Significant Wave Height and Bistatic Doppler Signals of Microwave Scattering From the Ocean Surface: With Emphasis on the Swell Factor

Author(s):  
Paul A. Hwang ◽  
Jeffrey D. Ouellette ◽  
Jakov V. Toporkov ◽  
Joel T. Johnson
Author(s):  
Adil Rasheed ◽  
Jakob Kristoffer Süld ◽  
Mandar Tabib

Accurate prediction of near surface wind and wave height are important for many offshore activities like fishing, boating, surfing, installation and maintenance of marine structures. The current work investigates the use of different methodologies to make accurate predictions of significant wave height and local wind. The methodology consists of coupling an atmospheric code HARMONIE and a wave model WAM. Two different kinds of coupling methodologies: unidirectional and bidirectional coupling are tested. While in Unidirectional coupling only the effects of atmosphere on ocean surface are taken into account, in bidirectional coupling the effects of ocean surface on the atmosphere are also accounted for. The predicted values of wave height and local wind at 10m above the ocean surface using both the methodologies are compared against observation data. The results show that during windy conditions, a bidirectional coupling methodology has better prediction capability.


2016 ◽  
Vol 46 (6) ◽  
pp. 1857-1870 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jim Thomson ◽  
Michael S. Schwendeman ◽  
Seth F. Zippel ◽  
Saeed Moghimi ◽  
Johannes Gemmrich ◽  
...  

AbstractObservations of winds, waves, and turbulence at the ocean surface are compared with several analytic formulations and a numerical model for the input of turbulent kinetic energy by wave breaking and the subsequent dissipation. The observations are generally consistent with all of the formulations, although some differences are notable at winds greater than 15 m s−1. The depth dependence of the turbulent dissipation rate beneath the waves is fit to a decay scale, which is sensitive to the choice of vertical reference frame. In the surface-following reference frame, the strongest turbulence is isolated within a shallow region of depths much less than one significant wave height. In a fixed reference frame, the strong turbulence penetrates to depths that are at least half of the significant wave height. This occurs because the turbulence of individual breakers persists longer than the dominant period of the waves and thus the strong surface turbulence is carried from crest to trough with the wave orbital motion.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Catalina Aguirre ◽  
Diego Becerra ◽  
Marcelo Godoy ◽  
Diego Silva

<p>Ocean surface (wind-driven) waves continuously shape the coastal environment and play a relevant role in ocean-atmosphere interaction processes. They are also important in operational aspects of ports and have significant energy potential. This research is focused on the interannual variability of the wind waves in the Southeast Pacific, particularly its relationship with the Southern Annular Mode (SAM) and El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO). We used a 38-year wave simulation (1979-2016) performed using the Wavewatch III model forced with surface winds and ice concentration from the ERA-Interim reanalysis. Additionally, a cyclone tracking software was used to analyze the trajectories of the extratropical storms which generate the wind waves that reach the coast of western South America. Time series statistics, such as correlation and composites analysis, have been applied to both wave parameters (such as significant wave height and mean period) and directional spectra. Results show a significant and positive correlation between the SAM and the significant wave height and the mean period of the wind waves. However, local storms in central Chile, which are the most damaging extreme wave events for coastal infrastructure, are less frequent during the positive phase of the SAM. Furthermore, a trend analysis shows an increase of the significant wave height during the last decades, which is consistent with the trend toward the positive phase experienced by the SAM. On the other hand, the wave energy of remote origin that travels from the North Pacific toward the Southeast Pacific, which is maximum during the austral summer, shows a significant relationship with the extreme El Niño events. These energetic swells events that reach the coast of western South America during the austral summer are more intense and frequent during the warm phase of ENSO.</p>


Author(s):  
Jeffrey D. Ouellette ◽  
William T. Bounds ◽  
David J. Dowgiallo ◽  
Jakov V. Toporkov ◽  
Paul A. Hwang

2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (2) ◽  
pp. 195
Author(s):  
He Wang ◽  
Jingsong Yang ◽  
Jianhua Zhu ◽  
Lin Ren ◽  
Yahao Liu ◽  
...  

Sea state estimation from wide-swath and frequent-revisit scatterometers, which are providing ocean winds in the routine, is an attractive challenge. In this study, state-of-the-art deep learning technology is successfully adopted to develop an algorithm for deriving significant wave height from Advanced Scatterometer (ASCAT) aboard MetOp-A. By collocating three years (2016–2018) of ASCAT measurements and WaveWatch III sea state hindcasts at a global scale, huge amount data points (>8 million) were employed to train the multi-hidden-layer deep learning model, which has been established to map the inputs of thirteen sea state related ASCAT observables into the wave heights. The ASCAT significant wave height estimates were validated against hindcast dataset independent on training, showing good consistency in terms of root mean square error of 0.5 m under moderate sea condition (1.0–5.0 m). Additionally, reasonable agreement is also found between ASCAT derived wave heights and buoy observations from National Data Buoy Center for the proposed algorithm. Results are further discussed with respect to sea state maturity, radar incidence angle along with the limitations of the model. Our work demonstrates the capability of scatterometers for monitoring sea state, thus would advance the use of scatterometers, which were originally designed for winds, in studies of ocean waves.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 309
Author(s):  
James Allen ◽  
Gregorio Iglesias ◽  
Deborah Greaves ◽  
Jon Miles

The WaveCat is a moored Wave Energy Converter design which uses wave overtopping discharge into a variable v-shaped hull, to generate electricity through low head turbines. Physical model tests of WaveCat WEC were carried out to determine the device reflection, transmission, absorption and capture coefficients based on selected wave conditions. The model scale was 1:30, with hulls of 3 m in length, 0.4 m in height and a freeboard of 0.2 m. Wave gauges monitored the surface elevation at discrete points around the experimental area, and level sensors and flowmeters recorded the amount of water captured and released by the model. Random waves of significant wave height between 0.03 m and 0.12 m and peak wave periods of 0.91 s to 2.37 s at model scale were tested. The wedge angle of the device was set to 60°. A reflection analysis was carried out using a revised three probe method and spectral analysis of the surface elevation to determine the incident, reflected and transmitted energy. The results show that the reflection coefficient is highest (0.79) at low significant wave height and low peak wave period, the transmission coefficient is highest (0.98) at low significant wave height and high peak wave period, and absorption coefficient is highest (0.78) when significant wave height is high and peak wave period is low. The model also shows the highest Capture Width Ratio (0.015) at wavelengths on the order of model length. The results have particular implications for wave energy conversion prediction potential using this design of device.


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