scholarly journals BREAKING AND WASH UP OF SOLITARY WAVES ON A COMPOSITE BEACH

2020 ◽  
pp. 29
Author(s):  
Hajo von Hafen ◽  
Jacob Stolle ◽  
Nils Goseberg ◽  
Ioan Nistor
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Horizontal Plane ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Propagation Path ◽  
Rock Falls ◽  
Damage Potential ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Beach Slope ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Run Up

Hazardous events, such as landslides, rock slides, rock falls or avalanches often generate extreme, impulsive waves when entering water bodies (Fuchs & Hager, 2015). These waves are approximated by solitary waves and researchers investigate their damage potential when inundating built environment. Deepening the understanding of solitary waves running up a uniform beach slope and propagating over a subsequent horizontal plane can help to reduce and mitigate damage and the number of casualties caused by such a hazardous event. So far, few authors addressed this specific setting near-shore (Fuchs & Hager, 2015; Zelt & Raichlen, 1991). In this study, large scale solitary waves propagate about 200 m in in the Large-Wave Flume (GWK, 307 m 5 m 7 m) at the Coastal Research Center in Hannover, Germany then they run up a beach slope and subsequently break, generating a bore which advances onto a subsequent, initially dry, horizontal surface. Unlike previous studies, the generated solitary waves broke close to the edge between the beach slope and the horizontal plane section. The overall aim of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the broken waves' dynamics. In addition, their surge profile and front celerity are compared to those of the non-breaking solitary waves. Subsequently, the differences between the velocity regimes along the bore propagation path are presented and linked to the fundamental physical processes behind.

scholarly journals Large-Scale Laboratory Experiments on Mussel Dropper Lines in Ocean Surface Waves

2020 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 29
Author(s):  
Rebekka Gieschen ◽  
Christian Schwartpaul ◽  
Jannis Landmann ◽  
Lukas Fröhling ◽  
Arndt Hildebrandt ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Large Scale ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Blue Mussel ◽  
Farming Systems ◽  
Quality Parameter ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Marine Aquaculture ◽  
Ocean Surface Waves ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Waves And Currents

The rapid growth of marine aquaculture around the world accentuates issues of sustainability and environmental impacts of large-scale farming systems. One potential mitigation strategy is to relocate to more energetic offshore locations. However, research regarding the forces which waves and currents impose on aquaculture structures in such conditions is still scarce. The present study aimed at extending the knowledge related to live blue mussels (Mytilus edulis), cultivated on dropper lines, by unique, large-scale laboratory experiments in the Large Wave Flume of the Coastal Research Center in Hannover, Germany. Nine-months-old live dropper lines and a surrogate of 2.0 m length each are exposed to regular waves with wave heights between 0.2 and 1.0 m and periods between 1.5 and 8.0 s. Force time histories are recorded to investigate the inertia and drag characteristics of live mussel and surrogate dropper lines. The surrogate dropper line was developed from 3D scans of blue mussel dropper lines, using the surface descriptor Abbott–Firestone Curve as quality parameter. Pull-off tests of individual mussels are conducted that reveal maximum attachment strength ranges of 0.48 to 10.55 N for mussels that had medium 3.04 cm length, 1.60 cm height and 1.25 cm width. Mean drag coefficients of CD = 3.9 were found for live blue mussel lines and CD = 3.4 for the surrogate model, for conditions of Keulegan–Carpenter number (KC) 10 to 380, using regular wave tests.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

scholarly journals WAVE RUN-UP OBSERVATIONS ON REVETMENTS WITH DIFFERENT POROSITIES

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 73 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stefan Schimmels ◽  
Michalis Vousdoukas ◽  
Dagmara Wziatek ◽  
Katharina Becker ◽  
Fabian Gier ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Data Analysis ◽  
Concrete Block ◽  
Video Data ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
New Type ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Highly Porous ◽  
Good Agreement

