scholarly journals A Preliminary Laboratory Study of Motion of Floating Debris Generated by Solitary Waves Running up a Beach

2014 ◽  
Vol 08 (03) ◽  
pp. 1440006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yao Yao ◽  
Zhenhua Huang ◽  
Edmond Y. M. Lo ◽  
Hung-Tao Shen
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Laboratory Study ◽  
Current Understanding ◽  
Final Position ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
The Difference

Destructive tsunamis can destroy coastal structures and move huge amounts of tsunami debris. Our current understanding of motion of tsunami debris in tsunami flows is limited. In this paper, we present a preliminary laboratory study of motion of model debris under the action of solitary waves running up a beach. The difference between the waterline of maximum inundation and the final position of debris was examined under various conditions. Effects of solitary wave height, water depth, and the distance of debris source to the shoreline on the maximum inundation, the debris limit, and the final position of debris were examined. In general, the final positions of the debris are different from the waterline at maximum inundation and there is a low possibility that a large amount of debris can be carried by retreating water offshore into the sea.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

Observations of solitary wave dynamics of film flows

2001 ◽  
Vol 435 ◽  
pp. 191-215 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. VLACHOGIANNIS ◽  
V. BONTOZOGLOU
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Inelastic Interaction ◽  
Imaging Method ◽  
Glycerol Solution ◽  
Generation Process ◽  
Transient Phenomena ◽  
Water Glycerol ◽  
Front Running ◽  
The Difference

Experimental results are reported on non-stationary evolution and interactions of waves forming on water and water–glycerol solution flowing along an inclined plane. A nonlinear wave generation process leads to a large number of solitary humps with a wide variety of sizes. A uorescence imaging method is applied to capture the evolution of film height in space and time with accuracy of a few microns. Coalescence – the inelastic interaction of solitary waves resulting in a single hump – is found to proceed at a timescale correlated to the difference in height between the interacting waves. The correlation indicates that waves of similar height do not merge. Transient phenomena accompanying coalescence are reported. The front-running ripples recede during coalescence, only to reappear when the new hump recovers its teardrop shape. The tail of the resulting solitary wave develops an elevated substrate relative to the front, which decays exponentially in time; both observations about the tail confirm theoretical predictions. In experiments with water, the elevated back substrate is unstable, yielding to a tail oscillation with wavelength similar to that of the front-running ripples. This instability plays a key role in two complex interaction phenomena observed: the nucleation of a new crest between two interacting solitary humps and the splitting of a large hump (that has grown through multiple coalescence events) into solitary waves of similar size.

scholarly journals THE SOLITARY WAVE: ITS CELERITY, PROFILE, INTERNAL VELOCITIES AND AMPLITUDE ATTENUATION IN A HORIZONTAL SMOOTH CHANNEL

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 2 ◽  
Author(s):  
James W. Daily ◽  
Samuel C. Stephan, Jr.
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Horizontal Displacement ◽  
Smooth Channel ◽  
Amplitude Attenuation ◽  
Oscillatory Waves

The solitary wave consists of a single elevation of water above the originally undisturbed level as shown in Figure 1. It is translatory, a passing wave causing a definite net horizontal displacement of the liquid. While the characteristics of oscillatory waves depend on wave length as well as wave height and water depth, the solitary wave is apparently described completely by the wave height and water depth so long as attenuation due to friction is unimportant.

scholarly journals THE EXACT SOLUTION OF THE HIGHEST WAVE DERIVED FROM A UNIVERSAL WAVE MODEL

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 70
Author(s):  
Yang Yih Chen ◽  
Frederick L.W. Tang
Keyword(s):  
Exact Solution ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Series Solution ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Finite Depth

The solitary wave is first established in this paper by extending the series solution of periodic gravity wave as the wavelength approaches to infinite. Then, the highest gravity wave of permanent type in finite depth of water is immediately analyzed. The maximum ratio of wave height to water depth is obtained as 0.85465')..., and the angle at the crest for the considered highest wave is estimated to be 90°.

scholarly journals Analytical Solutions and Collision Stability Analysis of Solitary Waves in a Pre-compressed One-dimensional Granular Crystal

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhi-Guo Liu ◽  
Jinliang Zhang ◽  
Yue-Sheng Wang ◽  
Guoliang Huang
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Solitary Wave Solution ◽  
Original System ◽  
Bilinear Method ◽  
One Dimensional ◽  
Balance Principle ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Granular Crystal ◽  
The Stability

Abstract In this paper, the governing equation in a pre-compressed one-dimensional granular crystal, which was previously discussed by Nesterenko [J. Appl. Mech. Phys. 24, 733 (1983)], is solved analytically. Multiple solitary wave solutions are obtained by using the homogeneous balance principle and Hirota’s bilinear method. We analyze the difference between the original system and the KdV system and examine the collision of solitary waves in some special parameters. The dynamic behavior and stability of the double solitary waves are also studied. We find that the opposite collision between single solitary waves may be stable and thus generate a stable double solitary wave. It is concluded that the collision is a special stable double solitary wave solution. We further propose a possible way to determine the stability of multiple solitary waves qualitatively.

