LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

scholarly journals A Preliminary Laboratory Study of Motion of Floating Debris Generated by Solitary Waves Running up a Beach

2014 ◽  
Vol 08 (03) ◽  
pp. 1440006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yao Yao ◽  
Zhenhua Huang ◽  
Edmond Y. M. Lo ◽  
Hung-Tao Shen
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Laboratory Study ◽  
Current Understanding ◽  
Final Position ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
The Difference

Destructive tsunamis can destroy coastal structures and move huge amounts of tsunami debris. Our current understanding of motion of tsunami debris in tsunami flows is limited. In this paper, we present a preliminary laboratory study of motion of model debris under the action of solitary waves running up a beach. The difference between the waterline of maximum inundation and the final position of debris was examined under various conditions. Effects of solitary wave height, water depth, and the distance of debris source to the shoreline on the maximum inundation, the debris limit, and the final position of debris were examined. In general, the final positions of the debris are different from the waterline at maximum inundation and there is a low possibility that a large amount of debris can be carried by retreating water offshore into the sea.

scholarly journals EXPERIMENTAL DATA ON THE OVERTOPPING OF SEAWALLS BY WAVES

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (7) ◽  
pp. 36
Author(s):  
A. Paape
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Know How ◽  
The Past ◽  
Maximum Value ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Materials Used ◽  
The Stability ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Made In

In the past it has been found that serious damage and breaching of seawalls is most frequently caused by overtopping. Hence for the design of seawalls data must be available about the overtopping by waves of the different profiles that might be possible. Naturally the conditions under which damage is caused to the seawall also depend on the type of construction and the materials used, for example: the stability of grass covered dikes can be endangered seriously by water flowing over the inner slope. In many designs the necessary height of a seawall has been defined such that not more than 2% of the waves overtop the crest, under chosen design conditions. This criterion has been determined on the assumption that the overtopping must remain very small. Some overtopping has to be accepted because no maximum value for wave height and wave run-up can be given, unless of course the wave height is limited by fore-shore conditions. Unfortunately this criterion gives no information about the volume and concentration of water overtopping the crest in each instance. Moreover it is of interest to know how this overtopping varies with other conditions, such as changes in the significant wave height. Information about the overtopping by waves was obtained from model investigations on simple plane slopes w^th inclinations varying from 1 : 8 to 1 : 2. The experiments were made in a windflume where wind generated waves as well as regular waves were employed. Using wind generated waves, conditions from nature regarding the distribution of wave heights could be reproduced. It appeared that the overtopping depends on the irregularity of the waves and that the same effects cannot be reproduced using regular paddle generated waves. In this paper a description of the model and the results of these tests are given. Investigations are m progress on composite slopes, including the reproduction of conditions for a seawall which suffered much overtopping but remained practically undamaged during the flood of 1953.

scholarly journals THE EFFECTS OF BOTTOM CONFIGURATION ON THE DEFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF SOLITARY WAVES

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Frederick E. Camfield ◽  
Robert L. Street
Keyword(s):  
Continental Shelf ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Bottom Slope ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves

Experiments were conducted to determine the various effects on the shoaling, breaking and run-up of solitary waves resulting from the bottom configuration. An initial set of experiments investigated the effect of the initial bottom slope on the breaking and run-up of a wave on a second, higher slope. A second set of experiments considered the effect of a continental shelf configuration on the transmissibility of waves in the shoreward direction, and the decomposition of the waves due to the shallower water depth on the continental shelf. It was found that, in order to make predictions at or near the shoreline for waves generated in deep water, it is necessary to consider the total configuration of the bottom leading to the shoreline.

scholarly journals Assessment of Numerical Methods for Plunging Breaking Wave Predictions

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Turbulence Models ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Rans Turbulence Models ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Better Than

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.

scholarly journals MACH-REFLECTION AS A DIFFRACTION PROBLEM

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 45 ◽  
Author(s):  
Udo Berger ◽  
Soren Kohlhase
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Gas Dynamics ◽  
Mach Reflection ◽  
Diffraction Problem ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Waves

As under oblique wave approach water waves are reflected by a vertical wall, a wave branching effect (stem) develops normal to the reflecting wall. The waves progressing along the wall will steep up. The wave heights increase up to more than twice the incident wave height. The £jtudy has pointed out that this effect, which is usually called MACH-REFLECTION, is not to be taken as an analogy to gas dynamics, but should be interpreted as a diffraction problem.