Wave run-up plays an important role in the design of coastal protection structures. However, none of the existing formulae for wave run-up predictions explicitly considers the effect of revetment porosity. Recently, two revetments have been tested in the Large Wave Flume (GWK) of Forschungszentrum Küste (FZK), a new type of highly porous polyurethane bonded (PBA revetment) revetment and a smooth interlocked pattern placed concrete block revetment (IPPB revetment), which is considered as “weakly permeable” for the present study. Wave run-up is evaluated by video data analysis based on timestack image processing. The results derived from the timestacks are compared to run-up data measured with conventional wire gauges and the good agreement demonstrates the accuracy and reliability of the video data analysis. The effect of the porosity of the revetment is incorporated into the EuroTop wave run-up formula, showing that for the present case it may reduce the relative run-up heights Ru,2%/Hm0 by about 25 % to 50 % as compared to a smooth impermeable slope.

scholarly journals LOADING OF VERTICAL WALLS BY OVERTOPPING BORES USING PRESSURE AND FORCE SENSORS - A LARGE SCALE MODEL STUDY

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 44 ◽  
Author(s):  
Karunya Ramachandran ◽  
Rebeca Roldan Genzalez ◽  
Hocine Oumeraci ◽  
Stefan Schimmels ◽  
Matthias Kudella ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Large Scale ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Force Sensors ◽  
Research Project ◽  
Joint Research ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Joint Research Project

This study is based on the data obtained from tests carried out in the Large Wave Flume (Grosser Wellenkanal (GWK)) in Hannover in the frame of a joint research project of Ghent University (Belgium) and Forschungszentrum Küste (FZK, Germany). The goal of the research project is to determine the wave induced loads on vertical storm walls located at the end of overtopped dike, which are designed to protect coastal cities from overtopping and floods. The loads resulting from waves overtopping the dike and impacting the vertical wall as a bore are measured by means of both force and pressure sensors. This paper describes the results of pressure and force records at the vertical wall, including a comparative analysis of the overall forces obtained by pressure integration and force sensors for two different wall setups: Fully blocked wall and partially blocked wall.

scholarly journals A UNIFIED RUNUP FORMULA FOR BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES ON A UNIFORM BEACH

2018 ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Yun-Ta Wu ◽  
Philip Li-Fan Liu ◽  
Philip Li-Fan Liu ◽  
Kao-Shu Hwang ◽  
Kao-Shu Hwang ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Research Area ◽  
Easy Access ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Analytical Approaches

For coastal management, it is of great importance to understand long-wave induced runup processes and predict maximum runup heights. Long-wave in nature could take different forms, such as swells, storm surges and tsunamis. One of the fundamental waveforms is solitary wave, which has a permanent form in a constant depth. Thus, the issue of solitary wave propagation, shoaling, breaking and runup has been an active research area in coastal engineering community, using experimental, numerical and analytical approaches. Among existing runup experiments, only limited numbers of experiments were conducted in large-scale wave flume facilities because of the lack of easy access. To enhance the range of surf parameters for breaking solitary waves, new laboratory experiments were carried out in a large-scale wave flume with a 1/100 slope. Several wave conditions in the experiments were on the borderline of plunging and spilling breakers. The main objective of this paper is twofold. The first aim is to present a new dataset for solitary wave runup. The second objective aims to develop a unified empirical formula, based on the available runup data in the literature and the present new data, for the runup of breaking solitary waves on a uniform slope.

Observations of wave attenuation, scour, and subsurface pore pressures acrossbthree marsh restoration sill structures on a sandy bed

Shore & Beach ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 14-30
Author(s):  
Jordan Converse ◽  
Meagan Wengrove ◽  
Pedro Lomonaco
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Oyster Shell ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Structure Stability ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Sea Levels ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Living Shoreline