scholarly journals THE SHOALING, BREAKING AND RUNUP OP THE SOLITARY WAVE ON IMPERMEABLE ROUGH SLOPES

1966 ◽  
Vol 1 (10) ◽  
pp. 20 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tsutomu Kishi ◽  
Hiroshi Saeki
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Laboratory Measurements ◽  
M Wave ◽  
Wave Characteristics

Variations m wave characteristics for solitary waves in shoaling water are discussed. The transition of wave character from the solitary wave to the bore is basic to the understanding of the problem. Experimental curves representing the transformation of wave height prior to breaking as well as the curves giving the breaker conditions are presented. Theories for the transformation of wave height after breaking and the prediction of the plunge point are presented and compared favorably with the laboratory measurements. Runup heights and wave quantities at the shoreline are measured to compare with the theory of a bore on a dry bed.

Asymptotic theory for the almost-highest solitary wave

1996 ◽  
Vol 317 ◽  
pp. 1-19 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. S. Longuet-Higgins ◽  
M. J. H. Fox
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Asymptotic Theory ◽  
Finite Depth ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Asymptotic Formulae ◽  
Energy And Momentum

The behaviour of the energy in a steep solitary wave as a function of the wave height has a direct bearing on the breaking of solitary waves on a gently shoaling beach. Here it is shown that the speed, energy and momentum of a steep solitary wave in water of finite depth all behave in an oscillatory manner as functions of the wave height and as the limiting height is approached. Asymptotic formulae for these and other wave parameters are derived by means of a theory for the ‘almost-highest wave’ similar to that formulated previously for periodic waves in deep water (Longuet-Higgins & Fox 1977, 1978). It is demonstrated that the theory fits very precisely some recent calculations of solitary waves by Tanaka (1995).

scholarly journals Determination of Force Coefficients for a Submerged Rigid Breakwater under the Action of Solitary Waves

Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (3) ◽  
pp. 315
Author(s):  
Francesco Aristodemo ◽  
Giuseppe Tripepi ◽  
Luana Gurnari ◽  
Pasquale Filianoti
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Wave Loads ◽  
Force Coefficients ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Physical Tests ◽  
The Difference ◽  
The University ◽  
Semi Empirical

We present an analysis related to the evaluation of Morison and transverse force coefficients in the case of a submerged square barrier subject to the action of solitary waves. To this purpose, two-dimensional experimental research was undertaken in the wave flume of the University of Calabria, in which a rigid square barrier was provided by a discrete battery of pressure sensors to determine the horizontal and vertical hydrodynamic forces. A total set of 18 laboratory tests was carried out by varying the motion law of a piston-type paddle. Owing to the low Keulegan–Carpenter numbers of the tests, the force regime of the physical tests was defined by the dominance of the inertia loads in the horizontal direction and of the lift loads in the vertical one. Through the use of the time series of wave forces and the undisturbed kinematics, drag, horizontal inertia, lift, and vertical inertia coefficients in the Morison and transverse semi-empirical schemes were calculated using time-domain approaches, adopting the WLS1 method for the minimization of the difference between the maximum forces and the linked phase shifts by comparing laboratory and calculated wave loads. Practical equations to calculate these coefficients as a function of the wave non-linearity were introduced. The obtained results highlighted the prevalence of the horizontal forces in comparison with the vertical ones which, however, prove to be fundamental for stability purposes of the barrier. An overall good agreement between the experimental forces and those calculated by the calibrated semi-empirical schemes was found, particularly for the positive horizontal and vertical loads. The analysis of the hydrodynamic coefficients showed a decreasing trend for the drag, horizontal inertia, and lift coefficients as a function of the wave non-linearity, while the vertical inertia coefficient underlined an initial increasing trend and a successive slight decreasing trend.

Comment on ‘Propagation of solitary waves and shock wavelength in the pair plasma (J. Plasma Phys. 78, 525–529, 2012)’

2014 ◽  
Vol 80 (3) ◽  
pp. 513-516
Author(s):  
Frank Verheest
Keyword(s):  
Shock Wave ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Plasma Phys ◽  
Theoretical Underpinning ◽  
Pair Plasma ◽  
Electrons And Positrons ◽  
Small Dissipation ◽  
Pseudopotential Approach ◽  
Wave Properties

In a recent paper ‘Propagation of solitary waves and shock wavelength in the pair plasma (J. Plasma Phys. 78, 525–529, 2012)’, Malekolkalami and Mohammadi investigate nonlinear electrostatic solitary waves in a plasma comprising adiabatic electrons and positrons, and a stationary ion background. The paper contains two parts: First, the solitary wave properties are discussed through a pseudopotential approach, and then the influence of a small dissipation is intuitively sketched without theoretical underpinning. Small dissipation is claimed to lead to a shock wave whose wavelength is determined by linear oscillator analysis. Unfortunately, there are errors and inconsistencies in both the parts, and their combination is incoherent.

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