scholarly journals WAVE RECORDING ON THE IJSSELMEER

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (7) ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
P. W. Roest
Keyword(s):  
Average Period ◽  
Recording Time ◽  
Ice Drift ◽  
Recording Station ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Wave Research ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The dimensions of the dikes in the Ijsselmeer are mainly determined by wave-attack. The dimensions of the waves as a result of the design gale are calculated with the diagram of the Hydraulics Laboratory at Delft (ref« 1). This diagram is based on data of Sverdrup for deep water and principally on laboratory studies for shallow water. For a long time there has been a need of wave recordings on the lake in order to verify the calculated wave heights. A problem is the impossibility of maintaining a permanent recording station on the lake due to ice-drift in wintertime. Otherwise the Ijsselmeer lends itself admirably to wave-research, because there are vast regions with only small variations in waterdepth. Another advantage is that frequently more or less stationary conditions will occur under the influence of winds of constant force and direction. When Dr. Dorrestein of the Royal Dutch Meteorological Institute introduced his new floating waverecorder, it was possible to take observations in every place of the lake. Soon it appeared that this recorder has many advantages. The equipment consists of an accelerometer mounted on a little raft of one meter each way, that follows the movement of the water surface. The signal of the accelerometer is transmitted by an electric cable to the ship, where it is double integrated and then recorded (ref. 3). During the last winter several observations have been carried out with an instrument of this type* As a result of initial troubles with the electronic equipment the number of observations during gale-conditions has been limited. The usual duration of each recording is about 15 minutes. The average period of the waves lies between three and a half and five seconds, so each diagram consists of 180 to 250 waves. Wave height is measured as the difference in height between a trough and the next crest. The average period is determined by dividing the total recording time by half the number of zerocrossings.

Run-up of non-breaking double solitary waves with equal wave heights on a plane beach

2014 ◽  
Vol 26 (6) ◽  
pp. 939-950 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jie Dong ◽  
Ben-long Wang ◽  
Hua Liu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals Numerical approximation to Benjamin type equations. Generation and stability of solitary waves

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
VA Dougalis ◽  
A Duran ◽  
Dimitrios Mitsotakis
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Numerical Approximation ◽  
Solitary Wave Solutions ◽  
Time Stepping ◽  
Runge Kutta Method ◽  
Stability Of Solitary Waves ◽  
The Stability ◽  
Numerical Generation ◽  
The Waves

© 2018 Elsevier B.V. This paper is concerned with the study, by computational means, of the generation and stability of solitary-wave solutions of generalized versions of the Benjamin equation. The numerical generation of the solitary-wave profiles is accurately performed with a modified Petviashvili method which includes extrapolation to accelerate the convergence. In order to study the dynamics of the solitary waves the equations are discretized in space with a Fourier pseudospectral collocation method and a fourth-order, diagonally implicit Runge–Kutta method of composition type as time-stepping integrator. The stability of the waves is numerically studied by performing experiments with small and large perturbations of the solitary pulses as well as interactions of solitary waves.

scholarly journals CFD Analysis of Water Solitary Wave Reflection

2011 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 10 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. Smida ◽  
H. Lamloumi ◽  
K. Maalel ◽  
Z. Hafsia
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Collision Process ◽  
Linear Waves ◽  
Run Up

 A new numerical wave generation method is used to investigate the head-on collision of two solitary waves. The reflection at vertical wall of a solitary wave is also presented. The originality of this model, based on the Navier-Stokes equations, is the specification of an internal inlet velocity, defined as a source line within the computational domain for the generation of these non linear waves. This model was successfully implemented in the PHOENICS (Parabolic Hyperbolic Or Elliptic Numerical Integration Code Series) code. The collision of two counter-propagating solitary waves is similar to the interaction of a soliton with a vertical wall. This wave generation method allows the saving of considerable time for this collision process since the counter-propagating wave is generated directly without reflection at vertical wall. For the collision of two solitary waves, numerical results show that the run-up phenomenon can be well explained, the solution of the maximum wave run-up is almost equal to experimental measurement. The simulated wave profiles during the collision are in good agreement with experimental results. For the reflection at vertical wall, the spatial profiles of the wave at fixed instants show that this problem is equivalent to the collision process. 

scholarly journals BREAKING AND WASH UP OF SOLITARY WAVES ON A COMPOSITE BEACH

2020 ◽  
pp. 29
Author(s):  
Hajo von Hafen ◽  
Jacob Stolle ◽  
Nils Goseberg ◽  
Ioan Nistor
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Horizontal Plane ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Propagation Path ◽  
Rock Falls ◽  
Damage Potential ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Beach Slope ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Run Up

Hazardous events, such as landslides, rock slides, rock falls or avalanches often generate extreme, impulsive waves when entering water bodies (Fuchs & Hager, 2015). These waves are approximated by solitary waves and researchers investigate their damage potential when inundating built environment. Deepening the understanding of solitary waves running up a uniform beach slope and propagating over a subsequent horizontal plane can help to reduce and mitigate damage and the number of casualties caused by such a hazardous event. So far, few authors addressed this specific setting near-shore (Fuchs & Hager, 2015; Zelt & Raichlen, 1991). In this study, large scale solitary waves propagate about 200 m in in the Large-Wave Flume (GWK, 307 m 5 m 7 m) at the Coastal Research Center in Hannover, Germany then they run up a beach slope and subsequently break, generating a bore which advances onto a subsequent, initially dry, horizontal surface. Unlike previous studies, the generated solitary waves broke close to the edge between the beach slope and the horizontal plane section. The overall aim of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the broken waves' dynamics. In addition, their surge profile and front celerity are compared to those of the non-breaking solitary waves. Subsequently, the differences between the velocity regimes along the bore propagation path are presented and linked to the fundamental physical processes behind.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document