With rising sea levels and more frequent exposure to extreme storms, coastlines worldwide are vulnerable to increased erosion and loss of natural marsh lands. In an effort to lessen these impacts, there is a growing practice of adapting hard or “gray” coastline protection techniques to more nature-based features that promote habitat and ecosystem health. Living shoreline marsh restorations utilize natural and naturebased materials to protect marsh shores from erosion while also allowing intertidal flushing to promote the health and diversity of the marsh. Our study investigates three types of living shoreline sill designs exposed to average and storm-energy wave conditions at varying water levels. The sills were designed to mimic constructed sills in practice (rock, oyster shell, tree root wads), but more generally vary in structure porosity and material dissipation potential. Large-scale laboratory experiments were conducted in the large wave flume at the O.H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory. Wave transmission and reflection are used to demonstrate wave attenuation capability of each sill structure. Scour of the sill, bedload sediment transport rates on the seaward and shoreward sides of the sill, and sediment pore-water vertical hydraulic gradients were used to demonstrate the potential for sediment transport and liquefaction. Results will contribute to understanding the effect of sill material porosity and mass on structure stability, and the effectiveness of using green living shoreline sill structures in the continued effort to establish design criteria for living shoreline implementation.

Runup of solitary waves on a circular Island

1995 ◽  
Vol 302 ◽  
pp. 259-285 ◽  
Author(s):  
Philip L. -F. Liu ◽  
Yong-Sik Cho ◽  
Michael J. Briggs ◽  
Utku Kanoglu ◽  
Costas Emmanuel Synolakis
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Wave Trapping ◽  
Shallow Water Wave Equations ◽  
Circular Island ◽  
Run Up

This is a study of the interactions of solitary waves climbing up a circular island. A series of large-scale laboratory experiments with waves of different incident height-to-depth ratios and different crest lengths is described. Detailed two-dimensional run-up height measurements and time histories of surface elevations around the island are presented. A numerical model based on the two-dimensional shallow-water wave equations including runup calculations was developed. Numerical model predictions agreed very well with the laboratory data and the model was used to study wave trapping and the effect of slope. Under certain conditions, enhanced runup and wave trapping on the lee side of the island were observed, suggesting a possible explanation for the devastation reported by field surveys in Babi Island off Flores, Indonesia, and in Okushiri Island, Japan.

Small and Large Scale Experimental Investigations of Wave Loads on a Slender Pile Within Closely Spaced Neighbouring Piles

2014 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lisham Bonakdar ◽  
Hocine Oumeraci
Keyword(s):  
Laboratory Tests ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Model Tests ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Research Centre ◽  
Experimental Investigations ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Wave Loads ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume

Wave loads on a slender pile within a group of piles are studied by means of (i) large-scale laboratory tests carried out in the Large Wave Flume (GWK) of the Coastal Research Centre (FZK) in Hannover, and (ii) small scale experiments performed in 2 m-wide wave flume of Leichtweiss-Institute for Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources (LWI), in Braunschweig, Germany. The small scale model tests (LWI) were scaled down (1:6.5) by Froude law from the large scale model tests (GWK). Scale and model effects are examined by comparing the results of small and large scale laboratory tests.

scholarly journals High-resolution, large-scale laboratory measurements of a sandy beach and dynamic cobble berm revetment

2021 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Chris E. Blenkinsopp ◽  
Paul M. Bayle ◽  
Daniel C. Conley ◽  
Gerd Masselink ◽  
Emily Gulson ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Large Scale ◽  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Laboratory Measurements ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Water Level Rise ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Spatio Temporal

AbstractHigh quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change at, or near prototype-scale are essential to support new understanding of coastal processes and enable the development and validation of predictive models. The DynaRev experiment was completed at the GWK large wave flume over 8 weeks during 2017 to investigate the response of a sandy beach to water level rise and varying wave conditions with and without a dynamic cobble berm revetment, as well as the resilience of the revetment itself. A large array of instrumentation was used throughout the experiment to capture: (1) wave transformation from intermediate water depths to the runup limit at high spatio-temporal resolution, (2) beach profile change including wave-by-wave changes in the swash zone, (3) detailed hydro and morphodynamic measurements around a developing and a translating sandbar.

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