets. These future values are compared with corresponding ones of the past 25 years. It is found that at the given location, mean wind might go up by 20%, and this could raise the mean significant wave height strongly by 32%. The direction and frequency of occurrence of waves would also change, and this in turn will cause an increase in the net littoral drift by 41% and net accumulated drift over the entire cross-shore width by 84%. Interestingly, the present site where accretion was prevalent in the past may see erosion in future at the rate of about 1 m per year.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 98 ◽  
Author(s):  
E.P. Berek ◽  
R.G. Dean

Following a change in wave direction, the active contours in an idealized pocket beach respond by rotating such that they approach a perpendicular orientation relative to the incoming wave rays. Assuming that cross-shore sediment transport does not contribute to this contour rotation, and that the contours are in the early stages of this equilibration process, the amount of contour rotation can be interpreted as the cross-shore distribution of the longshore sediment transport. As part of the Nearshore Sediment Transport Study, detailed nearshore profile measurements were conducted at Santa Barbara, California. Twenty-two of these profile lines were located on Leadbetter Beach, which is a quasi-pocket beach. To explore the concept described above, two of the nine intersurvey periods were selected due to their strong indications of wave direction change. Analysis of these data sets yielded two estimates of cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport which were compared with those presented by Komar, Fulford and Tsuchiya. Although these three distributions differ significantly, the effect of the tidal variations is to "smear" the differences in the inferred distributions as evident in the contour displacements. It was found that none of the relationships for longshore transport distribution predicted the amount of transport inferred in water depths greater than one meter. It is possible, especially for one of the intersurvey periods that the changes in contour locations were so extreme that substantial crossshore sediment transport was induced and would be interpreted as longshore transport occurring in water depths greater than had actually occurred. The method introduced here should be useful in other field and laboratory programs to investigate the cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport.


Author(s):  
Amin Reza Zarifsanayei ◽  
Amir Etemad-Shahidi ◽  
Nick Cartwright ◽  
Darrell Strauss

Due to climate change impacts on atmospheric circulation, global and regional wave climate in many coastal regions around the world might change. Any changes in wave parameters could result in significant changes in wave energy flux, the patterns of coastal sediment transport, and coastal evolution. Although some studies have tried to address the potential impacts of climate change on longshore sediment transport (LST) patterns, they did not sufficiently consider the uncertainties arising from different sources in the projections. In this study, the uncertainty associated with the choice of model used for the estimation of LST is examined. The models were applied to a short stretch of coastline located in Northern Gold Coast, Australia, where a huge volume of sediment is transported along the coast annually. The ensemble of results shows that the future mean annual and monthly LST rate might decrease by about 11 percent, compared to the baseline period. The results also show that uncertainty associated with LST estimation is significant. Hence, it is proposed that this uncertainty, in addition to that from other sources, should be considered to quantify the contribution of each source in total uncertainty. In this way, a probabilistic-based framework can be developed to provide more meaningful output applicable to long-term coastal planningRecorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/3CGU9RcGYjE


Fluids ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 6 (11) ◽  
pp. 397
Author(s):  
Muhammad Zikra ◽  
Shaskya Salsabila ◽  
Kriyo Sambodho

The Port of 2 × 110 MW Nagan Raya Coal Fired Steam Power Plant is one of the facilities constructed by the State Electricity Company in Aceh Province, Indonesia. During its operation, which began in 2013, the port has dealt with large amounts of sedimentation within the port and ship entrances. The goal of this study is to mitigate the sedimentation problem in the Nagan Raya port by evaluating the effect of maintenance dredging. Field measurements, and hydrodynamic and sediment transport modeling analysis, were conducted during this study. Evaluation of the wind data showed that the dominant wind direction is from south to west. Based on the analysis of the wave data, the dominant wave direction is from the south to the west. Therefore, the wave-induced currents in the surf zone were from south to north. Based on the analysis of longshore sediment transport, the supply of sediments to Nagan Raya port was estimated to be around 40,000–60,000 m3 per year. Results from the sediment model showed that sedimentation of up to 1 m was captured in areas of the inlet channel of Nagan Raya port. The use of a passing system for sand is one of the sedimentation management solutions proposed in this study. The dredged sediment material around the navigation channel was dumped in a dumping area in the middle of the sea at a depth of 11 m, with a distance of 1.5 km from the shoreline. To obtain a greater maximum result, the material disposal distance should be dumped further away, at least at a depth of 20 m or a distance of 20 miles from the coastline.


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